colterphoto1

Yeah, but you've got to love a lady who'll pose half naked with a piglet!

(in best Elvis-impersonator voice) Thank you, thank you very kindly. Some of us really try to come up with good stuff for our buddies on the board, although I am frequently mistaken and corrected. Nice to be appreciated though.

---------------- On 7/30/2004 6:01:14 PM William F. Gil McDermott wrote: ""But going back to something like the Cornwall. When the long axis is up and down, the horn keeps most all frequencies off the floor and ceiling. Turn it so long axis is horizontal, and most all frequencies are kept off the walls. Therefore we expect some different room reflections depending on orientation. So, what is happening on the smaller axis? If you look at the horn the exit angle there may be 40 degrees or less. There is no control at low frequenies because the equation tells us that X must be very large, about 2 wavelengths and we have somewhere about 1/4 of that."" Help me out on this Gil, I'm really confused now-- Here is a quote directly from the Architects' and Engineers' Specificaitons for the Cornwall: "The high-frequency system shall comprise straight-axis horns; horns employing bends will not be acceptable due to inherent errors. The horns shall provide a coverage of 80* horizontal, 30* vertical, with less than 10 dB loss at the stated extreme angles." I've got lots of old klipsch data sheets and ad literature and almost none show any dispersion data. Am I understanding you correctly when you say that with a standard Cornwall cabinet setting upright (vertically) with a set of horizontal horns, that the dispersion pattern is vertical (up and down) "When the long axis is up and down, the horn keeps most all frequencies OFF the floor and ceiling."? I thought the old idea for stereo speakers was a wide (horizontal) dispersion pattern so the sweet spot for listening in normal rooms was wide. Please elaborate!?!??! I do understand the narrowing of horizontal dispersion for HT and THX systems, I guess the idea is to keep the directionality high so the listener can discern the source of the sound. Keeping early reflections from the floor and walls helps immeasurably in this regard as the 'Bose' and bipolar/dipolar schools blur the sound source by purposely adding reflected sounds. Nowadays this is obviously a no-no. Thanks, I do appreciate your engineering approach. Michael

IMO, here is the gist of the surround speaker debate: Bi-pole, di-pole, WDST were all great for the old dolby pro-logic where the rear channels were mono, limited bandwidth, derived (non-discrete) signals. Then it made sense to have non-localized sound-effects bouncing around the rear of the room. With Dolby Digital, et al, now we have discrete, multi-channel, full bandwidth surround channels where you are supposed to be able to LOCALIZE the sounds just like the front channels. Therefore it follows that we should abandon our old ideas of surround speakers for those more like our main speakers, in terms of bandwidth and efficiency (same RF or RB series), timbre (all Reference or all Heritage), and dispersion. So, IMO you're doing the right thing sticking with either RF or RB for surrounds.

In the words of Indy's finest blues club, the Slippery Noodle Inn, "DIS IS IT" welcome to the Forum

How much scrap do you have? I've got two Cornwalls that have been used as scratching posts.

I'll say it again here. Buy the biggest, baddest center channel speaker you can afford. Reasons: 1. hey, it's only one speaker, it's easy to spend a little more $ for quality 2. you already have massive mains, how is a smaller center speaker to keep up? my RC7 is set at about 90% to go with my Cornwalls! 3. in HT, the center (dialog) channel is everything. The tapered array in the RC7 is amazing for imaging. 4. Just buy the RC7 already. Go hard or stay home.

On 7/28/2004 11:22:54 PM gettincorny wrote: I'll definitely take a look inside. The grills don't come off so the only way is through the back. I may be mistaken, but the grills 'should' come off. There is probably 12 velcro squares holding mine on. Try a plastic picnic knife between the cabinet edge and grill and pry gently. You might want to protect the woodwork with a small cloth. I also have Cornwalls (the originals) although they are horizontal horns. Your vertical models are highly prized for HT use because they are intended to lie on their side (cabinet laying horizontally) so that the horn is now properly oriented. Lots of folks look for these for a center channel between two standard Cornwalls. Did you get a chance to read the Belgian Audio School review yet? Happy listening!

Beautifully written, explained, diagramed, and photographed. Although I do not have Klipshorns myself, I enjoyed the reading. Saved as a Favorite! Do you have schematics and parts list for an upgraded crossover for the Cornwall? Thanks Michael

We are no longer the Knights who say 'Ni', We are now the Knights who say "Icky Icky Icky Ptang Zoop Boing" Now then, I've had just about enough of this silly nonsense, GET ON WITH IT!

---------------- On 7/28/2004 9:45:19 PM paulparrot wrote: No it isn't. ---------------- Yes, it is!

---------------- On 7/28/2004 12:58:26 PM artto wrote: There is a surprising amount of ambient noise present in most homes, whether it be from things like forced air movement (HVAC), appliances like the refrigerator (normally runs 80% of the time regardless of efficiency), and even outside noise that infiltrates. Much agreed Artto, that is why I love radient (hot water baseboard) heating. It's efficient, comfortable, and mostly, QUIET. Nothing like that big blower kicking on, rumbling the house and forcing scorched air at you. If it's good enough for Bob Vila and Boston weather, it'll work in Indiana. Now, what to do about those trucks outside.HMMMM, methinks window replacement might be the trick!

There is also the ERC or Elastic Rebound Characteristic, which is the distance a component will bounce after being dropped from a height of one metre onto a marble slab.

Hello Indyboy, from another Indy guy! Apparently there's quite a few of us. When storing your speakers, please put them back in their original container to keep from abusing the cabinets. I just moved back to Indy after 8 years in the country and before that 12 years in Speedway (you others may have heard of it, we have a few races there). Anyway, I have EVERY box to EVERY component I currently own. Also, keep speakers away from storage buildings that may harbour mice. They will eat a cardboard cone in a week. When I worked for a PA company we always kept a few cats around. Mice will eat through a rubber tractor tire to get to the rope cord within- a speakers worst nightmare! Best advice is to use 'em! ALL THE TIME Rock on my friend and please go to profile and post your system as it stands so we can help you with future questions better.

I've not heard of vibration or 'leakage' problems with the wood-to-wood joinery of the Cornwall back. If a few screws are loose, you might try the old carpenter's trick of backing out the screw, inserting a toothpick in the hole and snapping it off. Then rethread the screw in the new, tightened hole. There is a modification to strengthen this largest panel in the cabinet. That is to double the thickness of the panel by adding a panel of like thickness to the inside of the back, joined by glue and screws, slightly smaller than the enclosure internal dimensions so that it does not contact the sides and vibrate. This is supposed to increase the 'slam' factor by stiffening the back and providing more support for the low frequencies inside the cabinet which exit via the port.

Hello Jon (Cornwalled) IMHO, Please check out your system with an RC7 as soon as possible. It ROCKS with the Cornwall! Others would of course suggest you stay with the Heritage line with a single center Cornwall or Heresy. That is your choice, but getting a center cabinet that can keep up with the mighty Corns is indeed a challenge!

On 7/27/2004 3:32:17 PM paulparrot wrote: Did I say otherwise? As usual, you're just arguing for the sake of arguing. This isn't an argument, it's mere the naysaying of the opposing point of view... Couldn't help the obvious Python reference- Hello Polly Parrott, I've got a nice fishy for you...

Thanks for the article, Bob. You've gotta love a company whose official documentation reads "TOO DAMN LOUD" YYYEEEEEAAAAHHHHH I love my Cornwalls!

Welcome to the Klipsch Forum and to a very interesting group of audio fanatics. I too am a Cornwall owner and am very proud of the fabulous sound I get from them and an otherwise fairly modest system. Please check out the Forum 'thread' under Modifications for a Cornwall compendium I am working on. You see, there are several structural and electronic modifications that can be made. These have been devised/tested by Forum members. For now, I agree, just open em up, notate conditions and numbers, tighten everything down and just ENJOY. You'll find that since Cornwalls use a woofer without foam surround, they rarely tear and many users report decades of use without driver failure. If you'd like some great reading on an independent test report on your Cornwalls, check out this website: http://www.belgaudio.com/kcmap.htm Some of the chapters are rather technical, but some are pure bliss. Basically, this group gives the Klipsch Cornwall an excellent review, particularly in response to efficiency, frequency response, and low, low distortion. Again, welcome!

Thanks IB, I appreciate your 'list in order of importance' as well. Looking back over some posts, did you ever rebuild your motorboard to accomodate the Altec horn, or did it necessitate a totally new cabinet? Would like to see pix if possible. That is a pretty groovy looking crossover mount you've got on the April photo of Corn with exterior horns. You're really having some fun with the mods, I see! Keep on SLAMMIN, yer right, there is NO other term for it! Michael

So then, my 74's with rear-mounted drivers and removeable back panel are definitely original Cornwall design. When I open em up, will there be any differentiating features on drivers or crossover that would indicate that I should upgrade either components or swap the entire xover out? It's my understanding that xover components can 'leak' or fade in value over time and that later designs (CWII or ALK) are simply better slopes and components. How many different levels of mods would be applicable to my Cornwalls? SHould I change out??? I have had the woofers reconed, one squawker with new diaphram and both tweeters are new units. Would like to get totally up to speed this fall/winter. Thanks gang.

Sorry Gilbert, forgot you were a charter member of the Cornlovers club. But if ya haven't read the Belgian article already, please do so at once.

Buy 'em, here's why: http://www.belgaudio.com/kcmap.htm Thank me later.

http://www.belgaudio.com/kcmap.htm You're going to LOVE it. It gives proof to many of the things we have thought for years. That Klipsch (Cornwall esp.) have incredible sensitivity, smooth response and low, low distortion. Read it and weep with joy!

oops sorry, the Cornwall mods are listed under updates and modificaitons. I've saved Al K's schematic, but you'd be better off getting advice directly from him. From my understanding though, there is no high cutoff (ie low pass) crossover on the squawker horn, it just keeps playing until it naturally rolls off.