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Location: Seattle area. Cannot be shipped, pick up or delivery in the area. Make offer! This is a Klipsch 5.1 WF-35 Home Theater system packed in original boxes. This is the espresso (black) color. Can take more photos of boxes if you like. Living room friendly, Icon W Series WF-35 home theater system delivers the sound mantra—power, detail and emotion—from thin, beautiful furniture-grade wood veneer cabinets. * (2) WF-35 Floorstanding Speakers * (1) WC-24 Center Channel Speaker * (2) WS-24 Surround Speakers * (1) XW-500d Subwoofer To the eye, the recommended WF-35 home theater system reflects a classic approach, featuring furniture-grade wood veneer cabinets available in an espresso or a cabernet finish. But to the ear, there is nothing traditional about it. https://www.whathifi.com/amp/news/dial-w-wood-new-range-klipsch-icon-speakers

Location: Seattle area. Cannot be shipped, pick up or delivery in the area. Make offer! This is a Klipsch 5.1 WF-35 Home Theater system packed in original boxes. This is the espresso (black) color. Can take more photos of boxes if you like. Living room friendly, Icon W Series WF-35 home theater system delivers the sound mantra—power, detail and emotion—from thin, beautiful furniture-grade wood veneer cabinets. * (2) WF-35 Floorstanding Speakers * (1) WC-24 Center Channel Speaker * (2) WS-24 Surround Speakers * (1) XW-500d Subwoofer To the eye, the recommended WF-35 home theater system reflects a classic approach, featuring furniture-grade wood veneer cabinets available in an espresso or a cabernet finish. But to the ear, there is nothing traditional about it. https://www.whathifi.com/amp/news/dial-w-wood-new-range-klipsch-icon-speakers

I own serial numbers 357 ( Signed by paul Klipsch 11 Aug 54; Salem, OR) & serial # 453 klipschorn. Owned them several years, both work. They do not match due to Mono then.. People bought just one.. Have set of NOS Complete set of grills go with them . Am willing to sell..Let me know if interested. Live on Mobile Bay Area in Alabama.. tried put pics, but files too large..will have to take smaller files or reduce the ones i have..

Craigslist link https://tippecanoe.craigslist.org/ele/d/frankfort-klipsch-chorus-ii-speakers/7298088443.html I am located in Frankfort, IN 46041 I have a pair of Chorus II speakers for sale. One is missing the woofer. All other speakers are intact and everything is original. (*SPEAKERS SOLD*) I also have a pair of Adcom GFA-565 mono amps, an Adcom GFP-565 preamp, and an Adcom GCD-575 cd player. I know the amps will need repaired. The research I've done showed that these amps had problems with capacitors leaking and causing failures and burning up speakes. This is likely why the one woofer is missing. I did try these amps and I just get static/hissing sound. The distortion light is always on too. If that helps anybody. The preamp does work as far as I can remember but it is "staticy" when the volume is adjusted. I haven't tried the CD player for years and don't know if it works or not. There is a guy that repairs the amps at https://www.ebcelectronics.com/Adcom-GFA-565-Repair-Service.html My dad got everything around 1991 I believe. I always wanted to replace the woofer and repair the other equipment. I just don't have the space or money for them right now and have had them sotting around for years. It's just time to let them go. Pictures I have are over 2MB. So, see pictures in above Craigslist post. ***UPDATE 3/28*** I DID SELL THE SPEAKERS 3/30 All sold

The theater room we are trying to set this up is 33 feet long and 16 feet wide. Looking to build a very good movie theatre system with budget around $12,000. Please suggest a system for the same. I currently have the following speakers already bought/some were form another old system. 1. Klipsch 5.25 2 way Bookshelf speaker - pair 2. Klipsch RP-140SA REFR PREM ATMOS.BK - pair 3. Klipsch- 8060FA-2-way FS SPKR W/DBY - Pair 4. Klipsch - RP280FA DOLBY ATMOS Front SPKR - Pair Now what of these can I use and what new i need to buy. need suggestions on Receiver as well please. Looking to build like a 11 point system. All suggestions welcome.

hello friends, my name is Salvo and I am writing from Italy, I am in possession of a pair of first series klipsch rf7 speakers, can I know which month and year they were built from the serial number? The numbers are as follows: S / N: RF7CH..06470079 S / N: RF7CH..06470080 THANK YOU 🙂 SALVO

For sale: $9000.00 Klipsch AK-3 surround sound speakers set of 5 Nominal Impedance 8 ohms 1- KLF-C7 134798177 27"x11" 2- KLF-30 071790638 45"x16" 2- KB oak Raw-17 099790181 51"x31" Located in southeast Idaho

I am currently selling my Klipsch La Scalas which I purchased new in 1979. Cosmetically, they are far from perfect, (with some chips in the top ply at edges and watermarks on the tops) in the original unfinished birch as I always preferred the look rather than staining them. Anyone with basic wood skills could make them beautiful again, however I have no such skills! I am located in Maryland, and would prefer a local pickup, but motor freight or some other method of delivery could be arranged. The crossovers are type AA, they still sound awesome and there are have been no modifications to the speakers at all. I am asking $2500 $2400 for the pair. La Scala3.tiff La Scala2.tiff La ScLa Scala3.tiffala1.tiff

I recently purchased a new TT (Pro Ject Debut Carbon Espirit) paired with the Fives powered speakers by Klipsch, to be used almost exclusively to play vinyl, with the occasional streaming via Spotify and my iPhone. When streaming music, the speakers sound very good. However, with vinyl (and I bought them for vinyl) they sound just okay. I’m no expert. So perhaps I expect too much. But to me, when playing records, even new, audiophile grade records, The Fives sound a little muddy, sort of muffled. And I really want the true vinyl experience. The cartridge (Ordifon Red) came new with the TT. The TT has no internal phono amp. One of the reasons I chose the 5s was their built in preamp. (I since read one review that opined the phono preamp was the 5s weakest feature.) So I find myself contemplating a separate phono amp, perhaps a tube amp, based upon what I read. Pro Ject makes one (S2?) that plays to rave reviews, but it ain’t cheap. ($450). Am I destined to spiral down the bottomless audiophile rabbit hole called “better sound,” so often sought in vain? (You know you’ve done it.) Or should I give a separate preamp a shot? Or does someone more knowledgeable than I have any other ideas? Thanks in advance.

Hi.. I am trying to buy an amplifier that will suit my speakers but the speakers don’t have the wattage or ohms on them. Is there any way of working out that information using the Serial Number and or numbers printed on the backs of the speakers? Pics attached.

I have a pair of Black Klipsch Tangent T5000 speaker for sale. The T5000 is a double 12 inch woofer design with 1 active woofer and 1 passive woofer. These were purchased new, by me, in 1993 or 1994 and were top of the line in the Tangent series at that time. The boxes, grilles, and speakers are in excellent conditioned. Speakers Located in Atlanta, GA $325 $300 and buyer is responsible for pick up. Thanks for your review Tomas

Hello, I’m browsing for a pair of la scalas within a reasonable 6-7 hour drive from New Orleans. I haven’t set a budget or year yet as I don’t 100% know what I’m looking for. I just recall seeing them as a kid in the ‘80s and always wanting a pair. Thanks, CJ

These speakers are from the original line of Klipsch Heresies which have a significant audiophile following. I upgraded them with the Crites crossovers and high frequency drivers which definitely improved and smoothed out their sound. Cabinets and grills are showing their age - see pics (I never got around to the refinishing stage). Currently they are on angled risers, but I also have the original even bases. I'm still looking for the pics of the insides. Pick up is in the northern Virginia/DC metro area. Price is $500 (PayPal fees extra).

This is a vintage cabinet for a Klipsch Rebel corner subwoofer. I purchased it with the intent to rebuild it, but lost time and momentum. To be functional it will need a 15" driver as well as an amp to drive it (I have a new plate amp that I'd be willing to add for $75). Pick up in the northern Virginia/DC area.

Pair of Klipsch KG 1.5 Bookshelf speakers for sale. Good condition. Sound awesome. So Cal 805 area code. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Se8ETNVuWC2VRvnE8

Hello I'm new to the forum and happy to be a part of it! I have a pair of Klipsch KW-120 THX subwoofers without the amp. Is it worth buying the amp or should I sell them and buy a powered Sub. I currently have a Pb4000 pro and the THX ultra 2 series as my front stage. Anyone have experience with the THX subs? Or can I run them with another type amplifier? I may be interested in selling them if the price is right. Im in the Tampa bay area in Florida. Please let me know what you think.

I have a pair of klf 30s in black in great shape and looking to sell as much as i dont want to but every time i turn them up the neighbors start complaining lol. The are powered by a onkio amp which im also willing to sell. Email me at sone1ner@gmail.com if interested. If it comes down to it im gonna build a box for mids and tweeters and put them in my minivan. Also willing to trade for car audio considering i was gonna use mid and tweeters so i get clear sound over 3 kicker L7s i have now

Recently I bought a klipsch subwoofer for my car and I want to connect with my car audio system. What are the steps I should follow?

UPDATE: On Bill's recommendation, grabbed a pair of RP-160M on sale for $374. Looking for a 2-channel pair of speakers for my living room TV. Budget: prefer $200-$300, but willing to go to $400 max for exceptional value. Using a Sony STR-DH130 (100 WPC) SS receiver, which has surprisingly decent sound, but this is not an audiophile set up. I recently had my Klipsch Heresies in this role, and they set a standard I'm hoping to come as close as possible to: superb clarity, terrific detail, palpable but not overwhelming presence, good-enough bass. Now the Heresies are back upstairs with my McIntosh for music-only. I've had to put back my old Pro Media 2.1 with the TV, and by comparison it's like listening through a glorified boom box. Much of the clarity and most of the detail is veneered-over. Based on my reading so far, I would think (never having heard them) that the RB-5s would be ideal, but can only find one offering on eBay for over $400 w/shipping, and they don't have any grills (for living room, this is a problem). There's a pair in Garage Sale, but they're over 4 hours away, which is about 2 hours each way too many. (I'm in Western Massachusetts.) What do you recommend? I realize I'm not going to find Heresy-quality in my price range, but given that this is for HT use only, how close can I get?

SOLD. They are Model 1 RB-5. Attractive, furniture quality wood veneer mahogany finish. They are consecutive serial numbers. I have mint Cornwall V1, and other HE speakers, so decided to let these go. In summary--they are in truly excellent condition. UPDATE: Only upon posting these pictures in this revised ad do I see a small ding on one driver. This is too small to do anything to fix. This ding was there at the time I bought them--I realize only right now from original picture I found. Apparently, it is not easy to see when standing, so I missed it to now. I have the original boxes in good condition with original packing material, but for now they are available for transfer to your car or SUV of the speakers (so you can inspect them) and their original boxes. While I mainly lurk on this fun and informative site, I have bought and sold from several others here, and have tons of only-positive feedback everywhere as NuRxHunter.

Since my Klipsch R-51PM powered speakers have a built-in DAC and a 100% digital amp, I wanted to keep the signal digital throughout the entire pipeline -- so I figured I'd use the USB output on the Raspberry Pi 4. What I'm trying to ascertain is whether there would be a quality improvement if I used a HAT with Toslink Audio instead of the USB output on the Pi? (my Klipsch have both USB Audio Input and Toslink) FYI: I'm not networked -- just playing music from a USB Thumb Drive using Moode on the RPi 7" screen. I appreciate any wisdom!

Looking to purchase a working, good sounding K9K woofer for my KG2's. I picked the pair up for free from a friend and they have been my first speaker restoration project. One of 'em has developed a persistent buzzing, though, especially in the lower frequencies, hence my WTB. I'd be interested in any other spare KG2 parts as well, but mainly looking for the K9K. Thanks!

G'DAY Klipsch I can't find the connection instructions for the Klipsch 40 subwoofer unit to the soundbar or a link to these instructions. The connection of these two units are a crucial part of my sound bar set up so I'm finding this extremely frustrating. I'm not very techy so could you please help me. Thanks for your help,,,,,,,,,,,,,,from Frosty

For the same price, which is better? It's for my bedroom, my set up is two r-51m and a r-52 in front and two r-41m as rear speakers. I appreciate any help.

UPDATE (4/3/20): Still hope everyone is doing well and finding ways not to succumb to "cabin fever" 😵 Since I did a tweeter upgrade recently, it gave me a chance to take another pic of the x-over board showing how I fixed the loose coil using tie wraps. I have added that to the collection of photos below....Cheers.... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Hope everyone is hunkering down and hanging in there with all this coronavirus stuff going on. Be smart and stay healthy!!! I finally got around to updating my 20+ yr. old KG2.5s. I opened the spkrs. to verify cap values and found they were KG2.5s, not KG2.2s as I had come to believe for some reason (see TL;DR below...it was a definite "D'oh!" moment). Anyway, now that I had verified parts, I ordered them and they arrived a few days later. I set aside some time to do the upgrades. I planned to do 1 spkr. at a time since the new caps would be combinations to equal the original values AND some were axial (leads on either end) instead of radial (both leads on same end). This also meant drilling some new holes and figuring out how to secure the now dual-cap configs. I prob'ly could have found actual values but my research into that meant buying more (in some cases, much, much more) expensive upgraded caps (Mundorf, Solen, etc.) and spending nearly 1/2 (or more) of the price of the spkrs. Just didn't think it prudent for these spkrs. Ended up with Dayton caps for the tweeter circuit and Parts Express-branded caps for the electrolytics. TL;DR - Not remembering my spkr models - When I started the upgrade I opened 1 spkr. (configuration is a heavy plastic front panel with both woofers(?), the tweeter and the x-over PCB mounted to it which is then mounted into the front of the box with 8 wood screws) and removed the x-over board. That's when I noticed a couple of things wrt the model. I saw KG2.5 printed on the PCB (possible explanation for cap values I didn't expect), and my first thought was maybe this was a mfg. error and why I bought them (KG2.2) at a fairly good price way back when. Then I looked at the part number printed on the woofer (and I use that term loosely). It was not the one supposedly used for the KG2.2s. So, out to the garage I ran to find the original box and, sure enuf, it said KG2.5. Then I realized I should look at the back of the spkrs. Once again, it was confirmed they were KG2.5s. My guess is my confusion came from the fact that I had collected a fair amt of KG2.2 tech docs and found very little for the KG2.5s. Somewhere along the way my brain decided to "remember" the spkrs were KG2.2s. Go figure.... Performing the mods/upgrades - Doing the actual mods was fairly straight forward but required some adaptations for the new caps. Original caps in the woofer circuit were unbranded radial electrolytic NPOs: 25 uF and 18 uF both @ 100V and 10% tolerance. I replaced them with axial (100V, 10%) 10 uF + 15 uF for the 25 uF, and 10 uF + 8 uF for the 18 uF cap. Pretty much a swap except for double the parts and axial vs. radial. In the tweeter circuit were, what I believe to be, mylar caps (usually fairly stable) at 8 uF and 4 uF, 100V. No idea of the tolerance. I replaced those using 4 uF caps. I simply used one 4 uF cap for the 4 uF replacement (duh! , and paralleled two 4 uF caps to replace the 8 uF. The new caps are 250V (only voltage available and a nice margin anyway) @ 5% (I would expect an improvement here over the old ones, tho I have no idea). Both old and new caps are axial, with the new ones a bit longer. Both sets of caps required new holes to be drilled to solder in the leads. I initially considered using a non-corrosive adhesive, but opted for tie wraps instead. Thru-holes were drilled in the PCB to provide mounting for the tie wraps. Given the caps were now double stacked (and because of the limited space available due to the new the 4 uF and "8 uF" caps grouped into a 3-cap arrangement, so to speak, having to fit into a smaller 2-cap space), I felt the tie wraps would offer better security and stability. Two of the original coils/inductors were constructed on plastic bobbins with a plastic insert pin (and some glue) used to hold the coils to the PCB. One of them came loose somewhere along the way and I was able to use tie wraps, as well. to resecure it to the PCB. I drilled holes in the PCB for this and used the holes already formed in the bobbins as secure mounting points (See last pic). Results of the upgrade - I've been using the upgraded spkrs for a couple of weeks at this point and I have to say I notice a better clarity on the mids and upper range. I sense there is a bit of improvement (maybe more of a restoration) for the low end, but my ears aren't sensitive enuf to really tell. Besides, I have a Klipsch 10", 150W subwoofer to take care of that so I set the receiver LFE crossover to be a bit higher (80Hz vs. 50Hz) to take a bit of the stress off the "woofers" I also detect better sonics out of the spkrs and restored clarity in the "voices" of instruments. Overall, I'm very happy. Total cost was ~$25 and a couple of hours of my time (Tie wraps were "free" cuz I had them in my parts bin So, enuf words. Time for pics. This first pic is the original x-over PCB before I swapped out caps. The 2 orange upright caps on the left side of the board are the 25 uF (left) and 18 uF (right). The 2 burnt orange caps in the center are the 8 uF (left) and 4 uF (right). You can also see how everything(!) is mounted to the front panel. Tweeter is underneath the x-over board. 2nd pic shows the completed upgrade and x-over reinstalled. Note the new mounting holes drilled to accommodate the larger, axial electrolytic caps. Not as obvious are the new holes drilled to accommodate the slightly longer tweeter caps. Pic 3 shows the tie wraps used for the double-stacked electrolytics and how they were oriented to make them fit. This pic shows tie wraps and new lead holes (~1/4" past the old holes) for the 8 uF (left in the group) and 4 uF ("nestled" in on the right) caps. Note that all 3 caps are tied in a group. Here's a pic of my fix for the loose coil. You can see the hole (one on the other side, as well, but out of view) I drilled for the tie wraps.