Snails_Pace

I was in the same predicament as you when trying to find wife-approved stands for my KLF-C7s that I have upended and used as rear and side surrounds. They were previously sitting on triangular base/topped, tube steel support speaker stands (i.e. they were designed as speaker stands with wire guides in the tubes and carpet spikes on the base), and while the stands themselves are functional, the aesthetic effect was less than satisfactory (low WAF). What I ended up doing just this past weekend was going with four small but thin/tall Mission-style telephone stands stained with a cherry oak color that blended quite nicely with the somewhat reddish tint in our entertainment center. The stands themselves are now truly furniture grade items and the extra shelf down below can be used for knickknacks, plants, tall books, etc. There was a similarly sized phone stand at the furniture store built with a small drawer just below the top of the stand that had black handle accents and black steel legs extending to the floor with levelers built in...the combination of the wood finish and the black accents would have likely complemented the black wood/satin finish of the speakers. Just something to consider if you are not finding dedicated speaker stands that are to your liking...and the extra functionality of something like a small telephone stand, i.e. shelf or drawer, might be a nice selling point for your wife.

In a larger room with a smaller seating area, I've LOVED them. I've commented before that I personally feel the WDST type surround speakers are great if you really need to give everyone in the listening room a sense of spacious surround so that seating position won't matter...but since we have only one couch to listen from, that was never an issue. That being the case, the C7s are fantastic for music and with the THX engaged on the 5803, the "problem" of being able to localize rear surrounds from direct radiating speakers seems to melt away. @Krew--check your PM

An impending move, smaller home, and new daughter on the way are just some of the things we're having to contend with as we start boxing up our new belongings. The long and short of it is that I won't have room for my current Lengend-based HT in our new home. I currently have 2 immaculate black KLF-20s and a third KLF-20 that has been custom modded horizontally for a killer center channel (you can see a few pictures of the results on the board here). I have also been using four black KLF-C7s on vertical stands as my rear and side surrounds--they have not been modded at all. I have boxes and docs for all speakers but the modded center. I was considering breaking up the set and selling the pieces off on eBay...but was also curious before I did anything if anyone here on the board might be interested in the whole thing for a ready-made Lenged-based HT. Just fishing for a nibble or two before we make up our minds one way or another...

---------------- On 7/12/2005 1:16:36 PM kepople wrote: Thanks for the replies guys. I am not familiar with the Hirez format, but would like to know. I have a Harmon Kardon AV235 and use optical connections for everything. I also use a Samsung Upconvert DVD player, so if there is a player that can handle the Hirez, it should be this one. If not which. In either case, the AVR switches automatically to DTS audio or Dolby Digital surround per mode of the DVD. Please enlighten me if there is more audio quality I am missing, but I think i am there. I will check Towers sight for others. Kirby ---------------- DVD-Audio is a separate format--there's often confusion because people hear DVD-Audio and assume that it must mean audio from a DVD that happens to have Dolby Digital and dts audio information. DD and dts are good sounding audio formats, but Super Audio CD (SACD) and DVD-A are even higher resolution formats than DD and dts (DVD-A is 24-bit, 192 kHz, I'm not sure of the specs for an SACD signal). Conventional DD and dts are typically recorded at lower bit-depths and lower sampling rates. High-resolution formats like DVD-A and SACD are only transmitted via digital over a select few number of connections and protocols at the moment and you must have a compatible receiver to take advantage of them. If you're only using a toslink or coax digital connection, than you cannot take advantage of higher resolution audio formats like DVD-A or SACD. However, some DVD-A discs also include a lower-resolution DD or dts signals (and some SACD discs also include a conventional CD audio compliant track) that IS compatible with the digital transmission limits of the toslink and coax digital connections so that you get some of the advantages of a slightly higher resolution signal. Here's some information about SACD: http://www.sonymusic.com/sacd/index.html and here's some for DVD-A: http://www.digitalaudioguide.com/faq/dvd-audio/faq_intro.htm Also, don't confuse an upconverting DVD player with one that decodes high-resolution format audio--upconverting most often refers to the video signal (i.e. going from 480i or 480p video to 720p or 1080i), but has little to do with the audio. In fact, an audio "upsampling" DVD player will typically only take a normal, lower resolution bitstream and over-sample it to a 24-bit, 96 kHz signal, but it cannot actually decode the original digital bitstream of these higher resolution formats. If you're looking for a player that actually decodes these signals, they are typically called universal players or explicitly include the DVD-Audio or SACD logos on them--a DVD-Video player cannot decode the high resolution audio information of a DVD-A disc unless the disc includes a lower resolution track and SACDs need their own decoding chip (as far I understand it). I'm sure there are plenty of people here far more learned about this stuff than me, but this should at least get you primed for an understanding about the higher-resolution audio formats that are commercially available right now.

---------------- On 1/11/2005 2:45:29 PM silversport wrote: Thanks Snails_Pace: I did mean with the Heresys...I tried to get some off of audiogoN and they were already spoken for so I went with plan "B" since I had read they were difficult to find (Oh, 1 guy here has them but won't ship to the MidWest and the other sold them a year ago... )so as soon as I bought "plan B", the KSF-F5s...a set of KSP-S6s came up not far from my home albeit at almost twice what I paid for my not yet received KSF-S5s...wondered if it was worth getting the KSPs and re-selling the KSF-S5s... Thanks, Bill ---------------- Well, you certainly won't be disappointed with the S6s...they're an incredible surround speaker though the pricing issues have gotten a little out of hand over the past few years as they become even more difficult to find. I'm afraid I can't speak to how they would mate with your Heresys though; a lot depends on how much you paid for your F5s to know if almost twice the price would still be a good deal. But if you're simply looking for a more robust surround that will provide you a fuller-range signal over a wider lisenting area, you can't go wrong with the KSP-S6--they don't even make the vaunted Reference surrounds with that design! Good luck.

---------------- On 1/10/2005 5:26:57 AM silversport wrote: The KSP-S6s are one step up the food chain for surround speakers...they are of the dipole variety (not good for multichannel music listening I'm told)...If you were going to use your multichannel 5.1 system, would you "upgrade" to the KSP-S6s or stick with the KSF-S5s...(I would RATHER have Heresy rears but alas, room is somewhat tight.) Thanks for any help. Bill ---------------- I guess the answer would depend on what speakers you wanted to match the surrounds to--are you matching to another set of KSF mains or something else, perhaps the Heresy line you mentioned? If you're a purist about voice matching and you've got KSF mains, you'd probably want to stick with KSF surrounds to keep the voice-match between drivers as close as possible. In theory, this would help you maintain a more seamless soundfield for surrounds/panning effects that wouldn't call attention to the change between speakers/sound sources. However, the KSP-S6s were also the only "sanctioned" surround match for the Legend series (I used to have a pair myself before I went with all matching KLF-C7s for side and rear surrounds) so they're pretty difficult to find, what with both Legend AND Synergy series owners looking to snag the few remaining sets floating around Audiogon or eBay. But if you're just asking in general which would be preferable, the KSP-S6s are certainly a beefier speaker with two cones and two horns to the KSF's 1 and 2 design. I believe with the S6 you'd get a more uniformly dispersed soundfield since you'd have a full-range signal spread across all 180 degrees of the speaker's coverage; the KSF surround only offers a single woofer at the 90 degree point and two horns off-axis from each other. This could conceivably lead to "holes" in frequency response depending on the listener's location in relation to the speaker or its various drivers. However, in a small room like yours, such placement issues may not be a major factor; in which case, you might not notice any real advantage of one over the other beyond the obvious "voicing" differences of the KSF vs. KSP drivers and horn array (of which I cannot comment since I've never heard the KSF line myself).

---------------- On 10/25/2004 5:34:08 AM redtop wrote: . . . One question...would you mind sharing the info on the paint you used? A couple of my 30's could use some touch up... ---------------- I just lucked into the paint at the local Wal Mart--the cabinet was so badly beat up I figured anything would be better than nothing and I REALLY didn't want to try sanding down the veneer finish and re-painting. It's called Krylon Color Creations, Acrylic Latex Enamel Indoor/Outdoor paint, Black Satin (color code KDH5005). I swear, the new speaker's finish is a dead ringer for the original black satin paint on the other KLF speakers! Captain--I honestly don't know what relocating the ports would do, if anything. I left them in place as I believe the other HornEd types have done. Part of the reason was that I didn't want to compromise the enclosure any more than it already had been by pounding off another side of the box; the other part was that it was just easier to leave the back panel alone. Sonically speaking, I don't think the location of the ports are as critical as the number, length and diameter, but someone more knowledgeable of acoustic design should probably chime in on that point.

---------------- On 10/24/2004 2:54:30 PM SCOOTERDOG wrote: Sweet! Welcome to the custom center club. I used the midrange horn out of a KLF30 but went with the alnico T35 (aka k77) for the high frequency horn, woofers are from a RF7. Enjoy, makes a huge difference in dialog for movies and excellent center for music when playing dvd audio discs or sacd discs. attached is a pick of mine scooter ---------------- Interesting mix of drivers, what kind of crossover network did you use--RF7, Legend, custom?

And here's a shot with it sitting under the plasma TV with the grille cloth attached. Now...what to do about those KLF-C7s around the back--maybe another 3-4 KLF-20s?!

Well, it only took me about 5 years, but I've FINALLY finished my home theater, HornEd-ized KLF-20 center channel and all! The fronts are now KLF-20s all across, and 4 KLF-C7s on the back and side surrounds. I had been using an unmodded KLF-10 simply laid on its side as the center channel, but the difference now having all the same drivers, and having the horns oriented for horizontal play, ,makes it just THAT much more of an incredible surround experience! For those of you on the fence about modding a full-range speaker to act as a center channel--all I can say is that you will NOT be disappointed. I had considered trying to make the motor-board myself, but I'm glad I went with a cabinet maker who just did the work for me. I did end up painting the whole thing, but found an incredible enamel satin paint that is a dead-ringer for the Klipsch's black satin finish. I was worried at first because the used KLF-20 I bought off eBay for this project was REALLY beat up--but after the paint dried, you'd be hard pressed to tell where any of the scuffs and scratches used to be. I'm glad I decided not to try a sheet or two of laminate to give the speaker a new lease on life (this was suggested by a couple of thoughtful posters on this board)--it may well have worked in the end, but I don't think I would have EVER got the finish smooth enough and the results using the paint were better than I could have hoped for! Anyway, I thought I'd post a couple pics of the speaker just before going live and one in its new home. The open-faced picture doesn't really do the finish justice...the flash made it look like there were several spots where unfinished wood was showing through around the corners, but the actual finish is matte black all across the front of the MDF motor-board. BTW, if anyone is interested in upgrading their KLF-C7 center channel to a monster, full-range Legend center channel, I've also posted the KLF-10 I was using on eBay for a steal starting under $80--condition is about as factory fresh as you can get.

---------------- On 9/5/2004 8:57:26 AM ironwoods wrote: Hi, no. If the OEM only has a 2 pronger, you're OK. I'd only worry if it was the other way around. I'm surprised the female plug fits. I don't have any of that fancy-shmancy gear. ---------------- Thanks for the feedback. By OEM I'm assuming you mean the components and not the cord--just making sure. The female end does indeed fit into the socket though it's not as tight a connection as I would have hoped! Thanks again!

I recently bought a new power cable from a friend on another board and wanted to audition any of the "supposed" advantages of upgrading such items myself before investing more heavily into a hobby like this. However, both of the components I wanted to try the cable on (sub and receiver) have 2-blade IEC sockets while the power cable has a 3-blade IEC connector with a ground pin and 2 blades on the electrical plug. I understand that the ground pin connects the metal frame of the actual component to the electrical ground in wall plug. However, let's say I go ahead and plug the cable into my 2-blade components anyway; is there any danger involved with having the ground pin connected at the wall receptacle but no associated blade to make the connection at the component end? Thanks!

---------------- On 8/21/2004 4:32:19 PM rdfish1 wrote: I searched this site and found a thread directing me to "snapbug.com" or something like that, and it has tones that can be played. I was trying to download them to CD so i could play them in my stereo and test my subwoofer but couldn't get it to work. What am i doing wrong? How do I do it? Are there better sites or better ways to do this? I have never downloaded anything from the web but the SVS guy said i could do it. ha easier said than done for me. ---------------- The snapbug site is a common destination for bass test tone junkies. However, unless your CD or DVD player can also read MP3s, the problem you might be running into that you need to convert the .MP3 files to standard CD .WAV files (16-bit, 44.1 khz sampling), or have the CD mastering program do it for you. If you use someting like Nero or Roxio's recorders, just make sure you choose the option to make an "Audio CD" from whatever menu systems you have and the program should convert the file formats for you during the pre-burn/file processing. Then the finished CD-R will have the MP3s as separate tracks that are playable on virtually any CD or DVD player.

---------------- On 8/30/2004 9:55:32 AM malechi wrote: $450 is the price limit. New or Factory Reconditioned? I'm thinking of the AVR-1082 but is there something else out there I should consider? What about the AVR-1705 or AVR-1905??? listening area is 13.5x24x7.5 ---------------- If you can find one, I would consider going with the 1905 given that you've set your price limit at $450 and are set on Denon. The 1905 offers enough amps for a 7.1 application if you want it, and if not, you can always use the back surround amps to power a Zone 2 set of speakers (that's the only thing I really miss in my 1705). Otherwise, the two you've mentioned are virtually identical. I think the 1082 is a bit more powerful but has fewer video inputs (component) and no PL2x decoding. I've bought two factory reconditioned Denon products and never had an issue, but you need to judge whether the added warranty is worth the extra $$ (though at this low a price point, I'd probably opt for new). Just my $.02

---------------- On 5/13/2004 6:41:03 PM iwillwalk wrote: I'm trying to get my camera to download a pic. The klf 10 has been transformed into a center. looks like a big c-7. got the idea from horned. he was the first to make other board members start doing it. i'll work on the pic they would be great with your klf 20's anyone else think so? ---------------- The KLF-10 works awesome as a center channel with the 20s (I have one myself)--I don't even have mine HornEd-ized for horizontal play but you'd never know it from the sound that baby produces up front! Actually, I'm in the process of modding a single KLF-20 I got off eBay for center channel duty myself. When I'm done, I'll have a single KLF-10 (unmodded) for sale as well--anyone here thinking of getting iwillwalk's set and still wants a PAIR of KLF-10s for surrounds might be able to put a whole center/rear array together between the two of us!