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Showing results for tags 'Subwoofer'.
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I just set up my Klipsch speaker system I got from Walmart and although both my left and right speakers work fine, my subwoofer is not working. I have tried reseating the 9 pin serial connection and trying different power outlets as well as ensuring the subwoofer's knob is turned up where it needs to be. I have also tried to see if maybe using the AUX input would show any different results but this has sadly resulted in nothing as well. Does anyone have any suggestions on what's up?
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So in researching DIY HT subs, I've looked a lot at both of these lilmike designs. Here are some of the "vs" comparisons I've come up with. (Help me finish fleshing this out) Frequency Extension: - lilwrecker: tuned to 17Hz - F-20: tuned to 22Hz Dimensions: - lilwrecker: 70" tall x 28 1/2" deep x 25 3/8" wide - F-20: 60" tall x 20" deep x 29.375" wide Material List: - lilwrecker: 4 sheets of 3/4" plywood - F-20: 2 and a quarter sheets of 3/4" plywood DIY difficulty: (my w.a.g. from reading the threads) - lilwrecker: 5 of 10 - F-20: 3 of 10 Divers: (Prices as of Sept 2015) - lilwrecker: ----- Alpine SWS-15D2 - ($129.95) - Amazon link ----- Alpine SWS-15D4 - ($129.95)- Amazon Link ----- Kicker CVX152 - ($399.95) - Sonic Electronix Link ----- Kicker CVX154 - ($399.95) - Sonic Electronix Link - F-20 ----- Dayton Audio RSS390HF ($172.69) Parts-Express link Amplifiers (suggested) - lilwrecker ----- Berhinger iNUKE NU3000DSP - ($279.99) - Amazon link - F-20 ------ Not sure
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Hi guys , i hope someone,can help me out with the following issue . I have a pioneer receiver Vsx 920 , so nothing special there. I just bought a new Klipsch R-10 SW woofer , and i ran the MCACC to let pioneer fine tune the speakers and new woofer . i have had the adjust knob at the back set to LFE and woofer gain at 40% as seen on picture below. I have set the the "on switch" to "Auto" And let it run..... he detects my speakers , detects the woofer and al well . After running everything and pioneer is ready with the "fine tuning" Then i start to watch tv and i wait..... but the subwoofer wont turn on automatically . then i start up spotify ...no woofer... a movie.....no woofer I have to keep switching the on and off switch to make use of its woofer . I thought maybe its the wrong cable? So i bought a new cable .. Oehlbach Nf subwoofer cable. still nothing , so i bought another cable of Monster subwoofer 400 sw cable. still nothing... I ran the MCACC again... checked the setting...i thought , maybe the volume was to low on the woofer. i noticed it was set to -10 DB ... so i switched it up to 0 DB , but stil no luck. I did a Hard reset on my reciever...and once again let MCACC run its course.... no luck Now im ran out of ideas, what to do....to make it work on auto setting....
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Im not sure which cables connect to which ports on the circuitboard. can anyone help me out with this? Images below. I have two cables coming from the transformer. not sure which cable goes on which clip, dont want to fry the board. Thanks
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Hi All: I have a pair of Klipsch KSP-400 tower speakers, which has a build-in 15" subwoofer on each speakers. http://images.klipsch.com/KSP400C6S6...5637990000.pdf I love this speaker pair in my home theater as they sound extremely good, very easy to drive and the subs are very well integrated with the mid and high. However, in the last few months, one of the sub started to make a loud buzz/hum sound when first turn on (wake-up from auto standby); the buzz sound is very loud for the first minute or so then getting softer and softer then completely gone in about 5 minutes. After that, the sub is working perfectly fine, until it goes to sleep (standby) then wake up again! My questions: 1) is there any quick and easy fix to the amp? or what is the problem? 2) if I leave the amp on all the time, not in auto standby, then I don't have this problem. I have let it on for most of a day and the heat sink behind the speaker is not much warmer than the one on standby. However, I'm very worry about the heat and fire hazard, if I leave the amp on all the time. What do you think? I did some search, a few folks had replace the amp on this speaker with an external amp and the speaker is still working fine, but I don't want to do so as that would add another equipment to my space-limited rack, also modify to the speakers and cost. Thank you for any suggestion. BT
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Hi I have an older 440W KSW-12 downward firing subwoofer and I am contemplating on whether or not to replace the OEM paper 12” driver with a newer copper spun type OR a 3rd party driver from JL Audio, Dayton Audio, etc. Has anyone replaced their older KSW or equivalent driver with a newer one and if so did you notice an increase in punch or perceived output @ the same level with the OEM driver or any other differences? The bottom end frequency for the OEM driver is 24Hz Any ideas or thoughts? I currently have: + One pair of Klipsch F30 front speakers (to be moved in back to use as back surrounds) + One pair of RP-500SA Atmos speakers placed on top of the F30’s + One Polk Audio 5 driver center speaker + One pair of Polk Audio Monitor 50 Series II’s for the back surrounds + One pair of Klipsch RS-14’s for side/high surrounds + Klipsch KSW-12 subwoofer + Onkyo TX-RZ840 Receiver (For Theater) + Homebrew 40 wattt x 2 tube driven pre/power amplifier (For Music only) + A Project One pure analog tuner - the good old days My goal: Obtain a new OR USED primary front firing subwoofer (preferably the SPL-120) and then use this KSW-12 either as a 2nd sub behind my couch for home theater use or separately (non zoned) with my TX-NR708 receiver in another room for whatever. Tnx Tim Dickerson, CEM, NREMT-P ARS N9NU
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First of all, good day to you! and please can you give me a hand?. Join my journy with this subwoofer (not native language, sorry for any mistake): Right after the warranty ended this subwoofer started to fail, first it started making a noise when turned ON, like a grounding or false contact for a few seconds and then it was silent and working fine but at random moments started to do the same sometimes i had to turn it off because it started to do it loud (always jumping from quiet to loud at random, the noise not the audio, i found it on youtube with the word "rattling sound" but no pops or anything else) after a few weeks this got worse and one day after turning on the Sub it went Off seconds later, the only way to turn it back ON was disconnecting the power cord and plug it in again. I took the subwoofer to fix on the same place i bought it, they fixed and told me it was the power supply and 8 months later (since last week) im having similar issues but not that bad, this time it does this noise when i turn it ON after being Off a few hours and just for a few seconds and never again. Since they told me it was the power supply and the place is 2hs away from my home (the fix was expensive too)... i decided to open the damn thing myself and check for a bad capacitor or something since i know how to replace components and since is doing something similar from last time (before the fix) i figure the solution could be the same, well i took a look at the board and i couldn't find anything looking bad (only yellow stuff I believe is glue that came from factory and some brown stuff from the same thing, the heat turned the yellow to brown?), so i decided check on the back of the board soldering marks and replace some of the same components to test and also clean the pcb from the flux they have used. Looking the components i saw only two capacitors that looked like discolored (from heat maybe?) and decided to replace this two only to test, results: Both 22uf 50v were replaced with 22uf 63v Then powered the Sub and voila! the quiet to loud random noise stopped but still does some low noise went i turn it ON from a few hours of having the Sub unplugged (check the video): https://youtu.be/lvhrqyqhzuA https://youtu.be/0CSbTVZGDJ8 Now the sound level remains low and last just a few seconds (10-20) and remain on the same sound level, it doesn't go from quiet to very loud at random so i assume im on the right track. After this wall of text (sorry) can you give a hand and tell me which component could be causing this or if i could fix it myself just replacing capacitors? if yes is ok to use capacitor with a little higher V but same uF? Is hard to get the exact same. Already contacted klipsch support but it said 7 days... maybe someone here got the same problem and found a way to fix it?. Here some pics. http://imgbox.com/g/sBh24N9I1y EDIT: I found a picture for what it seems a leaked capacitor but is just the yellow glue burned brown i think, this is a pic from a R115SW model.
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Greetings, I would like to get a little bit more detail as how does this translate to the overall power from this Subwoofer. The Amp behind this Subwoofer says it's only 80W but the overall Soundbar and Subwoofer power together is 800W as indicated by Klipsch. How is this power distributed exactly, does this Subwoofer really has only 80W maximum or there's more wattage/power that goes beyond that which isn't disclosed? Pardon my level of experience with subwoofer and amps, I made this thread because I would like to understand how does this work and if this 80W amp is enough to make this Subwoofer get comfortably loud without damaging or overheating if the owner desires. .
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Downsizing and the following items for sale. Price is $1,000. 1. Klipsch RF 3 pair 2. KLF-C7 (Center) 3. RS 3 pair 4. SW Sub 12 HGB Speakers work perfectly have no issue. One surround with nick corner and need new velcro, Local inspection welcome. Items are located at 91006 and preferred local pick up.
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Excellent condition. Original box. Amplifier, both active and passive driver, grill, and cabinet are in excellent, like new condition. The volume knob is not fluid, but it works. It most likely needs to be cleaned, or you could replace the pot for a couple-o-dollars. This really isn’t an issue because it can be turned all the way up and the levels will be adjusted in your receiver/processor/preamp. I just wanted to disclose the only issue this sub has. Gently used in my office, which turned into a child’s bedroom, hence the sale. Buy with confidence as everything I sell I would feel comfortable buying myself. Garage audition welcomed upon time of purchase to verify that everything works correctly and as stated. Local sale preferred. Basic shipping in original box, add $95 (Wow has shipping increased!) and I'll cover paypal fees. If you want a double box with tons of extra padding, we can have that conversation when you're ready to buy. (Shipping only to forum members that have been around for at least a bit.) I'm located Southwest burbs of Chicago 60511
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Almost brand new V36 IPAL from power sound audio. Purchased last year and has been used weekly. In perfect working condition and I’m more than willing to show you demos of its capabilities before final sale. You will need an appliance dolly to move. $3000. Residing in Port Orchard, Washington State.
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I have a larger (33x15x9) room and a new set of Klipsch RP-600m speakers. I also have a pair of 15" downward-firing subs. My crossover (JL Audio CR-1) is capable of discreet R/L stereo bass management. At what frequency should this pair of satellites be crossed over to the subs for stereo audio use only? I've had audio amigos advise me that I should set the crossover as closely as possible to the -3dB roll-off point of the satellites, but as I see it, this has numerous potential disadvantages: 1. The acoustic roll-off of the speakers will be added to that of the upstream electronic crossover, causing asymmetrical crossover rates between the satellites and the subs. 2. The intermodulation distortion of the satellites will be increased because of the higher woofer excursion on the satellites. 3. The single 6.5" woofers of the satellites will be stressed at high volumes in my room. I've (conversely) also had other audio amigos recommending to me that since I do have two subs, and because those subs will (initially) be located as closely as possible to the satellites, that I set the crossover to as high a frequency as possible (150 Hz. with the JL). As I see it, this does have some advantages, but also some disadvantages: On the plus side: 1. The intermodulation distortion of the satellites should be minimized because the longer excursions required for lower bass will be handled by the subs (whose larger cone area will minimize distortion for the same volume). 2. The amount of current required to run the satellites will be greatly reduced allowing the use of much lower wattage tube amplifiers if desired. 3. By judicious use of the phase knob on the sub's plate amps, I can move the subs more independently of the satellite locations. But on the minus side: 1. Having a higher crossover frequency may allow the transition from satellites to subs to become more audible. 2. At higher frequencies, acoustic localization of the subs may become more likely. 3. The downward-firing design of the subs may muffle the higher frequencies. The specific subs being used are Powersound Audio S1510DF models, a sealed-box design that has worked well in my room before. I plan to use the JL crossover with 24dB / octave slopes, rather than the more ubiquitous 12. So noting that movie soundtrack use is NOT a priority for this system, where should the crossover point be set? Thanks in advance for your help - Boomzilla
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I have a Denon X1400h Dolby Atmos receiver and and I have paired Klipsch R-820F floor standing speakers with it. Since Klipsch speakers are efficient I did not set up a preamp with it. It's a very basic setup and I'm looking for recommendations for a central Channel and a subwoofer to go with this system -
Which Klipsch subwoofer to complement Khorns in a 5.1 system?
RAFellows posted a topic in Subwoofers
I have a 5.0 setup with Khorns for the L/R mains, a R-34C for the center and RF7’s for the surrounds (will be replacing these with LaScalas). I keep reading that a dedicated subwoofer for the LFE channel would help on movies, even with the Khorns. I’m looking at the SPL-120 & SPL-150. I’m thinking the 150 would match up better with the Khorns. What do you experts think? -
Hello All, I am looking to match a Subwoofer to my tube amp, ideally I'd like to stay with Klipsch as this feels right alongside my Heresy II's. I think I have a problem, I have an Icon Audio ST40 MK2 tube amp which only has speaker connects and no sub connection. Is there a way round this with Klipsch subwoofers, if so how do I do this and what is the theory with it ? I have a very small music room, it's not optimal in sound but does me so I do not need a huge sub. Just something to improve the Heresy II lack of sub bass. Help, thoughts and recommendations would be most welcome. Happy Monday all x Tom
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I am told by Klipsch that one channel is out on my R20-B subwoofer, resulting in diminished bass response. Klipsch does not repair and two of their authorized repair centers do not have parts as this model is no longer manufactured. "Sorry." 'Click.' Sucks to be me. Ugh!! Do I have a two year old boat anchor? Some background. At some point, there began a popping sound from the woofer when changing channels or inputs, when there was before. My thought was that something muted when this action occurred. An original called Klipsch was responded with, this is not a fault of the speaker. My cable provider denied any connection to their service and this popping anomaly. Again, I assumed some muting what's happening on the cable provider audio side. So, I learned to live with it, turning my volume down when changing channels or inputs. Ultimately I began to notice loss in bottom. Another call to Klipsch revealed you could be a circuitry problem and this issue was not unheard-of by the tech who serviced me, stating that the circuitry problem could have resulted in blowing out one channel in the subwoofer. Anyone? Bueller? Bueller??
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I currently own the R-41 PM and would like to know what’s the difference between these two subwoofers, which is ideal for me and what should I be thinking about when picking either one of these subwoofers. I listen to them in a small room and use USB audio. Currently I only use them for music but in the future may want to have the option of using this 2ch setup and subwoofer for movies. I’m also open to other Brand’s if they are better suited. thanks in advance. Cheers Yash
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Hey guys, I just plugged in an RSW-12 sub I purchased from someone along with a pair of R7 Towers and the RC7 Center. It worked great at first, then I noticed that the tower woofers weren't working hard at all and all of the bass was being sent to the sub, which created this compartmentalized bass sound. I decided to dig into the receiver and maybe set the front and centers to "large" and then adjust the crossover to something like 50hz. However, when I did this, the sub was almost silent. After adjusting a few different ways with combinations of large and small along with different frequencies, the sub now just constantly lets out a loud noise all the time. The noise is max volume even at the lowest setting and persists even when the source is disconnected. Any ideas on what is going on here? I have the sub cross over knob at around 70 now, Auto On enabled, and LFE disabled. I'm using a Pioneer Elite VSX-53 amp
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I have a older Klipsch RW-12ii. Fifteen years and still working fine. Problem is the past two nights the subwoofer has activated in the middle of the night and sounded like a huge white noise or gurgling sound. Woke me up immediately. Ran to the stereo system and everything was fine except the subwoofer was "sounding" off. I unplugged it, waited, and plugged it back it and the sound stopped. Everything I check in the system is fine, no problems. The next night the same thing happened, only at a different time. What I'd like to know is, can an outside (electrical or radio RF) signal could trip the auto-on feature??? (Or anything else someone could think of to cause this?) The subwoofer and all of the stereo is plugged into a surge protector. Nothing else was activated but the subwoofer. Weird! Has this happened to anyone else?
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Hello guys I just got my speakers Could you please help me with the settings at my AVR and subwoofer I got -> 5.1.2 ______________________________ RP-600M - RP-600C - RP-502S RP-500SA R-112SW ______________________________ At SUB- 1: I can choose between phase 0 and 180 - the subwoofer is in the mid -> frontL - Sub - Center - frontR 2:What freq should I go at Low-Pass? 3:btw my center is on my subwoofer - is that a problem ? ____________________________________ my AVR is Denon now I go to Speakers - Manual Setup - Crossovers: 4:What should I choose there it starts at 40hz next menu point: Speakers - Manual Setup - Bass There I got 5:Subwoofer Mode : I can choose LFE - or LFE + Main 6:LPF for LFE : starts with 80hz - 250hz next menu point: Speakers - Manual Setup - Speakerconfig 7:there I got the possibility to change the speakers to large - got them at small - is that good? next menu point: Speakers - Manual Setup - Amp Assign 8:what Dolby Atmos mode should I chose - what's the best one - or where should I put my Atmos speakers I can take /Front Height / Front Dolby / Surround Dolby next menu point: Audio - Audyssey 9:MultEQ XT ; should I choose there Reference or Flat? thanks alot for reading best wishes
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In a predicament, warranty vs great deal. I have found a SPL120 subwoofer for sale for $300 locally. He has all packaging, but apparently damage occurred during shipping (has two corner dings) and he used for two weeks while waiting for his new one. The other option is getting a brand new R-12SW from Costco locally for $250 and it will have full warranty along with costco match. I've heard mixed reviews on the reliability of klipsch subwoofer amps and am curious if anyone else has had issues with them. Is it worth the difference in performance to roll the dice on this sub from offerup? Thanks,
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So a co-worker tricked me into entering to money pit that is high end audio equipment a couple months ago, and unfortunately I'm getting hungrier and hungrier for upgrades everyday. It all started with him selling me his Heresy III's (he built himself some amazing La Scala clones) and I started slow on the equipment. I grabbed a decent turntable (Pro-ject debut carbon EVO) as vinyl was my main focus initially, and then settled for an Emotiva TA-100 to put it all together. Within a week I had ordered an Emotiva 8" subwoofer to help fill out the low end, but it's not exactly filling the void as I'd hoped. I've spiraled uncontrollably since then, and now the set up has removed the TA-100 for a Schiit Mani and a PrimaLuna Dialogue Premium Integrated. I just added a Bluesound Node 2i for Tidal streaming, and now I feel like the sub is a real weak link. The Heresy III's sound amazing solo, but without a sub I feel like I'm definitely missing something on the low end, but the Emotiva sub - though warm in tone and surprisingly fast- just doesn't fill the void properly. Does anyone have experience with similar equipment that has a good recommendation for a fitting sub? I'd prefer to not spend more than about $500 if possible - but if there's a specific sub that you know would fit this system perfectly I'd be open to any recommendations. I'd really prefer to find the right sub to balance everything out so I could start focusing on actually listening to the music and quit focusing on what else I need. Also, all RCA's are from Mogami and the speaker wires are Audioquest Rocket 44's Thanks in advance, -Dom Pro-Ject Debut Carbon EVO -> Schiit Mani / Bluesound Node 2i -> PrimaLuna Dialogue Premium Integrated -> Klipsch Heresy III's
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This is a vintage cabinet for a Klipsch Rebel corner subwoofer. I purchased it with the intent to rebuild it, but lost time and momentum. To be functional it will need a 15" driver as well as an amp to drive it (I have a new plate amp that I'd be willing to add for $75). Pick up in the northern Virginia/DC area.
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Hi! I've recently added a klipsch sub (r-115sw) to my home audio system, and I was wondering wether to plug my sub and amp though LFE or a RCA Y-splitter. I mainly use my system for music and in regards to that, i've heard differing statements. Some say LFE is the best option for movies and RCA the best option for music. Others even say that for an untrained ear like mine, I wouldn't even notice the difference between LFE and RCA. So what i'm asking is, if my main use for my system is listening to music, should I connect my sub and amp through LFE or RCA? If any of you have any suggestions as to what cable would be good/compatible with my sub, I would be grateful. Thanks!
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is there a way to create a piezocrystal subwoofer that can hit 1hz or lower?
