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Found 4 results

  1. Hello everyone, I am new to the forum but not unfamiliar with Klipsch. A good friend of mine has 2 pair Heresy’s, 2 pair Cornwall’s and a pair of Khorn’s. I have replaced crossover caps in all of them and the original diaphragm’s in one with Ti. After looking at a number of small speakers to replace a pair of tweaked NHT Super Zero’s I finally picked up a pair of RP-160M’s. I used to build speakers when I was younger, everything from cabinets to crossovers. My brother and I would use our front yard as our anechoic chamber laying the speaker down on the grass facing up into the atmosphere to do near field measurements for mechanical phase correction etc. I knew looking at the horn design in the RP series it had potential, compacted rubber coating on the Tractix horn to eliminate resonance? Who does this? Only Klipsch. The 6.5" Spun Copper Cerametallic woofer is nice and tight as well, very rigid and light weight. Klipsch did an amazing job with these drivers. They have serious potential! After listening for a few days I thought they should have had a little more clarity in the high frequency and upper midrange so I pulled the crossovers and sure enough to hit the targeted price range Kilpsch used a relatively inexpensive poly cap in the tweeter, a sandcast resistor and an electrolytic cap in the woofer circuit. These had to go. I ordered a pair of Jantzen Cross Caps to replace the Klipsch 3.9uF ones and put a couple of ceramic disks that I had lying around across the 43uF electrolytic, stage 1 complete. Now the horn is coming alive! This made an improvement in the high frequency clarity that let me know I was right about these drivers and moving in the right direction. Next step was to replace the 43uF electrolytic with Jantzen Cross Caps, the 9ohm sandcast resistor with a Mills type and add some 0.1uF Audyn True Copper bypass caps. But that required rebuilding the crossover boards, 43uF of poly cap is too big for the pcb behind the binding posts. I purchased a 3.5" wide x .25” thick Poplar board from the local hardware store and rebuilt the simple crossover. I used Velcro to attach it to the bottom of the speaker housing. Due to the size of these speakers the crossovers needed to be very compact and as it turned out the positive spade terminal on the inside of the binding post had to be rotated 180 degrees so it didn’t touch the crossover. I arranged the crossover so the upper binding posts go to the tweeter and the lower to the woofer circuit. I added a little constrained layer dampening (peel and stick type) to the Tractrix port for good measure as well, it is plastic and it dose ring a bit when you tap on it. You think they imaged before? Holy crap, the clarity will blow you away! It turns out I was correct in my assessment of these drivers. This horn is the finest Klipsch has ever designed, the culmination of years of thought and research and probably reading these forums to find out what all of you have been doing to their speakers. The balance, linearity and amazing clarity from the Ti diaphragm and the Cerametallic woofer are astounding. Every bristle of the brush on a snare drum is individually defined. Voices have an airiness to them and each instrument is individually discernable. For this price these are unbeatable. By the way I stole them for $299.99 and free shipping from ebay, brand new in the original boxes! I probably spent $150.00 or so on the crossovers alone bringing the total around $450.00. A great deal on speakers with such potential.
  2. I live in Brazil, at the end of the year I'm going to Florida, and I'm intending to buy a set of 2.0 speakers. Firstly i thought about the sixes(499$), but after a few negative reviews complaining about boomy bass and requiring a really good placement (and in my room i don't have plenty space for putting them on their best position possible) I decided to look after a few others, I found the RP-160M (399$), would match with the Yamaha A-S301BL(349$), and after a few more research I found the towers RP-260F that in my country I can buy for around 800$ converted, completing 1150$, I don't work yet, so this is really a lot of money for me. Any suggestions? Should I buy the sixes? Is there a difference between the towers and the 160s that worth that difference? I do not have plans to add a sub, since my mainly objective with this set is music and games, some movies eventually. And as I said, i have a small room and live in a apartment with my parents, so I couldn't turn it up all the way.
  3. New home, new 5.1 (or 5.2) HT opportunity. Issue is that new L/C/R speakers must go into a built-in bookshelf surrounding TV. Speakers can be placed about 7 ft apart and at ear level but will be on a 12" deep shelf and surrounded by a cell with side walls and a top (some flexibility in cell size but not depth). Listening area is 15x15x10 and open to a larger space. Surround speakers will be in-ceiling. 80% HT, 20% soft rock music. Dialogue clarity is very important but loudness is not. Prefer to keep Yamaha Aventage 660 avr (80wpc). For this application, am I better off using the RB81's with the front ports or the RP160's ? Other tips ?
  4. Bookshelf Speakers as Surround speaker. I am planning to setup Klipsch 5.1 (Reference Premiere 260 set) , i have one doubt. RP250S VS RP160M as a Surround Speaker Can i use Bookshelf Speaker RP160M as a surround? I listen to music(via Youtube or Radio) and movies (via Netflix). My couch is next to the wall, and most probably i will Wall mount the surround speaker. I have attached my room dimension. I already have a pair of RP260F as Front stereo speakers. i have to decide between Bookshelf RP160M VS RP250S (Surround Speaker) , which one would be better , shall i choose dedicated Surround Speaker over Bookshelf or vice versa? Thanks in advance
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