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Klipsch crossovers


Bacek

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On 6/25/2019 at 11:46 AM, Bacek said:

Anyone knows what crossovers where used in lascala with k-55-m squaker? AL to al-3  or only some of them?

I have had three with AL crossovers. Don't know if that was the only one used with them though.

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On 05/08/2019 at 19:43, billybob said:

Pensez que certains ici tiennent cet orateur en haute estime. Ce sont vos orateurs à faire avec ce que vous voudriez faire. Si vous avez des questions, commencez un nouveau sujet et nous nous en occuperons ensuite ... ou continuez ici ... Avez-vous une idée de la raison pour laquelle votre woofer 15 pouces a cessé de fonctionner ...? ... de nouveau bienvenue.

Hello ! thank's for your welcome. No, i don't know why my boomer was out of service. Maybe the salesman sold me demonstration models, they worked with a big Mac Intosch amplifier, i think a 2 x 200 watts strong !!! 

And this salesman closed his shop some monthes after i bought my Klipsch. Glups.....

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On 05/08/2019 at 18:39, moray james said:

si vous avez encore le woofer mort, vous n’avez rien à perdre en faisant couler les joints de soudure des lamelles vers la languette terminale. Cela pourrait corriger le problème car des joints froids se produisent. Si cela ne fonctionne toujours pas, vous pouvez soulever le capuchon anti-poussière pour voir si vous pouvez accéder à l'autre extrémité des fils de guirlandes au fil de la bobine mobile et les renvoyer également, puis si cela ne fonctionne toujours pas, il est temps de les recone emploi. Le Kappa était sans aucun doute un bon choix de remplacement. Profitez de vos haut-parleurs.

Thank's !!! i changed every boomer on my Cornwall III and they are ok now..... 

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On 8/5/2019 at 5:51 PM, Vicaire said:

5 years but one of the boomers  "died" in 2018. I don't know why, i never do "special nights" with my hifi.....

For a start I would check if your amp is not "producing" DC offset. With some amount it can heat and then destroy woofer coils. Mid's and tweeters are protected by capacitors. Woofers are not.

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Bonjour :! mon amplificateur est un Pass Labs INT 30, je pense que c'est de bonne qualité. Comment puis-je voir ce courant continu? J'ai un petit voltmètre, dois-je le faire quand la musique joue? Sans musique mais amplificateur "en marche"?  

 

Hi ! testsare done to day, i found 8 millivolts in DC on both sides, not enough to kill a Klipsch woofer. The mystery is still alive ! 

Edited by Vicaire
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Downloaded Xsim and started to play around with the inductor values I didn't have with the earlier schematic I posted.  Screenshot below is what I came up with, and should be fairly close for a 2,200 Hz 2-way crossover.  The RLC filter inductors were based on the assumption of a .7 Q factor.  If that's valid:

  • Low-pass RLC knocks out three decibles centered around 1,850Hz, useful to take out some of the 'beaming' effect of pushing a pair of 8" drivers separated by a 7" high horn up to 2,200Hz.  I have a feeling these speakers would be decent candidates for a 2.5 way treatment, but I'm not gonna be messing with that while The Toddler is in charge around this house.
  • High-pass RLC is centered around 5,050 Hz, likely to tame some effect in the horn/driver combo.
  • Hi-pass has a 1st order slope up to about 11KHz, which seems about right for a C/D conical/tractrix horn.
  • Again, this is my educated guessing at what's actually in there, unless someone comes up with an official schematic, or pulls one apart and measures the values.  Again, I'm on Toddler Time, so...
  • The first low-pass inductor could be larger, on the order of .6mH or so to also roll-down some of the beaming issues in the midrange. It is significantly bigger than any other inductor on the board.
  • Assumed driver efficiencies:
    • Horn: 106dB
    • 8" Woofers:  89dB
    • Figured those values *might* get us into a fairly close ballpark, so don't get all snippy if the output looks weird; this was an ASSUMPTION.  

Yeah, it could all be crap, but I had fun while the kid was napping.  Thanks.

 

P.S.:  I'd really like to multi-amp these with an active crossover and filter setup, but that's just not in the cards for the near future...

CF2 Sim1b.JPG

Edited by DirtyErnie
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 12/08/2019 at 15:14, Bacek said:

Pour commencer, je vérifierais si votre ampli ne "produit" pas d'offset DC. Avec une certaine quantité, il peut chauffer puis détruire les bobines du woofer. Les mid et tweeters sont protégés par des condensateurs. Les woofers ne le sont pas.

Hello !

after tests my amplifier produces 8 mV (millivolts) in D.C, on each side,  i believe it's not enough to kill a woofer ? 

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Could anyone tell me what the RC-3 crossover is doing?

i.e. It has a tweeter and two W outputs. Is it treating them as dual woofers or is it treating one as a midrange?

 

Also, Is the actual crossover in the RP-5 just a two way for the woofer and tweeter with the sub amp handling the lows?  Crossover points?

To answer my own question. YES. See pic.

 

The reason I ask is that I would like to turn my RP-5's into a conventional 3 way without the amps. Looking for a Klipsch 3 way crossover that would be appropriate.

 

Thanks

Crossover-1.jpg

Edited by Elgato
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  • 3 months later...

Good day to all. Please provide me with chematic and values for Klipsch synergy F300 crossover, I could not find anything on this forum. I would like to upgrade crossover parts. In case if someone has crossover upgrade mod, it would be even better. Thank you in advance. 

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So I rebuilt my chorus crossover with crites upgrade nice caps for sure and upgrade but after I was done I was having issues with my mid cutting in and out scatchy sounding after a ton of going thru it found the culprit to be the autotransformer since the crossover is mounted to back I decided to make jumpers and mount to board to make future upgrade or repairs easier drove me nuts for a week bought new diaphragm like a idiot that I don’t need I knew speaker was good when I tested finally after much messing around resoldering all the points on board I found if I wiggles the output of the transformer it would go in and out to confirm I removed from circuit and there you go no cutting out mids a bit louder lol but was definitely the issue so if you have the midrange issue check the auto transformer cheaper fix then diaphragm think because it mounted to back board and kinda have to wiggle out with pressure on the autotransformer think after pulling in and out might damaged windings inside just a theory why I decide to remove from input board and mount then solder jumper to the input board make working on easier and getting it out without having to torque on it to wedge it out searched everywhere when I was having this issue and furthest I got was I sent in to get rebuilt no real answers lol so here were my finding tracking down my issue with my midrange cutting in and out hope it helps someone else out 

1ACDD006-B62A-47DB-8053-31B160BCE379.jpeg

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