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Showing results for tags 'jumpers'.
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Craig’s List, B’ham, AlaBama: In case someone is missing theirs...I don’t own KLF 20’s... NO Affiliation, Buyer Beware...
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Hi All, Just want to inform you of a nice tweak for the RF7II's. I have changed the jumpers on my speakers a few times, abandoning the stock brass metal jumpers a few years ago. I have used solid core (JW Audio Cryo Nova), no name aftermarket jumpers, and bare cable (Audioquest sliver plated copper jumpers). But the ones that have really beefed up and opened up the midrange have been Mogami 10 gauge. These jumpers have made the midrange and highs have a presence I have not heard in the previous years I owned the RF7II's. I highly recommend them. By the way, a respected audiophile, Duster, at Audio Asylum posted in the past recommending that for speaker jumpers to get the heaviest gauge possible, as low as 9 gauge. The fact that I am getting improvement in the midrange presence from these 10 gauge jumpers, backs up his recommendation. Your mileage may vary, but worth trying. Quote from Duster at Audio Asylum: "Believe it or not, a jumper really needs a rather massive aggregate gauge in order to provide any body. High conductivity is very important for a bi-wire jumper (bridging from either direction). I tested one 20 AWG solid core conductor at a time and found that at least an 11 AWG aggregate gauge per leg was needed. 9 AWG is not uncommon in commercial products."
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Hi, I am new to the setup of my home theatre system. I have an AV receiver Yamaha A1060, RF260 floor standing speakers, RP250C, R14-S surround, R-10SW. I was so careless that I didn't remove the jumpers when doing a bi-wire. While doing the YPAO with a mic on the Yamaha, the AV receiver shuts down when it was half way doing the calibration. I didn't realised it was the jumpers, the receiver was showing "Check SP wire". I did the YPAO a few times (The receiver shut down a few times). I just wanna to ask if I had damaged my RF260 speakers or its internal components? Thanks.