BobG2

Now if there had been a 'grid' midway between the second and third floor...

I must have been using my spd rdng technique when answering above. The SW-12 has no auto turn on/off. I WAS thinking KSW instead of SW. I apoligize. I leave both my SW-12's plugged in all the time and just turn them off when not in use. One is connected to an Adcom ACE-515 so it flips on with the rest of the gear. The infinitely adjustable phase control is very subtle indeed. That is why you won't find such a control on current models. No benefit to 99.9% of users. Even the +/- phase switch is difficult for many to adjust. Lose no sleep over this bass fans. Perhaps we should take a poll. How many systems have + vs. -? The cheater plug is needed to avoid ground loop hum. Use if your sub hums do not if it doesn't. That ground is good for safety reasons.

Lance, you must be bumming. Sorry for the trouble. You are hereby authorized to use a 1 amp fuse - Nothing Larger. If that blows, contact Trey at 800-klipsch. If you need to call, please be able to tell us if the fuse blows instantly on power up or if you can play for some period of time before it goes. Bob

Klipsch does not pack the System 6 components together, but merely suggests the combo. The fronts, center and rears were designed as a system and should not be substituted. Choosing a sub is based on how big the room, how much bass you like and how deep & loud you want it to go. Klipsch specs Maximu Output Level on their subs so you can make an intelligent choice rather than deciding based on driver diameter and power rating - specs which tell you little about how deep and how loud the sub will play.

The foot/wall bracket which is supplied with Quintet is not really intended for ceiling mounting. High on the wall pointing down is no sweat. Ceiling will cause you to take special precautions, such as cordoning off the area directly under the speakers to avoid nasty law suits.

If you EQ your system for "flat" response, you will have little bass and screeching highs. This is due to the direct/reflected near field/far field, power response deal. Flat as measured by the single position microphone measurement approach is not FLAT at all. Don't do it. On the other hand, there is something to be gained by correcting for room induced error. This is not the same as tailoring the sound to your taste - which is also fine since this is all for enjoyment. The tonal balance of the original recording is altered by your lisenting room. Usually, the room is the worst component in your system. Correcting for room induced amplitude error is not simple and if simple (graphic eq) tools are all that is available, it is best to go very gentle on the controls. Less is More (Ommmmm). With digital signal proceessing based eq, and sophisticated measurement, you can do a lot more and avoid the penalty which comes with analog eq. Digital eq is still expensive, but coming down in cost. 11th Commandment of EQ - Avoid the "smiley face" pattern.

Merely an indication of what it costs Klipsch to build that wood veneer box. Wish it were less. Woofers have different coil impedance. Can't use the same when one speaker uses a single and the other has two. Normal electrical stuff.

If your desire is to make your own, just choose an angle which points the speaker directly at your ear at listening position. Of course remember to grain orient the wood (OK that's a joke but I'm on my own time today)

If you turn KLF-C7's sideways, the dispersion pattern of the horn will be 60 degrees wide by 90 high, just backwards from that intended by Klipsch and specified by THX. Instead, wait for the new RC-7 which will allow you to rotate the horn back to 'normal' orientation when you run the speakers in a vertical position. Three of those across the front will be pretty cool as they will have other substantial performance enhancements over KLF-C7. Better drivers (especially the big compression driver in the "7" series and tapered array network. Coming soon to a (home) theater near you.

Some of the Epic series used a baffle with a vacuformed vinyl applied over the MDF material. Others were painted. If yours are the vinyl, you may try a vinyl patch material available at the nearest auto parts store. If yours are painted, you may try paint or, an easier fix can be black crayon rubbed into the nick then polished with a cloth to match the sheed of the baffle. Bob

Some of the Epic series used a baffle with a vacuformed vinyl applied over the MDF material. Others were painted. If yours are the vinyl, you may try a vinyl patch material available at the nearest auto parts store. If yours are painted, you may try paint or, an easier fix can be black crayon rubbed into the nick then polished with a cloth to match the sheed of the baffle. Bob

I use a 1/2" socket and HAND tighten using it for enhanced leverage. You can then get the binding post sufficiently tight on the spade lug and avoid spinning the binding post loose. Cheap trick.

Beware dealing with disreputable sources. You may not even have real s/n's on your purchase. That makes warranty unobtainable. Word to the wise.

Rather than spend much time discussing specs, I suggest you go to a dealer who displays the new RF-5 and RF-7 when they reach market. You can then judge the sound quality for yourself and decide if RF-5 or RF-7 are what you desire. Both will benefit from sonic upgrades over the wildly successful RF-3. I think you'll like them, but it's your ear.

All electronics make some unwanted noise of their own. This includes your amp, CD player etc. You can get some notion of the level by studying the signal to noise ratio spec for each electronic component. The noise of each device is additive, leading to an overall system s/n ratio or cumulative background noise level. Low efficiency speakers mute this somewhat while high efficiency designs reveal it. No harm is done to your speakers and you should try to forget it rather than focus on it. Play some music and try to hear it then. Can't, right? It's just the entropy of Mother Nature.