skaelin Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 Just bought a pair of original Heresies. They came with the chip but the previous owner saved the chip. I just wanted to get some advice on how to best reapply the piece of veneer. I tried laying the piece on the chipped portion but it is not a perfect fit. Should I clean out all the old glue and small wood slivers that are still attached to the plywood substrate? Which glue? See pics below. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 I've had a problem, somewhat similar. It arose in applying veneer. My solution was to use super glue. It is possible to hold the broken piece in position with sewing pins, not piercing the piece, just holding it in place. Maybe you can turn the speaker on its back and let gravity help. The reasoning on the use of superglue is that it dries to clear surface, if somewhat glossy. But you can buff that out. I would remove any shreds which interfer with a good physical match. Incidently, superglue can be disolved with acetone. Classic nail polish remover. A girl friend might be of help in this process because artificial nails are applied using superglue, and removed with acetone. So maybe the GF has more experience than us guys. Wm McD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 PS on holding it in place during drying. I'm not sure what superglue does not stick to. Maybe not the bottle and cap in which it is held. Saran wrap? Wm McD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 Warning, it sticks to fingers pretty good!!!!! [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZAKO Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 CONTACT CEMENT,, for veneer,, Apply to cabinet area and apply to veneer strip,, wait ten min. then bond together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossman Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 I would go with contact cement as well. No clamping/holding necessary. Holds forever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skaelin Posted February 8, 2009 Author Share Posted February 8, 2009 OK, glued it with contract cement. I glued it up about half an hour ago. I just wanted to thank all you guys! What a great forum this is. How long should I wait to putty up the very small cracks? They are hard to see in pic below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 crayola Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 I agree with Colter. Putty would actually be more difficult and probably more noticeable. There is a product from the old days called Tibetan wood sticks. It is very similar to Colter's suggestion of a crayola. Only it is fancier and more expensive. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbon summit Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 How would you guys recommend dealing with a chip like that when you don't have the piece to glue in? Is there some sort of putty or something short of re-veneering the speaker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill H. Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Myself, I think that is a Beautiful repair...........leave well enough alone.............maybe Crayola as Michael sugguested. But to me it is Finished ! Congrats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skaelin Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 Myself, I think that is a Beautiful repair...........leave well enough alone.............maybe Crayola as Michael sugguested. But to me it is Finished ! Congrats. Here's a link to some pics of the chip repair and refinish job I did last night: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/115410/1163435.aspx#1163435 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 How would you guys recommend dealing with a chip like that when you don't have the piece to glue in? Is there some sort of putty or something short of re-veneering the speaker? Good question, and I have a solution! I had this problem with a Cornwall about 5 years back. I've had to do this sort of thing with high-end pre-finished cabinets, too. What I did with the Cornwall is, I "harvested" a bit of veneer from the inside of the riser (could also be obtained from any inconspicuous place, like the bottom, or the inside of the speaker). Cut a section (peel or slice it to the thickness of veneer) larger than the place needing repair. Trim ragged edges away from the repair site (I'd make it a rectangle), and cut the "new" veneer to fit. Use the glue of your choice (I use carpenters glue...I'm a carpenter!), "clamping" it with blue tape stretched taut. If need be, you can also clamp over the blue tape with a bar clamp or such. How you take it from here (sanding, etc.) depends on the finish on the speakers. Oil or lacquer can be touched up pretty easily. BTW, this technique is generally called a Dutchman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 What fini said [Y] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Something like this set would be useful for small repairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacksonbart Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Will that work for a chipped tooth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Will that work for a chipped tooth? That depends, is the tooth laquered or oil-finished? What about your rear molars, the ones in the inconspicuous location...are they a good color match?? Just kidding, but this part is serious...go to Home Depot or Lowes...look for minwax putty crayon in whatever veneer /stain that is, walnut? Use that to fill in the gaps of the re-veneer job. Actually it is pretty easy to just remove the old facing and install new veneer tape,which is not THAT expensive. It just irons on. A good solution for oiled finish repairs. Back at the factory in the old days we re-attached chips using a tube of all-purpose adhesive, which was basically identical to plastic model glue...same brain-enhancing fumes and everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Back at the factory in the old days we re-attached chips using a tube of all-purpose adhesive, which was basically identical to plastic model glue...same brain-enhancing fumes and everything. Hey, when I visited the plant in '05 and '06, I was stunned how smelly (fumes, y'know) the paint shop was. And that was from across the room from the hoods. No one wore a mask in there, either! Andy, do you have a good technique for matching the new veneer tape to the old, oxidized original? Especially with walnut, a strip of new veneer really stands out (much cooler-toned). And don't tell me you just get out the crayola set...[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 Fini: when I redo a pair of H's, etc, and the owner wants that "vintage" look, I've found that either Minwax's "golden oak", or "gunstock", or in some combination of the two can produce the reddish hue common to 70's era walnut. Also their "special walnut" is handy especially for speakers that were not exposed to much sunlight over the years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bliss53 Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 I have used minwax sticks, crayons and colored markers for furniture. I end up going back to my dads trick-shoe polish. Start light and go darker. You can usually buff it out to the level that looks good. You can even buff it almost off and start again if you over buff. I use kiwi polish in assorted colors applied with a q-tip and buffed with a soft cloth. The goal is to get rid of the color differences that catch the light. Add a couple of coats of butchers paste wax on the enire surface after the polish has dried and you are done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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