The Dude Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 Has any one ever assembled a pair of these with these directions. i have a set of plans that someone around has altered with an sb part to trims what looks to be the top of part A, i dont know what the specs are for this pieces or exactly were it mounts. also parts d and f gives the dimensions and that it is made up of pine but are they talking about stock pine or made up of two pices of the materials you are using. could use some help or advice on this. thanks nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spamhead Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 I am not familiar with the speakerlab plans but you can to www.volvotreter.de/khorn.htm and see the pics of khorn assembly. I've seen a couple of bass cabs built using these drawings available here and they turned out nice, hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 I have some Speakerlab plans, from 1989. (they still sell the plans, btw. at least they were selling them a couple of years ago, although not listed on the website). I can't follow what part you are talking about. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesboy Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 Clearify what you mean by an sb part. Part A is the front panel of the bass bin. It's top edge will not need to be trimed as it is covered by the bottom piece of the top horn enclosure which laps over the front panel. Parts D and F can be made from a single piece of solid wood (doesn't have to be pine) or two or more pieces of wood glued up and then cut to size. If you have any more questions fire away as I have built several of these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 does d and f have to be solid or can it be two strips of 3/4" but just the right width glued together to make a triangle. one of the cad drawings i have shows it as two piece glued up to make a hollow triangle. thanks for your help. nick ' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 Are your identifications the same as these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 I make a pair of SK's using the plans. But I altered things so that I could use 3/4 inch ply. A big pain in the neck and probably un-necessary. I believe I understand the issue (regardless of my use of 3/4 overall instead of 1/2 inch). The parts D and F are listed as being made from relatively thick pieces of solid wood. It can be difficult to find a piece of wood that thick and difficult to cut to size with a saw used at home. My thought was that these pieces should be even larger. That is to say the triangles we see in cross section should be 3 inches tall to match the height of the ducts which they are mated to. I ripped long sections of ply with 45 degree angles which were 1.414 x 3 inches wide. Then I used those to make the pieces. This resulted in a hollow area behind the structures. But I glued and sealed. In my view you can glue up sections or do whatever you need as long as you are approximating the structure, overall. There is no magic to one or the other block of wood. Wm McD I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nat Denkin Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 The 1978 Speakerlab K plans describe parts "D" and "F" as made of "clear fir or pine." "D" has a 4 3/4 base of the triangle and a 2 3/8 height. I built a pair of the Speakerlab K's in the early 80's and last year updated them with new woofers (the ones with the heavy cast frame) from Bob Crites. I did not include the damping material that Speakerlab recommended when you used their woofer. I also use the Atlas Sound PD-5VH Midrange Horn Driver with Al Klappenberger's Trachorn 400 and built his universal crossover network. A Beyma CP25 provides the high end. I would be concerned about changing the dimensions of "D" because if you don't like the result, it is very hard to replace (especially if you use glue and nails). The resulting system has great sound and I like it the way it is. On the other hand, with a DIY project you are free to experiment. nat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 25, 2009 Author Share Posted January 25, 2009 you guys are great help. for the recorded i never planed to put crap in the speakers for component wise. also the plans i have, have already been altered for 3/4" parts. so i am in luck there. I do relize that for the money i could almost buy a pair off line but i still have to consider cost of travel or shipping but atleast its the real deal. but then i would also have to recondition them seems that anything online that cheap is do to horrible cosmetic reasons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted January 25, 2009 Author Share Posted January 25, 2009 yes Bruce those are the same. nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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