John Warren

no bondo! 1. remove the drivers. 2. clean the entire inside of the enclosure, remove fiberglass and staples, network, use a leaf blower and blow out dust. 3. if cracked mitre joint a)scrape the inside corner clean of dried glue, get down to the MDF or plywood. b)cut a 3/4" X 3/4" rub block about 1" less in length than the inside length of the joint. c) liberally paint all mating surfaces with yellow glue or animal glue. d) work (rub) the block into the joint, until it doesn't move. leave it alone till dry. 4. For the outside of the enclosure, clean the crack (if at the mitre) free from old glue, use a razor. Open the crack to allow filling. Fill with a ebony wood putty. if you need a rub block, buy a sq. dowel at lumber yard and cut it to length. If the LLC has already installed rub blocks (possible since they are manufactured a "tad" better than Emerson) they procedure will not work. If the panel cracked, the procedure is same but instead of using a rub block, bridge the crack from the inside with a 1/2" thick plywood panel about 1" wide and cut the length of the crack, paint both mating sides with glue and two clamps. This message has been edited by John Warren on 08-28-2001 at 05:39 AM

djk-Can you recommend a replacement for the EV 18W-K? I own a KD Patrician IV. I have all the drivers but the woofer. All I know about the "-K" is that is was a 4 ohm, Fs 22Hz driver specifically designed for the horn loaded Patrician. The woofer mounting plate is removable and attached to the front baffle with T-nuts, a nice surprise. I can make a new plate to accomodate any woofer.

Gil- I was thinking of the Klipschorn owners manuals, instructions, etc which are copyrighted. At the time PWK was running the show, copyright lasted life of author + 70 years so for all intents and purposes its forever. You are correct, however. It is a Federal offense to infringe on a copyright. Just waiting for the day when a E-V or JBL goes after ebay Bozo's that sells Xerox copies of thier copyrighted work. Purchaser is also liable, it is receipt of stolen property. This message has been edited by John Warren on 08-26-2001 at 07:54 AM

PWK allowed DIY horns because the patents were active back then. They've long expired. You can build and sell them if you want. Just don't call them Klipschorns or LaScala, there is no expiration dates on trademarks and copyrights.

the rope caulk is for your ears, not the horn!

the Henry Rollins thing--- sort of like the fat, bald, old guy that wears a earing, a pitiful attempt to appear "hip". JBL has Santana The LLC has The Black Flag Team Leader (good one Fred!) Don't ignore the hype, ANALYZE it, only then will you realize their ideal.

a piano has to be quite good, large and expensive to reproduce the 27.5 Hz you mention.

dwgs r German, the website is Italian

this is a picture of a reinforcement method for the Klipschorn side wall that was developed by PWK and is contained in the original plans. Each "tab" has two screws thru it a glued. Klipschorns made sometime after the 80's eliminated this stiffening method, why I don't know. I have recently completed a second pair that utilize 3/4" side walls and 3/4" V-panels with stiffening ribs down the backs. These don't "ring" like the stock 1/2" units. This message has been edited by John Warren on 08-19-2001 at 06:31 AM

if you read the Italian introduction is states that the builder can make the panels either 16mm (5/8") or 19mm (3/4") thk. the dimensions must be compensated to consider the change. This message has been edited by John Warren on 08-18-2001 at 09:40 PM

here are plans, they are from ISOPHON http://web.tiscali.it/audiofanatic/Piani_costruttivi/LaScala.html

With patience, basic cabinet making skills (clamps, glue, screws) and table saw with 60 tooth carbide blade, the LaScala is not difficult to fabricate AND fun. The MSRP for the LaScala is going up making construction a suitable alternative for some. Before T-S parameters the woofer needed to be 4 ohm, 15" driver with Fs 26-28Hz and maximum excursion no larger than 7mm. The LLC charges $100 for K33E. If you stick with the quality level the LLC uses (recommended), a pr. of AL-3 networks can be made for almost nothing. The autoformer cost $18 and can be purchased from UTC. I built "super" quality versions and heard no difference. To my ears, fancy network components bring nothing to the table, maybe I'm deafening. I have a set of plans for the LaScala. What's your mailing address.

Jim, I did that trick once, and then I had to remove the panel a couple of years later and guess what....

"what was that cracking sound?" thought Ray as he turned the screw of the bar clamp just alittle farther than he should have. This message has been edited by John Warren on 08-15-2001 at 05:58 PM

how the HELL can you play pool in that tiny room?

HornEd-I own no KLF systems. I own horns (Klipschorns, LaScalas, EV Patricians). Just sold a pr. of University Deans. Also own JBL (L200s, L100s) + loose drivers from University, Stentorian, Wigo, JBL, Tannoy, Hartley, EV, Bozak, Permoflux, Jensen and a few others. Most of the stuff is collecting dust but still fun to have around. I'm the only guy on my block that has a pair of NIB T-350 tweeters and NIB EV 15WKs.

IMO, the Ranger/Paragon looks better than it sounds. Hartsfield is a nice system, but for my money, the Jensen Imperial is the hands down favorite.

PWK would have used real wood glue, 3/4" thick stock and screws to hold the KLF enclosures together, not Grandma Nellie's Arts and Crafts Hot Melt.

$1040 purchase of GE stock in 1974 would be worth $73100 today.

Tom-Sorry for going off on a tangent, the threads on this board are dull, I'm trying to make things a bit more interesting! When it comes time to technojabber Joe Sixpack (the guy wearing the Mickey Mouse sweatshirt), the marketing folks turns to the jargon of the Materials Scientist (grain boundaries in cables, alumium oxide coatings on cones, sweet sound of Alnico, Polymers, Kevlar, etc). Why, because it sounds convincing. This message has been edited by John Warren on 08-01-2001 at 05:11 AM

IMG]http://216.37.9.58/ubb/cwmsmilies/cwm31.gif This message has been edited by John Warren on 08-10-2001 at 08:29 PM

Now here is an interesting quote pulled form another thread on this forum..... "I just spent some time a/b listening to the 5's & 7's and I liked the 5's better. The bass was tighter but the 7's ARE more efficent. The guy at the store stated that the new copper cones take a LONG time to break-in (100hrs) and the 5's were broken-in..." Ok, who propogates this information, the dealer, the LLC? What are the physics underlying Aluminum cone break-in vs. paper cone. Why 100hrs? at what frequency? what is "breaking in" anyway?? The BS is so deep its stands alone as its own form of ENTERTAINMENT! This message has been edited by John Warren on 07-29-2001 at 09:18 AM

When I buy a used cast basket driver, I give them a close going over with a 10X Hastings Triplet. I have found the ocassional crack in what appeared to be perfect drivers. Can't do that on Ebay. This message has been edited by John Warren on 07-30-2001 at 05:02 AM

I don't think so Gil. Anyone that works in manufacturing today knows that inventory is a thing of the past. the best drivers have huge magnet assys resulting in large G-forces at the frame web when bumped. By the LLCs own admission, the plastic frames break with 10" baskets. Most pro drivers are 12 and 15" with enormous motor structures. Also too, I wonder how well the LLC investigated the frames that they say did not crack?

This message has been edited by John Warren on 07-26-2001 at 06:56 PM