KdAgain

Coytee, Please keep in mind what the PEQ values you are using are intended for. They were put forth by Danley to mostly flatten the FR at the MOUTH of the DTS-10. They can be a good start but should not be used as the only correction. With any sub (or low freq speaker) the room plays a huge part in the actual response at the listening position. In fact many users don't even bother with those settings. They use a calibrated mic at the LP and RTA program such as REW and develop their corrections based on those results. If you don't already have it I strongly suggest that you get REW and a calibrated mic, or some other such system. Otherwise you are 'flying blind'. Great sub, isn't it? We've had ours quite a while and it plays wonderfully with our two old Khorns. Cheers, Rod

When todays post appeared in my mail box I looked at this whole thread again. Then realized that I had not thanked you for your helpful and informative response to me. Sorry bout that, and thanks very much. Rod

Would appreciate hearing about your room treatments; in the Architectural Thread if that's more appropriate. Also curious about your aligning of the mid and tweet more to the center of the room. Thanks very much. Rod

Years ago I used E6000 to glue and seal a small nylon pipe filling in a vinyl hose. Everybody told me it couldn't be done but it worked great. I have found the Goop products to work similarly; Shoe goop, Plumbers Goop, etc. they all seem similar. Rod

Soundbound - Thanks for the link to more info on your build. JBryan - Thanks for showing what you did. I like keeping the Khorns as original as possible. And after the warnings from heli001 on possible delamination in my old bass bins not having to put fasteners in it has some appeal. Did you find the braces and the top necessary? Seems like I've seen some old threads where the false corners are free standing. Or perhaps that requires more structure such as internal 2 x 4 bracing that I believe PWK used. Love those Oris horns! Rod

Thanks for showing it. Interesting way you integrated the old bass bin. It's a little difficult to see much detail though - Do you have a thread showing more on it? Looks like you have the tweeter and squawker aimed down a bit. Do you notice much difference doing that? Rod

Thanks for your further explanation. I think I read the same thing somewhere about 48" being handy as it is a plywood sheet. So no magic calculations went in that I guess. Thanks for the link on the TSCM - interesting stuff! Rod

Thanks for showing your handywork. Your build appears to be straight across in the front, in other words not angled at all from the front plane of the bass bin. I just took a tape measure to determine how far out from the corner the sides would be and it's about 36". My understanding of true false corners is that they should be minimum of 48' from the corner. Perhaps this is why you suggest that they may perform better close to the corner. It seems to me that false corners should perform better than this approach or the enclosed backs especially with the Khorns well out from the corner, but that may not be the case. I guess there probably is no one who has built both that could comment? Any other thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, Rod

W. C. Thanks very much for your warnings on the possible delamination of the old plywood. Nothing shows on the visible edges, but that may not be at all indicitave of the hidden inner layers. This possibility certainly argues for false corners. Rod

Within a couple of months I'm going to build one or the other for our 1958 Khorns but am having trouble deciding which way to go. Aesthetically and space wise the enclosed backs are certainly the winner, but wondering what other tradeoffs there may be in the two options? In our 5.1 system we would like to have the back corners about 2 feet out from the room corners and somewhat toed in. Think I may have read that with the enclosed backs the Khorns should be closer than that. They are on the long wall in our 19' x 13' HT room. Not sure this will have an effect on the choice but I will also be converting the Khorns to 2 way active EQ with the Goldwood GM-450PB 2" CD Horns (similar to the PAudio PH-4525) with BMD-750 drivers. We have a Danley DTS-10 sub so if we lose a little bit of the low end it's not a disaster. But what I would not like to lose is the wonderful way that the Khorns load a room with sound. Any ideas would sure be appreciated. Happy New Year! Thanks, Rod

Home built Win 7 HTPC. Quad core CPU, 4 GB RAM. Previously had all media (several TB) on a Windows Home Server. Am in the process of migrating media HDDs to HTPC. JRiver MC17 Playback Software with it's Media Server enabled to share media to several other PCs. Asus Essence ST with H6 Daughter Card soundcard - analog outs straight to power amps. 5.1 Audio for playback of ripped and downloaded audio as well as video including BlueRay. Very happy with what we have. Rod

When you try Jriver MC17 you may at first find a few things confusing. It's an incredibly complex program in what it can do and for the power it has I believe thay have kept it as user friendly as possible. If you do have any difficulties you will find their forum to be very helpful and friendly - like here. I've used it for a few years, initially just for audio because of their outstanding SQ reputation. Now we have a full 5.1 Home Theater setup with it. Besides critical audio listening we use it for Movies, both DVD and BlueRay, as well as TV watching and recording. Recently replaced SageTV with it. Rod

As I mentioned in your other thread JRiver Media Center 17 has a remote control application for Android phones called Gizmo. I have no experience with it but have used MC for several years and find it to be an outstanding program for it's SQ and organizational abilities. rod

Check out JRiver Media Center 17. I believe they have something called Gizmo that allows MC to be controlled from an Android phone. They have another remote application call Tremote. I have no experience with either. I have foundJRiver to be an outstanding Media Organizer as well as an extremely high SQ player. They also have an excellent and helpful forum. Rod

If you don't mind paying about$50 "for a quality program" I strongly suggest you look at JRiver Media Center 17. Using their 'Secure' ripping mode will give you as high quality of rips as any program out there. JRMC is highly rated in the computer audiophile community. As others have suggested, do your ripping to FLAC. It's a 'Lossless' form of compression and has the ability to store a lot of metadata with the files. With MC17 you can easily make copies of the files to various MP3 qualities. But keep your originals as FLAC so if you get your computer hooked up to your playback system everything will be available in the best quality. If you have "A ton" of Cds you will also find it to be by far the best program for organizing your media. It can a times be a little difficult to learn some parts of the program but they also have an excellent & helpful forum. I started using it just for audio. We now have all our DVDs ripped to it and have switched from SageTV to it for our TV recording and playback. The program has incredible picture quality if you're into such things. They come out with a new version about once a year, and it is being constantly improved/updated throughout the year. I'm not on commision but obviously am very pleased with this program. Rod

Bose HTIB

What do you all think of using the term 'clone' for copies of Klipsch speakers? Such as a 'LaScala Clone'. Not a 'Klipsch La Scala Clone'. Or would it be better to use the Klipsch name with clone to give them some credit? Methinks this is a very fuzzy area. Rod

Check out ChaseHomeTheater.com subs. Probably the best bang for the buck out there now in really good sealed subs. They also have a very helpful forum. Suggest you put a post on it explaining your requirements and budget. Bet you wont regret it! Have fun! Rod

Well Rod, see what happens when you stay away so long... lol... LOL. Actually I have been around fairly regularly, just haven't had a need to post a photo. Rod

I gather it worked. With the upload system it won't show until you post.As for other methods, I can usually copy a jpeg pic by right-clicking on the pic to bring up the right-click menu, clicking "copy," and then going to the reply dialogue box, right-clicking, and "paste." I rarely upload pics any more. I don't think you can move it around with copy-and-paste, but you can easily click the pic to bring up handles that let you delete or resize it. Yes it did work. Just seems weird that it doesn't show until you post. And thanks for the copy/paste suggestion - I should have thought of that! Rod

Well that sure shows them! Thanks. Guess Klipsch doesn't feel it important to do the same thing with the mid horn - or they can't be bothered. And thanks also for the idea of swapping motorboards between speakers. After you wrote that it occurred to me that I could also just put them upside down within the same cabinet to reverse. Rod

Thanks Rudy, A little difficult to see how the Z bracket is working but I think I get the idea. I believe I've figured out how to do the same thing with wood. It will get the horn flush with the front of the motorboard but be removable from the rear. Then the grill will cover the whole motorboard and wrap around the sides to look like the original one. I also want to leave room for a tweeter in each one just in case I want to use one later. Since the PH4525 horn takes up almost all the vertical space available the tweeter will probably be mounted to one side and vertical. I'm trying to decide which side to put it on. My inclination would be to put it on the right side of the left speaker and vice versa for the right speaker. This would put it furthest away from any side wall reflections. Any thoughts on that? Rod

Thanks again Rudy for all your information. Looks like I'll have to get real creative to mount it behid the grill and not have it too far back in the top hat. When I get my MiniDSP for Active Crossover and EQ I'll do some experimenting before making anything final. I really am curious if mounting behind the motorboard has any detrimental affects. Surprised Klipsch woull do it if it's an issue, but they are in business to make money and have to keep things as simple as they can. Hope you are having a great weekend! Rod

Thanks for the helpful photos and descriptions Rudy. Brings up more questions. 1. When you put the grill on the Khorn did you just tack (or staple?) it across the front? Seems that the horns being front mounted would bulget the cloth out. 2. Did you wrap the cloth around the sides? 3. How would you remove a horn if you wanted to? 4. I'm wondering if the newer Khorns mount the horns from the rear of the motorboard. Then at least they could be removed. 5. If 4 above is true does the rear mounting have any negative affects on the SQ? Enough for now! Thanks, Rod On edit and after rereading your post perhaps even on the Khorn you did not cover the horn with cloth. If so I still wonder how the new Khorns do it? Rod

Hi Rudy, I was hoping you would chime in here. Thanks! Good to know about the new grills being a solid piece of wood. As tight as the 4525s sit in the tophat there wont be much wood left top and bottom though. For our LS clone I'm making a separate top hat that is similar to the Khorn top hats. We want a grill on it and hope to have it be much like the Khorn grill. Hope you can find some photos of how you did these horns and grills in your Khorns. Thanks again, Rod