KLIPSCHORN'S

[SonicSeeker]

I am thinking of finally purchasing a pair of klipschorn's Do Klipschorns need to be tight to the corner walls (I have chair molding and base molding at the floor)?

I would be placing these in a room that is 15' by 30' with an adjacent space of equal size beside it separated by a 15' long by 35" high island is this enough space for these?

[CapZark]

To do it right, they need to be tight. Klipsch recommends the base and chair mouldings be cut so the speaks are snug. Now most folks don't go to that extreme and as long as you place them in the corners up against the mouldings, you'll be fine. They should sound great in the room you describe.

[Coytee]

Chair rail might be an issue but I think the Khorns have a cutout on the bottom of their side panels to accomodate floor trim. I've got 1x6 boards along the floor and they didn't pose any problem.

You looking to buy new?

You can also look into enclosing the backs of them and that might garner you some ability to pull them away from the wall just a little without losing much of the bass.

If you are looking at new, you could also look into the Klipschorn Jubilee which don't need to be tight in the corner and were designed to become the Klipschorn II. A search on Jubilee will tell you most of what you might ever want to know.

(might save a few dollars as well)

[SonicSeeker]

If I touched the molding I think my wife would cut my molding.........

[SonicSeeker]

How do you enclose the back? Dose klipsch make them?

[Coytee]

We'd certainly hate to hear about your molding suffering from rug burns. [:|]

Unless you get the 60'th anninversary Khorns, they do not put the backs on any of them (to my knowledge). Most that have done that have glued/screwed the panels themselves. Some have done a very nice job. I guess it depends in part on tools and skills you might have handy or perhaps paying someone else to do it.

If you are contemplating used Khorns that might be something to do.

Another thing that I forgot.... you could investigate false corners. Essentially take some 2x4's and build a corner of the room about four feet high as I recall. I don't remember the length. This corner becomes self standing or shoved to the corner of your room...then the Khorns set inside this corner.

Truth be told... I don't know if you'd suffer any LF losses from having the Khorns pulled out 2-3 inches from the wall. Maybe the seal on the back would be enough to account for that? I've never had that problem so it's beyond me.

[djk]

The corner must be a tight fit to avoid loss in the 250hz~500hz region, the deep bass does not suffer if only a couple of inches from the wall.

Just notch the tailboard on the Klipschorn to fit, and use a gasket. Alternately, add backs to extend out about a foot or so (this will be enough to insure proper mid-bass as long as you are close to the corner otherwise).

" I don't remember the length. "

PWK suggested 4 feet from the apex of the corner. I generally make them 52" high, I think it looks best with them the same height as the Klipschorn.

[LarryC]

Just notch the tailboard on the Klipschorn to fit, and use a gasket.

You'd have to notch some side grill frames, too, wouldn't you? I know, I've done it on one side (window sill not far enough from the corner). Myself, I'd rather do that then add 4' backs extending into the listening room.

[djk]

Yeah, you would need to notch the grills for the chair raill too.

I would cut the molding. With the speakers in place you couldn't tell anyway. Save the pieces and put them back when you sell the place and move.

Re: the 4' wall. Only needed if you have no corner, or a radiator in the corner. Partial backs will solve the problems associated with being a couple of inches out of the corner.

Re: irrational women. Sever the relationship before you have children and it gets messy, it will never get better.

I once designed a system that required an entire wall between the livingroom and a bedroom be removed. The wife came home one day and a hole six foot tall by about sixteen foot wide was cut out of the livingroom wall. After the wife was sent packing off to her mother for a week, the entire audio/video system was then flush mounted in the opening. The big, ugly, freestanding speakers, shelving units, and projection TV all came off the livingroom floor and were flush mounted in the wall. All wires were now got to though the bedroom (now sporting folding doors in the expanded closet). I need to get a picture of this, it looks incredible! Much better sound and viewing angle on the video as well.

[sheltie dave]

I would get some larger preslit pipe insulation and use them as the larger tailboard gaskets. They work quite well...

[Tom Mobley]

I have a pair of '60 Khorns, the side grills were relived for a chair railing. Looks like thy pulled the cloth loose, carved the wood frome, put the cloth back. The tailboard is not relieved, never thought about that. Maybe they did away with the railing somewhere behind the speakers.

[KdAgain]

The corner must be a tight fit to avoid loss in the 250hz~500hz region, the deep bass does not suffer if only a couple of inches from the wall..........

I've read this before and have difficulty understanding why the upper bass suffers more than the deep bass.

Rod

[djk]

"I've read this before and have difficulty understanding why the upper
bass suffers more than the deep bass."

Peak amplitude in a sinewave is at the 90° point (1/4W).

This would be 7' for 40hz, or about 8" for 400hz. Also, the short wavelength at 400hz can reflect back into the corner (through the 2"~3" gap) and be out-of-phase back at the tailboard and cause cancellation.

[KdAgain]

"I've read this before and have difficulty understanding why the upper
bass suffers more than the deep bass."

Peak amplitude in a sinewave is at the 90° point (1/4W).

This would be 7' for 40hz, or about 8" for 400hz. Also, the short wavelength at 400hz can reflect back into the corner (through the 2"~3" gap) and be out-of-phase back at the tailboard and cause cancellation.

Thanks for the explanation, but the only part I really understand is the 400 hz cancellation. Why doesn't the 7' wavelength (1/4 wave?) need coupling to the walls? It seems this is because the bin could be quite a ways out from the walls and still be a small portion of the wavelength? But I don'tknow where to go from there with the explanation.

This is all quite interesting as we keep hearing on the forum about sealing the Khorn snugly to the corner for the best low end. Or am I totally misinterpreting what you are saying? On second read you did say that the upper base suffers more than the lower. But the lower still suffers - the question is how much?

And while we are at it what would happen if the Khorn was basically free standing, ie several feet from each wall, as many now do with their more conventional speakers?

Rod

[djk]

The longer wavelengths have no problem with a gap of a couple of inches or so, only the shorter wavelengths have problems.

This seems so self-evident I don't know how else to explain it to you.