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  1. Hi Gurus, Am new to the forum and trying to put a new system together to replace one the kids helped themselves to :-). Purchased KLIPSCH Speakers as follows Fronts 2- RF-7III , Center 1-RC-64III, Rears 2-R250S, Bass- 1-R112SW ( will add another base and or surrounds matching if needed and have second area by the pool to play simple outdoor AV and music so two zones.) Looking for suggestions on what I should use to drive these, room is 45x60 ft open area kitchen, living breakfast nook. Read on-line that I should get the speakers I want and then look for suggestions for how to drive them and thats where the choices started to make less sense. Appreciate the help and suggestions. Thank you.
  2. So all this week i've been trying to find out about under powering speakers. There is a ton of info about over powering speakers but not much on the dangers or issues of under WATTing, <-- not a real word, speakers. I bought a pair of R-14Ms that fit well within my system specifications. I want to buy a pair of R-15Ms but the RMS is higher than the RMS of my AVR. Will it be OK or should I avoid purchasing these speakers and buy another set of R-14Ms? Here are the details: Small/Medium Room DENON AVR-S730H 75w - 165w MAX Klipsch R-15M 85w - 340w MAX If I can get a clear answer from a couple of you fellow Audiologists it will clear up questions about additional speakers I plan on purchasing. Thank you in advance!
  3. Little bit more along the lines of pro gear but still very useable in this world with some of the setups i've seen! 🙂 10x units available @ $400 each per unit starting price. Reasonable offers for larger qty purchase welcome. Amplifiers from previous large entertainment complex install. All functioning upon last power cycle. Some rack rash and use wear on units but otherwise fully functional. Refer to pictures for general idea. Local pickup preferred in 32808 or buyer pays for shipping. Can ship freight if large QTY is bought. These are up on Ebay as well should you prefer to go through there --> https://www.ebay.com/itm/183318898263?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 Some basic specs below, full specs here --> http://www.l-acoustics.com/36-archives.html Power 16 ohms: 2 x 500W RMS Power 8 ohms: 2 x 1100W RMS Power 4 ohms: 2 x 1450W RMS Power 2 ohms: 2 x 1650W RMS Power Bridge 16 ohms 1 x 2000W RMS Power Bridge 8 ohms 1 x 2900W RMS Power Bridge 4 ohms 1 x 3300W RMS Input Sensitivity: 20dB, 23dB, 26dB, 29dB, 32dB, 35dB, 38dB, 41dB Frequency response: 20Hz to 20KHz Signal / noise ratio: <110dB
  4. I currently have an Integra DTR 50.4 that is powering a pair of Palladium 17B bookshelves and a Palladium 27C center (my sub is in flux and I don't have rears at the moment). My primary use for my setup is TV and movies (95%) and then audio (streaming from pc, spotify, or phono). My audio guy is strongly in the camp that the Integra is not fully showcasing the speakers as well as some other receivers could. He's suggesting either the NAD T787 with the newest HDMI MDC installed or an Audio Control AVR-7 or AVR-9. These receivers are definitely a step up in audio quality from the Integra I currently have, but I'm concerned that they don't focus as much on video and thus I might run into problems (looking at forum posts, people complain of HDMI handshake issues and ARC issues). He is also trying to persuade me to stay away from some Asian manufacturers (Marantz, Denon, Onkyo/Integra, Yamaha, Pioneer) as he claims the audio will not be as warm. I don't have a ton of data points to work with from personal experience. If anyone here has insights on a suitable sounding AV receiver that will mostly be handling video and dialogue over stereo sound, I would be greatful for your input.
  5. FOR SALE: Pioneer SA-9500 Integrated Amplifier $1325 $1225 $1100 Completely restored by Paul Hovenga of Many Moons Audio (@paul79) in January 2017. I can deliver it to the Pilgrimage in Hope in May. Specs here: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/pioneer/sa-9500.shtml
  6. Hello, I'm selling a beautiful pair of Mcintosh MC30's to free up audio budget money. These have been professionally electrically restored by a local reputable tech. All new film and electrolytic caps; out of spec resistors were replaced. I've been running them with my Cornwall 3's and they are a magnificent pairing. Serial #'s are 18584 and 19875. These were built back in 1959 or thereabouts; cosmetically they're all original. See photos, cosmetically I'd conservatively rate them 5/10 for some minor (not deep) pitting in the chrome and other minor scratches in the powder coat. Some elbow grease and a bottle of brasso goes a long way and they shine and sparkle from a couple feet away. I'll post more pictures (including the guts) tonight when I get home. It turns out i need to resize all my pictures, they're all almost 2mbs. Everyone has their favorite tubes and I have extra NOS tube sets that can be included in the sale for a reasonable price. I'm a new member on this forum and have no posts or feedback. My handle on ebay is barleybluebee and audiogon is boodledude; both show a long history of only positive feedback. I haven't listed these on the other sites yet but plan on doing so this week when time permits. I much prefer meeting in person since these would need wood crates to ship. I live in New Hampshire and can deliver within about 250 miles. I'd consider shipping at the buyer's cost, crated and insured. Probably a couple hundred bucks. I bought these a couple of years ago from a local seller for $2800. I've put about $1000 in parts and labor in these to restore the electronics professionally. I played around with swapping out different caps and the orange drops are the best sounding. I have some extra parts including some extra caps and resistors along with a pair of tagboards in case you ever want to rebuild the circuit from scratch. I'm looking to get $3000 for the pair including the current tubes that are installed. Spare parts will be included; additional tube sets are extra $$. Tubes all have very low hours and are all NOS except the 12AX7's which are Prima Luna brand from Upscale Audio.
  7. Hi there, currently looking for an amplifier (integrated or separate) for my RF-82 II's. After some time searching i have found the integrated Yamaha A-S801 or separate Emotiva BasX PT-100 and BasX A-300 that both seems like a good match. Any opinions on these, or any other amps that would be a good match in the same price range? Both are around 1200$ in my country.
  8. SOLD SOLD I have a very nice 3 channel Acurus amplifier for sale. Since I bought it here I thought I'd see if there were any interest in this fine amp. I bought it in July 2016 and it's been in continuous service until recently. I bought a Yamaha A-S1000 a few weeks ago so the Acurus is no longer needed. I almost hate to sell it - they don't come up for sale very often. I'm willing to ship to Canada but be forewarned that shipping from the US to Canada is getting very expensive. But if you simply must have this amp I'll send you an inflated shipping charge and will refund any of that chunk of money that doesn't go to shipping. I'm not trying to make money on shipping - just being pragmatic. I've been srcooed (SIC!) on shipping to Ca. twice. It won't happen a third time. I'm looking to get $325 shipped to CONUS addresses. Thanks for looking!
  9. Looking into Emotiva XPA-3, it puts out 275 RMS. My RF-7II’s are 250W RMS, and the center channel I’m getting is 200W RMS. Will the 275 hurt the 200 RMS center channel? Not worried about the RF-7’s
  10. Hi all. I originally had a sound system design as attached, but I found it very hard to satisfy. Looked into Sonos, Marantz, Yamaha, amplifiers etc. I'm not so knowledgable about all this, just want to get a decent sound setup for my home and yoga center, which Zone 1 also doubles as a sitting room outside of class time. During yoga Zone 2 or Zone 1 & 2 will play the music for the class from a iPod line in. Outside of class I will use Zone 1 for playing vinyl on another line in to the amplifier. My house will be a small log house in Japan, each zone is 15m2. I have abandoned the idea of a Zone 3 in place of a Klipsch Capitol One for bluetooth or line in from laptop, or phone. http://www.klipsch.com/products/the-capitol-one Unless someone has better idea there. My main question is what amplifier is best with 4 x Klipsch R14Ms http://www.klipsch.com/products/reference-bookshelf-speakers? What about a Pioneer A-30, I've heard Pioneer are good with Klipsch? http://www.pioneer-audiovisual.eu/eu/def/products/30 Thanks a lot in advance. Paul
  11. Hey fellow Klipsch enthusiasts. It has been awhile since my last post. I bought this amplifier to add to my Cambridge Audio 551r which I no longer own. Original box included. 3 month old amp. Full transferable warranty ( 5 years left) http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/5000.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuI-qjpLx2AIVh4vICh1SGQMVEAQYASABEgI21vD_BwE
  12. Anthem D2v 3D Preamp/Processor 3,700$ Excellent Condition Anthem D2V 3D. Comes with everything including ARC Room Correction Microphone and Software. This Pre-Amp with Anthem's ARC room correction is the best sounding pre-amp currently available. Design: 7.1 Surround Sound Processor (SSP, Pre-Pro) Codecs: Dolby Digital, Dolby Digital EX, Dolby Digital Plus, Dolby TrueHD, DTS, DTS-ES (Discrete, Matrix), DTS 96/24, DTS-HD Master Audio, DTS-HD High-Resolution Audio Dynamic Range Control: Dolby Volume DACs: AKM AK4395 24-Bit/192kHz Delta-Sigma DSP: Two Dual-Core processors 3-Zone Operation Video Connections: HDMI 1.4a (4 in, 1 out) , HDMI 1.3c (4 in, 1 out), Component ( 4 in, 2 out), S-Video (7 in, 1 out), Composite (7 in, 1 out) Audio Connections: HDMI (8 in), Stereo Inputs (7 RCA in, 1 XLR in), Optical (3 in, 1 out), Coaxial Digital (7 in), AES/EBU (1 XLR), 5.1 Multi-channel (1 in), Pre-amp out (7.1 RCA and XLR) Other Connections: 12V Triggers (3 out), RS-232, IR (3 in, 2 out), 2nd Zone (Stereo Audio, S-Video, Component, Composite), 3rd Zone (Stereo Audio, Composite), Headphone Jack (1/4”) Dimensions: 6.25? H x 17? W x 15.38? D Weight: 27 Pounds(unpacked) Shipping weight: 40.00 (lbs) johnroy051@gmail.com
  13. HK 990 Harman Kardon Integrated Amplifier for sale 220-240 50hz Amazingly powerful amplifier. Note: *****This unit is 220-240 50hz***** Some of the Features: 150wpc, benched about 190wpc Dual mono HT Bypass dual sub outs EzsetEq room correction L/R preouts XLR Balanced/unbalanced All available digital connections HK HRS link for optimal connection with HD990 cd player I can't say enough about this amplifier $1050 shipped double boxed in the US. If outside US I will have to quote a shipping cost. Local pick up will be discounted price, will meet within 45 mile radius of 60585, Plainfield IL I have not used this to it's full potential. Here is what I have used/tested on the unit: Speaker 1 Unbalanced analog All digital connections inputs including HRS link EZSETEQ Basic functions balance/tone controls. I have no reason to think any other feature on this amp doesn't function. Included in sale is remote, ezseteq mic, HK BTA Bluetooth adapter, 220-240 50hz power cable, and manual Happy to answer any questions. I have about 30 pics of this inside and out upon request. Overall condition 8/10, very nice IMO If interested I will spell out imperfections, most are not even noticeable from 3' away.https://www.stereophile.com/content/...ated-amplifierhttps://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews/...gement-part-i/
  14. For sale is this fully serviced pair of McIntosh MC30 mono block amplifiers, widely considered to be among the best tube amplifiers ever made. The amps were thoroughly serviced by a superb vintage tube tech about six months ago. The amps have been brought fully into spec and up to date for safe operation. The amps were also fully re-tubed using carefully selected new old stock tubes (an expensive undertaking). They operate perfectly and sound fantastic. I thought I'd never sell them, but I need to downsize. The amps come with two sets of output tubes: NOS GE 6L6 metal-case tubes (the same type McIntosh initially included with them) and new production Tung-Sol 7581A's, which are really nice tubes. Both sets have less than 20 hours of use on them, so you will be set for tubes for many years to come. The amps are in above-average cosmetic shape, showing some slight pitting in the chrome, which is typical of McIntosh amps of this vintage. For this plug-and-play pair of awesome MC30s, I'm asking $2600. In located in Northern Virginia and would prefer a local sale, but I'm willing to ship if necessary.
  15. For sale is this fully serviced pair of McIntosh MC30 mono block amplifiers, widely considered to be among the best tube amplifiers ever made. The amps were thoroughly serviced by a superb vintage tube tech about six months ago. The amps have been brought fully into spec and up to date for safe operation. The amps were also fully re-tubed using carefully selected new old stock tubes (an expensive undertaking). They operate perfectly and sound fantastic. I thought I'd never sell them, but I need to downsize. The amps come with two sets of output tubes: NOS GE 6L6 metal-case tubes (the same type McIntosh initially included with them) and new production Tung-Sol 7581A's, which are really nice tubes. Both sets have less than 20 hours of use on them, so you will be set for tubes for many years to come. The amps are in above-average cosmetic shape, showing some slight pitting in the chrome, which is typical of McIntosh amps of this vintage. For this plug-and-play pair of awesome MC30s, I'm asking $2600.
  16. Hello! I've recently purchased the 'Klipsch The One' and now I'm trying to figure out how to connect it to an old 70s receiver (pioneer sx750). Since speakers can just be connected to my receiver with stripped cables, and "The One' has just a mini-jack port, I'm wondering how would be the best way to plug it. Please see attachment. Hope you can help me out! Thanks!
  17. Selling my Parasound A21. It is in Mint condition. I bought it new alittle over a year ago from an authorized dealer. It went from its box to my rack and hasn't moved. It's a fantastic sounding amplifier. I am only selling because I bought JC-1 Monoblocks. I have all original packaging. $1750. Location: South Portland Maine. Mike.
  18. Item: Bottlehead Stereomour SET amp w/ impedance switch kit Price: $750 + shipping SOLD Location: Franklin, PA 16323 Payment: PayPal (FF or +3%) Trades: High quality preamp to mate with Jeff Rowland Model 112 I bought this not long ago, but my system has taken a turn in a different direction (non SET friendly speakers). I got a great deal on this setup, and I'd like to pass that same deal on to someone else. The tubes alone are a nearly $600 value! The Stereomour looks great and sounds even better. It puts out ~3.5 wpc which is enough for my old Tekton Lores in a medium/large size room. Match it with a preamp with a little gain (I happen to have one of those too, if you're interested) and you'll have plenty of volume. There are a couple dings in the top of the walnut base. See photos. The JJ's are a little loose in the socket, but the other tubes are nice and snug. Here's what's included: Stereomour amp w/ impedance switch kit and furniture quality walnut base 10 different new and NOS driver tubes ($10-$15/ea) JJ 2A3-40 output tubes ($260 new) Electro Harmonix 2A3 Gold output tubes ($130 new) Sovtek 2A3 output tubes ($100 new) Shorting plugs for setting hum pots Additional walnut base w/ Bottlehead logo Bottlehead Stereomour amp and Tekton Lore speakers by Audio Database, on Flickr Stereomour and JJ 2A3-40&#x27;s by Audio Database, on Flickr Bottlehead Stereomour and Custom 12sn7 Preamp by Audio Database, on Flickr IMG_20170805_081103 by Audio Database, on Flickr IMG_20170805_081113 by Audio Database, on Flickr IMG_20170721_170801 by Audio Database, on Flickr IMG_20170721_170832 by Audio Database, on Flickr IMG_20170721_170840 by Audio Database, on Flickr IMG_20170721_170902 by Audio Database, on Flickr IMG_20170721_170918 by Audio Database, on Flickr IMG_20170721_170929 by Audio Database, on Flickr
  19. I'm a newbie, going to pickup 70's La Scalas this weekend, and I have no idea where to start with amps. The La Scalas will be in the basement (18' x 13' x 7'), and I'll be about 15' from them in my sitting area (they have to go in the short ends of the room rectangle due to built in shelving along the long wall). I recently purchased Cornwalls, and have an SG Jolida tube amp that I really like. Any recommendations on pairing the right amp/tube amp with the La Scalas?
  20. Hi everyone, So my friend who is moving overseas has gifted me his old Klipsch floor standing RF - 35's after years of making fun of my Yamaha HS5's.... While this might be basic knowledge on these forums, this is the first time that I have owned passive speakers so I literally have no idea what I'm looking for in an amplifier. The speakers will be used solely to play vinyl records off of 2 X Technic SL1200 record players that are already hooked up to a Pioneer DJM400 mixer (I believe this acts as a preamp?) in my living room. Friends have been telling me that i should invest in a valve/tube amplifier as it will best bring out that vinyl sound - whilst other people have been telling me I should go solid state as it will be more affordable and it will help bring out the bass in the RF35's which can sound too bright(?). Any advice, guidance, recommendations from some seasoned audio/klipsch veterans would be genuinely appreciated and welcomed :).
  21. I have recently bought the Klipsch Home Theater RP-F280 system. I am planning to drive them using a Yamaha RX-V781. The speakers are 8 ohms and rated at 150w RMS/600w Peak while the Yamaha Amp delivers 95w RMS at 8ohms. Is it a good match? 95% of people told me it's ok but then came along a connoisseur and said that having a lot of head room will blow a tweeter or two at high volumes as the amp will struggle and send clipped wave forms that can damage or will probably damage my speakers. I really need some expert advise Thanks
  22. UPDATE: I've moved to the Chicago area, Lombard, IL. Price drop to $1,800 plus shipping. Thanks! Time to sell some extra gear, and I'm starting with my Anthem Statement P2. No issues to report, only one small scratch on the side of the amp, as you can see in the photos. I have an original box, albeit not THE original box. I'd like to make this available locally first, but I would consider shipping at buyers expense. Local is 54701, which is about an hour and change east from Minneapolis. Asking $2000. http://www.anthemav.com/products-current/model=p2/page=specs
  23. I'm trying to build a Instrumentation amplifier that would do a 10uV -> 10mVamplification. The motivation is to measure uA currents on a small enough shunt resistor (1-10Ohm). For a proof of concept, I've built a circuit like the one below(png1.)with a distinction that I'm powering it with two 9V batteries and am using LM2902N as the op amps and Rg is somewhat different. It has much less that the required 1000x gain. However, when measuring the results for different input voltages, the gain seems to vary: png2. I was expecting it to be constant. · What is a reasonable place to look for the causes of the variations? · Cheap resistors? · Inadequate op amp? · Breadboard prototyping? · 2x9V batteries as power supply? · other?
  24. Hi, I'm thinking of buying a pair of Reference II R-28F. Would the Onkyo TX8150 be a good match for these speakers? I'm not interested in 5.1 or anything like that. And what exactly is underpowering? Do I run a risk if I would use speakers at a low volume? Thank you very much! Best regards, Ikon.
  25. Hi gang, I was going to set this amp up in my daughter's bedroom but she really doesn't have much interest in it so I am going to sell it instead. I would rather see it go to a new home than sit in a box.UPA-200 - Brand new never opened. I have opened the outside double box but never the inside box so it is still factory sealed. $300 shipped with insurance to the CONUS. I prefer Paypal gift but may be able to work with you. I have bought and sold plenty here in the forum so you can feel confident in this transaction. Private Message me if you need anything!Thanks, TimFeaturesA true audiophile-quality stereo amplifier.Advanced engineering with SMD gain blocks.Wideband, short signal path, class A/B design topology.Top quality parts and construction.Real power easily drives complex loads.Heavy-duty power supply with oversized toroidal transformer.Gold plated five way binding post speaker terminals.Gold plated RCA input terminals.Classic Emotiva styling with rugged solid steel chassis.15mm solid milled aluminum faceplate.Channel status LED’s. (which can be disabled in stealth mode).Remote trigger input and output.115 VAC or 230 VAC with automatic detection and switching.Full protection from all common input and output fault conditions.SpecificationsTopology: Fully discrete, dual differential, high current, short signal path Class A/B.Number of Channels: 2Power Output (rated power; THD < 0.05%): 125 watts / channel (8 ohms; all channels driven).200 watts / channel (4 ohms; all channels driven).Rated Power Bandwidth (at rated power; 8 Ohm load): 10 Hz to 20 kHz + / - 0.1 dB.Minimum Recommended Load Impedance: 4 ohms (which equals one 4 ohm load or two paralleled 8 ohm loads per channel).Frequency Response: 5 Hz to 80 kHz + 0 / - 2 dB.THD + N: < 0.03%Signal to Noise Ratio (8 Ohm load): > 92 dB at 1 watt (A-weighted).> 106 dB at rated power (A-weighted).Damping Factor (8 Ohm load): > 500Speaker Output Connections: Full-sized 5-way binding posts; one pair per channel x 2.Power Supply: 350 VA high current ultra-low noise toroidal power transformer.40,000 uF of storage capacitance.Input sensitivity (for rated power; 8 Ohm load): 1.1 V (for full output; 8 ohms).Gain: 29 dBInput Connections: Unbalanced (RCA); one per channel.Input Impedance: 47 kOhmsTrigger: Trigger Input: 5 - 20 V (AC or DC); < 10 mA input current required.Trigger Output: 12 VDC; can drive any load up to 50 mA.Power Requirements: 115 VAC or 230 VAC +/- 10% @ 50 / 60 Hz (automatically detected and switched).Front Panel Controls and Indicators: Standby; push button (changes color to indicate Standby or On).Status LEDs (one per channel); illuminate blue for normal operation or red to indicate a fault (may be disabled by rear panel Status LED switch).
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