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Crites CS-1.5 project


ZombieWoof
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#1 tite bondworks just as well==> the III is just water resitant & costs more

#2 that depends on the bracing used U want to go thru the bracing & not thru the plywood, I use a sheetrock style screw I'll look @ the ones I used & get back @ ya Plus I owe you some pix anyway

#3 I got mine @ Lowes 1/2" & 1/3" in 8 foot sections (it's pine ) select the ones with less Knots & that are straight not warped OR curved in any way

if U have to go thru the whole pile then do so it's worth it .

they ran 98 cents & 1.15 for each size

they are on the else with the 2x4's usaully .. NOT the moulding section you will pay way too much for that stuff

are you gonna do a Vertical OR a horizonal speaker ? the horizi works GREAT as a center the ones in the pix are the Horzi . i can send the link for the grill for the woofs if U like that style they were $10 each 2 piece steel they have a mountng ring & the grill snaps into place

thanks Mike, i will be doing the vertical CS-1.....

sure, please send the links for grills....i would love to see them

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doesn't the CS designs look awfully close to the Econowave Speaker over at AudioKarma ?

Wouldn't that be a good thing, and in the spirit of the Econowave? (Zilch would be proud.) The concept of a two-way design with even power response has been around for quite a while.

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yea, but the thing is the e-waves cost about half to build.........

The originals are very reasonable, and I've heard a great 'bang for the buck'. There are also versions that are more expensive than the 1.5. I guess I'm lost as to what your point is. Do you think the 1.5s are not a good value? Have you compared them to the original econowaves, and what was your opinion?

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my point is:

parts for the CS-1 is about $550 (woofers, drivers, horns, crossovers).

parts for the e-waves is about half of that (from what i've read)

is the CS-1 a good value? i guess so, if it offers better performance than an HIII as reported.

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So you're wondering how the cs1(.5) compares to the standard e-wave, not he deluxe or the high-eff, or the 414 + BMS, etc. (more e-waves than you can shake a stick at). No way of knowing without listening to both. Judging by your posts, I'd say you're leaning toward the e-waves. Nothing wrong with that, many have built them and rave about them. Zilch spent a lot of time developing those x-over networks, tailoring freq and impedances, setting the forward lobe, matching dispersion at the x-over freq. etc.

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nope, i am going with the CS-1....parts are already coming.

it just strike me when i look at the CS-1 and the e-wave and saw how much similar they are.

there's no way of telling which one is better with out A/B them. heck, even if i A/B them, i might not be able to tell a difference.

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The Econowave and deluxe Ewavs are nice and so is this design for Crites. I just commented some where that the I thought the Ewavelooked very similar also.

But after gathering parts they are not alot cheaper so I think they are both very close in price. The Ewave thread is here:

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=215536

All the different types are here that Zilch designed. He used to make PCB for crossovers for everyone but he no longer does that anymore. RIP Zilch.

Did you use a grille from parts express or did that come with the crites kit.

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The Econowave and deluxe Ewavs are nice and so is this design for Crites. I just commented some where that the I thought the Ewavelooked very similar also.

But after gathering parts they are not alot cheaper so I think they are both very close in price. The Ewave thread is here:

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=215536

All the different types are here that Zilch designed. He used to make PCB for crossovers for everyone but he no longer does that anymore. RIP Zilch.

Did you use a grille from parts express or did that come with the crites kit.

thanks for the link. wasn't aware that they're are so many variations of the e-waves.

i must have been looking at the standard ewave, in terms of pricing, where it seems much cheaper.

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Hey Fast- I'm real interested in how the CS-1.5 sounds. I'm going to build a pair of the shorties to use as the rear surrounds. I have 3 corns across the front.

Bob says they should blend quite well and I take him at his word. Would like to hear your opinion too.

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they blend in ? 0' Yes , I'd say they melt right in also . if your system can do hieghts OR wides they shine there also . they are Very rich in detail

they keep up with the CornScala's quite well , adding detail & make an excellent center speaker if one lays the horn sideways all five of mine are the Horzi CS-1.5

i've got 5 CS-1.5's running center, high & wides 4 Cornscala's as FR/FL & S/R S/L .

the soundstage, when i have active all 9 speakers is jaw dropping seems like I'm sitting on a stool next to the lead singer of the band

OR sitting in front of the conductor stand in an orchastra

i would do the CS-1.5 Really !It's not that much bigger anyway , the added bass response over the CS-1's will really add to their use as a surround . I have run the CS-1's for a year now & that simple design of adding the ports & a larger cab has really hit a Sweet spot !

don't get me wrong the CS-1 Are Killer but to add the enhanced bass response to that fact is a no brainer

I did brace quite stoutly ,using L-braces made up of 1x2 & 1x3 's that were pre glued/screwed as a single pieace in 8 foot sections ,then cut the L-bace to size , this allowed for ease of assy with the gluing & screws to be set from the inside

made easy getting thing square also

tops,bottoms & sides went together 1st ,then the motor board (over sized by a 1/4" all sides over hang) placed over the the assy & trimed out with with a cut=off router bit

braced the motor board leaving a secton open for the woof & that was covered with a 1x2/ round mounding

1x3 & my L-braces were used to make a inset seat for the backs

the L-brace makes for a very stout cab with no flexing @ all

the cab is quite ridget

Mike

post-41965-13819637777776_thumb.jpg

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I use 1/4" counter sink bolts with lock washer & lock nut inside @ the woofs , the horns were button heads 1/4" bolts with lock washers & lock nuts

painted black the button heads , the woof counter sinks were to be covered by the 2 piece black grills So no need to paint.

i don't like using screws to hold drivers as it's just to easy to over tighten & strip out the wood in the holes

cutting out the motor board holes are easy , U make a templant outta 3/4 plywood or MDF cut the holes as needed then place the template inside the mounted motorboard (screwed to hold from the inside ) & use the same cutoff router bit used to trim the motor board edges

REALLY oil the router bit bearing on EACH use ! IMPORTANT let the bit cool to room temp each time U use it VERY Important that U do both of these things OR U will burn up the bit !

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