No Disc Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 What the best way to get inside the unit? Remove the back? Take of each horn/woofer individually? I want to caulk the horns and woofer cage. I did this on my Cornwalls,, but that back just screws off. Anyone doing crossovers for this unit. I got Deans wonder crossover for my Cornwalls and loved the change. Advise sought. Thanks Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverSport Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 No disc...were your Cornwall horns metal...that is usually the reason people caulk them...your Chorus II horns are plastic and don't ring and would not benefit from any caulking...the woofer cage may be metal...best way into the II is through therear passive radiator...if it were me I would update the crossovers if you feel the need to tweak...since you have experience with DeanG's crossovers, you may want to start there...if not...member popbumper or Bob Crites...you may also want to add the titanium tweeter diaphragm to those tweeters...made a difference in several Klipsch speakers of mine and they were available from Bob and Michael Crites...perhaps from Klipsch too...a warning that some found them bright...I did not and I changed two pair of Quartets (smaller but same Family as the Chorus II) and KG 5.5s... Good Luck, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerohm Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 Remove magnetic grill ... lie the speaker face down on the floor ... unscrew the rear passive drone. There is a gasket that 'might' stick but rocking the speaker gently should allow you to pop the drone out. Get a flashlight and you are in business. have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 If you're going to caulk the horns and the woofer basket, then you'll need to pull each driver out individually. There are quick-connects on the wires so they are easy to remove. Just make sure you mark the polarity. For what it's worth, I think there are other mods one could do to the Chorus II that would yield more bang for the buck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerohm Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 STILL Way easier to START with the drone removed.... believe me I am willing to bet that when they were manufactured, the installation of the drone was the final step of assembly. It is just not worth the risk working on them without access to the rear . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 You can't reach up to the horns from the PR opening and be able to caulk them...am I missing something? Just remove the screws on each horn, leaving the bottom for last that way gravity naturally holds it in. When you unscrew the last one, just rest the base of your hand against the horn so that the lip on the cabinet holds it in place. When the screw is out, place your hand inside the horn and catch the top when you let go: the bottom will naturally swing out from the weight of the driver. When you go to pull it out you'll notice two round cutouts inside the rectangle cutout for the horn - this provides clearance for the driver attached to the end of the horn. There's a trick to rotating the horn so that the driver can get through the opening - so don't try to force it out. I can provide pics of the rework I've been doing on my pair if you like... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Disc Posted March 29, 2009 Author Share Posted March 29, 2009 Can someone enlighten me as the the mods than can be done to the Chorus II? And thanks for the details on opening them up. I got some time next week, so I dig into them then. Thanks again. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverSport Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 No disc...were your Cornwall horns metal...that is usually the reason people caulk them...your Chorus II horns are plastic and don't ring and would not benefit from any caulking...the woofer cage may be metal...best way into the II is through therear passive radiator...if it were me I would update the crossovers if you feel the need to tweak...since you have experience with DeanG's crossovers, you may want to start there...if not...member popbumper or Bob Crites...you may also want to add the titanium tweeter diaphragm to those tweeters...made a difference in several Klipsch speakers of mine and they were available from Bob and Michael Crites...perhaps from Klipsch too...a warning that some found them bright...I did not and I changed two pair of Quartets (smaller but same Family as the Chorus II) and KG 5.5s... Good Luck, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 Does Bob sell a titanium diaphragm for the K79? I might be interested in a pair of those. Based on the measurements of my Chorus II's, the woofer is about 2-3dB down from the squawker/tweeter (depending on your perspective). Back in college I implemented an active xover for them that really made them shine - I've been meaning to do something similar in a passive xover but just haven't had the time. Also, swapping out the electrolytic capacitors for film caps will help clean up some of the grit in the upper mids. I also measured a slight rise in the frequency response around 4kHz, which is also associated with some spikes in the impedance response...which means it will really get accentuated with higher output impedance amplifiers (like many tube amps). Pushing the component values in the passive xover to roll the squawker off a bit early helped tame this peak quite a bit. I found this also helped make the tweeter sound less separated from everything else - I guess more cohesive would be a better word? I wish I still had the measurements, but the laptop I used back then crapped out and I lost all sorts of data. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wuzzzer Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 As far as I know the titanium diaphragms he's selling on eBay will fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikieboyblue Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 I've done the crossover replacement and titanium tweeter diaphragm upgrade all from Bob Crites. Big improvement. When I did the crossover replacement, I also replace all internal wiring with 14 ga. speaker wire and newly soldered connections. No disc...were your Cornwall horns metal...that is usually the reason people caulk them...your Chorus II horns are plastic and don't ring and would not benefit from any caulking...the woofer cage may be metal...best way into the II is through therear passive radiator...if it were me I would update the crossovers if you feel the need to tweak...since you have experience with DeanG's crossovers, you may want to start there...if not...member popbumper or Bob Crites...you may also want to add the titanium tweeter diaphragm to those tweeters...made a difference in several Klipsch speakers of mine and they were available from Bob and Michael Crites...perhaps from Klipsch too...a warning that some found them bright...I did not and I changed two pair of Quartets (smaller but same Family as the Chorus II) and KG 5.5s... Good Luck, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Disc Posted April 4, 2009 Author Share Posted April 4, 2009 Well, what a learning experience I had today. I managed to install Crites Crossovers in my Chorus IIs today. installed the titanium diaphragms in but ran into problems. I managed to destroy one of the titanium diaphragms, and then the two original ones I had pulled out. Just for good measure I pulled my tweeters from my other 2 Chrous Iis and screwed those up also. Three more diaphragms on order. Those suckers are fragile fragile fragile. My confidence is this DIY stuff is shot.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikieboyblue Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 Oh my! What in the world happened?? Connected the tweeter to the wrong terminal? Well, what a learning experience I had today. I managed to install Crites Crossovers in my Chorus IIs today. installed the titanium diaphragms in but ran into problems. I managed to destroy one of the titanium diaphragms, and then the two original ones I had pulled out. Just for good measure I pulled my tweeters from my other 2 Chrous Iis and screwed those up also. Three more diaphragms on order. Those suckers are fragile fragile fragile. My confidence is this DIY stuff is shot.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Disc Posted April 5, 2009 Author Share Posted April 5, 2009 Installing the diaphragms are relatively easy as long as you know some things before trying to replace the stock ones. Apparently some of the things below are common knowledge because Bob C told me only one other customer managed to do what I did. (mess up several diaphragms. ) Things to know about installing Titanium diaphragms in Klipsch Tweeters. - Diaphragms are very fragile - One must be VERY careful not to twist or bend the terminal flat pins or you could sever the connection to the micro thin wire going to the digraph itself - If the connection from the crossover does not make a good connection and falls off, gently crimp the spade connector, NEVER try to solder - Never attempt to "test" the diaphragm before installing it inside the tweeter, it will ruin it instantly. - There is a very specific method to remove tweeters, not knowing this can cause bent pins or abuse to the contacts of the diaphragms. After much trial and error, I think the best method to remove the Tweeter assembly in the Chorus II is. - Remove the screws holding the tweeter. As you remove the last screw, apply hand pressure so the tweeter does not fall - Gently pull the tweeter out and using fingers or a small plier, pull the connections off the tweeter, do not bend or twist side-to-side. - Rotate the tweeter assembly 180 degrees so that the diaphragm connections are now facing the opposite sides from when you removed the assembly. - Tilt the assembly approximately 45-55 degrees downwards (towards the woofer) - At this specific angle you should be able to remove the tweeter assembly gently without having the diagram connections rub against the tweeter opening. In hindsight, when I realized there were no instructions for installing the diaphragms included from Bob, I should of called him and had him walk me though the process. - No Disc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olorin Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Were the directions at http://www.critesspeakers.com/replacing_the_diaphragm_on_.html not applicable for some reason? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Disc Posted April 6, 2009 Author Share Posted April 6, 2009 That information is good, and I am glad it's there. I actually ordered the crossovers and diaphragms over the phone. Didn't know those instructions were there. The instructions don't tell the user how to remove the tweeters, which it seems in my case was part of the problem. There just seems to be a several ways in which you can screw these diaphragms up. And for a novice like me, It would been appreciated to been given detailed instructions. No worries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyfguard1 Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 I got a set of these today and was ready to treat them like a surgery after reading this. I managed to make a couple of mistake so hopefully I can share some insight on how not to make the same mistakes that I did. When you pull the tweeter horns out after removing the screws, there is a rectangular rubber gasket that hides the circular cutout in the wood. Carefully tilt the horns out, and have a pair of needlenose sitting on top of the speaker to remove the connectors in a side-to-side motion. I marked the magnet on the back for the wire coloring. Getting the old diaphrams out is easy, then when you re-install the new titaniums remember this ... the domes are not just paper-thin, but like an eyeball. There is a white plastic on the diaphrams that I assumed you take off, they have a bit of a sticky substance underneath. When I took the plastic off, I realized that I had dented the dome, and couldn't understand how I did that after being so careful. I had to cup my hand around it and use my central vac to pull it out, but ... so if you're anal enough to replace the tweeter than you know it's been compromised. Being extra careful on the second one, I still managed to put a very small dent in it, but at least I figured out where I screwed up. If you pull the white plastic off, I think you would be better off pulling a corner up and cutting it, and then pulling it away from the dome. It's extremely fragile. I'm going to buy another set, they are very reasonable. But even my tweaked ones sound better in my opinion, even after my Homer Simpson ... Doh! ... moment(s). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikieboyblue Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 What happens if you don't take off the paper? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 Leave the plastic on. Bob Crites 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikieboyblue Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 Leave the plastic on. Bob Crites Yeah, that's what I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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