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superedge88

What's been keeping me busy for quite a while (project pics)

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It seems that a box that large could easily accept two 18 or 15 inch drivers in a ported configuration.

You took the words point blank of what I was thinking. Impressive construction for sure.

So, with duct work, one could vent a port to each room.:)

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It seems that a box that large could easily accept two 18 or 15 inch drivers in a ported configuration.

You took the words point blank of what I was thinking. Impressive construction for sure.
So, with duct work, one could vent a port to each room.:)

But would end up costing more for the second driver, and a lot more for the amplification to run it. So the project would be MUCH more expensive, when I can do this project, which has tons of head room at a lower cost.

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But would end up costing more for the second driver, and a lot more for the amplification to run it. So the project would be MUCH more expensive, when I can do this project, which has tons of head room at a lower cost.

The Behringer EP-4000 is about the same price as the amp you bought, so that's a wash. How much did it cost you to have the box built, pts and labor?

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The driver cost me $150

The wood adhesive etc cost me about $150

No labor cost.

So the total project cost me about $700 including the amplifier.

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30 x 36 x 24 = 15 cubic feet. I sure hope you can have window rattling output with a box of that size, even with direct radiators you can make an impressive amount of bass.

$ 700 is great, but if you had to pay for the labor and a finish on the cabinet ( even a satin black ) the box would be a lot more expensive. However, you have a piece that you won't be upgrading for a long, long time. [:D]

Are you using anything to compensate for the delay due to the path length inside the sub?

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30 x 36 x 24 = 15 cubic feet. I sure hope you can have window rattling output with a box of that size, even with direct radiators you can make an impressive amount of bass.

$ 700 is great, but if you had to pay for the labor and a finish on the cabinet ( even a satin black ) the box would be a lot more expensive. However, you have a piece that you won't be upgrading for a long, long time. Big Smile

Are you using anything to compensate for the delay due to the path length inside the sub?

It definitely has window rattling, teeth rattling bass.

I just ran Audyssey to take care of delay compensation, worked great no complaints. DIY is nice, I will probably end up spending maybe $100 more making this thing look like a piece of furniture (WAF FACTOR!!!) Gonna make it look like a small hutch with fake doors and a drawer, and plan to put a granite tile top on it.

If I had to pay labor then this would be more expensive, which is why I got the volunteer help from my woodworker buddy Joe. Without him this build simply would not have happened, at least for a long time.

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If I had to pay labor then this would be more expensive, which is why I got the volunteer help from my woodworker buddy Joe. Without him this build simply would not have happened, at least for a long time.

It looks like he did a great job, and you can't argue with the price[Y]

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I don't know how I missed this thread, the holidays I guess.

Nice looking design and very well done !

I am now a fan of horn loaded subs thanks to a couple people here on this forum.

I do have a question, Michael Hurd since you know what sub I built I know this design is different and the driver and cabinet shape is also different from what I built but still being a folded horn is the sound roughly the same. I am not talking about output but the general sound, kind of how most ported subs have a certain sound compared to a sealed.

I asked because there is a different sound from this folded horn sub compared to my last ported sub, I think I like the folded horn sound better.

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I would have to say that a horn subwoofer does have a certain sound associated with it. The diaphragm motion is reduced for the same output... so you reduce the amount of distortion that is present from suspension non-linearities, as well the reduced amount of power going through the coil, you reduce inductance modulation as well as voice coil heating.

Now, I have heard a few different ported subs, but I have to say that a well designed ported sub should sound similar to a good sealed sub, but with a wider bandwidth and lower distortion than a sealed sub. Commercially available products have to fall within what is 'acceptable' in terms of packaging, as well as shipping costs, warehousing etc, so they make trade-offs.

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From what I've listented to I have to agree Michael, the THT sounds a lot like an awesome ported sub, obviously without any port noise. I just gotta make this thing look like a piece of furniture so that it blends into the room, I have to wait till it gets warm outside to paint it and make it look pretty, c'mon spring time weather!!!! [:D]

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I just ordered this project myself and hope it fits the bill.

Good work on the subwoofer.[Y]

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I just ordered this project myself and hope it fits the bill.

Good work on the subwoofer.Yes

Let me know if you have any questions at all, it can seem a little daunting at first, but it gets easier as you go. Good luck on your build!

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Maybe I missed it in the thread, but where did you get your plans? Great project and I'm assuming that you will post pictures of the finish details when you do them.

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I just ordered this project myself and hope it fits the bill.

Good work on the subwoofer.Yes

Plans came in and build is complete, all i can say is WOW this is really clean bass pumping from this unit, detailed articulate bass that matches my LaScalas perfectly and has no problem keeping up even when i really crank up the knob.

The build is complete besides some sanding and paint, i encourage anybody with woodworking skills to dump their current subwoofer and build or find one in the marketplace.

Here is mine.

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My son the helper.

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Nice job on the build, what kind of sub did you have prior?

Klipsch sub 12 but i was shopping around for quite some time to look for a replacement as i found the sub 12 not even close to be able to match my mains.

I could not be happier with the sound though this thing is a moose, i threw my back out last week moving this bahemoth from the garage to the house. [:(]

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Perviously my subwoofer was jammed into the wall with less than 4" between the horn mouth and the wall due to space restrictions but this weekend the Tuba HT was unleashed in the living room loaded into a corner with my LaScala's and my Adcom for power and what a difference it makes, before there was plenty of lows, tight, punchy, clean and airy as usual but WOW loading this properly 18" back and a foot or so off the wall just woke this thing up in terms of SPL, the sound quality remained the same but i did not realise what this design is really capable of.

I gave it my all, the Adcom GFA 5500 was pushing like never before, i gave the LaScala's the power i used to juice up the Chorus II's with and they handled it with open arms, the Tuba HT needed to be dialed down just a bit to keep every dam thing in the house from rattling and the frequency needed to be dialed down just a bit to keep the CD playing steady but it truly was a great night on the couch with friends.

We played a wide variety of rock & roll from old to new and never really was able to push the subwoofer to its limits but everybody got a good taste of what they wanted to hear.

Time to put the gear back in the bedroom before everybody gets back from vacation.

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