Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 19 The epoxy resin corner and edge material has dried to it's granite like state. Now it's just a matter of blending it into the horizontal/ vertical surfaces. The material dries fairly clear so you can see the formica underneath In the case of these CW's, unless the formica was damaged, lifting, etc., I left it on as the substrate" for the veneer. There are several advantages to that. First, the stuff is like a rock; second it is otherwise "flat" and provides a very good layer on which to lay the new veneer; third.... it would take forever to get off.... and once the new veneer is applied, you will never see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 20 Ugly..... but sanded and ready for veneer and motor board paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 21 Several of the internal staples on the batting material were missing, and in one case, a whole piece of the batting was missing, so fixed that, made sure the paper strings were attached, etc. The batting is a "kraft paper" packing product, and is available in bulk from uline.com. It's pricey, but it's the same material used by the factory when they made the CW's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 22 I wanted to have a better method of attaching speaker wire, so I opted for "terminal cups". The original backs required the cup holes be cut. The holes were made with a 4" hole cutter and then I use the router to cut the recess in which the cup will be fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 23 If you use cups..... make sure that you measure where they are supposed to go. You have to clear any braces, and make sure that you are centered, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 24 The cups I use are from Parts Express and they have a fuse holder. Nice. Not expensive at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 25 The backs will now be sanded and prepped for the lacquer paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 26 Now for the crossovers. They are the original B's and I ordered a set of caps from Bob Crites. I will use the Weller soldering station that Bob recommended. The "heat" position I use is #4. I've tried it with #3, but #4 works better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 27 Not being the brightest candle in the chandelier.... I always mark the wires I am going to cut with a piece of blue painters tape. Then cut the wires leading to the old Aerovox cans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 28 Remove the cans and make sure the wires are ready for stripping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 29 Layout the caps and the cap wire sleeving Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 30 Strip the wires, making sure hat I don't "strip" too much. I also put the heat shrink tubing over the wires. The tubing is some old military grade tubing and is much higher quality than some of the stuff being sold today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 31 Install the caps in the same positions as the old ones (by cap value), and secure them with a dab of contact cement and then with a wire tie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 32 The cap wires are folded over a loop on the main wires, and then soldered together. I carefully do that part making sure that the only solder is what "flows" into the wire and that's it. Then heat the shrink wrap and straighten out the wires. It's ugly, but I also took this picture for another project I'm working on that shows inductor and autoformer part numbers and cap values for Heritage crossovers. I could make very nice crossover boards, etc.... but that's another project.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 33 Now for the grills..... For a detailed photo essay on how to do grills, see: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/110684.aspx. Short version. I use a frame specifically made for Cornwall grills. I take the cloth and align it in the frame along seam edges and lay the cloth in the clamps over the correct Cornwall grill template (underneath). The frame (and the cloth) is then evenly stretched by using wedges at all four corners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 34 The "grill blank" is then coated with a spray on adhesive (3M type 77) and carefully aligned with one seam edge. Then lowered down and rolled to make sure the adhesive sticks properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 35 Once the adhesive sets, I then apply contact cement to the grill blank edges and fold the cloth over. The cloth is "squeezed" tight against the contact cement using either the roller or with a piece of 2x4 and a hammer.... Works for me.... Then the velcro is applied, both pieces... The piece that will "stick" to the motorboard still has it's backing tape and will not be removed until I'm ready to install them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 36 Inspection and remove any dust, etc. and they are ready to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 37 Meanwhile.... back at the ranch, I've cut my veneer panels and have laid them out to "flatten" until I'm ready to apply glue to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 38 When I apply the glue to the veneer panels, I make a tape "frame" to lay each piece on; I then apply the glue and remove it to set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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