Jump to content

Banana plug termination and signal degradation?


Recommended Posts

I'm considering using banana terminals to my KLF-20's. We move around the furniture a couple times a year and this may have less wear on the cables. Monster makes a some plugs that would fit the bill but I need to know if they are going to cause any appreciable loss of signal. The price is right at $16.00/pair but is this too cheap to be of any real quality? Using these plugs would also make it easier to get rid of the bridging straps on the speaks and use speaker cable instead; I read on the BB somewhere that the straps were just coated brass. I suppose my favorite and ultimate type of plug would be ones with the adjustable/expandable tips. Any input?

------------------

Tom

KLF-20 Mahogany

Carver Receiver MXR-150

Yamaha PF-800 Turntable/ Sure V15 Type V Cartridge

Carver TL-3100 CD

Yamaha K-1020 Cassette

dbx 1231 EQ

dbx 3bx Series Two

H.H. Scott 830z Analyzer

Monster Interlink 300 mk II

Original Monster Cable

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you Bi-wiring? If your not you still would have the bridge straps. Banana plugs plug into the top of the post and I can assure you that unless you are using REALLY small gauge wire there will be no signal loss.

------------------

Onkyo TX8511

ADCOM GCD-700

KLIPSCH CF3,s

KLIPSCH CF4's

KSW-300

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not mbi-wiring (yet?) but maybe in a few years. I just remember seeing on here that "decent" speaker wire gives a better signal than the straps. I'm using Original Monster Cable so I guess the signal loss won't be a problem. Any idea what guage that stuff is (12ga?)or who makes expandable tipped banana clips? I found some in a magazine but they're about $20 ea. and then there's the sleeves for the cable strands and the special crimping pliers. That all came to about $135.00(more than I wanted to spend).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would like to hear from someone that could hear a difference when they replaced the clips with expensive "hi-end" cables. You might be able to catch it on an oscilloscope in an anechoic chamber but the human ear isn't quit that sensitive. I still haven't got a clear picture on the expandable banana plugs. Are you wanting to split the cable into 2 pairs of B-Plugs so as to do away with the clips? And yep that's coated brass your lookin at.

------------------

Onkyo TX8511

ADCOM GCD-700

KLIPSCH CF3,s

KLIPSCH CF4's

KSW-300

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK You want to "hardwire" your B-Plugs so they are one continues cable as if they were custom made. But you don't want to spend the money for the kit. I would probably spend the money. This is going to be a life long hobby and it seems as though having the tools to make your own cables is pretty handy. My bro is an audiophile like myself so I could talk him into going in on it. Do you have anyone that would split the cost 50/50?

------------------

Onkyo TX8511

ADCOM GCD-700

KLIPSCH CF3,s

KLIPSCH CF4's

KSW-300

Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by DPonder:

I would like to hear from someone that could hear a difference when they replaced the clips with expensive "hi-end" cables. You might be able to catch it on an oscilloscope in an anechoic chamber but the human ear isn't quit that sensitive. I still haven't got a clear picture on the expandable banana plugs. Are you wanting to split the cable into 2 pairs of B-Plugs so as to do away with the clips? And yep that's coated brass your lookin at.


I can hear the difference in the high end B-plugs.The locking ones sound better on the back of the speaker than the non-locking ones.On the other hand NO B-plug sounds better than ANY B-plug I have ever heard.And you have it backwards.You can't catch it on an oscilloscope but you can hear it.Your hearing is a lot more sensitive than any test equipment.If you insist on using a connector for the sake of convenience then I recommend the Neutrik Speakon NL4.They sound better than any B-plug and handle garden hose sized wire if need be.A set of two male and two female connectors will set you back about $13 at a pro music shop.These allow bi-wiring or bi-amping with one connector.The NL8 series supports up to eight connections.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have bi-wired and ran without b-plugs. To me and others I have never heard a difference. If you say you can hear one I'm not gonna tell you that you can't, more power to you. But if our hearing is superior to test equipment...then why use test equipment? This is a largely debatable subject and I can think of a lot of other places I would try to make significant audible changes then in what type of b-plugs I'm using. And could you tell me what you mean by " sound better on the back of the speaker "?

------------------

Onkyo TX8511

ADCOM GCD-700

KLIPSCH CF3,s

KLIPSCH CF4's

KSW-300

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's why I'm thinking for the future with upgrades for this set-up. Someday I hope to find a Carver C-4000 that's "really" rack mountable and no just with the grab handles. Then a like Carver 1.5t amp, those were internally wired with Monster Cable. When money is available again (and the girlfriend stops hounding me about vacationing in Toronto) I'll start looking at e-bay very closely for some clean units. Yes, I know the 1.5t is obscenely more power than I need (350wpc) and maybe I'll have the buck for some used Mac stuff but for now I'm limited in the funds dept. Does ALK have upgraded crossovers for the Legend series? I understand that compared to the Heritage line some purists may consider this to be a waist of time and money. I've been known to try to soupe-up the un-soupable (Did the same thing with my non-turbo Eagle Talon with no forced injection and no Nitrous, not the fastest; just surprising).

------------------

Tom

KLF-20 Mahogany

Carver Receiver MXR-150

Yamaha PF-800 Turntable/ Sure V15 Type V Cartridge

Carver TL-3100 CD

Yamaha K-1020 Cassette

dbx 1231 EQ

dbx 3bx Series Two

H.H. Scott 830z Analyzer

Monster Interlink 300 mk II

Original Monster Cable

Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by DPonder:

I have bi-wired and ran without b-plugs. To me and others I have never heard a difference. If you say you can hear one I'm not gonna tell you that you can't, more power to you. But if our hearing is superior to test equipment...then why use test equipment? This is a largely debatable subject and I can think of a lot of other places I would try to make significant audible changes then in what type of b-plugs I'm using. And could you tell me what you mean by " sound better on the back of the speaker "?


Locking B-plugs sound better on the back of the speaker than non-locking B-plugs.The reason is simple.They don't vibrate.I use no plugs on the back of my speakers.I use no binding posts either.The speaker wire is soldered to the networks.The push on connectors on the ends of the network wires have been cut off and the wire soldered on to the drivers.None of the Klipsch speakers made before 1982 used push on connectors on the drivers or B-plugs on the networks.The wire was soldered directly to the drivers and spade lugs with screws were used for connections that had to be removable.I have over $7M in test equipment in my lab at work and still don't have the equipment that can measure everything that I can hear.I am always at a loss with that to say to audio athiests.I used to think that since I could hear the differences in amplifiers,cd players,wire and cables,that everbody else could too.About 15 years ago I found out I was wrong.If you can't hear the difference in B-plugs,fine.Even if you can't hear, the connectors I recommended cost less, are more durable, are safer (dead front design), cannot be hooked up backwards, and work better with larger wires.They were designed for audio.B-plugs were not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by tblasing:

That's why I'm thinking for the future with upgrades for this set-up. Someday I hope to find a Carver C-4000 that's "really" rack mountable and no just with the grab handles. Then a like Carver 1.5t amp, those were internally wired with Monster Cable. Tom, I have had the C-4000, C1, C2, M400T, M1.0T, M1.5T and others.The C1 and M1.0T are the best sounding.They also have the most potential for upgrading parts.I currently own modified McIntosh but it is kind of pricey even 20 years old like my stuff is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see now. I can hear the difference in CD players from one to another. I'm not really concerned with improving my system with good interconnects and cables as I am in insuring there will be no signal loss, and that is my reason. Now quality is quality and a better B-plug is a better B-plug, I would just suggest using a hi-quality plugs. So you say at a pro music shop, as in musical instruments or audio?

------------------

Onkyo TX8511

ADCOM GCD-700

KLIPSCH CF3,s

KLIPSCH CF4's

KSW-300

Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by DPonder:

I see now. I can hear the difference in CD players from one to another. I'm not really concerned with improving my system with good interconnects and cables as I am in insuring there will be no signal loss, and that is my reason. Now quality is quality and a better B-plug is a better B-plug, I would just suggest using a hi-quality plugs. So you say at a pro music shop, as in musical instruments or audio?


Pro music shop as in the kind that sell PA gear and a few guitars as opposed to a music store that sells pianos, organs, and rent band instruments.You are more likely to find Speakon connecors at the former rather than the latter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On older models with the two screw terminal strip you can remove same and mount the NL4M over the old holes.The NL4M come in both a round and a square flange mount.The round one will cover up a larger existing hole.On newer speakers the NL4M can be mounted above or below the input cup and wired internally to the existing connections.This requires a hole about 7/8" to be cut.If you don't want to cut then use a short pig-tail to the connector outside the box.A 5/8" nut driver will torque the red and black posts down tight on the bare wire ends of the pig-tail.16ga wire is adequate for the 6" or so that you need here.This is mainly for people that need to be able to easily disconnect their speakers.If this does not describe you then the best connector is still no connector.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...