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Full Set of Schematic Diagrams for ProMedia 2.1 System !


DEC

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Many thanks to Zortrium for the link to these schematic diagrams (which, by the way, are not offered by Klipsch). The link is: http://www.thompdale.com/bash_amplifier/2-1/2-1_bash_amp.htm

And here are the various schematics (courtesy of Dale Thompson; copyright protected):

Block diagram of Klipsch Promedia 2.1 System:

2-1_block2-713x326.gif

Interconnect diagram of Klipsch Promedia 2.1:

2-1_interconnect2-717x399.gif

Schematic diagram of Control Pod:

2-1_contol-708x500.gif

2.1 DIN Plug Wiring Diagram:

21_din_plug-410x178.gif

Schematic diagram of I/O Board:

2-1_ioboard_706x505.gif

Schematic diagram of HF (Satellite) Amplifier Board:

2-1_hf_amp_712x523.gif

Schematic diagram of LF (Subwoofer) Amplifier Board:

2-1_lf_amp_708x409.gif

Schematic diagram of Power Supply:

2-1_supply-714x785.gif

Don

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  • 9 months later...
  • 3 years later...

Mnay many Thanks for sharing this, I really appreciate it. But the Promedia speakers that i own, comes with a SMPS and not a transformer. Could you please share the Schematic diagram of the New SMPS version of the Promedia 2.1 Speaker System. Your help will be much appreciated.

Regards

Ambrish

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  • 4 years later...

Is it possible to connect the promedia 2.1 subwoofer to a home theatre? If I use a DIY repair cable and connect the orange wire (SUB) and shield wire (GND) to an RCA then into the SUB input on my receiver, will this work?

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  • 10 months later...

I have a Promedia 2.1 I bought in 2000 and the subwoofer recently went out. The well-known cause is due to the current flowing through two resistors on the subwoofer board which overheat and affect the solder joints (C16-17).


Interestingly the schematic above shows 1000 ohm 2W resistors in these spots with a sidenote that 1W versions are used in early models. Mine came with 800 ohm 1W resistors (gray-blk-brn-gold) which measured about 910 ohms which is 15% out of spec.  I'm going to replace them with 800 ohm 2W versions. If I sense any problems I'll upgrade them to 1K.  

Attached is a photo of my scorched board in the process of also rebuilding with new capacitors, showing the original resistors. A fun project.  

KK.jpg

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  • 11 months later...

Hi! I'm pretty much a newbie when it comes to troubleshooting electronics, so I'm hoping y'all can help me! Recently, the LED on my control pod went out, and I thought the speakers did as well. Then I discovered that they're just very very quiet - with the volume know maxed, I can just barely hear the music.

 

I measured voltage at the LED and have 1.5V - so there is some there, just not enough to turn it on. I measured voltage at the control pod connector - I have -14.5V between pins 1&2, 25.5V between 2&9, and 10.8V between 8&9. By my (novice) reading of the schematic, pins 2&9 should have 28V and pins 8&9 should have 14V. Just for kicks, I ohm'd out the cable - no problems there. Back at P104, pins 4&6 I still have 25.5V instead of 28V. I also checked the three large resistors - they all seem fine (1k and 24k). My board isn't nearly as scorched as Blu Azure's, and I can't see any bad solder joints.

 

What do you think? Could the loss of 2.5V be causing my problems, or am I barking up the wrong tree? What should I check next?

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  • 5 months later...
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  • 7 months later...
On 2/6/2022 at 12:36 AM, Gilbert90604 said:

Do you have the diagram for the 9 pin vga plug Klipsch promedia 2.1 you have this one din 6 pin it would very helpful to me  

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q32/DECJ1/21_din_plug-410x178.gif917k7c9OxPL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

The pinout is on the inside of  the box on the board at the soldering joints. Id include a pic but i think i have to register for that. Just unscrew it and each soldering joint at each in connector is labeled but just in case I'll read off labels and colors for you....

 

RED = ncc

Shielded in BLACK - GND 

(NOTE: im not sure but by process of elimination this SHOULD be your BLUE wire in the VGA cord supplied with the unit.) 

GREEN = "SGND" (and judging from the circuit path im guessing "signal gnd" is coupled with the main PS/overall modulated ground. That is to say its the negative side of your signal. But i cant be sure til i do some testing. Im converting my unit to a standalone speaker tower with a BT reciever so ill let ya know when i get done)

WHITE = "Sub" (+sub signal)

YELLOW = "SAT R" (positive+ right high/mid satellite speakers)

BLACK = SAT L" (left mid/hi positve signal) 

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  • 2 months later...
On 9/9/2022 at 4:13 AM, BrassBoy86 said:

The pinout is on the inside of  the box on the board at the soldering joints. Id include a pic but i think i have to register for that. Just unscrew it and each soldering joint at each in connector is labeled but just in case I'll read off labels and colors for you....

 

RED = ncc

Shielded in BLACK - GND 

(NOTE: im not sure but by process of elimination this SHOULD be your BLUE wire in the VGA cord supplied with the unit.) 

GREEN = "SGND" (and judging from the circuit path im guessing "signal gnd" is coupled with the main PS/overall modulated ground. That is to say its the negative side of your signal. But i cant be sure til i do some testing. Im converting my unit to a standalone speaker tower with a BT reciever so ill let ya know when i get done)

WHITE = "Sub" (+sub signal)

YELLOW = "SAT R" (positive+ right high/mid satellite speakers)

BLACK = SAT L" (left mid/hi positve signal) 

I'm new to this could you tell me what each abbreviation means. I'm trying to use another receiver to control this one. 

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