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Al Klappenberger

Developing a network for the Forte

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Here's the parts list.

Al K.


Parts from Solen of Canada -------------------

Quantity Description Part number
-------- ------------------- -----------
Solid wire 2 1.8 mHy inductor S201.8
inductors: #20 AWG solid wire


#16 Litz wire 2 .20 mHy. inductor L16.20
inductors: 2 .30 L16.30

Fast-Caps: 2 7.5 uFd. PA750
4 2.2 PA220
2 33 PA3300

Bennic: 2 39 uFd. PEMT160J396
Polyester

Non-polar: 2 22 uFd. B05A100K226
Electrolytic

Resistors 2 5.6 Ohms 10W Resistor WWSQP10J5R6
Cement 2 9.1 WWSQP10J9R1
Wirewound: 2 18 WWSQP10J18R
2 39 WWSQP10J39R

Parts from Madisond: ------------------------

2 2.0 MhY "Sledgehammer" inductor

Parts from Mouser.com -----------------------

24 Series 78000 538-38002-0257
Solder bottom terminal .438

Misc parts: ----------------------------

14 cable ties
2 5/8 inch thick particle boards, 9 X 7 Inch
2 Autotransformer -
old one from original network or
Universal Transformer 3619

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I don't think there will be room to mount this network near the input connections. It's too big! I need to pull out the passive radiator and actually sit the network inside in different places before I decide where to put it. Right now I'm thinking it will need to go on the side someplace. I would rather put it where you did but I doubt I can.

Al K.

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The installation was not easy at all. It was necessary to connect the wires before screwing the network to the inside. By laying the speaker on it side the network could be laid on the floor just below the passive radiator hole while the connections were made.

post-2934-13819476002088_thumb.jpg

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Could you split the crossover in two and do like the crossover in the pics?

One for the woofer and one for midrange/tweeter?

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Xman, Thanks for posting the pics for me.

By dividing my x-over into 2 sections made it possible for me to mount my x-overs on the sides of the original x-over. I also have the early version of the Forte which used a smaller round cup instead of the rectangular x-over.

Al, I replaced my internal wiring which I made longer so that I could make the connections outside the speaker through the passive radiator hole which made the wiring easier.

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I have a pair of Fortes and later this year may replace the crossovers so this thread is interesting.

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xman,

The network could be divided in half but I don't see how you could install it easily. I found that the netwrok as-is would sit on the partition at the bottom but I would not have been able to get the a screwdriver in there to screw it down! Mounting two boards against the back would seem to be even worse. I was using a bottery power screwdriver which is rather large. Using a small standard screwdriver would have been difficult too.

Al K.

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It might be a little bit of work but the way you did it is the best way.

Nice work Al.

The FR looks real good to me. How was the speaker positioned when you took the measurement? The Forte needs some boundary reinforcement to bring the bass up to where it's supposed to be.

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Dean,

I exchanged a few emails with Bob Crites. He suggests mounting the network on the partition after removing the foam pad using Velcro. You could stick the foam pad right over the network when you are done. The network WILL fit in that postion. I tried it but was not able to get a screwdriver in there to mount it. Velcro would sove that problem.

BTW: I forgot to mention that I spaced the bottom of the network board with rug pad "feet" in 4 places and used 4 screws that only go into the wood a short way. About 1/2 inch or so. I would really hate to see the point of a wood screw sticking out the sade of the speaker! CRINGE!

Al K.

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Wonderful post, glad Gill and Dean are asking questions in plain English, looking for a class now that will explain what I am reading here

ALK, your networks are way too pretty (and too expensive!) to hide inside; time to make a stock acyclic cover to mount them outside

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Looks great Al,

The velcro seems like a good suggestion and will serve as a buffer instead of the rubber carpet pieces. The industrial type sold at craft stores has great holding power.

I don't know if this would lose any quality of signal to the speakers but would it help installation if you were to put some wire tails off the board for the drivers with male and female sta-con quick connects so that all you would have to do is reach in and join the network wires to the driver wires. Just a thought.

Jack

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Jack,

"male and female sta-con quick connects"

Why did't I think of that! That will solve a couple of problems including the possibility of the wires being to short.

Al K.

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Al, nice job and analysis. Any comments on the sound?

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Mark,

The sound? I don't know! I didn't listen to it before or after then network mod! My opinion about how a speaker sounds carries no more weight than anyone elses. I limit all my public opinions to what the instruments tell me. They have no finantial incentives, no placibo effects and no ears!

Actually, I would like to listen to it just to satisfy my couriosity, but I would need both of them in a full stereo set up. I can't tell squat from listening in mono!

Al K

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Here's a blow-up of the 6000 Hz crossover. In "theory" a 2nd order filter inverts the phase. I did this plot to see that the squawker was phased properly. The black plot is with the squawker connected normally. The green plot is with the squawker inverted. The "theory" does not include propogation time difference between the drivers.Clearly the NON-inverted connection is best.

Al K.

Al,

When you said "The "theory" does not include propogation time difference between the drivers"

Is this true for the stock network as well?

Thanks

SET12

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