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Found 4 results

  1. First of all, good day to you! and please can you give me a hand?. Join my journy with this subwoofer (not native language, sorry for any mistake): Right after the warranty ended this subwoofer started to fail, first it started making a noise when turned ON, like a grounding or false contact for a few seconds and then it was silent and working fine but at random moments started to do the same sometimes i had to turn it off because it started to do it loud (always jumping from quiet to loud at random, the noise not the audio, i found it on youtube with the word "rattling sound" but no pops or anything else) after a few weeks this got worse and one day after turning on the Sub it went Off seconds later, the only way to turn it back ON was disconnecting the power cord and plug it in again. I took the subwoofer to fix on the same place i bought it, they fixed and told me it was the power supply and 8 months later (since last week) im having similar issues but not that bad, this time it does this noise when i turn it ON after being Off a few hours and just for a few seconds and never again. Since they told me it was the power supply and the place is 2hs away from my home (the fix was expensive too)... i decided to open the damn thing myself and check for a bad capacitor or something since i know how to replace components and since is doing something similar from last time (before the fix) i figure the solution could be the same, well i took a look at the board and i couldn't find anything looking bad (only yellow stuff I believe is glue that came from factory and some brown stuff from the same thing, the heat turned the yellow to brown?), so i decided check on the back of the board soldering marks and replace some of the same components to test and also clean the pcb from the flux they have used. Looking the components i saw only two capacitors that looked like discolored (from heat maybe?) and decided to replace this two only to test, results: Both 22uf 50v were replaced with 22uf 63v Then powered the Sub and voila! the quiet to loud random noise stopped but still does some low noise went i turn it ON from a few hours of having the Sub unplugged (check the video): https://youtu.be/lvhrqyqhzuA https://youtu.be/0CSbTVZGDJ8 Now the sound level remains low and last just a few seconds (10-20) and remain on the same sound level, it doesn't go from quiet to very loud at random so i assume im on the right track. After this wall of text (sorry) can you give a hand and tell me which component could be causing this or if i could fix it myself just replacing capacitors? if yes is ok to use capacitor with a little higher V but same uF? Is hard to get the exact same. Already contacted klipsch support but it said 7 days... maybe someone here got the same problem and found a way to fix it?. Here some pics. http://imgbox.com/g/sBh24N9I1y EDIT: I found a picture for what it seems a leaked capacitor but is just the yellow glue burned brown i think, this is a pic from a R115SW model.
  2. My KLF20s have a 1.25 uF cap. Nobody seems to have this value. Crites claims to use Sonicaps in his upgrades kits but Sonicap website doesn't list this value. Paralelling 2 caps to get close to 1.25 seems to be expesinsive. Do you replace with 1.2 or 1.3 uF? There is also a 8mF electrolitic in the woofer circuit.. again hard to find in a "audio grade" cap. Replace with 8.2? thanks guys and gals
  3. Anyone tried this new capacitor that Jantzen has designed specifically for tweeter and mid sections of a passive crossover? http://www.jantzen-audio.com/alumen-z-cap/ I have a pair on the way to try with Crites tweeters in my La Scala project. Mids will be next if these work out.
  4. I have inherited a pair of Legend KLF-30s but one of them is barely putting out any sound and it seems to be just from the tweeter. I confirmed it has a good sound signal from the receiver by switching speaker wires around plus I looked inside the enclosure by removing the crossover assembly and do not see any loose wires. They have been in climate controlled storage for 3 years and have been moved only once or twice after initial installation so I don't think it got dropped so as to dislodge a connection but something is broken. I see Crites offers a cross-over repair kit for $80 as well as replacement crossovers for $280 a pair. Is that a good way to go? I am not going to keep them as they are just too big for our place so if I can just solder on a new capacitor from a Crites repair kit that would be fine with me but that seems too simple to be true. I am no technician so I guess I need a repair guy in Houston - anyone no of a good shop? Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
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