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MCM1900 Rebuild


colterphoto1

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The metal hatch covers were peeling and rusted so here's the cleanup procedure for them.

Remove all screws and insert in foam block for painting later.

Using very stiff wire brush on drill, brush in four directions to get all flaking paint and rust off. This is from 8 doors, takes a while

Using pad sander and 80 grit paper, feather off edges of remaining paint.

Wipe clean.

I used Rustoleum textured paint to help disguise any roughness on the surface plus I figured it would look closer to the Black Glass surface than an standard paint. I shot them with two coats each in opposite directions.

There weren't enough screws so off the the hardware store. #8 x 1/2 pan head. Bought a box of 100 as I needed probably 25. Rubbed the head of each on a piece of 120 sandpaper to rough it up for paint and stuck them in foam block also. Shot with two coats.

Scrape off all old weatherstrip residue from hatch and cabinet openings. I use a flexible 1" putty knife that I keep sharp by rubbing on a piece of sandpaper to strip this weatherstrip away.

Install new weatherstrip. It took nearly an entire roll from Parts Express to do all eight doors.

Reinstall, we're almost there.

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Time for a quick break- here's the Official Road Food of Klipsch Roadies!

My little brother has a theory that if you eat enough junk food, you get a stomach ache and therefore cannot fall asleep at the wheel. But then he's a Colter so we'd expect that kind of convoluted thinking from him, wouldn't we?

This particular snack was for the trip from Tampa to Sarasota with rental truck.

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These work with passive networks and sound awesome, but you've got to build a big wire harness to get everything plugged in. I made two of these, one with red, one with black dualie bananas. 13 ga where it's going to woofie, 16 ga otherwise. They may be PA speakers but short lengths of smaller gauge wire are not harmful to signal flow. I run 13 from the amps to the stacks- it's about 20-30 feet distance.

I put a little colored heat shrink tubing on each end and follow the standard Klipsch color code for drivers which is Red woofies, Green Mids, Yellow Tweetie birds. Keeps things straight in my simple brain.

Roger had a good idea the other day and that would be to put a piece of colored tape at the crossover and speaker cabinet end so no one even has to read the cabinet model to get it right, just match the colors. That's taking it to the nth degree but I like it.

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For comparison here's some horns. MCM horns make the LSI top look like Playschool!

Note that this photo is of the top horns in the system that was sold, there are not side access hatchways as pictured earlier. This set was painted pebble black with the aluminum trim, the middle of the three coverings (painted with no trim was also available).

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LSI is the one that does not belong to the MCM stack. I wanted to show the difference in size between the LaScala split top section (LSI) and the big horns as used in the MCM system.

MTTM super tweeters

MSM horn HF

MSSM mid bass horn

then you'd have the MWM or MWM-S underneath for LF

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Is anyone getting anything from this?

Any questions?

M

I should have bopped you on the head when you were not looking, loaded them back up and taken them to Area-51 and when you woke up, claimed that you were jumped by aliens.... Hah!!! Hah!!!! [;)]

But then again.... SWMBO would have come apart at the seams..... Oh well!!!

What a work out!!! Total sweat box operation to get them loaded on the pallets, etc. But what a deal you got on them!!!

[Y][Y][Y]

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Yeah, I don't want to hear anyone belly ache about moving Klipsch speakers after what we went through that day. TWO TONS in 30 minutes- whew!

I guess I did ok. There's 4 new woofers, 4 K55 diaphragms, 10 piezos, and a K41 recone in there right now. That's some buckies.

But they're not for sale.

M

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