tigerwoodKhorns

@henry4841 Quick question. When installing tubes for the first time, should I turn the bias all the way down, or maybe most of the way down) when I first install them and then adjust?

My manual says moderate gain / high gain / cathode follower I can post a more detailed answer tomorrow.

sounds about right. Move back a few feet.

Wow,what a scumbag move. Straight out thief. Something isn't right with his sales and feedback. He sold four Fisher amps and has feedback for two sets of tubes.

How far back do you sit? The K Horns will fire at 45 degrees from the corners. Will they intersect near where you sit? They are very nice and probably have the desirable AA crossovers. If someone had replaced the woofers they are easily changed back for a minimal amount as the drivers are very inexpensive compared to other brands. (not a bad thing).

Speakers that demand high current will need a big amp. I had the big B&W800s and they needed a lot of power as they had a very difficult load. I used 700 wpc (@ 4 ohms) Classe monoblocks. It was weird, as you turned up the volume they did get loud, but responded more slowly than you would think (reminded me of driving a Harley...). I switched to Palladiums and they seem to get by on way less power and respond quickly to move of the volume control. I really don't favor speakers that are difficult to drive anymore.

Mark, Thanks for the response on the Tercel. I have had both models. If I wanted to build a Merlin, how can I drive a subwoofer or two? Is there a way to add a simple SS circuit to the design to drive an SS amp or two? I am not asking for a design, just a general question.

Well yea, at $175 obo we'd have to lynch you if you complained.

Like Kramer said on Seinfeld, 'I'm cool with the bathroom...'

I have an early pair and Craig sent me the manual. If you have a different manual please send it. I like to keep this stuff in my server and when people ask post it if I have time. My way of giving back. I also got some good info from Craig if you are ever looking for this stuff: The transformer can provide up to 4 amps to the rectifier so keep this in mind when searching for a replacement if you look at other than the 5AR4. I got lucky with some vintage Mullards. VRDs can handle the KT88, KT90 and KT120, but the KT150s will pull too much current on the heater (or at least put the transformers at their edge). The 12AX7 tubes do not need to be a great / exact match to each other in this position. This really helped me match a vintage Amperex with a cheap eBay tube. I hope this helps someone.

Final tube, a Matshusita 12AT7. This has a round getter with an indentation around the edge. I assume this is a, uh, Matshusita... OK, so this is the name of the founder of Panasonic, and I assume they made tubes in Japan. Any ideas on this one?

A pair of GE tubes marked 12AT7. These have a square getter that is at 45 degrees from the plate.

Next is a '12AT7' with a big white blotch on open side. Square getter. I assumed it was a Bugle Boy with the marking smeared but I don't think it is a match.

Next up is an RCA marked 'USA' Halo getter and it does resemble the Mullards. I am guessing a Mullard?

I have some 12AT7s for my Tercel that I'd like to identify. First up is a very easy one. A Realistic 'Lifetime' with a halo getter and gold pins marked 'Brittan' Looks just like my vintage Mullards and I assume this is a Mullard.

I didn't know you could see the woofers in the La Scalas. Cough cough!!!! 🤢

here is a link https://offerup.co/HkTsgsqhnxb

@RealMarkDeneen I have another Juicy question on the Tercel if you do not mind. I am going through my tubes and found an old post to me where you stated that in the Tercel the tubes are split with one side for each channel, so matching the two tubes is not necessary. I have a pair of Mullards in the 12AT7 positions of my Tercel that I want to put in a different amp and a bunch of old singles of 12AT7s that I want to put in the Tercel. I have the original Tercel 1 now (black face plate and green metal box). Which is Tube 1, Tube 2 (middle) and Tube 3? I assume it goes front to back but I want to be sure. Thanks. Here is the post for you Tercel owners out there: Ok, so each tube contains a Right and Left channel, and the signal runs in order from V1 to V2 to V3. The importance of the tubes is in exactly that order. V1 is the input and you want to make sure that it is the lowest noise possible 12AT7. I really like the RCAs lately, but a nice Tele is cool too. V2 is the gain tube and will highly influence tone. If you like it lean and clean and detailed go for a Bugle Boy here. If you like it smooth and dreamy, go for a Tele or Mullard. V3 is just the follower and has the smallest contribution to the sonics. Any nice 12AT7 is fine. I rarely put spendy tubes in this location, but of course if money is no object..... If you want to get really fancy, get tubes where the two HALVES have been closely matched. Let me know what you end up liking!

Got it, thanks for the info. I had a feeling when the sheet said the 5AR4 is a high power and the CV593 is medium it was a no go. In the manual Craig also recommends a spare set of Sovteks or the Mullards if they are not too expensive.

Oh man the learning curve is a little steep here and I am not feeling well today. Can I get some info on the rectifiers? I have a pair of JJ 5AR4s. This is what Craig lists on his website. I found the attached info on the rectifiers. I also have a pair of CV593s which appear to be Mullards. Craig recommends Mullars in his manual but I'm not sure if these will work as he lists the 5AR4s. The 5AR4 (GZ34) are a high current rectifier and listed as OEM for the Dynaco ST-70s https://mullard.org/collections/audio-valves-gz34-5ar4-cv1377-rectifier The CV593s are a medium power rectifier. https://mullard.org/collections/audio-valves-gz32-5aq4-cv593-52ku-5v4g-5z4g-gz30-rectifier Can I use the CV593s or sell them and look for some 5AR4s? I really want to get this right and it would be a real shame to ruin these Mullards or worse yet, the amps. @henry4841@Audible Nectar

@Got_Horns I sent you a PM. Check it, you won't regret it.

Just go 1/2 or 3/4 veneered ply. They would look cool with 1.25 to 1.4" or so borders (walls)

I agree but I did run into this issue with my Fortes and Chorus speakers. I was going to go crazy bracing them and them decided not to brace at all as they might lose some bass if really braced. These are not my main speakers so I can go with their 'classic sound' rather than perfection which I have elsewhere.

Measure the cabs taking the thickness of the panels into consideration.

Use the same cabinet size (internal volume) and build something really cool looking. I am a JBL fan and have their 250tis and found some L7s. Cabinets are perfect but you know, not that stellar looking. I plan to build some custom cabs for them. I am PM'ing you on another topic.