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Old Tubes and Tube Tester


CIGARBUM

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Well I may have fallen into something the other day, in my wanderings I ran accross a guy selling this stuff. As I have been getting more and more tube stuff, I though it would be kind of neet to check some of the tubes, don't have much else to do. I'll put some pictures in here, I have looked at all the tubes and I don't think there is anything I can use. If anyone sees anything they may want let me know, are the tubes good or bad, I don't have a clue, because the tube tester the came with the mess don't work. So, what I do know, if the tubes are good they may be worth something, if they are bad they aren't worth anything.

Next, I think it would be fun to get a tube tester that works, I've about had it with EBay, does anyone have a good workable tester for sale or know where I can purchase one. I don't want to spend a ton of money, lets say top price would be maybe $200-$250.

Again, if you see something you wanat let me know.

Cigarbum

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The tube tester in your picture is an emissions type unit. This type of tester will tell you if the tube is "working," but not what it will do under actual operating conditions (with such a tester, tubes can sometimes test "good" and not work, and at other times tubes that test "bad" may work fine). The tube tester's circuitry is usually fairly simple, so the unit you have may be easy to repair by a knowledgeable technician. To get a better idea of how a tube will work you would need to have a mutual conductance (aka transconductance) type tester which can be quite costly. These are very rarely seen in the price range you specified. Such units also need to be electrically restored and, most importantly, calibrated to be of any real use. If improperly calibrated, a tube which seems to test within specification may actually be terrible. Frankly, though, the only way to really know if a tube is good is to put it into an amp, etc, and see what it does under its actual operating conditions. If it performs well, and its measured voltages are within spec for the device in question, you know that it's good. As far as the tubes in the caddy, it's hard to see the type numbers. If you can post a list it will be easy to tell you if there are any worthwhile audio types there (the large tube in the tester does look like a KT88 though).

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One of the basic problems I have in the area I live (mountains of North GA, there is nothing around here, I would have to drive to Atlanta to find something, hence why I trying to do it myself. The only problem with that is I don't know didddly squat about what I'm doing.

I thought I saw some testers, mutual conductance for the price range, restored and calibrated. Got any idea where I could purchase something that works, just to see if a tube is good or bad?

Cigarbum

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If you can buy a restored/calibrated mutual conductance tester within your budget from a reliable seller, that's great. Usually, the better units, like Hickoks, go for $500 give or take. But, if you just want to know if a tube is good or bad, look around for something like a Sencore Mighty Mite tester. They can often be found in the $75 price range and are very reliable testers within the context of what they can do. What makes you think that the tester that you have doesn't work? Do you have the manual and tube chart for it? If not, those can usually be found online for free from various sites.

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I believe what you mentions is what I want to mess with, I have seen several of the Mighty Mite testers for not a lot of money. You mentions reiable sell, are there any of those around anymore, I have just had some real bad luck lately with purchasing stuff, it seem they just want to screw ya.

Again, I just want to test the tubes in my equipment (MC275, MC225, VRD's, Scott, Stromberg Carlson) so I guess it will test the tubes I have. The tester is so old I can't find the settings and you follow the instructions and ,It don't work>

cigarbum.

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Unfortunately, the only "reasonable" place to purchase tube testers seems to be Ebay these days. There are some trusted sellers on there, and some even offer a money back guarantee if the tester isn't satisfactory. Sometimes a person just has to check on there every day for a few weeks until something like that comes up. But, I must ask why you want to test the tubes in your equipment if it is working properly. Generally, you will know if something isn't right. It may be more cost effective to just have a set of spare tubes available for substitution if a question arises. Back when I was in the TV/radio/audio equipment repair business we never bothered to test tubes- based on the "symptoms" the equipment showed, we just put in a new replacement. If that fixed the problem we were done. If not, we looked further into the circuitry itself. In more recent years, doing amplifier design and fabrication, my philosophy was the same. Tubes sometimes test within spec but are noisy, or just sound awful, so trying a replacement is the best answer. In any event, check out this article which provides a really nice overview of tube testers in general:

http://tone-lizard.com/Tube_Testers.html

Regarding your Triplett 2413, if the tubes that you plug in light up, the problem with why it isn't working is probably very minor. The real concern with any tester is if the transformer or meter is blown (a very rare event in my experience). If I can be of any further help, drop me an e-mail as there is no point in tying up the forum. I'll put the word out among my fellow electronics "nuts" to see if anyone has a tester which they are interested in selling inexpensively.

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My wife was just on Ebay and saw this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/CENTURY-TUBE-TESTER-MODEL-FC-1-/140493265322?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item20b60d19aa

This was a popular unit in its day and would serve you well as a basic emissions type tester. It says that it's covered by the buyer protection program, so if it doesn't work as you expect you can get your purchase price refunded.

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I have two Mercury 1000 Mutual conductance tube testers that will be up for sale shortly. It's based on the Hickok circuit. I have manuals and data sheets in electronic form. 100 bucks each, plus shipping. Also have a a few Mercury 1100 emissions testers. Manual and data sheets in electronic form. Price is 50 bucks.

email me if your interested in them.

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I believe what you mentions is what I want to mess with, I have seen several of the Mighty Mite testers for not a lot of money. You mentions reiable sell, are there any of those around anymore, I have just had some real bad luck lately with purchasing stuff, it seem they just want to screw ya.

Again, I just want to test the tubes in my equipment (MC275, MC225, VRD's, Scott, Stromberg Carlson) so I guess it will test the tubes I have. The tester is so old I can't find the settings and you follow the instructions and ,It don't work>

cigarbum.

OK, VRD's easy, KT88 output tubes, 12AX7 Driver, 12AU7 phase splitter, Tube Rectified 5AR4 . The amps can run EL34, 6L6GC, 5881, 350B, KT66, KT88, 6550, KT90 and more (some tube choices require a 5U4GB rectifier tube). these can be tested by the mercury 1000.

MC275, there are different runs of these. I had one with KT-88's, 12AT7's and 12AX7's. O know some had 12AZ7's. these are all testable by the 1000.

Wich model scot, and carlson do you have? ill check those to make sure.

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Stromberg Carlson 433, Scott 222/299, I think you have the others covered, but I still get a list together. Wouldn't happen to have any pictures, just so I can see what it looks like. I will sent you my other email address, it's with Windows 7, couldn't merge old address with windows.

Bob

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here's an inet picture. my testers are in NJ, I live in NY. about 30 miles away. going there this week.

very simple to use. two meter scales. it has an internal tube voltage regulator . very easy calibration check proceedures. like i said, it's identical to the hickoks which use the same exact lever selector system and even uses the same tube data. if the label said hickock, it would fetch 400 plus bucks. got 3 of them, selling 2. I needed 3 to do a massive tube test and matching gig for almost 200 tubes that were used in almost 20 power amps and preamps. we pulled all the tubes, tested, matched and graded the tubes. then we reinstalled the tubes based on tight match groupings. it made a big time difference in sonics. haveing 3 testers was great. one tester would have a tube warming up, the second tester would be already warmed up and given readings, the thrid tester was in tube cool off. did a tube about every 30 seconds. tube had a minut of hot time before being tested.

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I have a very pretty Hickock 6000a "Dynamic Mutual Conductance" tester I'm willing pass along. It is calibrated and running nicely and fun to use. I just don't have the need. I'm uncertain as to its value but I'll sell it to you under market value. I hope somebody can chime in as to whether this one would do the trick.

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