CANT Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 2 x 28 ohm/25 watt Parallel 50 uF 250V + 30 uF 250V Parallel 6.0mH DCR < .8 ohm (IC) 6.0mH DCR < .8 ohm (IC) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dkfan9 Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 On 10/1/2016 at 0:18 PM, moray james said: you can search for a very good upgrade thread at AudioKarma dot org on the R28f. http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/klipsch-r28f-hyper-drive-crossover-replacement-project.698764/page-2#post-9510503 The second photo, is that a schematic of the modified crossover? And is that photo available in a higher resolution? I'm not able to read any of the values, at least in my screen. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 16 minutes ago, Dkfan9 said: And is that photo available in a higher resolution? I'm not able to read any of the values, at least in my screen. I can't read it either. What you can do is click on it, then use <Ctrl><+> to make it larger (<Ctrl><-> to make it smaller). It's still fuzzy to my eyes, but your eyes might be better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dkfan9 Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 16 minutes ago, wvu80 said: I can't read it either. What you can do is click on it, then use <Ctrl><+> to make it larger (<Ctrl><-> to make it smaller). It's still fuzzy to my eyes, but your eyes might be better. Yeah, I'm also seeing very fuzzy when zoomed. Glad to know it's not just me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted October 16, 2016 Share Posted October 16, 2016 On 10/5/2016 at 4:44 PM, longdrive03 said: Thanks Moray. That's the one I printed and can't get it big enough and clear enough to read (No I'm not blind!!!)) I am specifically interested in what appears to be a series notch filter on the woofer but would love to have a legible full diagram. Any help appreciated. Thanks. I too was curious about the zobels used in the woofer and mid section of the AB-3 and AK-4. I understand these schematics to be the latest ones which have been released. Probably everyone knows that these are used to rob power from the driver and thus are used to reduce a hump in the frequency response. The ones shown are probably not too notchy (narrow) in view of the resistor (which also prevents the zobel from turning into a dead short to ground). The value of R also affects the center frequency but maybe not too much here. Attached is a printout of my spreadsheet. The numbers look quite reasonable. WMcD AB-3 and AK-4 Zobel Freqs.pdf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatz Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 No high frequency on rf62 iv. I've swapped the tweeters and both work. All four subs work, but the highs coming from one crossover isn't working. I've checked all caps with for meter and seems comparable between the two crossovers. Does any one know of any other possible reason for not outputting high frequency? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikebse2a3 Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 4:07 PM, WMcD said: I too was curious about the zobels used in the woofer and mid section of the AB-3 and AK-4. I understand these schematics to be the latest ones which have been released. Probably everyone knows that these are used to rob power from the driver and thus are used to reduce a hump in the frequency response. The ones shown are probably not too notchy (narrow) in view of the resistor (which also prevents the zobel from turning into a dead short to ground). The value of R also affects the center frequency but maybe not too much here. Attached is a printout of my spreadsheet. The numbers look quite reasonable. WMcD AB-3 and AK-4 Zobel Freqs.pdf Note: Just for clarity the Belle mid zobel is marked as AK-3 not AB-3 in the pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Thanks Mike. And sorry to others for the error. Go Cubs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shibuminet Posted December 8, 2016 Share Posted December 8, 2016 I must have overlooked the RF3 Series II crossover schematics somewhere in this post? If they here can someone point me to the right page and if not is anyone willing to share them! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newbie Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 Hi...as my name says I'm new, not only here but also in the Klipsch-universe. Couple of days ago I bought a pair of Heresy I and I guess that the pre owner made a mistake with the crossover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newbie Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 As far as I understood what I did read about the Heresy I, the K-55-V should not be used with the 33 uF parallel to the woofer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff. Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 Hello Newbie! Welcome to an ear opening experience. Heresy 1's were my first foray into the world of Klipsch. I work in bars as a service rep, and every time I heard music I knew in a new light I would check the source. Classic rock playing through a pair of Heresy's hooked me. That was ten years ago... I don't see the journey ending in this lifetime. It took me too long to accept crossovers need new capacitors after 20 years and the type of crossover has a far greater impact on the sound than I would have previously thought. Many upgrades are available. I JUST replaced the crossovers in my Cornwall ii's over the holidays and the result had to be heard to be appreciated. And I THOUGHT they sounded good prior to the upgrade! Imaging, high frequency definition without the hiss, low frequency tightness, it all gelled after the change. Take a look at Critesspeakers.com for starters and plan to spend the smartest money you can on your speakers. New capacitors are essential, wherever you get them. Cheers! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trem Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 Is there a link to Bigger/Better schem for the Chorus cross-over.? The only one i found in this post was very small. My computer (and i am NOT a computer person) does not enlarge it enough to see it well. I am not sure how different the Chorus II would be. Are the cap values pretty much the same.? Thank You Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CANT Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 On 1/1/2017 at 5:36 AM, Newbie said: As far as I understood what I did read about the Heresy I, the K-55-V should not be used with the 33 uF parallel to the woofer? You are talking about the difference between the E and E2... The E2 came about as Klipsch was phasing in the K52/K53 to replace the K55 in the Heresy before the HII model change occurred. The E just had a 2.5mH inductor on the woofer while the E2 went with a 4.0mH inductor followed by a 33uF capacitor. If I remember correctly this change was made to decrease the amount of over lap between the squawker and woofer within the midrange due to the slight higher/different output of the K52/K53. The previous owner of your speaker might have seen the capacitor change and not understood its design, while opting to add it or he/she may have just thought the cap might help/fix a perceived issue by way of some prior accumulated/unrelated knowledge? Either way it appears you have a E network as well as all the components that should go with it so that capacitor should not be there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailormanbigd Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 New Klipsch owner and new to forum. I recently purchased a used 5.1 promedia thx setup for cheap money. Hooked it up and was totally blown away with the clean crisp exciting sound output. I looked some more for Klipsch and purchased a pair of KSF8.5 two way towers for my mains for music and HT. I am dissapointed that the magic is not there with the KSF8.5's as it is with the tiny 5.1's? I think that maybe the crossovers have let the magic out of these? No treble hardly, is, symbols, snares, etc. Just lifeless. So I came to the forum through the need to rejuvenate my love for Klipsch. I did not find a schematic for the KSF8.5 on the list here? Is it possible to get the schematic and helpful suggestions on how to upgrade? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Sailor man, I would recommend that you repost your question as a new thread in the technical and modifications area of the forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailormanbigd Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Did that minimum. Only 7 views and zero replies. Already ordered some caps for tweeter filter. If no joy then it's probably tweeters gone bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Type C Heresy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedmich Posted September 24, 2017 Share Posted September 24, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efzauner Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 On 11/14/2013 at 11:00 AM, CANT said: KLF KLF10.pdf KLF20.pdf has anyone stated the obvious that the KLF 20 schematic is wrong? Or is this.. unnecessarily stating the obvious... The left side of the 1.25 cap on terminal 5 of autoformer should be connected to the + input. The mid horn is in phase with the woofer. (the KLF30 schematic has it correct) The tweeter is connected out of phase. Seems some models have the tweeter in phase. (chorus and CW2 is in phase.. Chorus2 is out of phase) What gives? And.. what would the additional parallel inductor provide on the KLF30 Mid? I presume a steeper slope. Since the 30s seem to be a big improvement over the 20s, would adding a similar inductor to the 20s be worth it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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