Rudy81

I realized after the AMT builds, that I should try to optimize my 2-way speakers by trying to go full dipole vs. using a ported LF cabinet. After much research I found that an open baffle H frame with dual 18" Goldwood drivers might do the trick. So, built a prototype and was able to confirm that in fact, I could go fully dipole and achieve very good full range frequency response. Yesterday I hooked up the new H frames. Today, I ran REW and got extremely good results for an full OB system. I still have some tweaking to do, but overall, this looks like a winner combination. The H frames turned out pretty good. These monster drivers are ridiculously inexpensive, although limited in xmax. For listening room use, that should not be a problem. This combo, I don't think, would be possible if not using an actively crossed system. The AMT's are way more efficient than the Goldwoods, so had to tweak my amps to match SPL. The symmetrical picture is of the center channel. The picture with offset drivers is the left main speaker. The right is the mirror image. This insanity never ends.....I guess that's a good thing.

I am hoping one of you guys can help me get music to my back yard, with certain limitations. I do not currently have AC power at the location. I do have wifi within range. I would like to be able to send a music signal from inside the house, using my receiver. Have the signal go from my receiver to a suitably capable speaker over wifi. I was looking at the Sonos site, but can't figure out if I can do what I need with their system. I hope I made my challenge clear.

Thank you all! I am doing great. Back at work, been busy in that area. I greatly appreciate all the support.

My wing stack has the following dimensions: 13.5"Hx15.5"Wx14.5"D. Construction is primarily 18mm Baltic Birch.

Love mine. Haven't heard anything from ESS, not that I expected to.

The best part of all of this is that we have found a really good method to create a very nice sounding 2-way speaker. Very versatile and a great DIY project!

If you look throughout the earlier posts, you will note comments during our testing by @Chris A indicating that a symmetrical setup is of benefit. My initial build was not symmetrical. Subsequent builds on my part have all been symmetrical.

I must say, that is superb work. Beautiful!

Any pictures of your final product?

Pretty amazing when I think about it!

Just wanted to add a definite improvement in my system, due to the discussion on page 11 (of this thread) regarding minimizing the distance between the AMT stack and the bass drivers. In its original setup, the center to center distance between my AMT stack and the 15" drivers was 28". If I flipped my bass bins, the distance is reduced to 17". Since I was just hanging around the house, I did a simple experiment. Changed nothing at all in the active xover. Set up my mic at the LP and took a full range sweep. I then flipped the bass bin and ran an identical sweep. I will attach the curves below. Obviously, getting the driver sets closer to each other improves the perceived performance at and around the xover point. IIRC my Xover is right around 1kHz. As a result of that little experiment, I took the time to reset my spikes and flip all three bass bins. So far, the system sounds excellent. I actually needed to EQ the LF bins less than I previously did. I think this is going to be a winning strategy to get the most out of my 2-way system. As an aside, the timing delay for the AMT stack was reduced from 1.05ms to 0.49ms.

Michael, see the PM I sent you yesterday re: the recording you mentioned. It is definitely the recording. I too hear the issues you speak of on my system.

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Just stumbled on this. Good price depending on driver and cab condition. No connection with seller, just thought it might be a good deal for someone. https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/ele/d/fort-worth-klipsch-cornerhorns-and-bella/7104426137.html

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There is no such thing. This is a total DIY project and size/shape depends on your needs and desires. I recommend you grab a big cup of coffee and start at the beginning. By the time you get back here, you will know all we know about the builds.

Outside my area of expertise, but if the problem only exists with one recording, at a predictable spot, you are well on your way to discovering the problem.

Make sure either the bow tie I made or any of the barrier strip components are not the ones vibrating at loud volumes.

The mesh I am referring to is white in color and has a diamond pattern to it. It sits on top of the pleats. Although risky, you can remove the diaphragm and use something like super glue to re-attach to the black FRAME of the diaphragm. If you do this, use just enough glue to make the 'weld'. I have found while playing with the damaged diaphragm, that super glue deforms or melts the pleated material. You have been warned. Are you sure that it is the mesh that is vibrating at higher volumes? I would exhaust ALL options before removing the diaphragm. Better yet, call Ricky and explain your issue.

I finally found the energy to install the new diaphragm that Ricky sent me. This unit was way easier to fit into the magnet structure and only took a few minutes to install. I did find that one of the plastic screens was 'free' on one end of the diaphragm frame. I installed the diaphragm and so far, so good. It's up there breaking in with music as I type. Once broken in I plan on placing it back in the center channel position. Will need to do a sweep or two to ensure polarity is correct. Just listening to the new diaphragm, it sounds just fine. If anything changes, I'll update.

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