Update. Was able to solder this, bridging the gap of the wire breakage. Reads proper 8 ohms, bu who knows if it'll last. Quite the mess, as I originally thought I'd tin the whole length of wire, then lay another wire across to bridge the gap and make more robust overall. That didn't go so well. The epoxy that covers the wire just made a flux-like gooey mess. The solder would stick to the wire, but made no connection to close the circuit (maybe this portion of wire is enameled like the voice coil?) I originally thought a hot bead of solder would melt all that junk away, but no luck. Maybe should have tried an epoxy removal method (Goo Gone), and perhaps aspirin to remove the wire enamel. It's such a thin, delicate wire, though, success never guaranteed. Anyway, thought it worth bringing up again as I've read quite a few stories on here about receiving "working" used speakers only to find the tweeter is junked. It occurred to me that perhaps precisely this same breakage is occurring during shipping / transportation, the culprit being the weight of the wire itself going from the crossover to the tweeter. A big "perhaps", but perhaps securing the wire closer to the tweeter could mitigate.
@geof Mentioned how delicate these diaphragms are. Found that out for myself today on some K-75Ks from a Forte II. Pictures show some broken leads at the tweeter's terminals (very zoomed-in photo), I guess the break occurred when I pulled the wires off the terminals?* (Despite being super careful, the Forte's were unmodded and the spade connector was really stuck on there.) Morale of the story, If you're new to this, don't mess original tweeters just for the sake of dynamatting them. IMO, the tweeter horn is pretty small and plastic is fairly thick, not sure dynamatting does anything anyway. If you're in the middle of your first cross-over re-capping, measure all the speakers Ohm values BEFORE reassembling! In my case, I thought for a second I'd botched the re-capping and blew up the tweeter. Probably stay away from old used tweeters with thin wires going to the terminal leads. Looking at a replacement diaphragm (from Simply Speakers), they have a more robust design, using wider traces. If anyone knows if Crites' titanium replacements also use a wider trace, please let me know. * - I later tried re-flowing solder, hoping it was just a cold joint issue. I wonder if that could have caused this snap in wire instead?