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Thunderball

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Posts posted by Thunderball

  1. The binding posts were bought from Parts Express.  “Dayton Audio BPP-G Premium Binding Post Banana Jack Pair Gold - Part Number 091-620”

     

    My friend and his friend did the work with a milling machine.   The holes had to be enlarged because the posts were a larger diameter than the Klipsch posts.  They also cut a notch for the plastic to engage so the posts will not turn in the plates.   The notch does not go all the way through the plate so there can be no air leak. (Probably wouldn’t be a problem because it would be real small and the speakers are ported and not sealed).

    EF29E43D-4A8D-4205-86AE-CF10392243CD.png

    • Like 1
  2. On 2/8/2022 at 3:01 PM, Shiva said:

    Went to a Magnolia today and gave a listen to some  B&W 802 Diamonds, powered by a pair of 500 watt Mcintosh Monos,  Mac preamp, SVS SB16 Ultra sub, a $3200 dollar power conditioner, forgot the brand name.  They had Tidal and played a couple of songs I listen to regularly, one being from The Marias, Hush.    The sub distorted and had to turn it down,  the sound of this system on the two tracks I heard, nothing to write home about.    Not selling my Epics, powered by a Crown K2 for em. 🤘  Later.   

    Well that is disappointing.  I was thinking of buying that subwoofer to go with my Corn IV.

  3. 17 hours ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:

    That is fine, there is plenty of mechanical seal there. 

     

    I use bananas on several sets of Klipsch speakers.  Heritage, Palladiums and KG series.

     

    If you are worried replace the post with deeper ones from Partsexpress. 

    That is the plan.   New posts from Parts Express.

  4. Thread locker wont help.   The plastic piece spins inside the hole in the input plate.  The Klipsch plastic bushing / washer is smooth all the way around.

    Aftermarket posts have a key that locks into the keyway in the plate and keeps the post from spinning.  The post is also squared off to lock into the bushing.  The Klipsch is a perfect circle and smooth.

    Klipsch Post.jpg

    PE Post 1.jpg

    Plate.jpg

    PE Post 2.jpg

    PE Post 3.jpg

    back plate.jpg

  5. 1 hour ago, wuzzzer said:

     

    What are you trying to connect to them?

    A decent set of binding posts that will not spin when you tighten up the speaker wires.  These type binding posts have a key that locks into a slot on the terminal plate that keeps it from spinning.

  6. 6 hours ago, KT88 said:

    Thank you for your plausible answer. I fully respect your criticisms of the sound of your Cornwalls and it is your personal and therefore true impression. Thus, your attempts to change have a motivation that I can understand.
    I don't want to defend everything concerning the Cornwalls. Still, a few ideas. It is a speaker that can be dependend in the sense that it will show whatever it is fed. What electronics are you using, transistors or tubes?  Both can sound very good but weaknesses also become apparent. Another factor is, one thread is just about how much break-in time a Cornwall needs (I personally think that after 50 hrs most of it is broken in).
    Additionally, it may matter what kind of speakers you had before and what you are used to. I listen to my old 1977 Lascala for over a year.... Before that I had speakers to BBC specifications, Stirling Broadcast LS3/6 and the famous little LS3/5. On the one hand they are very strong in timbre and they don't have unpleasant freq ranges.On the other hand, such types lack the dynamics and liveliness of the Cornwall. 
    It depends on many factors, of course also on the kind of music someone likes.
    In no way did I mean to deny you critical ability. It was your modification ideas that irritated me a bit especially when I didn't know why in the first place.

    My source is a Luxman D-03X CD player and a Bluesound Vault 2i.   The integrated amplifier is a Luxman L-509X.   Interconnects and speaker wire are Clarus Aqua.

    • Like 1
  7. 7 minutes ago, KT88 said:

    Did you have moments of joy listening to your new cornwalls? yes
    Was there anything you didn't like about listening to it? yes,  Seems a little harsh in the high mid / low highs
    What motivated you to take the speaker apart? Binding posts spinning when trying to tighten up speaker cables
    Did you have specific ideas about how the sound should change/improve? Maybe kill some harshness by padding the back wall?
    Do you know what specific action you took for what specific reason? With the binding posts, Yes.  With the foam, No
    What improvement is the plugging of damping material supposed to bring about? Good question, I wanted to know other's experiences
    What improvement should the modification of the terminals bring about? The ability to securely fasten the speaker wires without the posts turning and the ability to fully seat the banana plugs
    What experience do you have and on what knowledge base should all changes be made? Mostly wishful thinking when it comes to damping.  The binding posts are a mechanical issue
    Wouldn't it be better to respect a product that is the result of 60 years of development? And instead it would be a nice hobby if you build your own speakers parallel to the existing Cornwall 4, with wood materials from the hardware store and a driver set with xover from Walmart? Then you can fully realize yourself, test all the possibilities and listen to good music with beautiful sound of the Cornwalls while you tinker with your new individual speakers. I gave my respect in the form of American Dollars which represent a significant amount of time that it took me to earn those dollars.  The hardware store sells better wood materials than MDF.  Not aware of any WalMart Xovers.  I am aware of some quality manufacturers of drivers.

     

    Seriously, sometimes I think that fantasies of the alleged improvement projects actually have a destructive component. I agree, that is why I will probably leave them alone.  Just asking for other's experiences.
    I respect very much that you say in your last post that you leave the Cornwall as they were created. And I am very happy that this forum has helped you not to do things that are not logically understandable.

    Actually we are all sometimes a bit tempted to change things without really knowing why this or that measure should make us happier. The desire to change for the sake of change. This is a problematic phenomenon especially with acoustics...we pretend to want to improve something but as a consolation because it is very difficult we imagine that we enjoy the change. Agree

    To sum it up I am very happy that your thread has caused a rethink with you. Thanks
     

     

    • Like 1
  8. 2 hours ago, wuzzzer said:

    No reason to use a banana plug unless you're constantly unplugging the wire.  Bare wire will always give the best signal transfer.

    The banana plugs are for jumpers.  If I replace the binding posts, I will probably tie everything together on 2 posts instead of 4 and eliminate the jumpers.

  9. 47 minutes ago, RandyH said:

    the CW IV has a 10 years warranty  , is there anything wrong with the binding posts ?

    They are not keyed into the plates and they spin before the speaker wires are tightened sufficiently (in my opinion).  They are also too shallow to fully seat a banana plug.   The post inside the cabinet looks to be about a number 6 or 8 machine screw size.

    5B8C9C12-8060-4A8E-AD7B-ABFA5F7A3C7E.jpeg

    5D275797-F867-45A9-B2E6-AE46C83FA0F0.jpeg

  10. I am replacing the binding posts.  While inside the cabinet, I noticed lots of undamped space.  I am tempted to add some 1/2" foam on the rear panel.  But then again, I figure the panel was left uncovered for a reason. Has anyone added damping to a Cornwall IV, and if so, how did it turn out?  Where did you add damping?  What kind of material?

     

    Inside C IV.JPEG

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