John Warren

It looks something like this: http://www.sundial.net/~rogerr/national.htm

Anyone have back issues of this flyer. Published out of NY state.

Where can I find a set of plans for this unit? Anyone know?

i'd figure the least thing they could do is take all the crap of the freakin thing before taking the pic. soem sellers are beyond stupid.

my comments aren't bad, the're the facts wrapped in dripping sarcasm.

sorry for not being all warm and fuzzy here I think PWK gave the world a great folded horn! He's clearly a giant in the Audio field. Phil H- putting a little mid-range horn in a box is not the power of horn loading, I can see PWK rolling his eyes over your comment.t that's just marketing hype but it sells and i understand that but pls don't sling the BS here, i can get it at Cicuit Circuit City, Best Buys or Sears "Brand Central"

New line will be exciting! Some features will include MASSIVE (almost 1lb.) woofer magnet structures, "extra heavy duty" stamped sheet metal woofer baskets, extensive use of 1/2" THICK MDF, Injection molded polystyrene tractrix mid-range horns, CO networks fabricated from the finest FAR EAST (Chinese) components avialable, all wrapped up in cabinet work that would make "O'Sullivan" envious. Costs will be partitioned according to what market will bear, will have no basis on actual manufacturing costs ("Joe Chevy" and his T-shirt clad girlfriend expects to pay $499.99 for a pr. of "Klipsch" speakers, then "BY GOD" we'll give him a pr.)

the mid and tweeter horns used on the Khorn should be pack away in a box, sealed and stored in the attic for 40 or 50 years. at that time, get them, and sell them on Ebay for 10X what they are really worth--make sure you call them "Vintage". Also throw the word "Alnico" in too, even if it's a mud magnet, most buyers don't know anyway.

m

this woofer wrong for khorn need Fs low twenties 4 ohm K-33E is good for application mccauly is for musical instruments w/Fs 40Hz carbon fiber cone is good for horn loading high magnetic field is good for horn loading

Colin, that realy cool place was called Tech Hifi located at MIT and Harvard Sq. in a place that is now a yuppified teen mall. I worked there part time 77-79 while going to school there. Commission only. Tweeter was on the other side of the Sq. on Mt. Auburn St. Tech sold all high end stuff for the time. Big McIntosh and JBL Pro dealer. Place was always busy, always made money, badly managed.

i have a pr. of T-350s w/k-horns. I think they're ok. efficiency is ~106dB/W/m. I'm not sure I'd pay $400 for them.

sure those baskets are stamped?

those Empire speakers with plastic enclosures that resembeld buckets with the downward firing woofer--came in white, blue and red.

Hmmmm- Here's a picture of a K-33, labelled such on the mounting flange. The K33E designation is on the magnet. This came from a 1982 K-horn. One speaker, both designations!!!

cement makes a great horn material. packing an aluminum or polymeric horn in cement is a BAD idea, the cement will separate from the horn

Guy-Patrician bass output is impressive, organ pedal notes are reproduced with real weight. Down side is that it is a 4-way configuration a real pain to network. Need a decent mid-bass horn and complex CO network.

don't get hung up on wire---just get OFHC grade copper (Carroll and Belden makes it to the ASTM specifications).

call klipch at 1-800-BEND-OVA for a replacment.

Q-man, My Patrician plans came from Oct 1955 Audio magazine article written by Roy Allison. Very well detailed and includes a step by step procedure. I built the unit detailed in the article and used EV 18WK bass drivers, no decorator cabinet, utility look only. If you have different plans, lets copy and swap. Send me address off-line, I'll reply. Regarding construction, It is my opinion that the Patrician per the Audio mag plans is easier to build than the K-horn per factory plans. Also, high end roll-off of the Patrician starts around 250Hz, 3-way will leave a hole in the response unless you go horn loaded cone for mid-bass. LaScala atop Patrican folded unit?

John A-The bass horns were shipped in the "KD" configuration, nothing special to look at. Recently, I've developed a exponential mid squawker horn cast from ultra fine Portland cement. I'm modifing the design to minimize the cement usage. Total weight is only 70lbs. Compression driver is the stock OEM but any 1 3/8" can be substituted. Listening tests made the effort well worth the work! I will post pics when complete. Reagarding the network, I swapped out the caps (Holivand) and the coils (Solen). Also, I mounted the components on a larger board given them greater nearest-neigbors distances than OEM spacing. The sound improvement was significant and IMO superior to OEM unit. The AA-network has been around for a long time, works well with the K-horn and PWK likes it. I can't say if Al's design brings more value to the table than a "hot-rodded" OEM unit. For my ears, I know for a fact that premium hardware improves the stock AA unit so dramatically (repeat 3X) It should be a standard mod for anyone serious about listening to music accurately.

tomd--thanks! the horn is fabricated using end-grained joints, they must be prepared prior to joining or else the glue will be pulled into the plys and away from the joint. The end-grains are first painted with a thin coat of hot animal glue. the low viscosity of the hot glue penetrates about a 1/16" deep into the end grain. once dry the mating panel is then fitted, pilot holes and c'sinks for screws properly located then drilled. for assy, the mating panel is "primed" with stainless steel sheet metal screws, a heavy, continous bead of glue applied, panel is set and the screws are driven. No caulking of any type is used, the excess glue is allowed to just squish out. The woofer chamber looks like a bead of caulk was applied, actually I just ran my finger around the woofer chamber joints to keep those surfaces clean. I made these units for someone else, the woofer chambers had to be clean. You right about the DIY thing, you must have a good table saw and soem decent tools. I've got an old Tannowitz Variety Saw, makes a Powermatic look like a toy! John

rowooo-thanks, i've made many over these so a bit straight fwd. key is assembly sequence, if sequence is wrong you end up with gaps and misfits. precisely machined parts is good start but if assy sequence wrong-->gaps!! i've made University Classic, University Dean, EV Patrician and Klipschorns, its fun, keeps me sane and only real cost is the plywood. It takes 2 sheets of 3/4" and 4 sheets of 1/2" premium birch ply, about 500 screws and a quart of glue to make a pair of K-horn bass horns, or about $200 each.

we roll our own here