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Found 21 results

  1. ned

    Single k33b

    Hello. I have a single k33 from a 1979 Klipschorn that I don’t need. Measures 3.1 ohms on my home depot meter. Please see photos. Original leads still attached. $60 plus actual postage. Personal check is fine from long term forum members. Please see photos and please ask all questions you have prior to shipping. I replaced it with an electro voice. Functions fine to my ears. Will post another image in next post
  2. Hello, i have a big question, what is the difference between a woofer with a hard suspension against a soft suspension? For example a klipsch kpt 8001 with hard suspension on the woofer vs a klipsch rb 81 lo a soft suspension. Grettings.
  3. So, we got a new cat, (A home theater's mortal enemy I suppose) and he got his claw in the woofer, leaving a cut. I'm wondering if there's any way I can mitigate the damage? Or what the appropriate thing is to do here so it doesn't worsen over time? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!
  4. Hi there! First post here. Just picked up a beautiful pair of KG4s, brought them home... and what would you know my receiver is acting up. I was fiddling with it to try and figure out what was wrong, heard a loud pop, and when I later tested the speakers with a friend's functional Yamaha receiver one of the drivers had no sound coming out. So I'm desperately looking for a K8K Replacement! I have seen threads where people suggest clones, but haven't heard back about any experiences and would really rather keep them OEM. Does anyone have any K8Ks lying around or know where to get some? Worst case scenario, anyone have experiences with whether the 'clones' are up to par? Really want to get these amazing speakers back to working condition. Thanks!
  5. Hello everyone, I bought a couple of Klipsch Heresy I 1972 (Tweeter: K77 Midhorn: K700 plus K55V driver, woofer: K22E alnico NOT RED SURROUND OF H700 Model) They have Type C crossovers but the woofers impedance is 8 ohm. Do I have to change the crossovers on type D or E configuration?
  6. Just bought a Klipsch RSB-6 Sound bar system with wireless subwoofer. Subwoofer paired one time but after a few minutes just cut off. There are no longer any lights on speaker burning. The manual shows a button (to hold down) and a light (which supposed to flash until it pairs and then burns solid). There is no button on this speaker to push. Bottom line, the Woofer is off and cannot get it back on. Another forum says to unplug for a while, then reconnect and also check the connections to ensure nothing had come loose. Done both of those with no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  7. Hi guys , i hope someone,can help me out with the following issue . I have a pioneer receiver Vsx 920 , so nothing special there. I just bought a new Klipsch R-10 SW woofer , and i ran the MCACC to let pioneer fine tune the speakers and new woofer . i have had the adjust knob at the back set to LFE and woofer gain at 40% as seen on picture below. I have set the the "on switch" to "Auto" And let it run..... he detects my speakers , detects the woofer and al well . After running everything and pioneer is ready with the "fine tuning" Then i start to watch tv and i wait..... but the subwoofer wont turn on automatically . then i start up spotify ...no woofer... a movie.....no woofer I have to keep switching the on and off switch to make use of its woofer . I thought maybe its the wrong cable? So i bought a new cable .. Oehlbach Nf subwoofer cable. still nothing , so i bought another cable of Monster subwoofer 400 sw cable. still nothing... I ran the MCACC again... checked the setting...i thought , maybe the volume was to low on the woofer. i noticed it was set to -10 DB ... so i switched it up to 0 DB , but stil no luck. I did a Hard reset on my reciever...and once again let MCACC run its course.... no luck Now im ran out of ideas, what to do....to make it work on auto setting....
  8. I'm new here (obviously--as evidenced by the profile, left of this post... ) I'm in no hurry, but am in the market for some heritage Klipsch to improve my current system. As I read about the different designs--voodoo mystery is keeping me awake at night: 1. Why does a Cornwall, with a 15" driver, extend down to 38 Hz; but, an RF5, with 8" drivers, extends down to 34 Hz? This makes no sense to my small brain. 2. The 15" driver moves more air than two 8" drivers--and I speculate this translates to a difference in the quality of sound produced; but, what is this difference? If I had unlimited funds, I would buy everything and keep what I like. Alas, this is not me. Would anyone care to comment?
  9. Hello all, I recently got a set of Forte's and I love them already. They sound great, but I plan to get the Crite's upgrades soon. I've noticed an issue with the front and passive woofers though.. When I turn the volume up too high (higher than I usually play them) the woofers begin to kind of lose control and become very distorted, they start to shake violently and the only way to stop it is to turn the volume back down. This only happens with vinyl also, not with CDs. The needle/cartridge on my turntable are only about 7mo/1.5years old, respectively. Anybody else experience this or know how I might go about fixing this? This is my first post on here btw, many forums have been helpful to me in the past. I couldn't find a post with this specific problem so I decided I would post it myself. Any help is greatly appreciated!
  10. SW-350 PayPal payment only, asking $200 (Shipping cost to be paid by buyer and shipping from 77096 (approx $30 ground???) Description Bought for home A/V project which never happened, description from website. Been in box for approx. 10 months. Never used, never opened. Klipsch SW-350 is an 8-inch subwoofer that is designed to deliver rich, powerful bass, driven by a Class D amplifier, resulting in high efficiency and low heat dissipation. The fiber-composite cone of this 8-inch subwoofer reproduces bass with exceptional clarity. Frequency response of 31 Hz to 120 kHz, black vinyl finish gives this subwoofer an aesthetic appearance. Model SW-350 MPN 1010438, 23452407 Technical Details Frequency Responses 31 Hz - 120 Hz Sensitivity 111 dB Subwoofer Power 350 watt Connectivity Wired Dimension Width 12.5 in. Depth 17 in. Height 15.5 in. Woofer Size 8 in. More pictures can be provided if requested, but items are all boxed so that might not help very much. ALSO NETWORK GEAR Available: PayPal payment only, asking $300 (Shipping cost to be paid by buyer and shipping from 77096 - approx $10 to $15 ground???) Never Used, Never Powered up. 16-Port Gigabit Ethernet PoE+ Web-Managed Switch with 2 SFP Ports 16 x PoE ports, IEEE 802.3at/af Power over Ethernet (PoE+/PoE), 2 x SFP, 19" Rackmount Model Number: 560931 The Intellinet 16-Port Gigabit Ethernet PoE+ Web-Managed Switch with 2 SFP Ports (560931) is designed to pass both data and electrical power to a number of PoE-compatible devices via standard Cat5e or Cat6 network cables. Equipped with sixteen Gigabit Ethernet ports, all of which support 802.3at/af Power over Ethernet (PoE/PoE+), this switch can power Wireless LAN access points and bridges, VoIP (Voice over Internet Protocol) telephones, IP surveillance cameras and more while delivering network speeds of up to 1,000 Mbps. Power over Ethernet 802.3at The Intellinet 16-Port Gigabit Ethernet PoE+ Web-Managed Switch with 2 SFP Ports supports the IEEE 802.3at protocol and is designed to inject up to 30 watts of power per port. 10/100/1000 auto-sensing ports automatically detect optimal network speeds All RJ45 ports with Auto-MDIX (auto uplink) support Supports NWay auto-negotiation Store and forward switching architecture Full/half duplex operation Supports 802.3x flow control for full duplex mode and collision-based backpressure for half duplex mode Supports jumbo frames up to 10 kBytes Complies with the IEEE 802.3az (Energy Efficient Ethernet EEE) specification Green Ethernet power-saving technology deactivates unused ports and adjusts power levels based on the cable length 512 kBytes buffer memory Supports up to 8192 MAC address entries Supports MAC address auto-learning and auto-aging Includes 19" rackmount brackets Fanless design ideal for silent operation Finally, one more item: PayPal payment only, asking $90 (Shipping cost to be paid by buyer and shipping from 77096 - approx $10 to $15 ground). Never Used, Never Powered up 24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Rackmount Switch Manufacturer: Intellinet; Model #: 524162 The Intellinet Gigabit Ethernet Rackmount Switch, model 524162, offers an array of features while providing superior network throughput. Extreme Flexibility - Twenty-four 10/100/1000 Mbps auto-sensing ports automatically detect optimal network speeds. Extreme Throughput - With a backplane speed of 48 Gbps, there is plenty of performance available for your computers, servers and other networking devices. UPC: 766623524162 SKU: 524162 Brand: Intellinet MPN: 524162 Product Type: Ethernet Switch Power Source: Power Supply Layer Supported: 2 Weight (Approximate): 8.53 lb Form Factor: Rack-mountable Network Technology: 10/100/1000Base-T Brand Name: Intellinet Height: 1.7 Width: 17.3 Depth: 5.1 Manageable: No Compatible Rack Unit: 1U Redundant Power Supply: No Ethernet Technology: Gigabit Ethernet Modular: No Stack Port: No Media Type Supported: Twisted Pair Total Number of Network Ports: 24 PoE (RJ-45) Port: No
  11. I copied my round up post over from this thread, please list any other LaScala mods, threads and parts sources. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/149442-lascala-sonic-detail-improvement-for-only-22098/page-7#entry1926774 My LaScalas are circa 1980 Stock AA crossovers If I want to make improvements or changes in incremental steps, this is what I understand: Based on the above posts, and a conversation (2-3 years ago) with B Crites and the Klipsch factory support guy, the drivers in the LaScala don't wear out under normal circumstances. The capacitors, on the other hand do have an end of life, the transformer and inductor rarely fail (it would probably require an amp incinerating failure to fry the inductor or transformer). First: Update the 3 caps on the AA crossover, from the schematic in the pinned section. Stock: Sonicaps from Crites or others inc Parts Express brand. To me, stock always sounded very good 2x 2uF capacitors 1x 13uF Alternative Crossover update to lower the volume mids by 3db aka 50% decrease in power to Squawker. This is done to flatten the output across the bass and mids? I currently use an EQ to add output at the 400Hz point and rolling off into the up and down freqs from this point. 2x 2uF caps 1x 6.8 uF cap Both of these updates-mods are stand-alone and can be listened to and evaluated without further mods or repairs. Second This step could be either replace the K-77 (matched ?) phenolic tweeters with the Crites CT-125 EV driver with custom Crites Lens and titanium diaphragm. OR Replace the woofer with the Crites stamped Woofer $$, or Eminence Kappa 15C $, also mentioned above is the K-44 Factory $$$ woofer. http://www.parts-exp...-4-ohm--290-459 Both the tweeter and the woofer "upgrades" are standalone changes and require no mods to the crossover or anything else. Third If the K-77 is replaced with the Crites CT 125, as an option after moving to the CT-125.....the crossover point between the Squawker and the CT-125 can be lowered to take advantage of the increased range of the CT-125. Thread on CT-125 topic, one of many? https://community.kl...rs-in-la-scala/ Thread on Crossovers https://community.kl...pgrade-options/ Volti take on LaScala http://www.klipschup...upgrades2.shtml More horns + ALK http://www.alkeng.com/trachorn.html Alethia's take on custom crossovers http://www.aletheiaa...m/Services.html Crossover Options with CT-125: Do nothing leave at 400 and 6,000Hz, replace crossover 400 and 4,500 Hz, somehow modify existing crossover to 400 and 4,500. Forgot to mention the ALK Universal, I'm sure there are others.... The existing crossover may be modified, I don't know how. OR The AA crossover can be replaced with a new A 4500 from Crites http://www.critesspe...00-crossov.html "Problem with this is that the K-55 mid-range driver is pressed really hard to reach 6000hz. It would be much more linear in it's operation if the highest frequencies it has to reproduce were in the 4500hz area." Note: I'm guessing that PK the Designer was aware of this, and perhaps no better option was available than the EV K-77 tweeter, AND OR the mid-range K-55 is so sweet with the voice that it is better to leave as much of the voice as possible on the K-55 up to 400- 6KHz. Maybe if we had the engineer's notes we could know how the decision was made, I'm sure lots of trial and "does this sound better than"........ My opinion the LaScala: PK was a very good audio engineer, everything was done for a reason. Speakers that sound good, sell better. Was the mid range 400-6,000 intentionally boosted to put the human (Female) voice more forward aka Hear the Angels Singing? The K-55 really makes the angels sing. The low end could be better, a design trade off
  12. These were purchased some years back and were installed in an "experimental" Cornwall cab that used Forte horns. These have never been driven hard, and are in like new condition. I have no use for them. Buy my cabinets I've advertised and start yourself building a pair of Cornwalls. Bob carries these for $240/pair new + $25 shipping. I offer them here at $200/pair + $25 shipping - save $40 and get yourself some nice woofers at a discount. These are DUSTY - hence the "discoloration" on the left cone. I accept PayPal. Thank you! Chris .
  13. If the voice coil is rubbing in your Klipsch woofer, don't throw it out yet. Some folks think it means the voice coil is blown or burnt up. It might just be out of alignment. The easy way to tell is look at the spider and see if it has become unglued from the frame. Here is a video showing a detached spider: I am using a gell type super glue. I had it on the shelf. Slow drying epoxy would work too. Here are some pictures I took as I was doing the repair. Cut the dust cap off, and put a couple thick business cards down into the former. This will center the voice coil, and thereby lign up the spider you are about to glue up. Make a way to get the glue in between the spyder and the frame. Without some modifications, this will never work: I used what I had laying around to get that glue in there. Some stirring sticks, some shrink tubing, and some duck tape. What else does a hillbilly need? I applied some heat to bend the stirring stick. Then I cut it off to make it just the right length. Pretend like the glass isn't there. It was impossible to take a picture with my iphone while operating a lighter and holding a stirring stick. Now I cut it off to just the right length. Continued
  14. Hi, This is my first post. I checked other post to see if I could find an answer. I didn't see one so I thought I would ask. I have a pair of LaScala industrial speakers installed at my church. Recently one speaker started losing the lows. At first I thought it completely quit working, but upon further inspection I could hear sound out of the high/mid speaker. This pair has a separate high/mid cabinet and a woofer cabinet. The problem is also intermittent which made it really hard to chase down at first. I am powering them with a QSC RMX 1450 amp. I believe the problem is in the crossover but not sure. I a little over my head. Nothing looks like it has gotten hot or going bad. Any help would be appreciated Thanks, Nick
  15. I'm new here, so bear with me if I'm posting in the wrong place or the wrong way. I recently bought a pair of Epic CF-4s and after about two weeks of pure bliss (man, these are nice speakers), one of my woofers started rubbing. I'm desperately looking to buy a replacement (K-30-KN) woofer. Or, if anyone has found a place that can recone these speakers, please let me know.
  16. I have a pair of Klipsch speakers and I do not know the model and can't see a serial number. They were purchased about 1986. Any ideas? One woofer has been injured and needs replacement. Any suggestions. Thanks for your help.
  17. I am looking for an original, undamaged Chorus II woofer. Tried a pair of Cornwall woofers and the TS parameters are way off, The Chorus II woofer is a serious structure and I want an original to replace the one that got damaged.
  18. Hi Folks I have a vintage pair of herasys. Puling the grill I noticed that the woofers have faded to grey. Is there any treatment that will renew them so they are black and won't crack. I'm the original owner and plan on willing them to family. ) thanks
  19. I have no connection with Parts Express, but this has T/S parameters I've never seen in an 18 before. Maybe it could work as a horn driver? 294-2757 http://www.parts-express.com/prv-audio-18sw2200-2-2-18-high-power-pro-audio-dvc-subwoofer-2-2-ohms--294-2757 Resonant Frequency (Fs)30.95 Hz DC Resistance (Re)1.04 ohms Mechanical Q (Qms)13.32 Electromagnetic Q (Qes)0.24 Total Q (Qts)0.24 Compliance Equivalent Volume (Vas)7.95 ft.³ BL Product (BL)14.11 Tm Diaphragm Mass Inc. Airload (Mms)244.2g Maximum Linear Excursion (Xmax)9 mm Surface Area of Cone (Sd)1,452 cm²
  20. I remember seeing something about this series a while back that now seems interesting… You see, I recently acquired another set of THSR’s. My last pair were THSR-2’s… so I had to build a set of crossovers more-or-less from scratch but adding the tweeter was easy (the THSR-2 uses the HII cabinet/motor board with only a small piece of ply covering the tweeter cut out). My new pair are the original THSR which came with a nice fully built E crossover but do not contain the cut out for the K77 tweeter in their HI cabinet/motor board. Because of this I’ve been going back and forth on what exactly I want to do with these… I could try to route out the opening myself but I’m not all that confident in my routing abilities? I’m also not a huge K77 fan and that is really the only thing that could possibly fit in that space. I also thought about just setting a tweeter of my choice on top but I would really prefer to keep the system self contained. Which is where the Beta comes in… I know I wouldn't exactly be using it for its intended purpose but it would allow me to add a tweeter without modifying the cabinet and the woofer doesn't spec out to be a bad K22 replacement? I guess I’m just looking to see if anybody thinks this coaxial woofer idea is crazy or not?
  21. Hi there, I'am looking for 15" radiators for my KP 4000. For now I'am using 15" burned ciol speakers and cut the magnet from the basket. It works but I'am not so happy with it. Is there someone ho can help me with a manufacturer who can deliver 15" rubber surround radiators, or perhapes an other solution for me has. Kind regards Arjan
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