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Q-man's University Classic


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Justin,

I've been sending everyone 3 pages.

One page is on letter size paper, 8-1/2" x 11". This page has everything you need on it.

Then you should have 2 pages of 11" x 17" paper. I enlarged half of the page of the 8-1/2" x 11" to fill one page of the 11" x 17" paper. So, it takes two pages of the 11x17 to equal all the information on the single 8-1/2x11 paper.

If you have one single 8-1/2x11, you have all you need. I just blew it up to make it easier for you to read. Let me know if something isn't right with what you received.

Q.

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Q-Man

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Justin,

If you want to start watching ebay for the stock University parts, I see two networks for the classic up for bid. Type in univeraity crossover, or university crossovers and you will find in two seperate auctions for the University N-3 network. This is the 3-way network that is used in the Classic.

Q.

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Q-Man

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Also, type in university classic. Someone is selling a C15W woofer, midrange and tweeter.

Beleave it or not , these speakers and drivers come to ebay quite often.

My wife has grown accustom to the UPS truck pulling up. I hope this doesn't turn out to be like the milkman story.

Q.

------------------

Q-Man

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quote:

Originally posted by Q-Man:

Justin,

I've been sending everyone 3 pages.

One page is on letter size paper, 8-1/2" x 11". This page has everything you need on it.

Then you should have 2 pages of 11" x 17" paper. I enlarged half of the page of the 8-1/2" x 11" to fill one page of the 11" x 17" paper. So, it takes two pages of the 11x17 to equal all the information on the single 8-1/2x11 paper.

If you have one single 8-1/2x11, you have all you need. I just blew it up to make it easier for you to read. Let me know if something isn't right with what you received.

Q.


i have two 11x17 pages, is that enough? i am going to redraw them today and make them all pretty haha. do i need the 8.5x11 page if i have the two 11x7's?

great news then about eBay. And since i am paying nothing to BUILD the cabinets, I can invest that money into the speakers. Smile.gif

------------------

-justin

SoundWise Support

A technical help site created by me and my fellow Klipschers

I am an amateur, if it is professional;

ProMedia help you want email Amy or call her @ 1-888-554-5665 or for an RA# 800-554-7724 ext 5

Klipsch Home Audio help you want, email support@klipsch.com or call @ 1-800-KLIPSCH

RA# Fax Number=317-860-9140 / Parts Department Fax Number=317-860-9150s>

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great. i sent the plans to the shop, i have a weird feeling they lost the plans... but i hope i am wrong Smile.gif

here is my situation. either i was going to make a stereo Heresy speaker system powered by my Marantz PM500, or i was going to make my own speakers. So, I have this feeling that these speakers will blow away the Heresy's. The only heritage I have heard is Heresy and Cornwall, both were EXTREMELY impressive, only wish I had a way to make them my home theater speakers, but the RF-7's should suffice.

So, in you humble opinions, how would you compare Heresy's to these University folded horn speakers? I am kinda worried that I will blow my ears out haha. Gonna use them ONLY for music, this is probably as good as it gets, for me at least, right?

Thanks guys. Pray with me that they did not lose the plans in the shuffle, i did draw up a sketch of them, but it was not perfect you know?

Thursday I am going over to the shop to talk to them about it. THey are building only the cabinets. I am going to put in the speaker and crossover and whatnot. In the plans they say to leave just one panel able to be removed. First off, will this allow me to easily install the tweeter, woofer, and crossover? Second, how did you make it removeable? They can do about anything, but did you just make it unscrewable? Finally, i think I asked this before, and you guys probably allready answered it, but i need a woofer, a tweeter, and a crossover right? Where do I put the crossover? I just don't know how to connect everything. I need also to put i guess binding posts on the back of the cabinet, could I easily do this with the cabinet built and I take off the removable side and install them? Or would it be much more easy to put them in before the cabinet is finished.

I wish that i could be there during the whole developement, but the shop is nearly 2 hours from my house.

Once again, really sorry for all the perstering questions and nagging you guys for answers, I just don't want to screw anything up Smile.gif

thanks

------------------

-justin

SoundWise Support

A technical help site created by me and my fellow Klipschers

I am an amateur, if it is professional;

ProMedia help you want email Amy or call her @ 1-888-554-5665 or for an RA# 800-554-7724 ext 5

Klipsch Home Audio help you want, email support@klipsch.com or call @ 1-800-KLIPSCH

RA# Fax Number=317-860-9140 / Parts Department Fax Number=317-860-9150s>

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found the 8.5x11 sheet, so I am A-OK Smile.gif!

------------------

-justin

SoundWise Support

A technical help site created by me and my fellow Klipschers

I am an amateur, if it is professional;

ProMedia help you want email Amy or call her @ 1-888-554-5665 or for an RA# 800-554-7724 ext 5

Klipsch Home Audio help you want, email support@klipsch.com or call @ 1-800-KLIPSCH

RA# Fax Number=317-860-9140 / Parts Department Fax Number=317-860-9150s>

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I use air tight foam tape, 1/4" thick by 1/2" wide. It's a high density weather strip that can be had at Home Depot. Attach the tape to the door or the frame around the compression chamber. Then screw the compression chamber door to the frame. Part #9 is the door and it says to make it removable. The plans don't show parts for this frame or tell you how to do it. You can see the frame in the picture posted showing the compleated cabinet with the door off, woofer visable. I used 1-1/2" by 1-1/2" wood strips anound the compression chamber opening to secure the door to.

You can figure this out once the cabinet is assembled.

As I said before this folded horn cabinet is better sounding then the LaScala. I really posted this for the LaScala users. They can simply load the LaScala drivers and network in this cabinet and have something that rivals the K-Horn. It may sound even better with the K-33E woofer if you change the woofer slot from 6"x13" to 3" x 13", as discribed in another post.But even with the 6"x13" slot and K-33E it sounds much cleaner and more detailed then the LaScala.

Q.

------------------

Q-Man

This message has been edited by Q-Man on 05-08-2002 at 08:44 PM

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http://www-user.uni-bremen.de/~carnivor/horn/hornfolds.html

http://members.tripod.com/~ThunderBobWorld/horn.htm

I am realizing I have barely begun to scratch the surface of this obsession.

-tracked and trixed

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Cornwalls

currently upgrading

to all tube components

This message has been edited by Clipped and Shorn on 05-17-2002 at 11:00 PM

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  • 4 weeks later...

quote:

Originally posted by Q-Man:

Did anyone start building yet?

Q.


should start this week!

------------------

-justin

SoundWise Support

A technical help site created by me and my fellow Klipschers

I am an amateur, if it is professional;

ProMedia help you want email Amy or call her @ 1-888-554-5665 or for an RA# 800-554-7724 ext 5

Klipsch Home Audio help you want, email support@klipsch.com or call @ 1-800-KLIPSCH

RA# Fax Number=317-860-9140 / Parts Department Fax Number=317-860-9150s>

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  • 2 months later...

quote:

Originally posted by Sean_RESG:

Justin take pictures of your progress. I'd be very interested to see how this comes together.


not gonna happen. i had bid for the parts on ebay and was outbidded, more than once. then my builder built the boxes out of MDF after i said, 1. don't build them, 2. make sure you don't order me mdf cause i want birch 11 ply. 3. i still had to pay the guy $$$ for the supplies on the stuff that i did not want, he is super stubborn.

i got new plans off the net that are even more clear and emailed them to my uncle, he wanted to build like 10 and sell them, but that was the only way he thought it would be worth while, so there goes that source of help/supplies. my dad has no time, as hard as he tries he is still to busy with work Frown.gif

i graduate this year, i really don't want to bring too much to my dorm because of theft, at least not till the second semester. new heritage came out, if i do anything, i will probably just buy a set of new heresy's or used la scala's.

there are more factors, but it all adds up to a depressing end. no university horns for me. i have the plans on my desk right now, i think about it every day. it was so close, yet then so far away...

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-justin

SoundWise

promediatech@Klipsch.com /1-888-554-5665 - RA# 800-554-7724 ext 5s>

Email Me

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  • 4 years later...

Hi

This seemed like the best thread to post this. I built a university classic 20 years ago in high school wood shop. Sadly I never loaded it or built a match. Now that I have a 5.1 surround system I would like to use it as a sub woofer. I have a Bogen mosfet 100 watt amp and now need a 15" driver. On to my question... What driver wold make my classic a tight sub woofer. I suppose I could make a spacer ring if the driver extends past the mount (since it is rear loaded). I would love to go cheap but I realize I might have to spend something to get something. Parts Express seems to have quite a collection here:

http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/indexes/sb_guide.cfm

I have a C15W but last time I looked at it the surround was rotten. I can't see why I can't use a modern driver since I'm just looking for a "eviction box" (my pet name for any sub woofer)

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


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Best bet? Sell it and build / buy a subwoofer, a device intended to cover the lowest octaves.... in my opinion from at least 16 hz - 32 hz. The classic horn is going to be way down at these frequencies.

Good point but I already own a Klipsch KSW-10. I would like to do this just to do it. Your point about the 16 hz - 32 hz range is a good one. My dad has a pair but I haven't heard them in a long time. The opening note from the organ pedal tone from Also Sprach Zarathustra was always intense and was the way my dad would demo them. That was from 30 watt Macintosh amps and people that where hard up on how many "watts" didn't get it[:)]

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Okay Ive done some more research. Looking at the testing

done on the C15W in this thread:

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/673112.aspx

and this jpg:

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/storage/3/673714/C15W%20woofer.jpg

and figuring the SPL @105dB 1W/1m using the calculator here:

http://www.bcae1.com/speaker.htm

My figuring the best match for the C15W would be these two

speakers:

EV EVX-155 15" EXTENDED LF SPEAKER $386

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=294-560

and

USHER 15PA 15" PA DRIVER $230

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=296-632

However in the interest of my wallet and my intentions to

have a serious subwoofer I think the speakers listed below would be a good

match for my needs.

DAYTON DVC385-88

15" DVC SERIES SUBWOOFER $127

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-190

DAYTON TIT400C-4

15" TITANIC MKIII SUBWOOFER 4 OHM $199

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-420

DAYTON

RSS390HF-4 15" HIGH FIDELITY SUBWOOFER $160

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-468

None of them seem as efficient as the C15W and I will have

to make a spacer for some of them.

Any help and or comments would be appreciated.

Thanks

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