colterphoto1

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?24770-Altec-A6-MRII594-any-good-for-hifi

ATS001637 PD60A_PD60AT Datasheet Rev C.pdfATS001637 PD60A_PD60AT Datasheet Rev C.pdf You know that the venerable Klipsch K55 is a rebadged Altas PD5VH, right? Well here's another pair of heavy duty Atlas horns, with weather guard on the back side (perhaps were used with those massive conical horns for an outdoor sports field, they came from a school system). Parts Express sells these with transformers (for long line systems) for $200 EACH. I'll let this matched set go for $100. Pickup in Indy or will ship.

2385A horn, great condition $50. Pickup in Indy or could ship. Sorry just the single, but these things are all over eBay. have one 2446J driver, but diaphragm is blown, that would be a match to this horn. I'll probably get a fresh diaphragm in it and sell separately.

Have 6 each of these, new in box. Designed for transformer systems (think installed setups - so you installers - listen up), 70/100 v lines. NEW IN BOX. These babies will handle 30 watts, so they're no rat shack toys. Got these from a surplus school sale. Bogen sells these retail $140, discounts to $110. Selling these units complete with install instructions and bracket hardware, ready to wire up for $60 each. Pickup in Indy or could ship.

DH2As2 dh2aS2-16 EDS.pdf Single, works fine, horn has been painted, could use a little TLC, but it's the lauded DH2A driver that's the real steal here. $100 for the set, one horn/driver only, white. Pickup in Indy or could ship.

F300/333 horn drivers, work great, good condition, but could use a quick spritz of battleship grey paint. As found on the famous Dixielander cabinets. With brackets, fully functional, tested and matched ohm readings. Pass this along to your Frazier loving friends, mmk? Asking $200/pair. Pickup in Indy or could ship.

MRII594A_hfhorn_spec_sheet.pdf Altec MR II 594 horns/ 908-8 drivers. Got these from a gymnasium installation, had bird cage wire around horn mouth, which has been removed and they're all very clean maybe a few marks around bolt holes. Have total of 3 pairs for sale. Some reading on these shows that they were Altec's answer to the beaminess of the old 811b/511b, which Klipsch lovers have used for years as replacements in the LaScala cabinet. Drivers are updated of older Altec 288, with a more shatter-proof diaphragm, intended for more modern rock and roll use, and with the tangerine phase plug, better yet. I'm going to keep one pair for possible use with my own A7 rebuilds, just to have something more modern to compare to my 511b horns. Think of this as Klipsch's moving from the K400 horn to K510 Jubilee horn, only in Altec brand. Asking $250/matched pair, I've taken ohm readings on them all. Pickup in Indy or could ship. MRII594A_hfhorn_spec_sheet.pdf

Looks like a clear finish on a very oddly colored bit of birch plywood.

check in with kwingylee he has a pair I sold him, they're on Indianapolis Craigslist currently. Brand new, with boxes oak, he's stained them since and put titanium crossovers in them.

Do you mean to tell me that the 8" driver is 'squoze' through a 2" throat inside that box?? Ah, reading your last post, I see that the old XII (that was a 12" correct?) was the one where they lopped off the throat, perhaps put a slot in there- I forget?

I use Klipsch THX sub system with my La Scalas.

^^ yup, that sure looks like a K604 to me too. Cabinet is not authentic. Probably makes sound, but bass not tuned to that woofer. Possibly great parts though.

HIFI Heaven. Brought home a digital multimeter today so i can check them all, put in matched pairs ( I have 10 total units, all pass audio signal), got the bird guard 1/4" hardware cloth off them and cleaned up. These are the 12x24" mantaray horns with 1.4" throat adapters and drivers COMPLETE! I have a pair of Altec A7-500 bins with horns that I'd like to make operational again. So interested in two Altec 15's and networks if those are in your store room?

K 600s - how many you need?

I have several of the K601 with drivers if you might be interested in those. Less ringing than the K600.

^ you are a sick sick man.

Forget about their roller unless you're working on a brand new surface and want your texture REALLY bumpy. I used a a trim-style 6" x 1" dia poly roller (not the foam type), and rolled 8x double 18" QRX 218 EV bins, and 8x QRX 212-75 double 12 top bins AND 8 MRX JBL monitors using only 2 gallons of Duratex by this method. Two coats each! HINT- curing is everything with this product. If you apply in cold or damp conditions, it'll take forever to dry. Like weeks. Keep your room above 65 degrees and reasonable humidity and it'll cure up fully in less than a week. I called the manufacturer before we did some cabinets last winter when PA rentals were slow and we kept the air circulating and temps up and were just fine. They said they've even heard of folks painting then storing speakers in box truck with some space around them to 'cook' the product down.

2500 was the WWR version ( company down the road in Hope, that built the pro gear for a few years), of the KP250, there is also a 2501 which I believe would have been their version of the KP250 II. Note that all these are 'rat fur covered' (black carpet), due to being constructed of flake board (OSB type, not particle board), so they would not take to veneer or paint finishes. All these WWR cabinets are recognized by 4 digit numbers, somewhat similar to their 3 digit Klipsch counterparts.

K78 is the motor only without the horn. That's what's in the HF section of the KP600 setup. Basically the TSCM is a Khorn bottom bin with back and wings, the MSM of a MCM1900 mid section, and the very HF section of the KP600 rig. 1x 15, 4x K55, 2 x K77(78) Roger TwistedCrankCammer knows more about this series than anyone else on the planet.

most horrible connectors ever for loudspeakers, engineered for low voltages only.

forte II (and it's always lower case 'f', as in the musical notation)

'jack cup' is what you're looking for. You can get suitable replacements from Parts Express ( although some cutting may be required). I have never seen an XLR terminal used for speaker input on Klipsch until now. I'd thiink that was was a user modification, were there not a diagram printed on the cup label with the 'pin outs' for that terminal. You never know what you'll find here on the FOrum! I would recommend using a Neutrik NL4 locking type connector. If you take the jack cup off and use a 15/16 flat wood bit you can create the hole to mount it.

There are a few LSI threads in the Pro/Commercial forum I posted years back about refurbishing these cabinets. I'd put new woofer door seals in there and make sure to crank down the woofer screws while you're in the doghouse (woofer bin). You can get the material from Parts Express. The speakers already have a pebble paint texture to them. WHen using the Duratex, if you want to be certain to use a LOT of material, use their roller (sarcasm). If you don't want to add a super bumpy texture, just use a short nap 6" x 1" poly roller ( the kind sold at Lowes for trim). I've coated 8 double 18 subs and 8 EV tops with one gallon of Duratex two coats, by this method. Otherwise you'll burn through a $70 gallon pretty quickly.

FYI those are the wrong tweeters, someone has changed out the K77 models for what looks to be either a Klipsch K79 or piezo unit.

That EV DC-One should serve you well. I've used them to integrate PA systems, it's a step up from the venerable DX38 used by many of us here.