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Found 8 results

  1. Just picked up a RSB-14 and 2 minutes after powering up the sound bar, I hear a constant hum or static sound. Very noticeable when I mute it. I have reset it, tried every input. Changed HDMI cable. Tried a different wall power outlet. Makes no difference. I assume this is not normal and wondering if anyone else has experienced this. I have attached a sound file (.m4a) if interested in hearing it. Any suggestions, besides returning it? Thanks in advance. Klipsch RSB-14 humming (22JUN18).m4a
  2. First of all, good day to you! and please can you give me a hand?. Join my journy with this subwoofer (not native language, sorry for any mistake): Right after the warranty ended this subwoofer started to fail, first it started making a noise when turned ON, like a grounding or false contact for a few seconds and then it was silent and working fine but at random moments started to do the same sometimes i had to turn it off because it started to do it loud (always jumping from quiet to loud at random, the noise not the audio, i found it on youtube with the word "rattling sound" but no pops or anything else) after a few weeks this got worse and one day after turning on the Sub it went Off seconds later, the only way to turn it back ON was disconnecting the power cord and plug it in again. I took the subwoofer to fix on the same place i bought it, they fixed and told me it was the power supply and 8 months later (since last week) im having similar issues but not that bad, this time it does this noise when i turn it ON after being Off a few hours and just for a few seconds and never again. Since they told me it was the power supply and the place is 2hs away from my home (the fix was expensive too)... i decided to open the damn thing myself and check for a bad capacitor or something since i know how to replace components and since is doing something similar from last time (before the fix) i figure the solution could be the same, well i took a look at the board and i couldn't find anything looking bad (only yellow stuff I believe is glue that came from factory and some brown stuff from the same thing, the heat turned the yellow to brown?), so i decided check on the back of the board soldering marks and replace some of the same components to test and also clean the pcb from the flux they have used. Looking the components i saw only two capacitors that looked like discolored (from heat maybe?) and decided to replace this two only to test, results: Both 22uf 50v were replaced with 22uf 63v Then powered the Sub and voila! the quiet to loud random noise stopped but still does some low noise went i turn it ON from a few hours of having the Sub unplugged (check the video): https://youtu.be/lvhrqyqhzuA https://youtu.be/0CSbTVZGDJ8 Now the sound level remains low and last just a few seconds (10-20) and remain on the same sound level, it doesn't go from quiet to very loud at random so i assume im on the right track. After this wall of text (sorry) can you give a hand and tell me which component could be causing this or if i could fix it myself just replacing capacitors? if yes is ok to use capacitor with a little higher V but same uF? Is hard to get the exact same. Already contacted klipsch support but it said 7 days... maybe someone here got the same problem and found a way to fix it?. Here some pics. http://imgbox.com/g/sBh24N9I1y EDIT: I found a picture for what it seems a leaked capacitor but is just the yellow glue burned brown i think, this is a pic from a R115SW model.
  3. Ionewolf

    Squeaky RC-62ii

    Hello fellow Klipsch users, Does anyone had an issue with their Klipsch RC-62ii Center Speakers? I have one for like 3 months now and whenever its playing some deep bass on it I hear a noise something squeaky/rattling. First I noticed it while I'm watching a movie, then tried to play some jazz music on it hoping that that noise is only from the movie however, the squeaking still persist. I'm thinking maybe there's rattling/squeaky something on my home, but then I tried to play Stereo (RF-82ii) and I never hear this squeaky rattling noise. I even took out the center speaker from the TV stand to an open space to isolate it from other items and check if the squeaking/rattling is really the center speaker, still, the squeaking/rattling is there. I took a video of this noise while playing some bass test on youtube which I have linked below. With all that being said, I'm wondering if I need to send it back, how's the Warranty work on this? I'm adamant of not sending it back To Frys (where I bought it) since it's too far from me. Can I just bring it to some Klipsch authorize seller near me like Bestbuy/Magnolia? Squeaky RC-62ii Here's my current set-up and as you can see, I currently don't run a sub on my system. Klipsch RF-82ii Klipsch RC-62ii Klipsch RB-61ii Denon X3300W (with Audyssey XT32)
  4. Hello, I've had an SW-12 since 1993/1994. It had been working very well until about two weeks ago. About two weeks ago, it started making two kinds of noises after it gets warmed up for a while, like 6 - 35 minutes. One kind of noise is static-like and the other kind is what I'd call crackling kind (could be the sound of clipping). These noises come on whether any source is connected or not. Until these noises come up, the subwoofer appears to work as good as before. Once these noises start, none of the controls (LEVEL, PHASE, and LOW PASS) has any aural effects on the noises as far as I can tell. I've plugged the power cord of the unit to many different wall outlets in my 2-story house and also with or without my computers, cable modem, router, etc. ON, and the problem shows up anywhere. So, I'm leaning towards ruling out things like ground loop or interference from Wii-fi, etc. as the cause of the problem. Even after the noises show up, the source material keeps getting reproduced as usual. I suspect the problem has something to do with overheating of the amplifier because they don't show up immediately after I turn the unit on. Also, I found one area of the top plate of the plastic cover that covers the amplifier has a sign of getting soft before, but I have no idea when it happened. I have connected the speaker leads inside to a regular speaker and the noises came on, so I'm ruling out the problem lies with the subwoofer's speaker unit. I have cleaned the pots for the controls fairly well, too, so they're probably not causing this problem either. I'm now concentrating on the amplifier. As a starter, I downloaded a service manual of SW-12 and SW-15. It's here: http://www.audiolabga.com/pdf/SW12-15 I.pdf Pages 15-17 are the schematic of SW-12. The top portion of Page 16 (Sheet 2 of the schematic) is the part I'm concentrating on [labeled DRIVER CKT filter driver bd.] now because the location of the cluster of 4 transistors (Q7, 8, 9, and 10) coincides with the previously softened area on the amplifier's plastic cover and also the area on the circuit board these four transistors lie on is not burned badly but dark brown. (Each of these transistors has its own little heatsink, so they are probably known to get hot, but maybe with my unit, they may be getting too hot to affect the performance of other components in the amplifier.) Now, I'm completely clueless when it comes to electronics. I'm hoping that someone here can help me with questions I have about the schematic and electronics in general. Tonight, I removed the amplifier and measured about a dozen resistors' values with the unit turned off without any source signal being fed to the amplifer. Since my multimeter can't test capacitors, I'm not going to mess with capacitors now. Obviously, I don't want to remove any components from the circuit board to take their measurements if I can avoid. As far as I could tell, there were no apparently damaged components or suspicious solder joints. Four resistors caught my attention, though: One is R45 1M. It's first resistor on the DRIVER CKT (on the left on the schematic). When I take a reading, the value is only about 109K. Here is my first set of questions: 1. Do I need to remove at least one end of R45 to get an accurate reading? 2. If it's faulty and I install a good one, would it make any noticeable difference in the circuit? Two other resistors which give different values than the specs' are R74 and R73. Their values should be 2.7K ohms according to the schematic and the parts list in the service manual. My meter reads about 1.42K ohms. Here's my second set of questions: 3. Do I need to remove at least one end of R74 and R73 to get their accurate readings? 4. If they're faulty and I install good ones, would they make any noticeable difference in the circuit? And here's my final question for tonight: 5. If you were tackling this problem, where would you start? Thank you in advance for reading this post and possibly offer some answers/advice/suggestions. Happy Listening! ------------------------------------------------------------- Additional comment: The main heatsink on the back of the amplifier never gets hot. It remain just mildly warm. On the other hand, the small heatsinks on the four transistors on DRIVER CKT get too hot to touch.
  5. I bought this Klipsch subwoofer (KSW-10) new around 1998. It's worked great for 19 years until last month. When I start watching TV or a DVD, I will usually (but not always) hear one or two loud "booms" in succession. It's not a part of the soundtrack. This happens about five minutes into the program but only if the sub hasn't been used that day. I'm getting settled into a show and out of nowhere it sounds like a heavy book hitting the floor from a top shelf. This never happened until recently and I made no changes to settings or setup. No sudden weather changes either. The sub still works, and I haven't heard it happen with music (even with a pipe organ CD.) I did try to turn down the level from '11' (yes, it really does go to 11) to '6'. It still happens and now more frequently. I searched Google, the FAQs and other forum posts and haven't turned up any answers. Has anyone run into this problem before? Thanks
  6. jalapeno

    RP-150M tweeter hiss?

    I'm using these speakers on my desk with SMSL A2 amp. I'm getting a hiss out of the tweeters that is a bit too loud for my taste, because it gets annoying during quiet night time. It does not get louder when I turn up the volume, it remains a steady low volume hiss that becomes unnoticeable when I increase music volume.The hiss is there when nothing is playing and when anything is playing. It's also there even when I disconnected any input signal. As soon as I turn on the amp, the hiss starts. I've got conflicting advice about what could be causing this, so I decided to come here. Some said these speakers are very sensitive and make the amp's noise floor more noticeable, others said the amp is defective. I'm using 14 gauge oxygen free copper wire with banana plugs. Anybody else getting hiss? What could be causing it?
  7. I posted this in a different thread. After doing a search of the forum, I yielded no topic labeled "grounding", so I thought I would start one. If you understand this topic or would like to understand this topic, or like me have consulted people who should understand this topic, chime away. On the chance that hum is a symptom, perhaps the problem is not properly managing grounding and shielding on the home, stereo room and system in the first place. These are my thoughts on the subject based on my reading, consulting from people who know what they are doing and realized experience. I am neither an Electrician, EE nor Attorney, consult all three before frying yourself if you are in doubt. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx There is a long thread on a sub with a hum problem on the thread listed, which has a lots and lots and lots of posts on whether or not you can or can not get fried by 110VAC. This is the link. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/154152-cheap-fix-on-ground-loop/ xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Copy A few thoughts: A lot of the gear that we use is high current, and it can hurt or kill depending on the person and the circumstance. If gear arrives with a 3 prong plug, use it. A lot of Vintage gear does not have a third prong, it floats (hope I am using the term correctly) Electricity wants to go to ground via the path of least resistance, which could be through (you or) another piece of gear if not wired properly. Many homes the breaker box is wired (grounded) to a water pipe in the basement. When I added 2 roof antennas, I followed the methodology of a commercial radio mast from a white paper after reviewing it with an (EE, EE, 30 year tech and lots of guys in the FM section of AK and an) electrician, by some freak occurrence it was the one who wired my house 25 years earlier. Both antennas tied together, then down 2 sides of the house to grounding rods, an additional 8 ft rod was driven into the ground next to the meter box. All three rods were tied together in a ring. Since my house has an aluminum skin, it too was on the same ground. All of my gear including the sub are on the same 15A breaker, all of the gear is plugged into good quality power distribution units that provide RF filtering, high and low voltage protection. By plugging them all into the same distribution, they are all tied to the same ground the shortest path to earth. All power cables must not be touching speaker or RCA cables etc as it could induce a signal under the right conditions. Sometimes, it's worth the $200 to get an electrician in to verify the house wiring and the box and isolate a 15 amp circuit for the stereo gear. A trip to the Emergency Room $500.........a trip to the Morgue priceless..... Better wall sockets than the crap the builders install are a few dollars each, if you are not sure read the directions and watch a few youtube videos and methodically replace every cheapo in the house, same goes for light switches. If you have a friend who knows what they are doing get them to help you do some until you are comfortable then buy them lunch somewhere. On the RCA and other cables, shielded cables are dirt cheap, there is no excuse for not using them. PCs can be very noisy, so if they are a problem connect to them via toslink aka optical isolation. Things like lamps and the CFL bulbs can cause buzz and emit RF. Spend the $60 for an RF and EMI meter and go around the house measuring everything in every mode, if cordless phones and cell phones don't give us brain tumors ........they should judging by their energy plumes. Note: The electrician I mentioned earlier who had retired and was working at Home Depot, I purchased 4 whole house surge protectors from him that day for my home and buildings, kept asking about the grounding I installed. I started to think I was missing a cue and had made a mistake, so I asked him straight up why we were going over it again. Answer: This weekend I am going to upgrade the grounding on my home, and my brothers home and add roof antennas (and whole house surge devices). On his brother's house he was also going to ground the metal roof to the grounding rods (new install) on both sides of the house. I have zero grounding issues (knock on wood) and my daughter asked me what I had done to the TV the day after we completed the grounding. I asked her why, "sharper picture, better colors, everything looks better". Verify the house wire, tie the house to earth at multiple points, tie all earth grounds together via a ring, replace all the cheapo sockets and switches, plug all of the gear into the same power distribution box APC, Monster etc........ just get a good one, and use a dedicated 15Amp outlet if possible. Upgrade the box with a whole house surge protector, $50 plus labor. It may save your Air Conditioner, furnace motor and all major appliances some day. The builders are too cheap to put them in unless forced to by code, even on million dollar new build houses.
  8. so came across this. A 60hz harmonic line filter. what does it do? filters ac ? how? only allows 60hz to pass thru the filter. basically a giant low frequency sub sub woofer filter in design. does it work? seems to. trannies don't buzz anymore and motorized devices don't squeal at high rpms , so yes it works. this one is a 14 amp times 3 440V capable one...it can do three phase. but easy to adapt to single phase 120 or two 120 phases off of 220/240. main thing to remember is to wire as a sub panel....you will need to add a ground bar and a floating neutral bar. and put it in a box so your cat doesn't get electrocuted. duh...welcome to the new forum...pic wont up load..