colterphoto1

Dude, you are killing me, those would look so sweet in my hearth room with the pine paneling... but I'm way up past my neck in unused speakers still... glws

pass

gone

NOT II's

Yup, it's more than even community, it's family. I've met more of you guys than I can possibly count and had more fun times than I can recall. The gear that makes music is not exactly a byproduct but seems like a bonus compared to the value of all the friendships.

see PM

I should have been dead about 9 years ago.

I use LS mains, KLF-C7, and Cornwalls for rear surrounds. You're on the right track keeping three of the same series (Heritage) speaker across the front. I'm happy with my setup but have plans for a center vertical CW at some point. Also I have a set of pro theater components that will be identical LCR - you can't beat that combination. If you're using LS as mains, get some serious subbage.

100% movies, I'd get the THX setup. The subs are incredible.

I have a few programs in my receiver that I utilize 1= THX surround, YPAO on, normal dynamics 2 = Stereo sound, full range front L+R only YPAO, no subs (for stereo listening) 3 THX, YPAO, SUBS - 3 db, Min dynamics for late night listening 4 THX, YPAO, Subs +6, MAX dynamics for demo and really loud stuff.

It shouldn't matter what db level you calibrate your speakers at, so long as it's well over ambient noise level. I could do mine at 55 db and get as good of response as I could at 75 or 95.

So basically you have a circuit in the pre-amp that's turning ALL your speakers down. I don't understand that at all. In YPAO, my speakers are adjusted to balance with some + and some -. I should think that any good program should attempt to attain net average 0 gain. LS - 4.5 and -5 KLF-C7 + 5.5 CW - - 1.5 and -2 THX subs 0 My prime listening is somewhat equidistant from speakers hence the .5 difference L/R.

colterphoto1, on 10 Jul 2015 - 09:38 AM, said: From what I have read, not it does not nullify the previous calibration...just don't remember where I read it. That can't possibly be correct. If you switched the front speakers, say, from Small to Large after calibration, you're now dealing with a couple of octaves of sound coming out of those speakers that weren't accounted for previously. It's like PA world - you adjust the crossover to get a basic balance between various speaker components FIRST, then eq the system, and never ever go back and touch the crossover again.

It means you can't get there.

very inexpensive rumble dampening device can be made by floating a table of dense material (a slab of granite - like a sink cutout gotten from a countertop manufacturing shop) on 4 hand/tennis balls. Some slit the balls in two, or you can sit them in furniture caster cups. This will help isolate the turntable from acoustic low frequencies. Some here house their turntables on wall mounted shelves which helps isolate the table from footfalls or floor vibrations. I always prefer an acoustic solution to an electronic one. Again, this is just one of many possible solutions to what may be myriad issues.

I set a couple of pillows on my recliner chair and perch the mic on top of those - the pillows approximate 'me' and you want as precise to your actual ear position as possible. I think behind or above the chair give a false reading. Also, if you normally watch in reclined position, make that adjustment also. In my case, without reclining the CW horns hit back of chair. Reclined, I can turn my head and see the horns, which means a direct path to ears. EDIT - post #110 I see what you're doing - that's the way! Good to hear of fellow Forum members actually picking up the phone and discussing in detail. Nice teamwork there fellas!

Haven't read this entire thread but I'm a Yamaha guy and use the simpler YPAO. Is there a way in Audissey to turn OFF the 'speaker size' selection? Auto-calibrating for relative volume levels and eq, and THEN changing anything in the crossover would nullify the previous calibration, would it not? For instance, I set my LS and KLF-C7 to SMALL, but the Cornwall rear surrounds (yeah I know) to LARGE. Then I can lock the YPAO so it does not change these parameters but works within them.

Top man!

Might check those caps - looks like one is about to rip loose of it's welds.

Thanks that's a huge help.

If anyone can readily get to the rear panel of their RC64, I need the height and width of the factory jack cup for a project. Thanks!

^ I've heard of guys inverting a styrofoam cooler and gluing to topside of drywall with PL200, weight it down a couple of days, repack insulation around it.

"I see, you hadn't expressed your thoughts toward your tenants" - John Cleese on the Monty Python architects sketch.

What d'ya mean 'too big' geesh...

My Coasters broke a handle/cable assembly after a few years of heavy use (before I started rotating the seats around). They sent a replacement to me for free, pretty easy to swap it out. A motor would be another story. I like stuff simple whenever possible.