agent1675 Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 Hey everyone - first post in these forums, and naturally I need some help. I walked into my office earlier today to hook my MacBook Pro up to my Klipsch ProMedia 4.1 speakers that I've had for quite some time, but I'm getting no response from the control pod (no green/red light while plugged in). Anyone here ever experienced this same issue before? To my knowledge we've had no power surges or brown outs, as I was just using the speakers with zero issues earlier this week, and nothing smells burned, so I don't think it's any kind of a surge. Here's what I've tried thus far: - Taken apart control pod, visually inspected for damage (none found) - Reseated the cable connecting the control pod to the amp/subwoofer - Opened the back of the subwoofer to check the fuse (it's still good) - While open, plugged the subwoofer in and felt a decent amount of heat coming from the sub (which tells me that all the electrical components of the amp are probably still good and functional) Am I missing something, or is the consensus that I just have a bad/dead control pod? If so, what (if anything) can/should I be doing to fix it? Any and all help is much appreciated! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister_Clean Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 Try tracing the connections from the tips of the pins on the connector that plugs into the sub from the tips to the inside of the controller and see if you can find a pin connection for each wire inside the controller, if no then you have a bad connector in which case i can help you out. if the connections are all good then you have a more serious problem which you will need a professional to diagnose which will likely cost around $150 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisK41 Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 I had the exact same problem this morning. I've had these speakers for eight years and it seems like a shame to give up on them because of something as small as a control pod.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister_Clean Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 Did you try what I wrote above? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisK41 Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 I think so. If I understood you right you wanted to make sure there were the same number of metal pins in the din connector as there were wires going to the control pod to make sure none of the metal pins were broken/missing. If I understood your post correctly then yes. If not, sorry I don't know to much about electronics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister_Clean Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 No, Often tiems when these connectors break you don't see the break, it will be inside the plug. what you need to do is trace each wire from the tipes of the pins to the inside of the controller with a voltage meter to make sure that the signal is getting from the inside of the controller to the pins where they need to be. If any of the connections is lost then you need the DIN replaced, I can do the work for you. I do several every week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisK41 Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 Thanks for explaining that to me. I did what you said and all the connections were good. I'm assuming that means I need a new control pod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister_Clean Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 there should be a total of 9 connections as the outer circular portion of the plug is a grounded connection inside the control pod as well, if all 9 connections are good then it might be the control pod and it might also be the circuitry inside the sub. More likely to be the sub. If you would like I do buy controllers from people and would be insterested in yours if you don't figure out what is going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpete cooling Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 There is a 4.7 ohm resistor on the panel that sometimes overheats and burns out. It is in series for a power supply circuit. If it fails, though, there could be another problem causing that failure in the power supply (such as an IC preamplifier on the panel). There is a demand for 4.1 controls on eBay, if you end up parting out your system. I think it can be repaired, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mybadford Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 My 4.1 did the same thing. No red/green light. I took mine apart and didn't visually see anything. I checked the connections and all seemed good. Fuse is good. When I unplug it you can hear something high pitched powering down. It's no very loud. Definetely have to listen for it. When I open the back I can feel a little warmth coming off the (power supply)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agent1675 Posted October 4, 2010 Author Share Posted October 4, 2010 @Mister_Clean Any idea what the voltmeter should be reading for each connection? I want to make sure that a) I'm doing this right, and that I know what the output should be. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister_Clean Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 check out this link here: http://www.thompdale.com/bash_amplifier/bash_amp.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJCRISS Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 I just picked up the same model sub and speakers and i am having this same problem. I opened up the sub and found a resistor that i THINK has been burned near what appears to be the power supply. I really have no business opening up any hardware to try to fix it but i would like to try. It says R26 on the circuit board underneath the resistor i think it burned. The paint or coating (whatever it is) on the outside of this resistor was starting to peel, and started to fall away with a light touch. Could this be causing the control mod to not receive any power? The sub does get hot when i plug it in so it would appear that it is receiving power. But the light on the control mod does not light up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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