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Found 7 results

  1. Mostly mid 1970s Heresy I, IIs, LaScalas, Belle and Klipschorn maintenance, sealing, and placement questions Hello Folks: Mostly mid 1970s Heresy I, IIs, LaScalas, Belle and Klipschorn maintenance, sealing, and placement questions I have been reading many of the old, sometimes 20 year old posts. Many of the project and photo links no longer work . Moved into my new house. 1890s, hardwood floors 12-14 foot ceilings and 14 x27 ft main room plus 11 x 14 foot bedroom. Higher floor moldings than the K horn rear cutouts. General questions, some of which I am only asking due to the high cost and / or limited ability to get parts. Pre COVID, I would likely just do these. On all speakers, but do the big boys first: check all caps and replace the spam can caps on all of the larger speakers that were not previously replaced about 15 years ago, post Hurricane Katrina. Should I just contact Bob Crites? I will assume the crossovers, either original Klipsch or ALKs that I built when he sold the kits years ago are otherwise ok. I know I have a LaScala with a blown tweeter. Which replacement is suggested and will xover changes be required? I do have some baby butt JBL tweeters. Not sure if ok with the xovers. Should all cabinets be opened to check seals, gaskets and snug placement of woofers, mids, and tweeters? Re-gasket and reseal as needed – what do folks suggest for replacement gaskets / seals? Or: if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it? Should “O” rings between Alnico or KL drivers and various Klipsch horn components be replaced? If so, with what – just red rubber 25 cent plumber’s O rings? I have never opened any of the large speaker woofer panels / dog houses, etc. I have owned all speakers for about 15-34 years. FWIW I do have 1 set of wooden horn with 1 inch throats I think for the Khorns and a set of JBL radial horns of similar size (still looking for the drivers, lost in a box someplace). Old place had uneven stone floors and crumbly brick walls on 3 sides, plus roof leaks. 17 x 40 uniroom with high sloped ceiling (about 12-17 ft high) and good acoustics. New main room is much smaller, rectangular and without any carpeting or treatments is sonically very harsh. None of the 4 large outside windows work anymore – sealed shut long ago. No idea for the age or “firmness” of the existing plasterboard or drywall, but likely before the 1980s. I do not want to mess the place up making additional 4 x 4 ft 1 in thick plywood wall corners and triangle above the floor to brace things better. This would also likely require screwing the 4 x 4 s above the existing baseboards and floor. For sealing the khorns into a corner, the issue for me is that the baseboard is a few inches taller than the lower Khorn cutout. Should I make some cuts onto the Khorn or simply cut some strips of 1-2 inch wide x 1-2 inch thick pieces of wood and use foam pipe insulation or door seal around them and the rear of the Khorn to make a wall seal on the sides? Some great old posts with pics, like Garyd9 on 2 22 2004 (and many others): https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/37435-sealing-bass-bin-of-khorn/page/2/. Includes the wood corner braces too. I did not find a consensus on how to seal the top few inches or the bottom few inches in the center rear of the K horn woofer cabinet against the vertical wall corner. Suggestions? For sealing any of the large speakers to the floor (not the Heresy’s I guess) these seem to be representative posts: HDBRbuilder had several posts emphasizing the use of grippers, from Jan 7, 2009: Dr. Who: I would like to remind that if it is NOT grippers, then it may NOT have the same effect. Grippers are peel and stick 1/4" thick NEOPRENE with a traction enhancing non-stick side, which will "squish" somewhat under weight and give a better stability on SMOOTH-SURFACED floors which are slightly uneven. Groomlakearea51Posted March 14, 2007 Yup, pipe insulation works perfectly; You can also use 1/4 size (also comes with the "peel off" tape for the sticky edge). To seal to the floor.... I replaced the factory metal gliders (they will tear up a hardwood floor....) with teflon "gliders", but used more of them, including three "inboard" in the center; then used a piece of 3/16" thick x 3/4" wide closed cell foam weather stripping, but did not peel off the the "floor" side "sticky" cover. Slides around perfectly. Cheap to replace after several "move out for spring cleaning" moves that will tend to wear it off. I'm also debating about doing the same thing on the edges instead of pipe insulation next time around. Easier to trim and gets them very close to the wall. My humble Qs: since the 100+ pound LaScala, Belle, or Khorn is technically on small pieces of squished slightly pliable material, is it really “nailed” to the floor? I found some Scotch 8 gripping pads, 1.5 in diam at Home Depot for about $5.00, SP940-NA, 0-51141 59807-9 bar code. I also looked at some of the kitchen drawer liners at Walmart: https://www.walmart.com/search?q=drawer+liner. Could something like these do the trick? Mostly under $1 per foot. How easy or difficult is it to extract those small metal gliders from the factory? I can see doing this with the grippers and the LaScalas and Belle as 2 folks could move the speakers into place with only mildly destroyed finger tips and knuckles at worst. But why not just remove the metal gliders and place directly on the floor with maybe a few pieces of paper or cardboard or those floor sample freebies from Home Depot or Lowes stuffed under a corner to prevent any issues from uneven hardwood? Or even a few pieces of thin wood directly under the corners or fully under the outer floor edges of speakers and using foam or gasket to seal air around the corners and just leave the metal gliders in place? As for the Khorns, doing the grippers plus sealing the rear woofer cabinet to the wall corner will be a real problem so as not to mess up the floor and our hands. Since folks agree not to place the Khorns on a carpet (carpet plastic bottom to the KH bottom), I was thinking of using very thin wood strips above the floor, maybe ¼-½ in thick. For example, just cut to needed length: from Lowes: ReliaBilt 1/4-in x 2-in x 4-ft Square Unfinished Poplar Board Model #POPSRL142SU04 $3.04 Seems cheap and easy. Could use multiple wood strips both to move the speakers in and out and seal the air around the KH base similar to the vertical corner walls (adding a touch of foam at the triangle corners). Likely a major finger saver too. The metal sliders could be left in place. Would folks foam or weather strip seal the KH bottoms to the floor (if it could even be done) to prevent any movement through the “cracks”? Thx From NOLA with love
  2. Question on room size and potential modifications regarding Klipschorn speakers Hello Folks: (Hope this is the correct Forum) I live in New Orleans and I am thinking of buying a house (finally). So where to place my “babies”? Top contenders so far: One place had 2 adjacent rooms that were roughly 13 x 13 feet. Not certain of ceiling height, perhaps 11-12 feet. Just a divider that juts in about 18-24 inches on both sides and the top. I would likely not be inclined to take out the mini divider here. So, in a sense, a 13 x 26 foot room. Would do corner horn (3 ft width), space (2 feet), Belle or LS for center (about 2.5 ft), space (2 ft), corner horn (3 ft). Would likely have to put electronics to the side and turntable too. LS rears (I have 4 in place in NOLA now and 2 more LS2s elsewhere). No clue yet where subwoofers would go. No ATMOS set up nor receiver for it (yet…LOL). Would put couch or chair(s) just behind cross point of Khorns (I think). Rt triangle h = ab/c =81/13 = 6.23 ft, or c/2 = 6.5 ft. So the couch or chairs fit in the room with the Khorns. Not sure how far back to put the LSs, if it matters. Other place is larger, but it is more complicated My measurements were different vs realtor in part due to fireplaces and also the built in tables and bookcases in the foyer side of the living room. Etc. My measurements are true usable space. Ceiling height about 12’6” in both rooms. About 9’6” through the divider Usable width is 15’ 5” or so in the dining room and 14’ 6” max or so in the living room. About 75 inches through the divider. Length: about 15’5” in the dining room and about 14’5” in the living room. Main issue, I think is the room divider with roll out doors between rooms. These take up about 48-56 inches per side (due to doors jutting out about 8 inches per side) and 43-47 inches at the top (variation due to architectural moldings). It is a great house and as a “guest” in this 170 y o house for the next 20-30 years (if I am lucky), I would prefer not to cut into or cut out the partial partition at the sides and top. Not sure which room would get the Khorns, but likely the living room up against the front wall and windows. Couch or chairs would be about 7.5-8 feet back. LSs would be in the dining room I guess, but unless placed a few feet to the center of the room, or angled in towards the couch, would I just end up with an acoustic “hot mess”? Is this how folks would do it, please see diagram (approx scales for Khorn, Belle, and LaScala cut outs)? Thx in advance From NOLA with love Possible set up for Khorns Belle and LaScalas at 813.ppt
  3. UPDATE as of August 1, 2020 — WHAT'S WORKED SO FAR: I have replaced both crossovers, care of Bob Crites. Instant improvement, but still didn't sound right. Then I switched from the 4 ohm taps to the 8 ohm, which changed the sound utterly (see my June 27th post). I have just ordered some sound absorption panels for the ceiling (12 square feet, to start), and some Nicetown Sound Absorbing Curtains (the ones with inner felt lining). I'll report on the effectiveness of these after I install and test them. ___________________ [ORIGINAL POST:] I have been given a pair of 1976 Khorns by my father. I can tell that they will sound out of this world, especially (I hope) paired with my McIntosh 240 (also from dad, 45 years ago). But initially, upon setting them up, the high and possibly the middle frequencies are washy, messy, and shrill -- painful to hear (at least at loud-but-not-harmful volume). The Khorns are replacing my Heresies, which had none of these problems with the same configuration (same components and inputs). I've done a little reading on this forum, particularly here: and here: ...and these posts have helped me suspect a few issues with my set up. (Also, see pics.) My room is small: 15'x10', with a 7'-6" ceiling and four windows. No option to change rooms. ("SWMBO" and I have a small house, causing me almost to say No, thank you, to the offer of free Khorns. Then I slapped myself and said, Yes, thank you, O mighty father; I will make it work.) There are plenty of reflective surfaces: hardwood floor, plaster walls, windows, a few hanging framed (mix of glass and plexiglass) posters. There is hardly any unobstructed wall space. Can't help this, as this is my home office, and I work in it professionally (nowadays full-time). The Mc240 is right next to the right Khorn (with restricted options to move it). Next to the Mc240 is the tube preamp, a Counterpoint SA 3.1 (actually paid my own money for it, used). I don't understand any of the technical specifications that Chris A cites in his discussion on different amps with Khorns. I do understand what a reverb effect is. But details elude me: Is the Mc240 Class A or Class Z? High or low output impedance? Is its "first watt power" more than, less than, or equal to 1 watt?... If the "Com" speaker terminal on the Mc240 (manual says "Com" = Common) corresponds to the black Khorn terminal, then I got the polarities right. I am currently using the 4 ohm terminals, and haven't yet tried 8 or 16. As you can see in one of the photos, the left Khorn is currently cornered between a wall to the left, and a steam radiator to the right (you can see it peeking out). I will remedy this by removing the radiator. I also plan on sealing the Khorns into their corners with closed-cell foam. Funds are limited. High effectiveness-value-to-lowest-cost ratio needed. I would love some suggestions. My goals are modest. I'm already happy with the bass extension, and I can tell that if I remove the radiator, it will deepen, and I have faith that sealing the corners will tighten the bass. If I can eliminate the audible distortion and get as much detail as the Heresies gave, I will be ecstatic. I've read about remedies such as wrapping the upper horns in (something...?), and/or adding sound diffusing or absorbing panels in specific places, that can help clean up the sound, but I don't know what materials these remedies would involve. I'm handy with a screwdriver and wire strippers, but my skills end there. (I've dabbled with hammer and nails, and even used a staple gun once!) Good karma in advance to any who can give aid to this worthy cause.
  4. My location is Sapulpa, Oklahoma, which is near Tulsa. This is a set of Klipschorns with consecutive serial numbers.The original owner stained the wood a cherry color. It was originally walnut. If the buyer desires, the speakers also come with matching false corners. $3000 cash.
  5. I have owned these speakers for many years but am trying to identify the type, year of manufacture and other details about them. Pics attached. Thanks in advance for any help.
  6. I'm going to break this thread into four sections, the 5.0 setup, RF-83 vs Khorns, the RS-62's, and bi-amp. I am of the opinion that passive bi-amping works but the sound differences are minute. I intend to bi-amp the RF-83's with the Marantz expecting to confirm that theory. +++ I picked up a nice RF-83 package last week for a good price. RF-83, RC-64, and RS-62. Power is by the Marantz SR-6011. Thank you @jwc. I've got Khorns, CF-4's and some other nice speakers, but the WAF for the giant speakers is very low. The RF-83's are much higher on the WAF scale. After having the Khorns in the living room in a 3.1 to 5.1 configuration I didn't know if I could take less good sounding speakers. The RF-83's probably suffer technically, but in terms of pure fun the RF-83's with their mid-slam is proving to be "good enough" and they are much nicer looking in the living room.
  7. Here for sale 2 midrange drivers with horns The drivers are Beyma CP750ND 2 inch The horns are 2 Eliptrac Horn 400 from Fastlane Usable frequency range is 400-18000 Khz and also 2 levitation base in birch plywood (As bonus I can apply veneer if we agree on type) It was used in 2-way system For Jubilee Klipshorn La scala upgrade projects New cost 1600 usd I'll sell it for 1200. If you need more pictures just let me know I sell it because i want to go with low mid sata horn otherwise it is extremely well sounding horn. I can accept reasonable offers too. Condition is mint. (i would say on drivers not more than 500-600 hours of gentile home use) The horns are made of MDF and covered with white primer so you can apply any color you like. For all details please write me at anton.dedikov@gmail.com
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