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  1. 3-Way crossover/balancing network for Klipsch LaScala, Belle Klipsch or Klipschorn. Can be configured for either 4500 or 6000 hz crossover to the tweeter. NOTE: USE OF STANDARD K-77 TWEETERS CROSSED OVER at 4500 hz IS NOT RECOMMENDED. DAMAGE TO THE TWEETER MAY OCCUR. Very good condition. Very limited use. $179. Price includes shipping. Shipping within Continental US only. Also available for local pickup in the Washington, DC Metro area. Cash only. https://critesspeakers.com/crossovers.html https://critesspeakers.com/bk-sound-type-a4500-crossov.html 1) 400/4500 Each of the Red and Black wires marked “1,2,3 and 4” are connected via the Male and Female quick connect ends 2) 400/6000 Disconnect the Red and Black wires marked “1,2,3 and 4”. Connect 3 Red and 4 Red.
  2. Crossover images for those wishing to complete the circuit documentation.
  3. Have had a crossover project in the works since I became the owner of the La Scalas That project was to make the ( originally two piece ) gentle slope exposed crossover fit into a single board design that will be exposed to view & showcase the crossover and have easy access to the Autoformer attenuating section for db adjustments as required I am more versed in Mechanical Engineering so I have employed an associate to build the crossovers for me for a small cost and the offer of a listen on the system when it's all connected up The Crossover design is loosely based on the ALK gentle slope type AP12-500 & AP12-6000 configurations As all the drivers in my speakers are not standard - some changes needed to be made The original design of these crossovers was - as a two piece system as that fits the Klipsch Heritage range We put our thinking caps on and have come to a design agreement and tweak for a single board based on Troels Gravasens observations as we have plenty of available board space We have designed this build as a single board - all coil distances are to Troels recommendations The layout design was made maximise neatness and avoid component interaction. We did not forget that the attenuators being transformers also need to be treated as inductors for spacing issues. Soon after we simplified the connectivity of all three driver sections on the crossover alleviating many connection points, and a new schematic was drawn up (I won't post the schematic as ALK the designer has removed them from the web site due to plagiarism) This crossover still has the separate mid range and tweeter attenuation features for fine tuning First we did a basic layout of the components on the floor with the view to tweak as needed for best performance and fit A close up of the tweeter attenuator - This component will allow me to tweak db volume to suit speaker placement and room size The coils for the Bass and Mid sections are hand wound and weigh over 3 pounds US -approx 1.5 kg each We chose and used a good speaker colour match plywood board - and started the component fit You will see a set of wire cutters and the tape measure @ 500mm to judge scale The crossovers are finished - my associate has done a fantastic job and has emailed me a couple of photos of the finished crossovers For all soldered connections Mundorf Silver/Gold solder was used I chose to use a Duelund resistor to service the Bass & Mid range Top side layout Underside Will apply finishing touches in the form of - 1) A frame that will incorporate in the design grab points for easy lifting 2) When funds allow I will have a perspex cover made for dust protection ( like a TT cover ) 3) Labels for connection identification points 4) A Klipsch logo or badge to each board as a finishing touch
  4. I just bought two Klipsch F-28 floor speakers. I am having a hard time figuring out the best setup as far as settings and crossover. 1) Set the speakers to small or large ? 2) If set to small what crossover is good to ensure I still get great sound from the speakers and deep bass from the sub? 3) My Sub has a r and L input and a LFE input - currently I have it from the receiver sub out into the subs LFE. 3) Does the sub always receiver a signal even if the front speakers are set to large. Meaning, I thought that the cross over setting just filters out the signals for the speakers it is set for and doesn't actually send the filtered signals to the sub-woofer, the sub-woofer is its own channel and signals will be sent to the sub no matter what the cross over for the speakers are set. By setting a speakers crossover you are just saying cut these frequencies out – not cut them out and send them to the sub instead (Is that right?) I have: · Receiver: Sony STR-dn1050 · Front R/L Klipsch f-28 (maybe I need a better model with a separate mid-range driver) · Center: Mirage OMD-C1 · L/R surround: Mirage Nanosat (I want to get new Klipsch surrounds once I figure this out) · Subwoofer: Infinity PSW310 10in Thanks!
  5. I'm looking to revamp my modified K-Horns with new crossovers, and was wondering if anyone has tried Al's economy crossover? It looks like everything I need (squawker and tweeter attenuation). Just wondering if it would be appropriate to use with the non stock drivers in my system? I am currently running Crites cast woofers, Selenium D405 mid and Selenium T220 tweeters on custom made tractrix wood horns. My current crossovers are universal type 400/4500 crossovers. I want to go back to 400/6000 crossover points because I'm changing my listening room to a smaller footprint and will be more of a close range listening environment. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  6. I'm selling my barely used B2 crossovers by Aletheia Audio. I installed them mid August (sounded wonderful) and then bought khorns 3 weeks later. Maybe 20 hours on them max. Built with Jensen, Dayton, and paper in oil. See pics. There are holes in the mounting board as I did install them. Asking $585 plus shipping (net to me if using PayPal).
  7. I just purchased the speakers mentioned in the title for a home theater setup. I will be using it mainly for movies/games and have a pioneer elite VSX-LX302 receiver. i ran through the MCACC calibration and it set my front R-26F to large and others to small with 100Hz crossover. It seems a little heavy on the bass with this setting and thought I would change the R-26F to small but I can only set one crossover setting for all speakers. If I keep it at 100Hz, is it even worth having the floor standing R-26F speakers? Or would I have been better suited with bookshelf speakers? Any help with crossover or bass knob settings would be greatly appreciated! R-26F = 38Hz - 24kHz R-25C = 82Hz - 24kHz R-14S = 83Hz - 24kHz R-12SW = 29Hz - 120Hz
  8. I recently hit the jackpot on craigslist and scored a complete system for just $299. The insane part is when you hear what the main speakers are. Mains: RF-7 Center: RC-3 Sub: KSW-12 Surrounds: RS-3. Receiver: Yamaha RX-V2400 EVERYTHING TOGETHER for only $299!!!!! And they're in good shape. He just wanted them out of there. Or his wife did. I already sold the sub and the receiver so I'm almost down to $0 for the RF-7s!!!!!!!!!!! Now, to see if I can upgrade the crossovers on the RF-7's. I tried to call Dean using the number and email listed on his facebook page but the number didn't work so I shot him an email and message but haven't heard back yet. Is he still doing crossovers? Or are there details and instructions somewhere so I can buy the parts and do it myself? Thanks!
  9. My Audyssey microphone was DOA and I've been patiently awaiting it's replacement. I figure I can go the manual route for now. My setup is as follows and I was hoping you guys could help me with some of the finer details in terms of the crossovers, large/ small, +-db settings etc.., just to get a guy started. -Denon 4300H Receiver -Klipsch R-26 towers (x2) for my L & R (and currently setup as center) -Future state-Klipsch R-15M bookshelf (single) for center once we get our console table in place under the TV . Side Note- would it be blasphemous to have it on its side laying down to save on height? -Bose 161 (x2) for surrounds (hung on basement soffit ~6.5ft from floor nearly directly to the left/right of seating position) -Monoprice Caliber Series 8" ceiling speakers (x2) -Klipsch R-10SW Subwoofer (10") (x1) The main seating position is about 12ft from the towers and the sub, 7ft from the surrounds and 7ft from the heights. 12AWG connecting it all in wall. I’m setting this up as a 5.1.2 Atmos setup for movies and some gaming. Any advice is welcome. I’m a pretty technical individual, but not so much in the audio realm. So I can follow instructions, but coming up with the finer points myself will be a learning process. Thanks folks!
  10. Hi All. This thread relates to whether or not a rule of thumb can be established for safely lowering crossover frequencies by increasing crossover slope and/or reducing the wattage specification of HF compression drivers. I am currently stuck in a never ending search for a reasonably priced 1" throat compression driver that can be crossed over at 500 HZ, in a two way speaker system. I have another thread in these forums that has progressed to the point where I have a few general questions about HF compression drivers and their crossover specifications. I think that answers to these questions would be beneficial to anyone who finds themselves in a similar situation as myself. The following are my questions: 1. If a compression driver is specified as having a cross over at, for example, 1000 HZ @ 12 DB/octave @ 100 Watts, what would be an acceptable crossover frequency at 24 DB/octave? 2. If this same compression driver is operated at, for example, 50 Watts maximum, would a 500 HZ @ 12 DB/octave be okay to protect the driver from damage? If not, what might be a more acceptable safe wattage at this particular crossover frequency and slope? 3. If, like myself, you use DIY SET tube amps of between 2 and 8 watts, and have no intention of ever exceeding 25 Watts (I have a DIY Aleph J in the works), what does the specification of 1000 HZ @ 12 DB @ 100 Watts mean to my choice of a 500 HZ crossover point at 2 Watts maximum, 8 Watts maximum, and 25 Watts maximum? I am not sure what percentage of the wattage available in my amps will actually go to the HF compression drivers, but I would imagine that most would go to the bass bin. There are some manufacturer's spec sheets that give a clue to what the answers might be, as is the case in the following two Radian spec sheets, but it seems that Radian is the exception when it comes to showing this specification. Also, there is not a consistent change with respect to the rate of change in the crossover specifications for these two drivers. For example, the specification sheet for the Radian 651PB/760PB/850PB shows 1200 HZ @ 12 DB and 500 HZ @ 24 DB at 50/60/75 Watts respectively, while the 450PB/465PB/475PB sheet shows 1200 HZ @ 12 DB and 800 HZ @ 24 DB at 25/35/35 Watts respectively. http://www.usspeaker.com/radian 760pb-1.htm https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/manufacturer-specifications-44920.pdf At the moment I am at the beginning of putting together a two way speaker system with Peavey FH-1 as bass bins (they were delivered earlier today), and Altec 511B as a HF horn with Renkus-Heinz SSD 1800-16 compression drivers. I have a Behringer CX3400 on loan that has 24 DB/octave slopes, but I may go passive or choose a different active crossover when I get my own. I also have Altec 811B horns, which I would like to combine with a DIY bass cab to create a two way. I would also like to acquire either a Klipsch K510 or K401 in the future, and I will need 2" throat compression drivers for these horns, which will be used with either the bass bin portion of my La Scalas, the FH-1s, or the bin I build for the Altec 811Bs. Having the above questions answered could, depending on the answers, greatly expand the choices of compression drivers that would be appropriate for these builds. Thank you in advance for any information/answers that you can provide to these questions. Tiz
  11. I am trying to figure out which crossover settings to use on my Onkyo TX NR-646 receiver. My Fronts are RP-250F, RP-440C center, RP-240S rear surround, Yamaha YST-SW216 10" 100 watt sub and Onkyo SKH-410 Atmos Speakers. And what are the best settings n this receiver for watching mainly action movies? Thanks
  12. This is a newbie question. How does one remove the crossover from the cabinet? I don't see any screws or the like. Does the mid range horn need to come out too? Thanks in advance.
  13. A set of AlK engineering Crossover set. two ea. AP12-600, and two ea. ES 5800 extreme slope. AP12-600 This one is intended for the Belle Klipsch or the La Scala using squawker drivers or horns that will not safely go down to 500 Hz. The crossover is at 600 Hz. This the preferred crossover for The Klipsch Cornwall, Cornwall II, and Corn Scala , Corn Altec etc. These have the midrange level adjustable Autoformer 1 db steps. These are $350 new plus fedex shipping . ES 5800 The 5800 Hz crossover is the recommended frequency for most applications. All versions uses ClarityCaps in the signal path to the tweeter EXCEPT the ES7500. Solen astCaps are used as ClarityCaps are not available in the required value for that crossover frequency. All have adjustable tweeter level settings of 0, -3, -5, -7 and -9 dB attenuation. Auto former . The bi-amp version allows mid-range setting from 3 to 18 dB in 1 dB steps. These are $ 420 new plus fedex I will sell both sets together $700 fedex included to Continental/Contiguous USA call, text or email 5one2 590 9234 billzumwalt@hotmail.com
  14. I recently purchased RP-280F towers and a free R-112SW came with them. What is the optimal crossover for pairing them with the sub? I currently have them at 80Hz
  15. My KLF20s have a 1.25 uF cap. Nobody seems to have this value. Crites claims to use Sonicaps in his upgrades kits but Sonicap website doesn't list this value. Paralelling 2 caps to get close to 1.25 seems to be expesinsive. Do you replace with 1.2 or 1.3 uF? There is also a 8mF electrolitic in the woofer circuit.. again hard to find in a "audio grade" cap. Replace with 8.2? thanks guys and gals
  16. Hey Klipsch community! In the past couple years I've been bitten by the audiophile bug and I've been driven to find new and better ways to enjoy movies and especially music. First I got the two RP-160m bookshelf speakers, then the RP-250C center channel, and this week I finally got my sub, the RP-110SW. I've been happy with the bookshelf and center channels, but I'm pretty sure I have no idea what I'm doing on setting up the appropriate crossover--for the 160's and especially the sub. I'm wondering what the best crossover setting for the receiver would be, and also on the sub itself. I've read a bit and trying out different things, but thought I'd ask in case someone has a similar setup or could show me the way. I'm not sure if it matters, but I'm using an Onkyo TX-NR555 receiver. Thanks for any assistance you can offer!
  17. Hello everyone, I bought a couple of Klipsch Heresy I 1972 (Tweeter: K77 Midhorn: K700 plus K55V driver, woofer: K22E alnico NOT RED SURROUND OF H700 Model) They have Type C crossovers but the woofers impedance is 8 ohm. Do I have to change the crossovers on type D or E configuration?
  18. Got this X-over as part of a bigger parts purchase, don't know which Klipsch model it was designed for or if it works. Have no idea what it is worth, taking offers. Thanks!
  19. Hello all, This is my first post in the forum and I have done a few searches and have called or emailed Klipsch and they sent me to a place that no longer existed. I purchased a pair of Synergy F3's for a great price knowing that there was an issue when I tested them before buying. I was unable to hear anything from the tweeters so I pulled the tweeters and they looked fine. I pulled the terminal plate out to get to the crossover and found that they were fried. I am trying to locate some original F3 crossovers to bring my new purchase back to spec for the best listening experience. One thing that I can tell you right now, if you bypass the crossover for the tweeters, you will get some impressive highs from them! Ear-piercing to say the least but the tweeter response is phenomenal! If I can't source the whole board, I guess I can get a friend of mine (Masters in Electronics Engineering) to replace the faulty parts ore even just rebuild it all on the original board. Last option would be to bypass the whole thing and do an external crossover, but I am not really sure how well that would work.
  20. Selling my matched ALK ESN 500hz and ESN5800hz crossovers. With these you have perhaps the finest crossovers made. Run as 2way or 3way. Al has a switch you can add to make the switch on the fly. Currently $1340 for the pair plus shipping. Asking $1000. Approx 11mo old. Headed toward some Jubs so they get to find a new home. These are separately boxed. Not keen on separating but may consider. Justin 323-868-9722
  21. New member the forum, but I've been reading here for years. I recently had a pair of La Scalas that came with an extra pair of crossovers. I passed the La Scalas on, but I still have the extra crossovers. I want to build a pair of Cornwalls. The crossovers look just like Cornwall crossovers, but there must be some differences. If you were to put together a set of Cornwalls from mix-n-matched components, which horns, mids, & drivers would you use? Or would you just build cornscalas instead?
  22. Just bought a pair of LSi which have AL X-O. Just got my MC30s today and am loving the sound but based on the age of the speakers, I was thinking of rebuilding the X-O with new caps. I read the AL is not the best and people prefer the AA or AL-3. I read it isn't cost effective to convert an AL to an AA. Is it possible (cost effective) to update the AL to AL-3 during the rebuild or do I need to buy a new AL-3 X-O? Carmen
  23. Hello, I would like to ask you for 2 questions... 1) how huge should be room for r115 sw? I got r110sw in 6x4 meters. Its really bone rattling booms shaking with my internal organs i got it only on 40%. I got lpf and in rcv 80-100hz. In tron movie about 42minutes its hardcored so i am afraid of r115. My friend has a r110 and smaller room and he cant reach my sound on 70%. I think its cause by room acustic. So should i go for r115? 2) how is your setups, is there any recommended setup? I got floorstands rf82 ii which is playing from 32hz i guess and i set it in RCV from 50hz, center 450c is from 60hz and surrounds rb61ii are from 50hz. Lpf is 80 sometimes 100. My setup is : front: rf 82 ii Center: 450c Surrounds: rb 61 ii Subwoofer: r110 sw Thanks a lot for advise.
  24. So i picked up some Cornwalls a couple weeks ago. Missing tweeters and one woofer. Had a spare woofer laying around. Ordered Crites CT-120 and installed. My first impression was they lacked the detail of my La Scala. I am running them in tandem with my La Scalas so this is a "side by side comparison". Coincidentally, the La Scala and the Cornwalls are "U"... 1980 models. La Scala is AA crossover and the Cornwall is the B crossover. A good audio friend of mine came over and we recapped the crossovers real quick last Saturday. Swapping the 4 uF for a 3 (I believe) and he tweaked my parametric a tad (400hz +3db) and they definitely sound better but when run together with the La Scalas I find that I'm not too crazy about them (the Cornwalls). I'm curious about suggested mods for the Cornwalls? I have a 2nd pair of La Scala that will get the bass bin mod AND custom crossovers a la my friend who's La Scalas completely blow me away. In the long run, I picture a La Scala in all four corners (!) and the Cornwalls in my den. Thoughts, suggestions welcome. Is this how the Cornscala came to be?!?
  25. First post here...noob to the site. Bear with me....I'm old too! Testing the waters, updating my Vintage K-horns and looking to finance it...at least partially anyway, through the sale of some vintage parts. I don't really know the value and need some guidance....some price range perhaps. I bought my Khorns in the early 80's. I sent a letter (dating myself here) to Klipsch inquiring about updates to my new acquisitions and they responded with the history of my speakers (built in 1977, BBU) and told me about the upgrades available at that time. That was 1984, I have the original 1977 vintage K33 woofers in pristine condition, in Klipsch boxes, and the 1984 "upgrade" crossovers the AK-7's. they are also in excellent condition save for some dust and what seems to be the standard cankered and corroded driver leads, greenish in color within the insulation. I would appreciate any insight my fellow Klipsch fans can provide!
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