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Found 27 results

  1. Hello All, I just wanted to share my experience on dealing with cabinet separation on a pair of Heresy IIs that I had purchased. After purchasing the speakers and getting them home, I had realized that one of the speakers had seam separation on the top right and lower left sections of the cabinet which I believe was caused by being droped during shipping. Since this was resulting in an unsealed cabinet and the possible loss of some of the low end of the speaker, I decided to see what I could do to correct this and possibly make them more sturdy in the process. My first step was to remove the woofer of the speaker and see how these things were built. As you can see by the photo below, these speakers are held together by a small rectangular wooden brace and "squirted" with a fair amount of wood glue to keep the corners together. This piece is what had become slightly detached from the cabinet wall and my focus turned to how best to approach this. After careful consideration, I elected to replace a few of the wood braces with new pieces and use a combination of careful use of screws and strong wood glue to support the cabinet. My hope is that the addition of the screws would be better able to support the cabinet and better hold the integrity of the seal together over time. This was done to the other speaker in order to match any slight variation on acoustics that this could have caused on the one, although I could not tell A/B after doing just the one.
  2. Hello all, I have the Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 THX system like this (amber Klipsch THX badges and power pad incorporated into one of the smaller satellite speakers). These speakers have produced fantastic quality sound, I have loved this system on my PC. It has apparently just lost power (while in use), the green light on the speaker power pad is no longer illuminated. The sound literally just cut out while they were in use, no electrical smells or any weird sounds, it was as if they were simply unplugged. I have always had them on 24/7/365, hooked into my PC. I've owned them for maybe 1.5 years, so not that old. I've done the typically trouble shooting - unplugged/plugged back in, restarted my PC, checked the Windows 10 "manage audio devices/sound" looked to see if the speakers bar was being colorized up/down as audio is played. All to no avail. There's no static/buzzing sound when I plug them into my PC, or that static/buzzing sound when you touch your finger tip on the plug end that goes into your PC. They appear to be completely dead. I plugged in an older set of speakers into my PC and those work fine, so obviously seems to be something with the Klipsch speakers. Does anyone have any tips as to how to trouble shoot this on the Klipsch speakers? It seems like perhaps a fuse has blown? I've opened up the subwoofer and taken some photos of the electronics (imgur.com gallery) It all looks very clean inside, I don't see any signs of any connection being burned or damaged and there was no electrical burning smell when it went out. Can anyone identify where the fuse is on this? I'd like to see about replacing that as the speaker system seems to be power dead. I'm obviously no electronics expert and only know enough to get myself electrocuted. I don't have any electronics troubleshooting equipment, either.
  3. Hello Klipsch wizards! Looking for some insight on a pair of Heresy's that I stumbled on. No joke, these were found in a dumpster and I had no choice but to rescue them. They are in surprisingly decent shape, but after giving them a test drive, there are issues with the woofers. They still sound decent with low volume, but one of the woofers has a bit of a knock/click/rattle when given some extra volume, and the pictures can explain. It's as though the cones in the woofers have sagged? twisted? over time. One worse than the other (the black one). Not to mention, the history tells an interesting story. The two woofers are obviously different, but very similar at the same time, marking wise. One with a raw casing finish and soldered connections, and one with a black finish with obviously newer wiring connections. I want to do this the right way, so the question is: 1. Are these in the category of sending off to be re-coned by the appropriate shop? (I could use some advice on said shop near Indiana) OR 2. Are these in the category of looking into full replacement woofers? Please let me know if additional info is needed, but thank you all in advance for any helpful input! Heresy Photo's -PC
  4. I have a Klipsch R-110SW that blew. Klipsch has sent me a replacement woofer but I do not know how to remove the old woofer from the box and replace it. Surprisingly, there don't seem to be any YouTube walkthroughs of how to do this. Anyone know how?
  5. Don't know if this is the right place to ask, but I purchased my walnut Klipschorns in 1977. I've hauled them through six states in multiple moves over the years and upgraded the drivers and crossovers and such in 1989. Two questions... After the latest move, they've been in storage for the last two years and I'm getting them ready for a new, custom built room. Over time, my wife who doesn't believe these works of art's beauty should stand alone, has adorned them with decorations that have left rings and marks. Regular restoration miracles in a bottle will not remove them and I believe the only true remedy is light sanding. IS THE WALNUT JUST VENEER, AND IF SO, HOW THICK? Second, would you recommend updating the works again. Just before I put them in storage two years ago, they sounded great, but since I'm refinishing, have their been any changes worthwhile since the upgrade in 1989 that would warrant the expense and effort? Thanks for the help.
  6. Hey all, New guy here. I just inherited a set of Chorus IIs that are unfortunately in a bit of a state of disrepair. One of the negative terminals on the system is busted off. Can anyone detail the process I'm going to need to take to repair it? Am I going to have to solder? I already contacted Klipsch support and they put me in contact with a repair shop that does not have the terminals in stock, so is there a generally accepted after market set to use? Thanks in advance!
  7. Hello everyone, I am totally new to the technical aspect of speakers and other audio equipment so bear with me. I have just recently inherited a pair of Heresy II speakers on risers as well as a Denon PMA-737 receiver. I absolutely love the set up and want to keep it for good. So here's the issue: At first everything worked fine and then in one of the speakers the mids/lows started to crackle even at low volumes. It got bad enough that I just unplugged one and used the remaining good speaker. The same thing started to happen to the second one but didn't get that bad until one day there was a quiet pop and all of a sudden the only signal coming out of the good speaker was extremely faint and heavily distorted/crackly. At first I though maybe there was a problem with the signal coming from the receiver, but I plugged my headphones in directly and there was no problem that I could tell; granted I don't know how to do any tests on a receiver. I would prefer to learn how to do this myself but I am also willing to take it to a pro if necessary. So what are some tests I could perform or potential fixes to this? What tools or other materials would I need? Layman's terms are appreciated! I don't even know how to open them up to have a look inside to take pictures for you all so help there would be appreciated as well. I would greatly appreciate any help. Apologies if I overlooked a thread already answering some of this. If no one has the time to discuss in detail, links to helpful resources are an appreciated substitute. Thank you!
  8. I've got recently acquired 1983 Cornwalls with their original cane grills... But they need help. The cane seems intact--no breaks--but is pulled/shrunk so tightly on one of the grills that its curled beyond useable. I'm considering making a press that will gradually flatten them over several weeks; with the grills sandwiched between damp towels (not wet) or maybe occasional misting with a water spray bottle. Once the press is completely flat, I would remove the towels (or stop misting them) and let them stay pressed until they dry out. I'm guessing they won't be perfect, but might flatten enough that the velcro will once again hold them on. The grill frame (is it plywood?) might be the most difficult part. I'm concerned the moisture, over time, may cause the cane to release from the edges of the frame--does anyone know what kind of adhesive was used? Or maybe I'm wrong about the cane slowly stretching under the right conditions? • Anyone know why this might be a bad idea? • Is there a better solution to this problem? • !! Also, does anybody know if the Cornwall III Special Edition uses linen for the grill fabric? The photos on the corporate site sure look like the unprimed, Belgian linen I'm used to seeing used for stretched canvas used by fine-art painters. Curious. That would be an easy fix. Just order the linen from Utrecht. What is it that makes some fabrics sound-transparent and others not? Or are most fabrics a safe bet for sound transparency?
  9. Hello, I've had an SW-12 since 1993/1994. It had been working very well until about two weeks ago. About two weeks ago, it started making two kinds of noises after it gets warmed up for a while, like 6 - 35 minutes. One kind of noise is static-like and the other kind is what I'd call crackling kind (could be the sound of clipping). These noises come on whether any source is connected or not. Until these noises come up, the subwoofer appears to work as good as before. Once these noises start, none of the controls (LEVEL, PHASE, and LOW PASS) has any aural effects on the noises as far as I can tell. I've plugged the power cord of the unit to many different wall outlets in my 2-story house and also with or without my computers, cable modem, router, etc. ON, and the problem shows up anywhere. So, I'm leaning towards ruling out things like ground loop or interference from Wii-fi, etc. as the cause of the problem. Even after the noises show up, the source material keeps getting reproduced as usual. I suspect the problem has something to do with overheating of the amplifier because they don't show up immediately after I turn the unit on. Also, I found one area of the top plate of the plastic cover that covers the amplifier has a sign of getting soft before, but I have no idea when it happened. I have connected the speaker leads inside to a regular speaker and the noises came on, so I'm ruling out the problem lies with the subwoofer's speaker unit. I have cleaned the pots for the controls fairly well, too, so they're probably not causing this problem either. I'm now concentrating on the amplifier. As a starter, I downloaded a service manual of SW-12 and SW-15. It's here: http://www.audiolabga.com/pdf/SW12-15 I.pdf Pages 15-17 are the schematic of SW-12. The top portion of Page 16 (Sheet 2 of the schematic) is the part I'm concentrating on [labeled DRIVER CKT filter driver bd.] now because the location of the cluster of 4 transistors (Q7, 8, 9, and 10) coincides with the previously softened area on the amplifier's plastic cover and also the area on the circuit board these four transistors lie on is not burned badly but dark brown. (Each of these transistors has its own little heatsink, so they are probably known to get hot, but maybe with my unit, they may be getting too hot to affect the performance of other components in the amplifier.) Now, I'm completely clueless when it comes to electronics. I'm hoping that someone here can help me with questions I have about the schematic and electronics in general. Tonight, I removed the amplifier and measured about a dozen resistors' values with the unit turned off without any source signal being fed to the amplifer. Since my multimeter can't test capacitors, I'm not going to mess with capacitors now. Obviously, I don't want to remove any components from the circuit board to take their measurements if I can avoid. As far as I could tell, there were no apparently damaged components or suspicious solder joints. Four resistors caught my attention, though: One is R45 1M. It's first resistor on the DRIVER CKT (on the left on the schematic). When I take a reading, the value is only about 109K. Here is my first set of questions: 1. Do I need to remove at least one end of R45 to get an accurate reading? 2. If it's faulty and I install a good one, would it make any noticeable difference in the circuit? Two other resistors which give different values than the specs' are R74 and R73. Their values should be 2.7K ohms according to the schematic and the parts list in the service manual. My meter reads about 1.42K ohms. Here's my second set of questions: 3. Do I need to remove at least one end of R74 and R73 to get their accurate readings? 4. If they're faulty and I install good ones, would they make any noticeable difference in the circuit? And here's my final question for tonight: 5. If you were tackling this problem, where would you start? Thank you in advance for reading this post and possibly offer some answers/advice/suggestions. Happy Listening! ------------------------------------------------------------- Additional comment: The main heatsink on the back of the amplifier never gets hot. It remain just mildly warm. On the other hand, the small heatsinks on the four transistors on DRIVER CKT get too hot to touch.
  10. I bought this Klipsch subwoofer (KSW-10) new around 1998. It's worked great for 19 years until last month. When I start watching TV or a DVD, I will usually (but not always) hear one or two loud "booms" in succession. It's not a part of the soundtrack. This happens about five minutes into the program but only if the sub hasn't been used that day. I'm getting settled into a show and out of nowhere it sounds like a heavy book hitting the floor from a top shelf. This never happened until recently and I made no changes to settings or setup. No sudden weather changes either. The sub still works, and I haven't heard it happen with music (even with a pipe organ CD.) I did try to turn down the level from '11' (yes, it really does go to 11) to '6'. It still happens and now more frequently. I searched Google, the FAQs and other forum posts and haven't turned up any answers. Has anyone run into this problem before? Thanks
  11. I am repairing a built in home stereo system that uses Frazier speakers in every room. Each speaker is a 12 x 12 x 16 cabinet with an 8" woofer and a 5 x 7 tweeter. The tweeters are the black bell type with alnico magnetics. The tweeters are blown in at least 2 of 12 tweeters, and there are at least a couple more. Knowing that there is a lot of common driver parts between Klipsch and Frazier, I am posting my questions here and in the Frazier sites. Checking the internet I cannot find any diaphragm replacement kits. Are there any available? Next option is I have found some 5 X 7 Frazier replacement tweeter assemblies at a decent price, but the magnetic arrangement is different. Instead of the tall small diameter alnico style magnet under a plastic cup, it has a short large diameter magnetic and no cup. The tweeters are marked on the back with: Frazier F-3x7 N4850-F 114850-F U.S.PAT. 3,898,393 Are these equivalent specs? And what are the differences? Thanks in advance
  12. Cross post, raising visibility to this thread.
  13. I have an RW-10d and the LCD display doesn't come on and if I hook up audio input I hear nothing. The fuse is fine. I took the back plate off and I have 120V AC on the power supply board; However, the CD+ to CD- voltage reads as 0V DC. I presume this means that the power supply is bad. I'd just prefer to replace the entire board if possible. I contacted support and they told me "Unfortunately we no longer have the amplifier for that speaker available. You may need to locate a replacement using a secondary market". Any ideas where I can get replacement parts or what I should try?
  14. Hi, all! Today I've run into a problem with my GFA-535. When I went to switch back to it from a different amp, I noticed an unusual buzz start to come from my subwoofer when I turned it on. Not wanting to risk my Heresies in case something was wrong (glad it has speaker selectors!), I plugged one of my B-10s into the left channel on the other set of outputs. Once patched in, it revealed a loud, nasty static buzz (I also tested the other channel.) It only does it when it has something connected to either input. It could be a bare wire and it happens. I connected my iPhone as a source when trying to single out the amp from the preamp and it still did this, without seeming to react to the signal from the phone. It also seems to certainly cause feedback back through the inputs, as my subwoofer only buzzed when the amp and preamp were connected. Now, a few things that happened recently. First, one of the metal rings surrounding the right channel RCA plug had come out when unplugging it recently, leaving just bare plastic. I always assumed these were cosmetic, since the other one was never there (I received the amp that way) and it was never a problem. I also I believe I plugged the pre back in with the preamp still on (and the amp off). How could I go about diagnosing this, and does it seem like something I could fix myself? I like the 535, and while it would be fun to shop for a new amp, I wouldn't be happy to trash this one. Thanks!
  15. Hello, 2 weeks a go i heard a loud pop in my ProMedia 5.1 system. Does anyone know where i could find a Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 board? Mine recently died. I took it to my friend who is an audio guy and one of the components is burnt, and he said i would probably need to replace the entire board to fix it but he doesn't know where i could get one. He recommended me search online for a board but i cannot find any anywhere. Does anyone know where i can buy one? Do they even make these anymore? My Klipsch Promedia 5.1 lasted a good 13 years. I guess the ride is over, but before i move on, i would like to know if i can get this repaired. I am located in Philly. Does anyone know what i can do? Attached are two files showing the board and the burnt part. If anyone can help me save me beloved Klipsch system I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you.
  16. 8/15/2016: Klipsch RSW-12 Subwoofer Repair by Edwards Electronics (via eBay) Executive summary: 30-day total turnaround (including cross-country shipping), $184.00 total cost, completely fixed. Communication could have been better. Details: I wanted to start this as a new thread so anyone could easily find this thread during forum searches. I have a Klipsch RSW-12 subwoofer that went dead almost two years ago. No lights, no response of any kind. I did all the normal first-line troubleshooting; checked the fuse, wall outlet for power, etc. I gave it a light smack. No success. At that time, I came to this forum and was unable to find any information on troubleshooting, parts availability, nor repairs (I'm not certain how hard I looked), but I darn well wasn't going to throw away an RSW-12 simply because it no longer worked! So I hung onto it hoping one day I could get it repaired. One day I was randomly searching eBay, probably for the keyword "Klipsch" and came across the eBay "Buy-It-Now" repair service specifically listing Klipsch RSW subwoofer repair! Yes! I understand that the seller, eBay handle "edwards-electronics", has eBay listings for all kinds of subwoofers, not just Klipsch, but they (he?) certainly seem to specialize in subwoofer repair. They have an EXCELLENT eBay feedback rating, and even though the price was what I would consider a little pricey ($165 +$19s/h = $184.00), I did appreciate the 'flat-rate' fee (no surprises). I also appreciated that they wanted me to send in JUST the back-panel & the amp assembly, not the entire subwoofer (and we all know who badly shipping a subwoofer speaker can go). Most of all, I was grateful simply to find a repair service for this amp. So, per instructions from Edwards Electronics, I removed the rear speaker and front 'speaker' (passive radiator), removed the rear electrical panel, and the amp assembly from inside the subwoofer (all was easy), and took lots of photos while doing it so I wouldn't have any questions when it came to putting it back together. The entire process only take a single tool; Torx T20 screwdriver. Nothing else. I wrapped the panel, amp, and connecting wires in bubble wrap, and shipped it all via UPS to Mesa, Arizona (residential address, btw). It cost me $24.04 via UPS ground with $300 insurance from Florida. I shipped it on Friday 7/15/2016, and UPS tracking showed it arrived on Thursday 7/21/2016 - 6 days. Other than the UPS tracking, I received no notification from Edwards Electronics. I gave it several days, and sent an eBay message to them on Aug-05 (about 15 days with no word from them) just to verify that they received the amp. I received a response two days later letting me know the amp was probably done. In researching this, I noticed that I did NOT follow the directions he provided to TEXT him if I needed to contact him. In that response, he indicated his 'technician' was out for a couple of days sick. I received an email from PayPal on Aug-10 that the sub was on it's way back to me. Tracking shows USPS accepted the package on Aug-12, and it was sent via USPS Priority Mail 2-Day shipping. I received the subwoofer amplifier back today, August 15th. I looked everything over very carefully (without disassembling anything) and I could not see a single solder repair. But. like I said, there where places I certainly couldn't see, and perhaps the repair involved replacing a complete board or subassembly. I have no idea what was wrong, or what was repaired. there was nothing in the box upon it's return. The original ad indicated that in addition to being repair, it would be updated: "We Will Repair Amp - Upgrade To Latest Specifications - Fix Sound Input / Output Issues - Install Much Better Parts" I have no idea if any of this was done or not. I notice that another eBay repair service also makes mention of replacing some troublesome resistors present in Klipsch subwoofers. I reassembled the subwoofer, hooked it up, crossed my fingers, and turned it on... Total success. The light comes on, and the subwoofer works! I can't speak to any tonal characteristics, as I now live in an apartment, and can't even use this subwoofer at this time (but I fully expect to in the future), but it certainly seems to be working fine, as it did originally. So given that's the bottom line, I'm very happy. I do wish that I had received some sort of notification when they received it so I didn't have to worry, and it would have been nice to have some sort of 'technician repair notes' in the box upon it's return, especially with regard to replacing/updating and troublesome components.
  17. I have inherited a pair of Legend KLF-30s but one of them is barely putting out any sound and it seems to be just from the tweeter. I confirmed it has a good sound signal from the receiver by switching speaker wires around plus I looked inside the enclosure by removing the crossover assembly and do not see any loose wires. They have been in climate controlled storage for 3 years and have been moved only once or twice after initial installation so I don't think it got dropped so as to dislodge a connection but something is broken. I see Crites offers a cross-over repair kit for $80 as well as replacement crossovers for $280 a pair. Is that a good way to go? I am not going to keep them as they are just too big for our place so if I can just solder on a new capacitor from a Crites repair kit that would be fine with me but that seems too simple to be true. I am no technician so I guess I need a repair guy in Houston - anyone no of a good shop? Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
  18. Hello everyone. I bought a 6.1 set of Icon speakers in October of 2008, and last week my XW-500D subwoofer died. There is a little text display on the top, and when I toggle the power switch it will light up for half a second before fading out. It also doesn't go BOOM BOOM BOOM anymore. That has been the extent of my troubleshooting so far. This brick cost a pretty penny back in 2008, but I am not sentimental about it. I was wondering if anyone had recommendations for trying to repair it. Otherwise, I'd like to solicit recommendations for replacing it. My den is 22' x 22', and this would be for exclusively for movies. I am not opposed to moving to a 6.2 setup, if there is any merit to that layout. Thanks in advance for your input! Darwin
  19. Hey guys so recently I got my friend to bring the Klipsch Promedia 2.1 speakers from Canada to here in Pakistan. I was so excited to get them running as soon as they got here. When I brought them home I connected them the usual way. And when I turned on the switch......boom. The electricity flickered and the speakers didn't turn on. I turned around the subwoofer unit observing the rear side of it and then did I realize that it was rated 120V! Whereas here we use 220V. How stupid could I get?! Okay so this is the first time I have got something from US/Canada so I had no idea about the different voltage system. I learned the hard way. Since there is no official presence of Klipsch in Pakistan, and I didn't opt for warranty which would've costed me extra CAD 35 from Amazon.ca, I took the speakers to the repair guy in my area who has fixed my old Logitech speakers and Phillips TV before as well. He tried to fix the speakers but unfortunately couldn't. This is the amp unit: He said the fuse was intact but these 2 components were fried so he replaced them: He did some more soldering and checking with multimeter and all in front of me but the speakers weren't powering on. On some points he was getting readings on his multimeter but not on others (as far as I remember). The repair guy said that this component is damaged (IC?) (highlighted): The repair guy was like I will have to get the replacement part (the whole board as shown in the first picture) from abroad because its not available here in the market. I searched Ebay and did find a few options, but they are either the subwoofer itself or the whole back plate unit. Plus they are really expensive (around $70-$80). Might as well get new speakers from best buy ($125). But even then I don't have anyone coming in from the US. So I wanted to ask if there is any other way I could get these fixed. Maybe the repair guy missed something, or was wrong about something. Need suggestions. Should I try replacing the fuse? I've heard so many good things about these speakers and couldn't even get the chance to hear a single sound from them And they cost me CAD 260! They're just lying here useless in my room.
  20. Hey guys, I'm new here! Long time lurker and I could really use some help from the guru's I've been using my old Kenwood km-209 power amp paired with the kc-209 amp controller to drive my vintage KG4's. The kenwood is rated at 150w although the specifications say 155+155 for both channels and says 'Music Power' Is 310w. Here's the specs: http://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/kenwood/km-209.shtml I ran the volume at about 50% for about 30-35 minutes until I came downstairs to lower the volume for about 30-60 seconds and then powered the system off. When I turned the system off, I heard a pop go through the speakers. It wasn't blaringly loud, but it was loud, and concerned me. I noticed the amp was pretty warm at that time, too. After letting it cool off for about ten minutes I turned the system back on and heard a strange garbled sound coming from the speakers. When I played music through them, the tweeters weren't putting out any sound. I plugged in my EPI's to test, and their tweeters worked, so, I'm pretty sure something happened to my KG4's. Now, I'm a little concerned.. Can't these KG4's handle some juice? I was very skeptical that I might have damaged them with this system. I am also an idiot when it comes to audio equipment so please forgive me, I'm learning. Does anyone find it peculiar that both tweeters would blow exactly at the same time, AFTER I turn the system back on at a low volume? So weird to me. Thank you for your help! Sean
  21. Our Sub 10 has started making a noise that appears to be in the speaker itself but from reading posts, I now feel it may be the amp. I realize that this is very broad and was wondering if recording the sound it makes could help determine if it is the speaker or the amp? The rubber surround on the speaker appears to be perfect.
  22. I've had a pair of Heresy II's since new (late 80's?) and now a speaker post on one has mysteriously broken off. I've looked unsuccessfully online for a local repair shop and replacement part. Please assist if you know where I can purchase the appropriate replacement post or if you know of any repair shops in the Newark/Wilmington Delaware area. Thanks.
  23. I have the KA-1000-THX Amp that just started to buzz, even with the input disconnected. The buzz is not too loud, so I am thinking a capacitor went bad somewhere in the unit. The buzz gets louder when the THX switch is turned off. I open the unit, disconnected the preamp connector from the main amp board, and the buzz stopped, so it looks like either the preamp or the power supply is creating the buzz. Any thoughts? Are schematics available? Are parts available?
  24. Hey all, Thanks for reading. I have a pair of Reference One's with a bum jack. I began the repair process but stopped when I found that, it appears, the universal RBGC wire scheme for TRRS jacks does not seem to appear here, unless I'm going crazy. To my eyes, I've got four copper wires, three of which have been coated with enamel, one is coated in white that I figured had something to do with ground. The real head scratcher is right and left ear. One appears to be blue and the other a greenish/blackish with white running in it. I've scoured the internet for answers with no luck. I've attached a picture, the white/copper is in front, greenish/black/white on the right, blue on the left and the three other copper in back. Any help would be really appreciated. Thanks again!
  25. If the voice coil is rubbing in your Klipsch woofer, don't throw it out yet. Some folks think it means the voice coil is blown or burnt up. It might just be out of alignment. The easy way to tell is look at the spider and see if it has become unglued from the frame. Here is a video showing a detached spider: I am using a gell type super glue. I had it on the shelf. Slow drying epoxy would work too. Here are some pictures I took as I was doing the repair. Cut the dust cap off, and put a couple thick business cards down into the former. This will center the voice coil, and thereby lign up the spider you are about to glue up. Make a way to get the glue in between the spyder and the frame. Without some modifications, this will never work: I used what I had laying around to get that glue in there. Some stirring sticks, some shrink tubing, and some duck tape. What else does a hillbilly need? I applied some heat to bend the stirring stick. Then I cut it off to make it just the right length. Pretend like the glass isn't there. It was impossible to take a picture with my iphone while operating a lighter and holding a stirring stick. Now I cut it off to just the right length. Continued
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