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Jabber

Found 4 results

  1. If any of you have looked at my other main post, I'm beginning to restore a pair of Speakerlab K horns and have been asking for advice. Since my new digital multi-meter came in yesterday, I decided to go out to the garage to test my existing drivers and tweeter to check for continuity and measure impedance. Tweeter - K-77-M or equivalent (x1) - PASS (measuring about 6.5 ohms (is that right?)) Midrange horn drivers (x2) - EV 1823M - PASS (measuring about 8 ohms each) Woofer - here's where I ran into trouble. One is gone, pulled for some project of @rigma's. The other one has been safely secured in its bass bin since the 70's. When I say secured, I mean SECURED. It was overbuilt in the way of German cars, tanks and aircraft. I believe had these been on the Titanic, you could have pulled them from the sunken wreckage and there's a good chance they would play once drained. I had to remove at least 15 screws that were completely coated in thick silicone and tightened into threaded inserts by scraping them clean, one by one. Then I had to use a razor to cut through even more silicone and get a small pry bar to separate the "access panel" from the bin. That's where I messed up. I should have known. The speaker cable going to the driver had also been still securely soldered to the driver inside, which pulled the little soldering tabs loose from the speaker. Damn. After removing 3 wingnuts, 1 3/4" nut and two wood screws securing the motor board to the cabinet (then prying it loose with said pry bar), the speaker came out. It is a Speakerlab W1500D 4-ohm woofer and seems to be in OK shape (minus my screwing up the connecting tabs). I was able to test it by connecting the multi-meter probes to the little wires coming off the woofer. It does PASS continuity and looks to be reading 4.5 ohms(?) My hands were a little shaky by this point. So, CAN the driver be repaired? Is it WORTH being repaired and finding a similar K-33 or equivalent? How much money did @rigma spend on sealants in 1970-whatever and what is that in today's dollars? These and other questions linger. The line to take shots at me forms to your left. The line for helpful comments, on your right. Thanks!
  2. Hey all. Need some help identifying and sorting out some drivers for rebuild planning purposes. I was graciously gifted these Speakerlab Khorns by @rigma and @MZKITTY a while back, and they are in need of a rebuild. Before I start getting into woodworking with a carpenter friend of mine, I want to make sure I have all my speaker / crossover ducks in a row. Some various parts were stripped from these kit speakers over the years, so here's what I have and what I'm trying to identify. Ideally, I'd like to have a complete set of what I would need to build a 70's era Klipschorn, sound-wise. I have 1 x tweeter. In the pic below it seems to be a knockoff (possibly EV) of a K-77-M. Don't know if it works or not. I have 2 x midrange horns, cast aluminum H-350 Speakerlab brand. I hear they're good quality. I have 2 x midrange horn drivers. They appear to be Speakerlab HD350A's (?) which are equivalent or rebranded EV 1823Ms I believe. Don't know if they work or not. I have 1 x 15" woofer, sealed up in one of the bass bins. I haven't opened it yet, but I suspect it may be a Speakerlab K-33 style speaker, either a W1504S 4-ohm or a W1508S 8-ohm. Not sure if it works, so I may be looking to just get a used pair of K-33 replacements or Crites equivalent CW1526. I don't have any crossovers at all, but I hear the Speakerlab crossovers were the weakest link in these clones, so I'll probably be looking for a used pair of Type A (maybe?) or something. Is there a way to test the tweeter and midrange drivers without a crossover or will I damage them? I'll take all the advice I can get. My plan is to enclose the bass bins sort of Jubilee style and leave them open top (no midrange or tweeter enclosure) and build a small frame to hold the midrange and tweeter. Please see the attached collage for some pics. I'd upload more, but it seems to be limited for now, at least for me at my level. Thanks in advance! Daniel Harrington Murfreesboro, TN
  3. Also looking for peavey fh1.
  4. Hi folks, I have visited this site many, many times as a spectator. I do have a few Klipsch pieces but never had the big boy stuff. Its not a matter of money per-say, but selling the want to the little lady..... if you know what I mean. Anyway, so she moved my man room from a very spacious area the lower floor to the house to a smaller room over the garage. I in turn built up my stereo system the way I want it. I like great speakers from smaller names companies. They are not inferior to any of the competition what so ever. For example I have a set of SAE 10's outstanding sound. I have a set of Chapman ( Small custom speaker company on Vashon island near Seattle) that are some of the best sounding speakers I have ever had, and many more. Well a few days ago I was cruising the local Craigslist and came across another set of locally made speakers I had to have. Mostly due to price. $100.00 !!! They were speakerlab K-horns. So I dashed right over a grab them. The gent tells me they were bought by his dad new, and he didn't think the mids worked. Well I get them back over to my shop clean the pots and found a wire off the mids, ohmed the speakers and found no issues, so I plugged them in and everything works fine but they are not very efficient. It was time to develop a plan. I know I am going to swap out the crossover for a ALK universal set. All though the current crossovers are working and the caps are ok, things could be much better with a little coin and elbow grease. I might look into swapping the mids with Altec 811's or 511's but thats about it. Now for the next challenge. I can't place them in the corner completely because remember this a room over the garage. I have a sloop ceiling and where these are going the ceil t wall is 46 inches. The speaker is 48. So it will be off the wall by 4 to 5 inches. This means I will have to wall back them.
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