bozzchem

I don't need more output from the sub. I've cleaned up enough debris when it's connected to LFE. My thought was to ensure any <120Hz signals from either channel reaches the sub.

I really think you may have solved this. I received my R-51PM speakers today. They are for my workout room and replace "The Three" that I returned. Once they were up and running, I was even less impressed with these than with "The Three". I actually think "The Three" sounds better. IMHO, neither is worth $500... At least the R-51PM's have a sub out so I could dust off and use my KSW-15. When the sub out of the R-51PM's were connected to the LFE input of the KSW-15, it barely moved and was unimpressive. Thanks to your post, I changed from the LFE input to the standard L/R input of the sub (I tried both the L and the R). Wow!!! Night and day difference! I had to drop the level on the sub after doing so. The R-51PM's combined with the KSW-15 sound PHENOMENAL. It's deceptively loud because the music is so clear at high volume that you have to shout over it to be heard yet there is no distortion. THIS combo sounds like a Klipsch system. I'm guessing once I do the same with the R-115, I'll see the same response difference in my Living Room for listening to music. It will probably be tomorrow or Sat before I can test it but based on tonight's experiment, I believe you may well have nailed the issue. Question. Would it make a difference to buy a Y splitter so the single sub out goes into both the L and R inputs or is it OK to just go into either given that bass it typically mono? I wish I had a Y splitter to experiment with but don't.

That is a very interesting question. My Onkyo manual states the following in the Troubleshooting section: ■■The subwoofer produces no sound • When you play source material that contains no information in the LFE channel, the subwoofer produces no sound. • Make sure the speakers are configured correctly. I have the sub out of my AVR going to the LFE input of the R-115. I'm not quite sure of another way to connect them. Hopefully, I'll have some time this weekend to tinker.

I suppose I could find a CD and test that. In my mind, 2018 means that bluetooth/digital music should be readily playable by all reputable brands. If I can't play music via bluetooth and/or wifi with high fidelity, it's time to find an AVR that can. (Assuming I understood your suggestion) 🙂

Honestly, if bluetooth doesn't work for my setup, I'd rather get a new AVR. Sad, since I bought this AVR a few years back based upon its bluetooth and Atmos abilities. I prefer Denon but they didn't have an AVR with these abilities when I bought this AVR. This could well be my first and last Onkyo purchase. There is also an issue with the Onkyo for playing mp4 files from a connected USB external hard drive. It won't do it. Had that been made clear to me, I never would have purchased it to begin with.

Room: 21' x 13' AVR: Onkyo TX-NR737 Front Speakers: RP-280FA Center Speaker: RP-450CA Surrounds: RS3 Reference Surrounds (old timers) Sub: R-115 TV: Vizio M70 C3 The room is being remodeled so there is a combination of carpet and laminate flooring. Once the room is completed, there will be no carpet in the room. I have to admit that the room is a hot mess so there's not doubt that your suggestion the room is an issue could certainly be a highly contributing factor to the issues I'm having with music. My lack of understanding is how movies shake the room and music has minimal bass.

Hopefully, I'll get a chance to walk through these suggestions over the next couple of days to see if the problem can be determined. If it's the room....I'm probably screwed without knowing what I can do to fix the room. Lord knows it's tough to keep things on the walls with the R-115 while watching a movie. I have the broken glass to prove it. Why the room is good for movies and not for music is beyond my level of understanding/expertise. Thanks to all for taking the time to answer and participate. If you have any other suggestions for me to continue with my troubleshooting they too will be much appreciated. I'll keep you updated on my progress. I have a set of R-51PM on the way that I hope to connect to an old KSW-15 sub for my workout room. This will be a strictly bluetooth system and could become a topic in another forum. I tried "The Three" and it just didn't work out for what I expected. Once the new gear is in, I'll get it installed and see if switching plans was a wise move. Once you go Klipsch, there's no going back.

Movies = Fire Stick for streaming, PS4 Blu Ray for DVD Music = Bluetooth via phone/tablet

Based upon what I'm hearing, that wouldn't surprise me. Then again, based on going through all of the settings, that shouldn't be happening.

Onkyo TX-NR737

I've been through the AVR manual multiple times. As far as checking settings per input, I'm not quite sure what you mean.

Hello, When using the R-115 watching movies, the bass will literally shake things off my walls...and it's tuned down quite a bit. I probably should have went with the R-112 since at times the rumbling will drown out vocals from the front speakers and center channel. What I don't understand is why there is such a difference in bass when listening to music. When in stereo mode on my Onkyo TX-NR737, I can turn the volume damn near all the way up and the bass just doesn't seem to react like it does while watching movies. The sound is clean and distortion is practically non-existent. I'm just wondering where the bass went. I know this sub is a housewrecker for movies but it's pretty tame for music - in my house. Front speakers for stereo mode are RP-280FA, if that helps. Center channel is a RP-450CA. Obviously, I haven't set something up properly. Any tips on how to troubleshoot will be greatly appreciated.

Hello! I'm in the process of upgrading my Klipsch HT speakers. I have a RP-450CA and a set of RP-280FA on the way so need to make room for them. I haven't decided if I really need to upgrade the surrounds or the sub (KSW-15) so will cross that bridge eventually. Your input on whether it's worth doing so would be appreciated. Unfortunately, I've owned the current speakers for so long that I don't know the correct model numbers for listing them on a site to sell them. If you can assist me with determining the model of the speakers so I don't falsely advertise them, that would be great. They are as follows: Floor speakers: RF320319 Center speaker: RC341502 Surrounds: RS371602 (Just in case I do actually replace them) Thanks again!

Is there a way to get replacement grill covers for these?

The sticker on my floor standing speakers is RF320319. Can anyone tell me what model this speaker is?

The foam surround on my Promedia 2.1 sub has split and it now sounds like $hit. What is the recommended repair? I see: A foam replacement kit on Amazon for $25. A replacement sub on eBay for $35 that isn't Klipsch but supposedly works with the system. A completely new Promedia 2.1 system on eBay for $100 This sub should be available from Klipsch for $10! It isn't anything special. I don't know what it is about Klipsch subs. My KSW-15 has been a point of contention in my home theater setup but that is a completely different topic. Thanks for any suggestions.

Thanks Fish. One thing I forgot to mention is that there is a door cutout on the left sidewall. The only way I could do a sidewall mounting with both speakers being equidistant would be to place the speakers at just below ceiling height. This would equate to a mounting height at about 7 feet. Sorry I forgot to mention that. Someimes it takes responses to jog the memory. I could mount the speakers on the side wall slightly in front of the "sweet spot" and then have the full capability to mount the "rear surrounds" anywhere I want on the rear walls. Sorry again for forgetting to mention that.

OK, let's say I go with the side wall mounting. How high from the listening position would be recommended? 2ft., 3ft., ceiling height? What about rear wall mounting? I'm looking for a total solution here, if possible. I can mount the speakers any way I choose. I guess I'm looking for dimensions for mounting. i.e., directly to the left/right of the listening position, while being mounted up 3 ft. OR directly mounted at ear level, etc. I know that experimentation is the best bet, but I'd rather plan on a mounting point and just do it. What about using the Klipsch KSF-F5 surrounds for the "rear surrounds"? All they're doing is providing back fill. Is it really necessary to maintain the same surround speaker quality? Based upon the dimensions I previously listed for my room, if I mount the RS3s on the side walls, they would be about 4 - 6 feet away from the "back surrounds". I can get the KSF surrounds at a very resonable cost. Would I lose fidelity with the system by doing so? What about the RS-25 set as a "rear surround" set?

It's been awhile since I've posted here. However, I feel this is the best place to get the answers I need. Please bear with me if they have already been answered in a previous post. I couldn't find what I was looking for. OK, on to the questions. Here is a quick breakdown of my system: Fronts: Klipsch RF3II Center: Klipsch RC3II Surrounds: Klipsch RS3II Sub: Klipsch KSW-15 A/V Receiver: Denon AVR-3802 My question is concerning placement of the surrounds. I have set up my living room such that my loveseat is the "home theater" seat. The loveseat is situated directly in front of my 56" TV (10 ft. away) while my couch is situated against the left wall. Obviously, the couch isn't exactly the best spot in the room for true HT sound. I haven't mounted the RS speakers yet. Would I be better off mounting them to the rear wall behind the loveseat or to the side walls? There is approximately 3 feet of space behind the loveseat to the rear wall. Based on the listening position of the loveseat, there is approximately 4 ft. on either side of it for side wall mounting. I would prefer to mount to the rear wall but I would much more prefer to mount to the best location for true HT sound regardless of mounting location. Any strategies you can offer will be greatly appreciated. I'm also thinking of getting another set of RS surrounds and mounting to both the rear and the side. I still have two channels left on the Denon that are unused at this point. Let's say I mount the RS on the side walls. That still leaves me with what Denon calls the "back surrounds". I'd love to go with another set of the RS speakers but would also like to minimize cost. Would the cheaper Klipsch surround speakers provide me with adequate sound reproduction? I insist on my entire speaker system remaining Klipsch. I'd just like to save a penny or two. For now, I'd just like to get what I have mounted properly for a seamless HT sound. Suggestions/comments? Thanks all.

I have a KSW-15 that has less than impressive performance. Let me explain my setup and tell me if I could do something better. Receiver is a Denon AVR 3802. I have the L and R pre-amp outs for the front speakers going to the L and R line in connectors on the KSW-15. (The speaker wire outs for the front are going to RF3IIs) I also have the subwoofer out going to the LFE input on the KSW-15. It seems I get the best response from the KSW-15 when I have the front speakers set to large and the subwoofer set to LFE+Mains. What really bothers me is that I have to turn the sub amp gain all the way up to get the resonse I'm looking for. I figured a 15" powered sub would be way too much for my medium sized room so I'd only have to set the gain @ halfway. Nope. I'd rather bring my car subwoofer box with the 12" IDQs in and run it. They'll shake the rear view mirror off the car!

Nevermind. I pulled the "offending" driver out of the RC3 and saw that the negative terminal wasn't connected. Wow, it's a TOTALLY different speaker now. The same exact thing happened to me with one of my RF3 drivers - negative terminal not connected.

I have an RC3II center channel speaker. I found out today that the 6.5" speakers are wired out of phase. Why was this done? When I used a 9 volt battery across the speaker wire input, one woofer popped out and the other popped in. If they are both wired the same way, they should both pop out, like they do for the RF3II main speakers. Anyone know what gives here?