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Took apart KLF-30 to restore adhesive bond on cabinet


superedge88

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I know that this is a common issue with many of the speakers made in the same era as the KLF-30, but I thought it would be fun to post a couple of pics of my venture into taking the the two woofers, mid and tweet out of one of my KLF-30's. I had been playing around with some bass mechanic songs to put my new subwoofer through the motions and was trying to track down an annoying rattle/buzz I kept hearing, searched all over my house and found that the right seam of the motor board had almost completely detached from the rest of the cabinet. A detailed inspection of the rest of the seams on both of my KLF-30's and I found no other issues except for this one seem. So I had one more tube of PL Premium Construction Adhesive from building my sub which fit the bill perfectly for reattaching this troublesome seam.

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I removed the woofers, mid and tweet, labeled all my wires to make sure I didn't have an issue remembering which wires went to what. Put my flashlight inside to light up the inside of the speaker cabinet in case anyone wanted a better look at the inside of the cabinet.

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And a closer up picture of the crossover for anyone that might want a closer look.

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I just gouped on the PL all over the busted seam, this adhesive is pretty amazing, much better in my opinion than liquid nails, fills gaps up to 3/8 of an inch. Not a whole lot to it. Will report back tomorrow to let you know if it bonded well, will test it out with some bass mechanic.

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Hey,
Any chance you could give me the exact inner cabinet dimemsions h x w x d?

Also length and width of those two ports. Thanks.

I have some of that Premium bond and 4 unused K31 woofers....wonder what I should do...

jc
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thanks for the pics superedge...looks like your having some fun there..

Ive regluded the 30's the 20's a few timese and the KG 5.5's. The dual 10" & 12" drivers put out so much bass the factory glue dosent do the job..Major design defect !

Ive used the gorilla glue its great..solid weld..dosetn leave a trace of itself when it dries...although its runny

the liquid nails works great also..Klipsch recommends it.

Ive always allowed two days for drying..Ive never had a problem of re break....let us know how the poly works

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The polyurethane PL premium is a fantastic adhesive that also expands to fill voids, I like it a lot better than the regular PL adhesive. I believe the 'bond' issue was with a certain coating on the board that was supplied to Klipsch from the vendor. It just wasn't compatable with the adhesive system used.

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That's exactly the same thing that happened to my Tangent 10's except that the whole side fell off.

-Josh

Just repaired KG-4.5's where the backs were completely loose. That PL Polyurethane is great stuff. You could glue two car bumpers together and . . . .

Greg

Home made bus?

I'll check it out.

The side panels on the Tangent 10 are what appears to be a poplar with a walnut veneer on the outside.

It's the chipboard to poplar that doesn't stick.

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Hey,
Any chance you could give me the exact inner cabinet dimemsions h x w x d?

Also length and width of those two ports. Thanks.

I have some of that Premium bond and 4 unused K31 woofers....wonder what I should do...

jc

Sorry man, The speakers are already put back together. I would have been happy to get you those dimensions had I known before I put the speaker back together. Can't wait to get home from work to test out the fix!

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  • 5 months later...

I just re-glued my 20's with the PL premium. I let that stuff cure for about 60 hours before I re-installed the drivers. Aside from the odor this stuff is great. Both of my backs were loose and one of my fronts so I just did all the seams. Soon I will be taking my components out again so I can sand and refinish the cabinets since they are made of wood and not mdf...KUDOS! I used gasketing tape purchased from parts-express since gaskets aren't available. That stuff it great but I wish it was 1/16" instead of 1/8". Now I can listen to music and not some awful harmonic buzzing. I just set up my system yesterday, now I need much adjustment so I can finally hear these how they should be heard...Somebody call the roofers cuz i'm about to blow the roof off!

p.s. By the way it looks just go and get the exterior dimensions and subtract 1 1/2 inches to h,w,d and that should give you interior dimensions

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Hey,
Any chance you could give me the exact inner cabinet dimemsions h x w x d?

Also length and width of those two ports. Thanks.

I have some of that Premium bond and 4 unused K31 woofers....wonder what I should do...

jc

Four of them :)

I have an idea :)

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I just re-glued my 20's with the PL premium. I let that stuff cure for about 60 hours before I re-installed the drivers. Aside from the odor this stuff is great. Both of my backs were loose and one of my fronts so I just did all the seams. Soon I will be taking my components out again so I can sand and refinish the cabinets since they are made of wood and not mdf...KUDOS! I used gasketing tape purchased from parts-express since gaskets aren't available. That stuff it great but I wish it was 1/16" instead of 1/8". Now I can listen to music and not some awful harmonic buzzing. I just set up my system yesterday, now I need much adjustment so I can finally hear these how they should be heard...Somebody call the roofers cuz i'm about to blow the roof off!

p.s. By the way it looks just go and get the exterior dimensions and subtract 1 1/2 inches to h,w,d and that should give you interior dimensions

I wasn't aware that they made KLF-20's in anything but MDF?

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