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tigerwoodKhorns

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Everything posted by tigerwoodKhorns

  1. I finished the Forte crossovers with the caps mounted on a board. Posted pics in this thread. I will do the Chorus next.
  2. Forte II crossovers are done. I was able to mount the 1.5 uF cap on the board, the rest had to be moved. All ends are soldered, crimps are crimped, soldered and heat shrinked. The boards are meant to go in the bottom of the speaker on 1/2 spacers that I ripped from the Baltic birch scraps. I used open ended lugs on these connections to make it easier to install when reaching into the speaker. I made the boards relatively small to allow plenty of space for bracing if I go that route.
  3. OK, so I see the Mica caps that are very small values (pico-farads). What about the vintage Russian square paper in oil. Are these specially sealed or will they have a high ESR with age?
  4. I was just reading up on these recently. The square ones, correct?
  5. Always solder. The crimp connectors too. I remove the silly plastic piece, crimp, solder then heat shrink. A kit like this is helpful. https://www.amazon.com/560PCS-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-Eventronic/dp/B072PCQ2LW/ref=asc_df_B072PCQ2LW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198097502341&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3626950542201931339&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030751&hvtargid=pla-385502389148&th=1
  6. For anyone interested, here is a great video showing how to size a power transformer. The math is very simple and he does a great job of explaining.
  7. John, Slightly off topic but something that I have been thinking about in the last few days. I want to get a better VOM meter. What do you recommend? I want one for a 'clean' toolbox that I use for electronics, crossover building, etc. I am a hobbyist, so nothing too fancy (expensive). I saw some Youtube videos and they guy had a Ryobli TEC4 that looked nice. Don't know budget. I have a few throw away free meters from Harbor Freight and a Velleman dvm850bl meter (now around $30 - about $60 when I bought it) for working in dirt places, outside, landscaping etc. But at a short it shows 0.5 ohm and you turn a dial instead of an on off switch, so not the best meter. What do you recommend? I can move to a different thread if you like.
  8. That looks like the one, but I think that the OP was concerned that the RB25 post had two flat sides on the post. I'd just drill it out if the plastic mounting hole had two flat sides and tighten the replacement on. The Partexpress ones also looked about the same.
  9. I am redoing a set of x-overs and thought of this thread. Still having trouble figuring out why the stock parts are so special and worth chasing stock parts. These are really cheap and very common parts. They work so I am not replacing them, but if they were broken anything similar would work.
  10. No need to change unless you find a really good deal. The Cornwalls look like they were made for your room.
  11. You should buy reasonably priced La Scalas if you have the room. Prices are steadily rising and they are a fun store of value for your spare cash.
  12. This might have been answered but a 4 ohm measurement is likely about 5 or 6 ohms when resistance (which you measured) and impedance (which you cannot measure with DC) is added together.
  13. A delicate job, but you can get some stranded wire, remove a wire of about the same size and fix the lead if there is room to work. Just a delicate dab of solder. I also put scotch tape below and above the leads before putting the new foams on. If I ever need to remove the foams, they will pull the scotch tape off instead of the leads. Boy, no love for my crossovers on this forum.
  14. That is what I was thinking. Buy a bunch of cheap resistors to find out the attenuation, then buy four quality resistors for the final setting. You can also set where you want it and have a few spaces up or down (say 2 or 3db) with jumpers if you every want to adjust more (like the L250s)
  15. Yea, just use the calculator and buy a bunch of decent resistors. I have that link saved. My JBL L250's have plates on the back to select between three settings. I have not dug into the crossovers yet but I am pretty sure they are L Pads.
  16. I think that I paid $8 shipped for the tweeter foams (I know that you need these). I would not change the JBL crossovers to a different design. I read that they do not sound any better and in any event, I want these to sound just like they did when new, rolled off top and a hump in the bass and all. That is what they are and how I want them to sound. I kept hearing that the caps are still good in the JBLs because they are 'good for 50 years.' Well I did the math and realized that they are about due. Actually, the L pads are worn out so I figured it was time. This was actually quite a bit of work, especially figuring out a layout that fit on the dimension of the stock boards with the oversized L Pads and barrier strips. The depth of the L Pad stems was also an issue, bet easily solved by going to 1/2" wood. Luckily I had a bunch of leftover 1/2" baltic birch. If you just need caps, it should be very easy on the 4311. The L100 Century requires that you remove the foilcal. I am going to fix that problem.
  17. Here is what I just completed last night. The N100 crossovers in the JBL Century are sloppy looking to say the least. I just decided to remake them and lay everything out nice and neat.
  18. I am finally completing my Chorus II and Forte II crossovers. I will post when I do the rebuilds, hopefully this weekend. I received these badges today from the guy in Russia. They are very nice. I am looking for grill cloth, likely the Silver Luster Grill Cloth if Duracrest has it in stock. Does he have it in stock now? Can anyone point me in the direction for a set of plans to build the grill frames? I want to build a second set from scratch. I can do it but why re-invent the wheel.
  19. OEM and replace the whole crossover - jeez, you are making this very complicated. The stock parts are very cheap and you will pay top dollar to replace them with OEM. Just buy an aftermarket post, if it is too thick you can drill out the hole to make it bigger. I am putting these in a pair of JBL L100s I am restoring. They are on my table right now. Nice posts and priced well but the post is not very long. https://www.parts-express.com/Mini-Insulated-Binding-Post-2-Red-2-Black-320-3375 You might be able to take these apart and just use the poses and ends. https://www.parts-express.com/Dual-Binding-Post-1-Red-1-Black-090-475
  20. Take them apart, find what is similar and take your pick. https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-components/cabinet-hardware-speaker-grill-cloth/binding-posts
  21. Same here...at least for the last ten years or so. Wife loves the equipment and the hobby.
  22. This thread is almost six years old, but nobody mentioned that Heresys are to be placed on the floor.
  23. My questions in another post were: Same here. Duke, if that is your real name... What do you think about JBL 250s? How about the Speakerlab factory built K Horn bass bin? What you got to say about it?
  24. Nah, not him, it needs to be written like this: Just like .............old times here I couldn't warm up .....................to Sputsie Even if ......................he was on Fire......................
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