DIY sub for Klipschorn based HT (and music) - Tuba HT - build done (except for finish)!

[psg]

filler will show up a different color most of the time when stained.

Yeah, that's what I'm afraid of. The pegs are beginning to look interesting. They would let me keep going with the project. However, I've got 11 weeks (3-hours every Wednesday evening) to complete the project so there's no rush. Of course, if I glue one piece a week, I'll need other projects to do in parallel.

It's going to be 5x5' sheets after all. Two 5x5' sheets cost the same as one 4x8'! I'll figure out how many I need over the weekend. Might as well buy more anyway for my other projects (my equipment rack being one of them).

[CECAA850]

My fear of nails is that I would prefer all outer surfaces to be free of nails and screws (except for the access door) so I can stain the whole cube to match my speakers and let the wood grain show. Someone even suggested cherry pegs! The different color would show off the horn folds from the side of the box.

There's a bit that I'm going to check into. Supposedly you can cut plugs with it that you can use to plug the screw holes. At least they should somewhat match your finish as they can be made from the same material as your cabs.

[psg]

There's an interesting idea! Thanks!

I'll go introduce myself on the billfitzmaurice.info forum...

[CECAA850]

I'm going to look at the bit this weekend, I'll let you know how it works. I need to get a bit for my router and a countersink bit for my drill while I'm at it.

[psg]

I have read through the plans this morning.

I like my idea of
pegs for assembly (although I have never used them, being new to this).
After drawing out the butt joints on a side panel, I could overlay both
side panels and, using a very small-diameter drill bit, drill through
the first panel and slightly into the second every 6 inches or so along
the outline track. Then as I dry-assemble the parts, I can drill
through the pilot holes of the first side panel for the peg holes.
Towards the end, when I get to the point of assembling the second side
panel, I can lay it down on the sub, draw the joint outlines from
inside the cab as indicated in the plans, and make sure all my pilot
holes (that were not drilled all the way through) are in the correct
locations. If they are, I can drill them out, place the side back on
top of the sub, drill through them again into the adjoining panels for
the peg holes, and use them all to line up the assembly when gluing.
Anything down side?

Also, will the PL overspill remove cleanly enough to allow staining the finished box?

When
the plans call for guideboards to line up the panels for assembly, are
these expendable wood boards that can get glue on them? Won't overspill
from the joint stick on them and make them unremovable? I am missing
something. Or are they used just for the dry assembly to drill pilot
holes for screws (or in my case, pegs)?

[jason str]

If the dowel rod's are a must for you here are some options.

Use nails to construct, after everything is dry countersink the nails and use inlays to cover the holes.

Use screws to construct, after everything is dry remove your screws, drill your holes where the screws were and install your dowel rods.

Stain may stick to the poly but it aint gonna look pretty.

[psg]

If the dowel rod's are a must for you here are some options.

Use nails to construct, after everything is dry countersink the nails and use inlays to cover the holes.

Use screws to construct, after everything is dry remove your screws, drill your holes where the screws were and install your dowel rods.

That's actually a quite good idea!

Stain may stick to the poly but it aint gonna look pretty.

So... there's no point in taking all this care? I am certain to have PL overflow, since that's the goal. It will scape off, but you're saying it will leave a film that will show through the stain. If that's the case, maybe I shouldn't have stain as my goal...

I guess I should make a test PL join, scape off dried overflow and try to stain it just to see how that goes.

So... how does the construction go anyway?

- dry-assemble all the parts of one joint to make sure they fit, using clamps, squares and a guide board.

- drill pilot hole and possibility start the screws.

- disassemble and put PL on the joints.

- assemble again with the same gear (won't the PL overflow stick to the guideboard?)

- screw it all screws to make sure everything is tight.

- let dry 24 hours for that one joint? Or can you start on another?

[jason str]

You most likely will get the P.L. where you don't want it, just sand it off. You will need to sand anyways if you want the project to look nice. I had a good 25 + hours of sanding in my build.

Build your project complete, then worry about the dowel rods or inlays, this can all be done after completed.

[psg]

You most likely will get the P.L. where you don't want it, just sand it off. You will need to sand anyways if you want the project to look nice. I had a good 25 + hours of sanding in my build.

Build your project complete, then worry about the dowel rods or inlays, this can all be done after completed.

Thanks Jason, I guess it makes sense.

So are my assumption about the panel assembly correct?

Also, at the wood shop where I will be building this, there is a large belt sander. I could sand all my showing sides before assembly a lot faster than once assembled (apart for the bits with PL which I can do with a hand-held sander at the end). Good idea?

[jason str]

I built mine my way but i have been a woodworker since i could lift a hammer. My grandfather was a great teacher and encouraged me to build at a very young age, no power tools until maybe 10 or so but you get the idea.

My advice is to follow the plans so you don't get lost or confused.

Get as far as you can each day being carefull not to skip a step or get ahead of yourself.

Personally i just ripped everything to size and used end scraps for the supports but this may not be the best advise for your first build.

[psg]

It's going to be 5x5' sheets after all. Two 5x5' sheets cost the same as one 4x8'! I'll figure out how many I need over the weekend. Might as well buy more anyway for my other projects (my equipment rack being one of them).

5x5' are well suited to a 30" Tuba HT after all! A cutlist program gave me diagrams for all 12 panels and all braces within 4 5x5 sheets. That's under $100 of Baltic Birch (well, over $100 after taxes). Not bad!

And, if you feel like answering my other questions, please do! (i.e. panel assembly and belt sanding prior to assembly)

[jason str]

No need to sand your stock twice, wait until the build is complete then do your sanding.

As for the assembly i answered your question already. []

[psg]

Didn't think I'd have to sand the middle parts again...

As for the rest, I'll read between the lines then... too subtle for me! []

[jason str]

Didn't think I'd have to sand the middle parts again...

As for the rest, I'll read between the lines then... too subtle for me!

Why would you sand the middle parts in the first place ? I don't understand.

Just don't want to confuse you with my way of thinking, thats why i recommended following the plans is all.

Use nails, it just makes things much easier, pre-drilling every screw with 2 different size bits just seems like way too much work for holding your parts together until the glue dries.

[psg]

Didn't think I'd have to sand the middle parts again...

As for the rest, I'll read between the lines then... too subtle for me!

Why would you sand the middle parts in the first place ? I don't understand.

Just don't want to confuse you with my way of thinking, thats why i recommended following the plans is all.

Use nails, it just makes things much easier, pre-drilling every screw with 2 different size bits just seems like way too much work for holding your parts together until the glue dries.

If I sand before, it's using a huge surface belt sander. If I sand afterwords, it's with a hand-held sander. Shouldn't I sand as much as I can using the bug guns?

As for following the plans... I'm trying but they are not clear on the panel assembly method. That guideboard is going to get PL on it.

As for nails... yes, that would be quicker. But I couldn't use fancy pegs afterwards... Still undecided! (I didn't see a brad nail gun at the wood shop, but surely they must have one; I have one at home!)

[jason str]

Unless it's rough sawn stock i would not bother with sanding a thing until its done, belt sanders are not for finish work anyways.

There is no reason you could not use nails & dowel rods, just countersink the nails as needed then drill the holes for the dowel rod into the same hole to get your desired look.

[psg]

Thanks Jason! I'll keep you all posted!

[psg]

Yeah, I rushed the finish on these like crazy. That side isn't visible so I didn't really care. The filler contracted more than I thought it would on the side there. I gave some spots a second coat but didnt bother with the other side. I just wanted my subs inside The visible sides look great though =] The flash also brings out all the imperfections like 10x what you see in person.

Are those brad nails showing on the outer edges?

(okay for the hammer and nails!)

Looking at your pictures, it looks as if you didn't use any fasteners on the second side at all. Is that right?

Also, how was getting the driver installed with only one access hole? Not too bad?

How mant panels do you guys installin one session? Only one until it sets? or more as long as the clamps of the previous work don't get in the way?

[nyt]

There is only an access panel on one side. It's not necessary to have one on each. I didn't have any problems installing the driver with access from only one side. I used hex bolts.

As for the number of panels per sessions, The only time I had to stop due to glue drying was on the lip for the access panel to make sure the glue set flat and smooth.

Basically, I put the glue down, set the piece, clamped it in place, then used a ton of nails to hold it in place. Once the nails were in, the clamps came off.

It's tricky clamping pieces in place with the glue making them slide around and creating a mess, but that's basically the fastest way to go. It was tougher since I used 30" panels. You'll need a lot of clamps =]

Yeah, I rushed the finish on these like crazy. That side isn't visible so I didn't really care. The filler contracted more than I thought it would on the side there. I gave some spots a second coat but didnt bother with the other side. I just wanted my subs inside The visible sides look great though =] The flash also brings out all the imperfections like 10x what you see in person.

Are those brad nails showing on the outer edges?

(okay for the hammer and nails!)

Looking at your pictures, it looks as if you didn't use any fasteners on the second side at all. Is that right?

Also, how was getting the driver installed with only one access hole? Not too bad?

How mant panels do you guys installin one session? Only one until it sets? or more as long as the clamps of the previous work don't get in the way?

[psg]

The plans say you can have one access hole,or one on each side to make woofer installation easier. I'll stick with one then.

Did you use any nails on the second side? It looks very smooth on the pictures.