Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'hum'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Klipsch Announcements
    • Klipsch News
    • Klipsch Pilgrimage 2019
    • Klipsch Website & Forum Info
  • Klipsch Museum of Audio History
    • Klipsch Museum: News & Announcements
    • Ask the Historian
    • Klipsch Museum: General Discussion
  • Klipsch Audio
    • General Klipsch Info
    • 2-Channel Home Audio
    • Home Theater
    • Subwoofers
    • Architectural
    • Klipsch Pro Audio
    • Technical/Modifications
    • Headphones
    • Personal Music Systems
    • Talkin' Tubes
    • Solid State
  • The Klipsch Joint
    • Garage Sale
    • Lounge

Calendars

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Location


Interests


My System


See My System


Website URL


Twitter


Skype


AIM


Yahoo


MSN


ICQ


Jabber

Found 7 results

  1. This is my first and only post on a very old and kinda sad topic, but as I looked for my solution I realized that there might still be some interest in solutions as well as my perspective (I'm a retired electrical engineer). To say that the KSPs are not a part of Klipsch's "greatest moments" might be an understatement. This series has been fraught with issues revolving around the amp for the 15" subs since their introduction. Suspect many owners have either given-up, swapped in another amp into the KSP's carcass, or parted ways with them! Some, like me, may have persevered and actually solved their problems. I have gone through several iterations of a re-build on mine over the years and had to do so without the benefit of a schematic; which I now have thanks to one being posted online by a kind member of this forum as well as writing to Klipsch directly and obtaining a copy. It would have been invaluable on my earlier rebuilds which involved replacing OP amps as well as the power transistors. Hum was only a nagging, intermittent issue partly solved by the deletion of the ground lug on the power cords. This is an extremely POOR solution to a ground loop problem that Klipsch should have seen coming. Granted, when new, my KSPs did not hum with the ground intact, but that issue really reared its head as they got older. OK, so what did I find that might help someone else? First, you do not need to be an electrical engineer or electronics tech to bring these speakers back to life w/o a hum! But, you better be damned good with a 40 watt solder pencil! The great news is that all the parts you need can be had on Ebay... probably cost $40 total for both speakers and I have extras of many parts. You can "cherry pick" which parts you try, but I suggest all of these or you may not solve the issue or may have to go in again just to save a few bucks. The amp design is marginal at best. These components are really under-sized as spec'd by Klipsch and I will get into that. Also, be VERY, VERY mindful that the tracings on the circuit board are meant for initial assembly by Klipsch and are easily torn from the circuit board. You may remove a capacitor (for example) and install a new one and flow solder that appears good only to power-up and nada! Visually verify that the trace copper on the board is still there and verify each connection with a multimeter. I used the extra lead length of the new components to "bridge" to the nearest circuit path. This is especially true of power transistors and regulators. Ok...the meat: Replace C4 & C15 6800 uF electrolytic capacitors with bigger (if possible) and 100V rated. I found 10,000uF @100v in 35 x 70mm package- audio quality 4pcs for $29 on Ebay. 80V rated caps have barely 12% "headroom". No wonder they puke their guts in short order. Ditto for C3 & C5 rated at only 25V and C9 & C10 rated at just 16V. I replaced with 35 V for the few pennies they cost over their predecessors. While I was at it, I replaced 7812 & 7912 with L7812CV and L7912CV rated @ 1.5 amps ea. I believe original plain 7812 & 7912s are rated at just 1 amp. Replaced D1 with a 50V bridge rated at 1.5 amp vs. 1 amp incumbent. Just a side note.....My 55" Samsung TV as well as tens of thousands of other Samsung models had a chronic failure where they would not turn on every time after often less than a years use! They used measly 16V electrolytics which failed almost their entire model sequence of big screen TVs when the solution would have been to install even 25V caps. Space was NOT an issue. They saved probably a dime per TV set sold. The denied most repair claims and just google Samsung TV won't turn on to get a scope on the size of the issue. Sure, a 16V cap in a 12V environment *should* work......YMMV. Emphasis on should. One power surge and these marginal components give-up the ghost in everything electronic. All to save $.05 times a 100,000 units sold and failing.... Kinda puts the price on brand reputation IMO. I digress. The parts are so easy to find and cheap the point is not "why" should I replace them, but why not? I did both speakers for around $40 total in parts and I will not have to worry anymore unless output transistors go again...But, at 65 years of age, I rarely risk my ear drums any more 😃 Also cured my "auto" light being on with no drive from my receiver. I cannot reiterate enough that after un-soldering and re-soldering components on these boards that you absolutely verify that the original circuit board foil remains intact. If there is any doubt, use new component legs as "hardwire" to make sure connections are maintained. Just because your solder bead may look shiny and bright, does not mean there is any foil left under the solder bead to make connection "go anywhere". Really hope this helps someone. I tried to attach the schematic pdf here, but keep getting upload error. Maybe I lack privileges. File is only 780kb?? May try in a sep. post. KSP-400 Service Manual PDF.pdf
  2. Just picked up a RSB-14 and 2 minutes after powering up the sound bar, I hear a constant hum or static sound. Very noticeable when I mute it. I have reset it, tried every input. Changed HDMI cable. Tried a different wall power outlet. Makes no difference. I assume this is not normal and wondering if anyone else has experienced this. I have attached a sound file (.m4a) if interested in hearing it. Any suggestions, besides returning it? Thanks in advance. Klipsch RSB-14 humming (22JUN18).m4a
  3. Hi everyone, I just purchased a Klipsch R-115SW subwoofer. I also have a SVS PB-13 ultra that I've kept right next to the Klipsch for testing. I ran some tests and the Klipsch sounded louder and more punchy, to my surprise. However, after a few tests I noticed the Klipsch was emanating a hum noise. After doing some experimenting here's what I know: 1) When the Klipsch is on and not connected to anything it does not hum 2) When the Klipsch is on and ANY audio connector is connected to it, it will hum, even if the audio connector is not connected to the receiver! 3) If I take the exact same audio connector and plug it into the SVS I have no hum from the SVS. The Klipsch's power plug only has 2 prongs and no ground level. The SVS cord has a ground level. It seems to me that the Klipsch's input ports are overly sensitive or defective. The hum is very loud at max volume and does get quieter as the sub's gain drops. However, the hum only vanishes once the sub's gain is 0. Please help, I really like this sub and I don't know how to fix it! Thanks, Prem
  4. Hi, all. It has been a while since I have been on our forum. I have a vintage quad system using LaScala’s for front channels and Heresy’s (not sure model, so posted what I saw on back of speakers) from 1989 as rears. They sound great, but today when I was troubleshooting another issue (which was user error in that I had not changed the the input on dbx 200x boxes) I detected a slight buzz in both rear channels when I put my ear to the front of the speakers. Not noticeable with music playing, but troublesome to ponder. I thought it my be my sub from HT system (separate setup), but I unplugged it and still have issue. It is in both speakers, but not in front channels. I do not crank these and the rears are usually less loud than the fronts. Any idea what is going on? Thanks for any help or advice! I like to take care of things, so hope to figure out the issue. I love my klipsches, by the way, so hopefully on this forum people appreciate these speakers and don’t disparage them (it appears not everyone is a fan- too bad for them). My vintage system is comprised of Sansui 9001 receiver, Q8 player, 2 dbx 200x switcher box things, 2 dbx SNRp1’s, and technics demodulator. Thanks again for any insight. Laura
  5. I recently picked up a pair of klipsch R-15PM and I am getting a terrible hum when I switch it to the input to play my record player (Audio-Technica-LP120-USB). I have tried it while using and not using my preamp. I've tried it grounded to the preamp and tried it just grounded to the speakers. The hum is there when nothing is plugged into the input as well (noting hooked into the speakers, but set the input to phono). The hum does get louder when I hook everything back up, the hum gets louder as I increase the volume and makes using my record player to listen to anything impossible. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions? or if the speakers might just be defective? (I returned my first set, because of the same issue and this new pair is doing the same) They work fine when using bluetooth as an input. There is no noticeable hum and I didn't have this hum issue before getting the Klipsch speakers. I was previously using my preamp and a set of old desktop Bose 2.0 companion speakers (10 or more years old), but they finally died on me. Thanks for any suggestions
  6. Hey forum! I could use a little help trying to solve a problem I recently got with my ProMedia 2.1 desktop speakers. I've had these speakers for about 8 years now and they've been great. However, a few weeks ago I decided to move my desk to the other side of my room, and when I hooked up my speakers, I heard this loud constant hum coming from my left speaker, even with the volume all the way down (not a crackle but a steady hum). At one point, it got so loud that I could smell the speaker burning, so I unplugged the 3.5mm cable from the back of the speaker and left it alone. A couple days ago, I decided to look more closely, and I noticed that when I plug in the black and red wires into the Left Satellite +/- output, there was a bright spark and the hum returned. I tried swapping wires and speakers, and it's definitely the Left Satellite +/- only. I couldn't notice anything wrong from the outside, and I checked the fuse accessible from the outside as well as the two fuses on the inside, and they look fine. I also looked around in the inside to see if I could see any loose wires or burnt pieces, and everything looked good. I tried moving my speakers back to the outlet on the other side of the room that it was on previously and it still occurs. I would really love to continue using these speakers so it would be great if I could fix this. Thank you so much!
  7. so came across this. A 60hz harmonic line filter. what does it do? filters ac ? how? only allows 60hz to pass thru the filter. basically a giant low frequency sub sub woofer filter in design. does it work? seems to. trannies don't buzz anymore and motorized devices don't squeal at high rpms , so yes it works. this one is a 14 amp times 3 440V capable one...it can do three phase. but easy to adapt to single phase 120 or two 120 phases off of 220/240. main thing to remember is to wire as a sub panel....you will need to add a ground bar and a floating neutral bar. and put it in a box so your cat doesn't get electrocuted. duh...welcome to the new forum...pic wont up load..
×
×
  • Create New...