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Everything posted by pythagore

  1. Hi Guys, Sorry, I already have someone local coming to see them tomorrow.
  2. I have the following pair of Klipsch horn for sale in excellent condition. Manufacturer date 1977. I bough them in 2007 from a fellow klipshter (he bought them new in the early 80s). I have been using them once a week (2-3 hours on Saturdays) whenever I'm home I have upgraded the tweeter and cross-over with Bob Crites A4500/CF125 kit. I also updated the mid-range diaphragm with diaphragm from Bob Crites. since I don't have a perfect corner, I have created two false corners as per klipsch instructions.(They are included if you want them) The two wings are just for cosmetics, they have absolutely no effect on the sound. I have the original wings as well. Asking $2000 for them. I'm in Ottawa (Kanata) Canada, of course no shipping, pickup only at my house. See attached pics. thanks,
  3. I'm not going to replace them. I'm selling them because I have not used for months. But I do have a second 7.1 system based on the RF-83 series
  4. The speakers are in excellent condition. I upgraded both the tweeter and the cross-over with new parts (B&K Sound Type A/4500 Crossover/ Crites CT-125 Tweeter) from Bob Crites (http://www.critesspeakers.com/). I created the wings to emulate the Jubilees look. (I still have the original wings). Due to the size of these speakers I will not ship, pick up only at my house in Ottawa, Ontario (Canada). $2500 Jean
  5. The thing is I find the RF83 to be not too musical for 2 channel music. Therefore, I disconnected the metal brackets that link the high and low speaker connectors and connect the heresy in parallel with the RF-83 low end The RF-83 provides the low-end and the heresy provides mid and high. This combination is breath taking. However I'm wondering since there is no amp input to the tweeter wheter this can damage the tweeter over time?
  6. Hi fellow Klipschters, I have been looking for a tube amp to power my RF-83s A fellow Canucks offered me a pair of Shanling SP-80 for $1200CAD (==$1190 USD) . Any experience with these amps? They are 50Watts/ch, is 50w/ch enough to power my RF-83s to75-85dB level? Can I find better tube amp at that price range? Best Regards,
  7. I have found the root cause of the problem.The relay (part number NAIS LK1aF-24V, color black, right on top of the main power module) that turns the system on is no longer working. If I short the COM and the ON pins of the relay, then the subpowered on fine. I then went ahead and replaced the part with the equivalent, and voila!.
  8. I have the exact same problem with one of my two ultra sets. I noticed the problem yesterday when I went to turn the system on. When I press on the Pod power button, nothing happen. I opened the back panel of the sub from both set of Ultra subs, swapped the fuse between the set that is ok and the one that's not, and the fuse is not the problem. I then swapped one of the 3 supply modules, and it is not the problem. I believe the problem may be due to the main supply block. The sub is not hot, no burned part, no noticeable problem with any of the components. But, I will keep swapping module between the two systems until I find the exact module that 's causing the problem, and from there I can locate the exact component causing the problem. I'll keep you updated on my findings.
  9. Guys/Gals Help me decide. Here it is, I have a fellow canuck offered to sell me a Shanling CD T300 ($7000 US) tube CD player for $2500 US. I have read multiple good reviews about this CDP. But the problem is I have never used a CD player as my 2-channel playback. I'm curently using an HTPC based on the Lynx 2B (http://www.lynxstudio.com/product_detail.asp?i=12) audio PCI card. The analog out of the Lynx card is routed to a BAT VK-31SE tube preamp . All audio files are encoded in the FLAC format, and the sound is absolute breath taking. My Question are: Should I buy this CD player? Anyone transitions from the HTPC route to an actual CDP? Has anyone ever witnessed a competition between a really nice CDP set up and a high resolution Computer Audio set up? Which set up would you rather have if it was going to be delivered to your house tomorrow? the Shanling or the mentioned HTPC (leave cost aside, I'mreferring to sonic performance)? Can this CD player really outmatch my current HTPC setup? I just don't want to spend $2500 just to find out that it sounds the same as my current HTPC system The reason I'm asking is I never put my system against a CD based system, I take the HTPC route due to its simplicity and ability to have access to thousands of audio files at my finger tip. Here is the rest of my systtem HTPC::Lynx 2B -> BAT VK-31SE (Balanced In/Out) -> Classe CA-400 ->Klipsch Horns If I decide to buy the T300, it will replace the HTPC::Lynx 2B from the chain
  10. I Had 2 pairs of RF-7, I replaced a pair with a pair of RF-83. I usally listen to 2-channel music. Then a while back a pair of Heresy showed up on my Local used item market. I bought them and compared them against both my RF-83 and my RF-7. Same setup, same room, I simply switched the cables between the speakers while playing a song I know very well. Since then I'm using the Heresy for music listening and RF-83/RF-7 for movies playback. I was so impressed with the Heresy, I then boutgh a pair of KlipschHorns. The RF series while good, but are not in the same league with the Heritage.
  11. Dean, it's a possibility, how do I upgrade the existing 4500A to 4500AA? Thanks,
  12. . Guys,Thank you I was looking at the following pricing for a 6uf || 7uF since they don't have a 13uF http://www.hovlandcompany.com/pdf/prices/MusiCapsPrc.pdf Is that a waste of money, or should I simply buy the cap from Allied link?
  13. Jay, I already bought a pair of 4500A and the matching tweeer from both. While great, but, I prefer the sound using the original parts. My observation with the BEC xover and tweeter, is I feel that both the midrange and the low end are lacking compared to the original parts. I still have the BEC parts which I'm no longer using. I may try to reinstall them again to confirm my observation.
  14. Hi Guys, I would like to upgrade the caps in my K-horn crossover and I have a few questions. I would like to replace the current 32 years old caps with better caps. The crossover is labelled Klipsch Type AA, it has 3 oil caps and two inductors. What are the value of the caps since I don't see any label on them? What is the recommended good audiofile capacitor, and where do I buy them? Should I go with some audiophile paper oild caps or metallized polyester? Thanks, Jean
  15. Hpower, I read alot of rave reviews regarding the Juicy music peach II. The one on Audiogon is sold. I have a fellow here in Ottawa selling a BAT VK 3i for $1400, I think I'll take it and pair it with my Classe amp. I read some good reviews about this unit too.
  16. Mark, very interesting point. The Classe amp is a sweet sounding amp, I love the amp. It is currently matched with my Arcam FMJ AVP9, to drive my second zone audio. Ok, I'll buy a tube preamp for my second Zone and keep the amp.
  17. Thank guys, very good inputs so far. I read a lot of good things about the primaluna prologue series.
  18. No, no need for phono capabilty. The source will be my PC with 2Tera bytes of FLAC audio files. The sound Card in the PC is a Lynx 2B, the analog out of this sound card is as good as it can get. I compare the anolog out of this card to my Arcam AVP9, and the difference is barely noticeable.
  19. I'm currently using a Classe CA-400 (400W/ch into 8 Ohm, 800W/CH into 4 Ohm) to drive my Khorns, that's too much power taking into account the high sensitivity of the Khorns. The Classe is a sweet sounding amp, but 400W/ch is a waste. I'm putting the Classe for sale so I can buy a very good sounding tube amp. I saw a couple of Chinese brand tube audio product on the market. Among them is the Shangling STP80 35W/ch, is that good? A local seller offered me the followings: Bat VK 3i Tube Preamp ($1,500) , Sonic Frontiers Power 2 . 110 watts per channel ($2,500) Cary integrated Tube Amp SL-30 . 34w/c $1,000 Any comments on these units?
  20. It's difficult to see the problem in picture. Looking at the woofer you will never notice anything wrong, but holding the woofer upside down and shake it, I can see the copper section of the wooofer that is supposed to be glued to the base, simply move up and down causing that loud flapping noise. By left woofer, I meant facing the sub (the closest the LR main.)
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