Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community
Sign in to follow this  
psg

DIY sub for Klipschorn based HT (and music) - Tuba HT - build done (except for finish)!

Recommended Posts

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I'm still curious as to how you get the woofer out and in if there's a problem.

Are panels j and h parallel? Is panel g perfectly perpendicular to f?

Finally got it done a month ago. Still need to flush route the edges and stain, add oak trim, etc. since it is a coffee table. Protected by a thick blanket for now. Sounds great on music and movies. Flat from 18 Hz. to 60 Hz., with a slight dip at 70 and rise above 80. Using a 60 Hz setting below corner horns (see Avatar). For movies, the output gets the LFE channel with a 10 db boost. Otherwise, for music, it's 0 db boost and just extends down to 20 Hz. Never knew there was that much low bass in CD's before and thought it wasn't needed with corner horns. I was wrong.

I can get to the woofer from the horn mouth, no problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good stuff Claude! Post pics! Des photos ! Des Photos !

The Cinema F-20 is also a popular build these days, but getting 18 Hz out of that small format is very impressive indeed.

I have yet to stain my sub... Still plain plywood! And I need to get a good mic to make sure I am EQing it correctly, finish my ceiling and make some bass traps...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good stuff Claude! Post pics! Des photos ! Des Photos !

The Cinema F-20 is also a popular build these days, but getting 18 Hz out of that small format is very impressive indeed.

I have yet to stain my sub... Still plain plywood! And I need to get a good mic to make sure I am EQing it correctly, finish my ceiling and make some bass traps...

Funny. Maybe les Fancophones behave the same way, as I have yet to stain and trim out mine (add banana plugs on bottom, riser, oak molding, etc.) I didn't take pictures of the build because it looks just like the drawing from the top, and much easier than your THT build for sure........I used pocket holes and screw, so no clamps were required.........everything pre drilled before assembly.......which was slow and careful over only 2 days.

Photos to follow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good stuff Claude! Post pics! Des photos ! Des Photos !

The Cinema F-20 is also a popular build these days, but getting 18 Hz out of that small format is very impressive indeed.

I have yet to stain my sub... Still plain plywood! And I need to get a good mic to make sure I am EQing it correctly, finish my ceiling and make some bass traps...

OK, so here it is in raw state, no trim, not stain, no risers, no banana jacks (will be on bottom. No need for door since the woofer is fully accessible from the mouth.

post-22904-1381966300249_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice! So you are using it as a table? You could put mini legs on it. [6]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice! So you are using it as a table? You could put mini legs on it. Devil

Yes, I have cut 3" strips of the same oak plywood as a riser/toe plate. This will allow feet to go under the "table." the mouth sits in front of me, so it flaps my calf muscles with some movies' LFE effects. This close proximity allows me to enjoy it in a basement attached condo environment without having my neighbors pounding on the walls. In fact the only time my neighbors ever pounded on the walls was before I had this sub hooked up and the corner horns put out too much at 90 Hz. This thing crosses at 60 Hz. and I was able to reduce the gain on the corner horn amps, while boosting this one to get reasonbly flat (inside a 6 db envelope) solid down to 20 Hz. It still puts out in the 16-20 Hz range, but is down about 10 db at 16 hz.

I believe that having it in close proximity reduces the required amplifier output that I would otherwise have to use if it was in a corner 10 feet further away, thus I can have quite a bit of sub bass "feel" without annoying my neighbors.

Also, on music, it does an amazing job of seamlessly blending with the corner horns and giving me bass detail and feel from CD's that I never knew I was missing, even from corner horns, which are very room dependent as you know, and don't go into TRUE sub bass region.

With the advent of 5 string electric basses that get to 31 Hz. on a B string or for synthesizer bass, or even sub harmonic generators of modern music (CD's have been flat to 4 Hz. since 1983, so some artists have gone beyond the "rumble filter" limitations of turntables/vinyl playback) I'm enjoying my CD's more than ever on all types of music.

I'm totally diggin' it.

So now I'm trying to improve my super tweeters mounting and orientation so I can put back my ceiling panels where they belong, LOL (see Avatar).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow! It's like limbo rock for the bass.................how low can you go??? Still rare, though, so I think 31 Hz. is plenty good for music for 2 channel.......although 18hz. for a sub can't hurt, eh?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In my case I'm using the tapped horn cabinet with the LAB driver because it's for Home theater and will only come on for movies not music. So yes, the one I posted is the one I am building. I have the Oak pieces rough cut alrady.

When I finally get 4 more LAB 12 drivers, I will have already built a pair the Litz version of the horns, which use pocket screw/glue construction instead of clamps and glue. In the meantime, I will get to practice on the simple tapped horn coffee table cabinet before I move on to the complex construction of the Litz LAB horns

My plan is to replace the MWMs clone bottoms in my stacks ONLY if they LABS sound better. If not, I will EQ their bottom end and use them as theater subs #2 and #3. Either way, I will not lack any low end.

See my post on "MWM fanatics" in the Pro section. This is with FH1 cabs in the corners in place of the Khorn bottoms (more dfined bass to 50 Hz. AND the TH coffee table sub with the 12" LAB driver (18-feet long and folded).

post-22904-1381966626409_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally found it, I was looking for this thread...

. Did you read the whole thing??? More power to you if you did, LOL.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, i followed most of it during the build. i skimmed it again and finally printed my plans.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, i followed most of it during the build. i skimmed it again and finally printed my plans.

Which plans?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your Eminence LAB 12 is the recommended 12-inch driver.

All Tuba HT are all the same 36x36 inch square with variable width. So you could have 36x36x15 with 12-inch driver. The wider cab the better. At 18-inches wide it does better with a 15-inch than a 12-inch, but 12-inch drivers are recommended for cabs up to 18-inch wide.

Got some more done this evening: panel 5 and braces, panel 6 and braces.

I'll post pics tomorrow.It's slow-going but looks great!

Can you use an 18" driver ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your Eminence LAB 12 is the recommended 12-inch driver.

All Tuba HT are all the same 36x36 inch square with variable width. So you could have 36x36x15 with 12-inch driver. The wider cab the better. At 18-inches wide it does better with a 15-inch than a 12-inch, but 12-inch drivers are recommended for cabs up to 18-inch wide.

Got some more done this evening: panel 5 and braces, panel 6 and braces.

I'll post pics tomorrow.It's slow-going but looks great!

Can you use an 18" driver ?

No. All the horn loaded subs in this thread are designed around specific drivers. The only substitutions would be similar sized drivers that are within 10% of the original drivers TS parameters.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How about 24"? What size driver?

24" what?

Again, this thread covered 3 horn loaded subs (if I recall correctly). Each enclosure has only one or two drivers that work properly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...