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HDMI over longer distances


Coytee

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Just sharing something that I'm currently discovering.

I'm wiring up my basement and might have my TV on one side of room and my DTV receiver on the other side of the room. Don't ask what & why... just realize it's because I'm obeying Her [:|] (not that I really care anyway)

Looking over my wires the other night, I'm thinking I'm done with the in wall stuff other than a seperate round of electricity.

I then stopped cold in my tracks. If HDMI cables are maxed at 25/30 feet and I'm running 50' lengths of other wires (probably need 40 and will cut off the excess) what am I going to do about the distance between my DTV box and big screen?

Turns out, you can run two lengths of Cat 6 and put a converter on each end. This will allow the signal to go from HDMI from the DTV box, convert into something that will carry over the Cat 5/6 wires with a converter on the other end and viola, you have lengthened your HDMI wire!

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042501&p_id=6177&seq=1&format=3#specification

I've just ordered a box of Cat 6 so I can make these runs. I thought this solution was pretty slick and worth sharing. I realize there are probably many others who know about this. I'm usually late to these parties so maybe this will help someone else who doesn't realize they're in a similar situation.

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I went to the Cedia Expo awhile back (before I built my HT) and one seminar we attended was on HDMI. The guy suggested the same thing, that anything close to 30' or more with HDMI simply would not work. I was really hoping he was wrong because I had already purchased everything but had not ran the wires. I'm glad he was wrong.

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Another case of reality colliding with theory, it seems. My long HDMI cables are the 22awg. Not sure if the smaller ones work as well - never tried them.

I think that it's important to remember that custom installers are going to play it very conservative and be very safe in anything they install, because they can't afford call-backs to deal with issues that might arise from working outside the specs. We, who live with this stuff in our homes, may be more receptive to pushing the envelope in the name of convenience or cost savings.

(Coytee - maybe you should put on your dog's spectacles... [:D])

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So at 40' would it be better to get the 22 gauge HDMI cable from monoprice, the BJC Belden Series-1 HDMI cable or the Tartan HDMI cable from Blue Jeans Cable, or would they all work about the same from that distance. I'm think that they would all work, but I want the best chance to get a 1080p signal if possible. Thanks!

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I'm think that they would all work, but I want the best chance to get a 1080p signal if possible. Thanks!

It's either on or off...zero's and one's...either works or it doesn't. My thought is that if a 40' HDMI cable wouldn't work, why would a manufacturer sell it? I don't think you will have a problem with it. I would go with the largest gauge at the most reasonable price. From my experience and research, for the most part, cables are cables and to me, monoprice makes some awesome cables at incredible prices.

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Youthman makes a good point.... they presumably would not be making these if they were having issues with them.

I don't yet know my exact lengh needs since I'll be going across the room, down wall and on the back side of the room (location of electronics with tv on opposite side of room) I don't yet know where my wires will be concentrated.

I'll probably buy a 50' wire knowing that it's too long. I'm also going to bury two runs of Cat 6 wire into the walls so if the 50' line doesn't work, I've got a backup plan already buried inside the drywall. If you have open walls, you might consider something like that cheap insurance OR, perhaps later on, when we need 2 HDMI cords...you'll have a second one already there!

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If I can save the day here maybe???

If it is just the video feed, why not just send it over a DVI cable? Your not going to use your tv speakers anyhow are you? And it is cheaper too!

Those of you with projectors also need to do this.. HDMI interface to DVI and off to your projector. Done Deal!

Just a thought...

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I sure don't know what the best answers are but... it does seem as though this HDMI stuff is still evolving. If someone has a satellite box next to their tv and are using an external 5' HDMI cable then nothing really matters....if technology changes, get a new cable right?

What if however, your viewing area is farther away and you are burying things into your walls where you can't easily upgrade/change your wires later on?

I stumbled onto this site, this morning. http://www.hdmi.org/installers/longcablelengths.aspx (page copied at bottom)

I'm coming to understand that for the criteria we use 'today' cable lenght might not matter. They seem to be adding more & more stuff and I'd wonder if/as they add more features, higher bandwidth, other... if they might perhaps get more stringent on cable length issues? (I don't know). There is a convienent disclaimer below saying "but may not work in every case. It is best to test entire systems before installing" and this is with TODAY's versions... what about future versions as this technology progresses?

Prefacing my comment with 'for those of us who won't have easy access to our HDMI cables', It DOES seem as though you can do the best to future proof yourself if you run some Cat 6 wire through the walls and terminate them with HDMI wall plate adapters. Something like these as posted in the beginning.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042501&p_id=6177&seq=1&format=3#specification

One thing I've read is that HDMI has evolved, going from straight wires to adding a crossed pair to get some kind of signal (noise?) rejection. If I had buried the earlier version in my walls I would not have access to the benefit (real or imagined) of this newer style wire with a twisted pair. By using Cat 6 in my walls, I understand I will probably be able to future proof myself for a long time to come. Cat 6 is cheap too!

So, again, if your HDMI wire is simply laying along the floor or in a dropped ceiling, it might not matter. If you are going to bury it behind drywall I think I'd recommend using Cat6 instead of the HDMI going in the walls, or bury a couple runs next to the HDMI so down the road you will have access to it if you need it. The above cover plates at monoprice use 2 runs of Cat 6 for a single HDMI outlet. I'm going to run four lines of Cat 6 so I'll have some extra lines if I ever need them. (read that to mean, as backups after I drive some nails through them while finishing the room [:P]) If I don't need them they'll be out of sight, out of mind!

Running Long Cable Lengths

Like all HDMI-enabled components, cables must be tested to meet the Compliance Test Standards set by the HDMI Licensing, LLC. Cables must successfully pass a signal of a certain strength (Standard cable must deliver a signal of 17Mhz; High Speed must deliver a signal of 340Mhz) to pass compliance.

The HDMI specification does not dictate cable length requirements. Different cables can successfully send HDMI signals various distances, depending on the quality of the design and construction. As well, HDMI compliance testing assumes “worst case” scenarios – testing with components who have minimally performing HDMI electronics. That is why you may see cables in the market that claim to successfully pass an HDMI signal at very long lengths. This may be true using certain quality CE components on each end, but may not work in every case. It is best to test entire systems before installing.

Active Cables & Boosters

Using active electronics to boost and clean up the signal can effectively double the range of a standard twisted-copper HDMI cable. Cable runs of up to 30 meters are the norm for this type of solution, which may be deployed as either a standalone signal management device, i.e., a repeater or booster box, or incorporated into the manufacture of the cable itself. Boxes are available in many configurations, usually incorporating both booster and equalization functions, and may also serve as repeaters or switchers. Active cables, on the other hand, embed the signal-enhancement electronics in the cable itself, with chips embedded in the connector housings. They are unidirectional, using different modules at the transmit and receive ends of the cable. All the technologies in this category require external power.

Beware products that draw power from the +5V power line. Although these may work in certain applications, different components draw varying amount of power from that line to communicate with each other. A cable that draws power from the HDMI cable may fail when components and the active components in the cable or external booster are all drawing from the same source.

HDMI over Cat 5/6

Runs of up to 50 meters can be achieved by sending the HDMI signal over a run of Cat 5/6 networking cable, using special adapters designed for this purpose. As with the active cable solutions discussed above, they incorporate booster and equalization electronics at each end of the path, and require external power. Because of its tighter manufacturing tolerances, Cat 6 cable is generally preferred over Cat 5 in these applications.

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