Steve Donalson

Please guys, stay positive with us. I believe with this new leadership it can help us continue to improve our products and how we operate. This can very well be the next step we need in order to further our penetration into the markets and build all of our brands. Remember..we are KLIPSCH! Audiovox knows and understands it's our passion and love for our products and what we do that lets us stand out among the others. I don't believe they have any interest in taking that away. I believe we are confident in our executive team to make the right decisions not only for the company, but those who build the company and allow it to grow and flourish. I remember Audiovox as a kid (I'm "only" 36). I know they have been around since 1965. They are doing something right to be able to last this long and to contiue to grow and prosper. Sure, change is scary. That's human nature. Sometimes change is a great thing and needed in order to take that next step forward. I think this is one of those changes not only for Klipsch, but for Audiovox, too. If/when this transaction goes through Audiovox will now be a proud owner of a high end speaker company who builds the best speakers on the market. They will also be the leadership of a team of people who not only come in to do their jobs everyday, but put their passion behind it, too. I don't think that's a bad thing. Don't worry guys, we are ok! We will continue to be ok and continue to improve! Hang in there with us, it's an exciting time!

wow...sorry guys. I don't have time to go back and try to fix why it's cropping the images and to correct the images I didn't intend to be there. Anyway..you get the jist.

Here's the Jamo set up at home...

There is no 120/220 switch on the rear panel. Unfortunately, it's not quiet that easy. In order to perform a voltage conversion the transformer must be changed. We no longer have stock of these transformers. Likely your best option would be to use a step-up/step-down transformer. Just be sure to get a transformer large enough to handle the wattage, max W is around 1200W. The label on the back is advising what fuse value to use corresponding to the voltage the unit is set up for. If 120V, a 6 amp slow blow, if a 230V the fuse value is 3 amp slow blow.

Carl, I have to admit my ignorance when it comes to tubes. My knowledge there is quite lacking, but what I do know is that tubes can't be operated without load because if driven into clipping, the output transformer can be damaged by the high voltage transients generated. At least that is my understanding.

I realize you directed this toward Trey and I'm not answering this on his behalf, but.. Yes, you are correct. However, due to the very low amount of current and the fact that solid state amps have a tolerance for this, it will not harm anything. It may add a slight amount of noise, that could be measured, it will not be audible. This is a problem with dealing with TX, not so much with speakers.

Please elaborate, I'm interested in your comments. Regarding where my childish nature comment came from, along with amps you've seen damaged by such situations. You have been telling us how wrong we are. We've ran numerous tests with these very situations and have never experienced a problem. We've also ran this past some very well known and recognized engineers in the industry, they are in complete agreement with our comments. If you have data supporting differently, we'd love to see it. We'd like to see why/how this causes a problem with solid state amps.

I didn't make any attack or pass judgement... Let me see what we can do about some curves.

Hahahaha I love all the sample #'s and assumptions. One thing you guys keep forgetting is the amount of current at higher impedance loads. It goes DOWN. So far down, that it's meaningless. You can twist, add #'s however you like, but in a real world situation, this poses no problem. Solid state amps love to run with no load, but can be damaged by a short or very low impedance load. I think you guys are confusing solidstate amps and tubes. It's true that the passive xo will present a very high impedance load into the amp for freqs below the cutoff for the hp, and above the cutoff for the lp. This is of ABSOLUTELY NO consequence, because as previously stated, solid state amps operate perfectly well with high impedance or even open circuited loads. Have you guys ever seen a solid state amp. damaged from passive bi-amping? Now, not an amp that had a problem and happened to be in a bi-amp configuration, but to be harmed from bi-amping? We haven't... and..we've no amps or speakers to passively bi-amp around here... hahaha

You are stating this is going to harm the amplifier(s). It indeed should not. Is passively bi-amping the best way to go? Perhaps not. We know and realize this. However, there are those out there who want to and don't want to deal with an active xo. It's perfectly fine to do. Will there be an audible diff? Some think so while others do not. Some like to tube the top (HF) and ss the bottom (LF). So be it. It's all about preference. But, if you don't know what you're doing with an active xo, you will end up with poor results. I see you've quoted Rod Elliot. As I stated to you, we are familiar with his work and his theory is valid, we have found in the real world, consumer applications, it does not present a problem. If you want to see what we have available for anyone to see regarding bi-amping, look in the FAQ's. http://www.klipsch.com/customerservice/faq.aspx?id=20&view=9 You are cetainly welcome to have your opinion whether passive bi-amping is the way to go or not and by alls means give your opinion and help others set up correctly with an active xo, if you know how, but please do not state that SS amps are going get fried if you passive bi-amp. It's not the typical case and I've NEVER seen it with all my dealings with Aragon and Acurus amps. In fact, none of the engineers have either on the amp/electronics side OR speaker side.

Anyone who has ever connected an amplifier to one of our speakers has done this. The LF and HF are separate circuits. The LF does not send the higher freqs it xo to the HF circuit and vice versa.

I forgot to mention, if you tear apart one of our speakers to remove the passive xo to add and active xo, you will void out the warranty! If still under warranty, of course.

Sounds like you guys need to use Acurus and/or Aragon amps! Bi-amping a speaker with passive network should not hurt the amplifier at all. There are many of us around here who have bi-amped for years with no harmful results USING passive xo. In fact, I talk to people daily that do this very thing. We have never brought an amp in for repair due to bi-amping. Unless of course a woofer shorted, xo issue, or another cause. The xo will typically cause higher impedance at the frequencies being crossed over, thus freeing the load on the amplifier, the main reason to bi-amp. Amps are affected in a negative manner when too much of a load is presented, 2ohm on an 8ohm rated amp that can't handle a 2ohm load. Over 16 ohms will hurt a SS amp? How? What amp, and why? You do realize throughout the frequency response of many speakers, including KLIPSCH, the impedance reaches much higher than 16 ohms? Why would this cause the amp to get HOTTER? It should make it run COOLER. At least according to the tests we have performed and from our own experience. Is an active xo better? ONLY if you know what you are doing, typically best left in the hands of a professional. Otherwise, it's likely you will end up with poor sound quality. To sum it up: you should experience no problems bi-amping/bi-wiring our speakers and using the passive xo. If this were truly a problem, do you think we would offer the ability?

I'm currently running a 3806 with an Aragon 2007. The processing in the 3806 is very nice. The DAC's being used are not the best of the best, but they are a higher end Burr-Brown. The noise floor is below that of a cd. In Pure Direct mode....it's hard to best it for 2 channel performance, imo. I'm running RF-7, RC-7, RS-7 and RB-25 in back along with an RSW-15. I was running a 3805 prior and added the 2007. There was quite a difference when I added the amp. So, my recommendation would be to add an outboard amp, but not necessarily right now. Use the AVR and then add the amp. Then you will be able to appreciate what a quality, high current, outboard amp can...will...do for your system. Another option would be to look at the used market. For roughly what you will pick up a 3806 for, you may be able to get an Aragon Soundstage in place of. Granted this is a pre-pro and you will need a multi-channel amp, but I think you would find it exceed the performance of just about everything listed especially in the 2 channel realm. The analog 2 channel pre-amp section in the Soundstage, and Stage One, is based off the Aurum pre-amp (one of the highest regarded analog 2 channel pre-amps produced).

Nice piece! Hmm...didn't state continuous current, though. Have any idea what the rail fuse values are?