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TNRabbit

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Got one speaker done tonight; what a FREAKIN' ordeal! I learned a couple of things, not the least of which is to drill out the mounting holes & install the blind nuts FIRST~ the side nuts required some modification in the form of bending as they sit right at the edge of the 45 degree angle that goes from back to side/back on the AL-IIIs...

Started off looking like this:

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And the end result looks like this (pardon the fingerprints):

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But FIRST, you have to start HERE--original hole:

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Drilled new holes to match the 6/32 stainless steel tapered-head bolts (1 inch)

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Sized & cut some thin foam seal (originally made for lining a truck tool box) to prevent air leaks/farting around the panel:

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Began de-soldering the wiring to the crossover & speakers:

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02797.jpg?t=1279685970
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Went up to 12 gauge monoprice oxygen-free copper wiring from the original, wimpy (& NOT copper!) wiring:

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02805.jpg?t=1279686012

Heat sinks in place (made a HUGE difference in heat transferred to the wire insulation & binding post plastic parts:

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02806.jpg?t=1279686012

^^^ I ended up soldering banana plugs to use with the woofer inside the cabinet as it was too difficult to try to solder in there. The monoprice bananas worked out GREAT & fit right into the woofer connectors (3/4 " on center).

I had to drill out the holes in the binding posts to get the 12 gauge wire through them:

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02812.jpg?t=1279686397
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UGLY solder joints w/heat sinks in place:

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02814.jpg?t=1279686483
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A shot of the port tube:

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TNRabbit/Audio/DSC02826.jpg?t=1279686658

It works! Couldn't crank it tonight as it was too late, but will do so tomorrow afternoon~

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I REALLY beat them up with some Donald Fagen today (The Nightfly & Two Against Nature); no fuses or circuit breakers blown (astoundingly!) & they sound terrific~

Now to just get the other speaker done & get proficient with the Room EQ Wizard...

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At first, no sound. A few minutes of troubleshooting (of course, AFTER everything was put back together--GRRRR!).....

I had a couple of cables going into the wrong slot~ fixed~

Sounding good!

I used the DeOxit spray. It's impossible to wipe out the switches & pots, but I sprayed them, worked the pot/switch for a few minutes, then followed up with the GOLD. I used Q-tips for the connectors, wiped them well, let it sit, then wiped them off & used the GOLD as a follow up/protectant on everything.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Some sneak peeks; the first two are Dianna Krall (1st video
died--camera battery!), and third is the climax of the 1812 Overture-- I
kept them all short for size. Sorry they're so dark; don't know WTH is
up with that:
The
1812 Overture overmodulated BAD; guess I need to turn it down a little
next time...
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  • 2 months later...

Cool..........now there will be another guy on this forum who has one of these. You will enjoy its "close to analog" sound, and simple interface. I love mine to death and would buy another tomorrow. Not so much as a hiccup since I bought it.

That's great to hear. I know many don't like Behringer, but I have not had many problems with the DCX2496. I have been looking for whatever improvement I can get in sound quality from a higher quality unit like the Ashly.

Perhpas today I'll get a chance to set it up.

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Good Lord........it is night and Day vs. Behringer. Do the comparison (I did)..........and report back. You are in for a treat. My only recommendation is that you only use amps with level controls. Trying to incoprorate amps that have no ability to adjust its levels could spell trouble, because you will have to use the gains up/down on the processor which will mess with your resolution and gain structure. Trust me on that one. Use the amps you have for now but be on the lookout for ones that have level controls if your sdon't. Try to run the processor as a zero gain unit (straight from Ashly tech support).

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I am sure it is night and day different. That is why I plunked down over $1k for the unit. I have already been down the amp road. All my amps are pro Hafler and Crown amps with sensitivity adjustment. I have already learned the hard lessons on 'gain' setting before. This can be a particular problem with efficient horns.

I will finally be able to properly incorporate my RSW-15 into the system properly.

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  • 5 weeks later...

I know this thread is old but I'm in e process of bi-amping my AL-IIIs and wanted to know if you ever completed the physical wave guide form mod? I have a Rane XO on it's way, a C-1 preamp, a TFM-35x and M1.0t. As a first step I planned to bypass the passive XO for high and low and leave the notch filter connected (I'm not quite ready to tackle the active notch - I will have enough trouble adjusting the gains with these amps). After reading many threads on this topic it appears that I can get rid of all the passive components entirely! This is, of course, I can successfully mod the area around the ribbon to eliminate the need for any band stop. The problem is that I haven't seen this in action. Any insight would be appreciated! BTW - impressive documentation of your mods! It's inspired me to keep going.

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I know this thread is old but I'm in e process of bi-amping my AL-IIIs and wanted to know if you ever completed the physical wave guide form mod? I have a Rane XO on it's way, a C-1 preamp, a TFM-35x and M1.0t. As a first step I planned to bypass the passive XO for high and low and leave the notch filter connected (I'm not quite ready to tackle the active notch - I will have enough trouble adjusting the gains with these amps). After reading many threads on this topic it appears that I can get rid of all the passive components entirely! This is, of course, I can successfully mod the area around the ribbon to eliminate the need for any band stop. The problem is that I haven't seen this in action. Any insight would be appreciated! BTW - impressive documentation of your mods! It's inspired me to keep going.

No, I've not done that yet. Realize the room will probably add more peaks & dips than anything in the electronic chain....

I still plan to do the mod, just have had other priorities of late~

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All this talk of Ashly stuff made me take the plunge. I just picked up an Ashly 4.8SP....can't wait to get it hooked up.

I've noticed that most of these new processors don't offer 6db slope crossover functions like the Behringer does. While not always the case, I often find the 6db slope setting is the best sounding.

Greg

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